stealth sealed room for own consume

[unnamedmike]

With 220v, you’re splitting the load between two wires (110v, 180* out of phase, meaning the peak of each current’s sine wave occurs at the other’s bottom, which allows the current to continue flowing through the alternate hot wire as it would a neutral in a 110v configuration). You’re still drawing the same amount of power. This is why the wire used to feel hot and now it doesn’t.. you’re running half the load through that same wire(@110v).. and the other half through an additional hot wire (@110v). The small percentage I speak is primarily based on power factor. Look up the specs for a Meanwell HLG-240 driver (most common led driver I know of). Here you will see a 3% difference in power factor. These drivers actually run more efficiently at 110-115v than they do at 220-230v.

POWER FACTOR (Typ.)
PF≧0.98/115VAC, PF≧0.95/230VAC @ full load

Your calcs gonna stills wrong if you continue avoiding add the resistance to your maths.

 

[repuk]

What I've been thinking about is on going fully DC for lights at least, and use Solar Power to bring the bill down.

Sadly I fried my COBs (miswired them to AC instead to the driver) but this gave me the idea... repurpose SILs into DC (not sure if this can be done) then drive them from a solar powered system with no inverters in between.

They're expensive, but where I live there's a lot of irradiation, I live near the second biggest and first deployed thermal solar power plant (heliostats) in the world, PS10 and PS20, so for sure geographycally wise I'm on a good spot for this.

 

[unnamedmike]

What I've been thinking about is on going fully DC for lights at least, and use Solar Power to bring the bill down.

Sadly I fried my COBs (miswired them to AC instead to the driver) but this gave me the idea... repurpose SILs into DC (not sure if this can be done) then drive them from a solar powered system with no inverters in between.
Im sorry bro ... thats suck ... may be ... only the first one is toasted if the cobs are in serial.


They're expensive, but where I live there's a lot of irradiation, I live near the second biggest and first deployed thermal solar power plant (heliostats) in the world, PS10 and PS20, so for sure geographycally wise I'm on a good spot for this.View Image

Great idea. i've been thinking about go solar lately too. Im doing some breeding 101 in a skylight and a little led rig may be a perfect adition. But im thinking in a traditional way (solar cells / windmills, charger, batterys, DC-AC inverter) some day i want to scale this to a room size.

 

[PurplePotion]

Your calcs gonna stills wrong if you continue avoiding add the resistance to your maths.

I agree that resistance is a part of the equation we’re speaking of. Where I believe we do not agree is the real impact, or how great of an impact, it has (certainly nowhere close to 50%, or even 30%). Copper isn’t cheap, nor is the time it takes to rewire a circuit, so there has to be some sort of cost analysis done in that respect also. Here’s a simple explanation I found on the good ole interweb:

For a given wire diameter, 220 or 240V will be have lower losses than 110 or 120V, because the higher voltage circuit will use half the current. However, usually the higher voltage, lower current circuit will normally use thinner wires, in which case the losses will be about the same.

Therefore, the reason for the higher voltage is to save money on copper. At half the current and twice the voltage you only need 1/4 as much copper for a given distance.

Sudhir Sharma, Energy Audit
Answered July 20, 2016 · Author has 2.5k answers and 3m answer views

 

[unnamedmike]

I agree that resistance is a part of the equation we’re speaking of. Where I believe we do not agree is the real impact, or how great of an impact, it has (certainly nowhere close to 50%, or even 30%). Copper isn’t cheap, nor is the time it takes to rewire a circuit, so there has to be some sort of cost analysis done in that respect also. Here’s a simple explanation I found on the good ole interweb:

For a given wire diameter, 220 or 240V will be have lower losses than 110 or 120V, because the higher voltage circuit will use half the current. However, usually the higher voltage, lower current circuit will normally use thinner wires, in which case the losses will be about the same.

Therefore, the reason for the higher voltage is to save money on copper. At half the current and twice the voltage you only need 1/4 as much copper for a given distance.

Sudhir Sharma, Energy Audit
Answered July 20, 2016 · Author has 2.5k answers and 3m answer views

save in copper is not the only reason, 110v is only for low current uses, you can easy toast a breaker or inflame a plug due heat. heat = energy wasted. There is no big devices at 110v for a logical reason ... same with the industry, a 110v motor is bigger than the same at 220v, bigger starting ampere peakes too ... a grow room is basically a lot of motors, and a lamp.
And again, you cant calc my consume unknowing all the factors involved. You dont know my instalation and you dont know how my electric company charge me. I reduced my bill a lot when switch to 220v, believe me or not, i dont care, im far from be able to teach someone in english, as you can see. But you dont know how my electric company charge me and you dont know my instalation. Gonna be funny if some one try run a big op at 110v because you said 20.000w at 110v are 20.000w at 220v ...
cheers bro

 

[PurplePotion]

save in copper is not the only reason, 110v is only for low current uses, you can easy toast a breaker or inflame a plug due heat. heat = energy wasted. There is no big devices at 110v for a logical reason ... same with the industry, a 110v motor is bigger than the same at 220v, bigger starting ampere peakes too ... a grow room is basically a lot of motors, and a lamp.
And again, you cant calc my consume unknowing all the factors involved. You dont know my instalation and you dont know how my electric company charge me. I reduced my bill a lot when switch to 220v, believe me or not, i dont care, im far from be able to teach someone in english, as you can see. But you dont know how my electric company charge me and you dont know my instalation. Gonna be funny if some one try run a big op at 110v because you said 20.000w at 110v are 20.000w at 220v ...
cheers bro

You’re putting words in my mouth now, which isn’t necessary. I have agreed with most of what you’ve said, so I’m not sure why you are getting defensive. As you said, you’d hate to see someone wire a big op with only 110v after reading my posts (which I never recommended and never would)... I’d hate to see someone to spend the money on wiring and new equipment thinking they are going to save 50% on their electricity costs going from 110 to 220. Grow on my friend.

 

[unnamedmike]

You’re putting words in my mouth now, which isn’t necessary. I have agreed with most of what you’ve said, so I’m not sure why you are getting defensive. As you said, you’d hate to see someone wire a big op with only 110v after reading my posts (which I never recommended and never would)... I’d hate to see someone to spend the money on wiring and new equipment thinking they are going to save 50% on their electricity costs going from 110 to 220. Grow on my friend.

Thats your opinion bro, sorry if pissed you when you are not right or invent data and i correct you, you call that "getting defensive".
Grow on my friend ? You are not right, you are stubborn and now that ? have a nice day

 

[repuk]

=unnamedmikeIm sorry bro ... thats suck ... may be ... only the first one is toasted if the cobs are in serial.

Yes, that was my thought, thanks for the support! will test them soon as I will need all my lights, have a HLG-185H-C1050A so theoretically I can re-adjust to three. Sourcing SILs already.

 

[PurplePotion]

Thats your opinion bro, sorry if pissed you when you are not right or invent data and i correct you, you call that "getting defensive".
Grow on my friend ? You are not right, you are stubborn and now that ? have a nice day

 

[unnamedmike]

Yes, that was my thought, thanks for the support! will test them soon as I will need all my lights, have a HLG-185H-C1050A so theoretically I can re-adjust to three. Sourcing SILs already.

you can check your cobs one by one, yours work at 36v or 72v ? you only need a power source of the same voltage than your cob, low amperes. With single low current leds, it's enough the multimeter to get the led bright, cob leds need a low current same voltage, power supply.

 

[unnamedmike]

I did some updates in the room. Added a 3ª fermenter, now the Co2 is between 580 - 1200ppm. Fixed some light leaks too, im growing very light sensitive strains lately.
Im working in the new controller, now is able to control lights and irrigation. I just need some kind of enclosure for the controller before the final installation. Need more work, but is usable.

Next updates to do:
TDS meter in the controller.
Pump and 1/2" pvc pipes, between the RO water and the nutrient tank, plus some sensors, for a easiest refill.
Water flow sensors
automatic nutrient addition

 

[repuk]

Looks killer!!! Looking at those containers make me want to try CO2 but that would mean I'd need either AC or a dehumidifier and automate control of extraction/intake dehue, etc. Now I have something to think about!

Sorry bro you asked me for my nutes pump and I kept forgetting... is a lowly Neptune Hydroponics NH-1000, but enough to save the reservoir bucket height (less than 1m) and provide enough pressure to the drippers.

Specs:
Max depth: 2 m
Power: 22 W
Max Height to save: 1.6 m
Flow: 1000 L/H

 

[unnamedmike]

Looks killer!!! Looking at those containers make me want to try CO2 but that would mean I'd need either AC or a dehumidifier and automate control of extraction/intake dehue, etc. Now I have something to think about!
Sorry bro you asked me for my nutes pump and I kept forgetting... is a lowly Neptune Hydroponics NH-1000, but enough to save the reservoir bucket height (less than 1m) and provide enough pressure to the drippers.
Specs:
Max depth: 2 m
Power: 22 W
Max Height to save: 1.6 m
Flow: 1000 L/H

Thanks ! I did some updates in the irrigation plumbings and now there is a correct water flow.
Its incredible how every bottle raise the co2, but yes, you need to climatized your room.


The new controller is already conected and controlling the room. Im adding the "water control" to the "controller", it's just a prototype but work. Water Conductivity, water TDS, water temperature, water level in tank, max water level switch, min water level switch, a second pump for aireation and a third from the RO water tank to the nutrient tank.

 

[repuk]

wow!!!

 

[unnamedmike]

wow!!!

Thanks bro

 

[unnamedmike]

Finally i put most of the gardening stuff inside the room, the "watering" stuff too. . it's looking chaotic, but is just a prototype, im repeating me again and again to convince myself

 

[repuk]

wow! keep the pics coming! That's a lot of work!

I keep refraining myself to picture the girls in my "flowering" room. Things got outta control and we're in veg regime still...

 

[unnamedmike]

wow! keep the pics coming! That's a lot of work!
I keep refraining myself to picture the girls in my "flowering" room. Things got outta control and we're in veg regime still...

Thanks bro . Hope here politians legalized that soon, to move some plants outdoor like you.

I've been working slowly, it's warm here and im running out of day time weed ... just northern lights since the early morning, i love the effect but starting to miss my brain.
Yesterday just after take the lasts pictures, i decided put out the room the 19 super silver haze seedlings. I have a ton of young plants growing under a cheap 180w led light, but the flowering room now is a little more minimalist. Im looking for a new led lamp or a CMH ... but im out off budget from a while.

 

[repuk]

Try some Screw In Led bulbs... easily available, cheap and effective. I've vegged huge plants (and flowered with superb yields) with just 190-200W worth of them...

 

[unnamedmike]

Try some Screw In Led bulbs... easily available, cheap and effective. I've vegged huge plants (and flowered with superb yields) with just 190-200W worth of them...

Thanks for the idea Doing that i can test all the indica seedlings (20 reg and 20 fem -) and fill the jars for the summer.