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spider mites

E

Eminem

Pretty sure I have spider mites. I have these little webs at the bottom of the plants that have stuff in them. I thought it was fungus or the start of mold when I saw it. But my partner said he looked it up and saw its spider mites.

I dont think the problem is too bad as it hasnt affected the plants in flower. I see signs but not much damage. One possible reason is we are struggling with humidity and humidity levels are at 70% at times. I read that high RH helps kill the mites.

I am in a bind as I have some pretty large areas to treat. I just filled a room today, and the other room is around day 30 of 12/12.

I was hoping to just treat the new flower room and the moms, and try to keep the mites from spreading and by keeping the moms mite free, I can eventually get rid of them. Or would I just be locked in a vicious cycle?

We have some stuff from Home Depot called Organicide and I am going to pick up some Avid in a few days.
 

hempknowsis

Member
I'm not an expert on this subject but I picked up a small bottle of floramite on ebay. Mixed it up according to the directions, sprayed on plants and grow area. ZERO mites or problems since.
 

P.D.S

Member
Id use a systemic insecticide/miticide(sp?) i know azamax is systemic and i think floramite is also, i might be wrong though
 

geopolitical

Vladimir Demikhov Fanboy
Veteran
Eh, use neem or avid, both will work well and are relatively safe if used according to the label.
 

P.D.S

Member
folar spraying with crowded plant rooms and high plant counts doesn't have the effectiveness that a systemic insecticide/miticide does
 
E

Eminem

folar spraying with crowded plant rooms and high plant counts doesn't have the effectiveness that a systemic insecticide/miticide does


Can you explain in detail?

Googled systemic and heres what I got:

(of a pesticide) absorbed and circulated by a plant or other organism so as to be lethal to pests that feed on it.

So doe that mean I just have to spray part of the plant and it will treat the whole plant? Or are systemic insecticide applied through the res?
 

rooted

Member
systemic just means it stays in the plant, some systemics pesticides are applied through the roots, some by foliar application

floramite is safer than avid and still very effective, it's the only thing i've ever seen actually kill an entire population.

it takes 21 days to break down completely so don't spray any flowering plants.

mites lay eggs all over the bottom of your leaves so you gotta spray the undersides good

good luck man

PS organicide is not very effective and it smells NASTY like rotten fish, seriously stank my whole house up...but it is organic :jerkit: lol
 

spongegirlz

Member
:yeahthats regarding organocide

although organic, yuk, this stuff really stinks, as it's 92% fish oil :yoinks: good for outdoor gardens only

fingers crossed, trying the organic Neem Seed Oil extract picked up yesterday

big love and prayers to all gardeners with the dreaded borg
 

P.D.S

Member
systemic pesticides work best for large crop applications usually through the water supply.yes some systemic miticides can be applied and absorbed through the leaves. If you've only got a couple of plants by all means use a folar spray but if i remember correctly em you've got a big couple of rooms and spraying will be a long and hard road togo down as you said your trying to stop the spread of mites not stop them on you current crop so by systemically feeding your mothers you will effectively kill off the spidermite population because its food supply is contaminated , I have used azamax systemically( in the water supply) and it has effectively killed off the borg in my room
 
B

boo

avid works excelent but has a bad rap...it breaks down completely when given time but as mentioned previously, never use it in flower as it will be smoked...I've used it 3 times in 9 years...never had an issue
 
M

mrdizzle

systemic stuff works great, but it will also be left in the bud, so depending on how much you like the people smoking your bud. I read someone say 21 days, but from what i understand avid is illegal in a lot of states because it is systemic and doesnt leave the plant.
 

MobbDeep

Member
Ahh..spider mites..I got one thing to say about them,THEY ARE BAD NEWS!!! Iv had them once..it started off in veg..I noticed small webs near the bottom of the plants..then tiny little dots on the leaves where they had sucked the plants juice..for sure you have spidermites ,check out the bottom of the leaves,if you see a TINY moving lil bugger..then you have spidermites..Depending how on how many plants you have,how big they are,and in what stage (veg or flower)..then theyr either easy to get rid of,or EXTREMELY hard..

Spidermites LOVE higher temps,and DRY conditions..and how fast they reproduce depdns on how hot it is,and how dry it is..they produce ALOT faster in hot temps and low rh,and will quickly overrun any garden..jsut like they did mine..they ruined my crop..so be CAREFUL,and attack them NOW..before its too late,..

1.Keep temps cool and rh high to prevent them,and to stop thm from breeding outta
control..

2.spray entire plants with neem oil/water especially the lower leaves

3.you can spray with liquid seaweed..this has been proven to have a SMALL effect on them..but if you already have some on hand,than its worth the try..

4."wash" them off th leaves with a hard spray of water..this should be ur first wave of attack..thats what I did..

5. use a light cooking oil and water as a spray..the oil "clogs" and suffocates them..rember spidermites hate moisture..

6.This is the final and most lethal weapon..this is what id do HANDS DOWN,and you should buy it RIGHT NOW..please dont wait..need oil and any other remedy dont even compare to this shit..its called HOT SHOT NO PEST STRIP...http://www.hotshotbrand.com/ProductCategories/IndoorInsecticides/NoPestStrip/you can get it in home depot..near the ant/pesticide aisle..look for it,they DEF have it..its like 3 dollars,and one strip lasts for like 3 months..what you do is turn off all fans,exhaust,etc..then hang near the plants..I did it when the lgihts were off..by the next day,all the mites were DEAD..this shit completely nukes them
 
E

Eminem

Just so everyone knows, I have two flower rooms that are 18 FEET x 20 FEET each with 8 tables in each room. So I have a shitload of plants. Washing each plant is not going to be realistic.

I checked the link to hotbox but that is a sulphur burner. I thought that was for mold, not mites?
 

purple_man

Well-known member
Veteran
high all!!!

first and foremost, try to find out if you brought the mites into your room, by clones or by animals or such -> try prevent next round, check your air intake if they get sucked into your room (if you live in a area with a lot of vegetation around you) if so, try put filters on the intake.
now let's check the poisons...
first of all i would advise to NOT USE SYSTEMATIC stuff, because if it is systematic in nearly all cases the stuff will be in present in your end product -> bad idea... you might harm the folks who smoke the buds as well -> why systematic poisons are normaly a NO GO for weed...

biologicaly since you have a bigger area, best advice would be to get predators...
try find some floor fly larvees (in german they call them floor fliegen larve). they can eat alot of mites per day... introduce them once a week or every second week, and you should keep them "controlled", else you could try predator mites (but in my opinion they are not as effective...).

and when you finnish the grow, try find DIMILIN in europe it is sold in home depots... it's a very toxic thing BUT not systematic... spray your whole room completly with this stuff...
repeat when you bring in new plants, and all should be dead... BUT you have to spray everything and the plants as a whole up and downside... after around 1-2 weeks the dimilin is decomposed and the room should be clean...

and yeah, if you mite get the mites from fresh clones, get yourself some neem oil, make a spraying solution, and dip the clones upside down in it minus the root zone/rockwool...

i hope this helps...

blessss!
ps.: sulphur burner is for mold and powdery mildew -> also VERY nasty, cause in the end you got the sulphur in/on the buds... A BIG NO NO!!!
 

MobbDeep

Member
buy some Hot Hot No Pest Strips from Home Depot..buy 3-4 of them..sine they very cheap,and hang them up when everything is off..so the vapor stays in the room..google it..alot of people consider this the ONLY effective spidermite remedy..since some try neem oil,etc..and it doesnt really work as for them as well as others..
 

rooted

Member
buy some Hot Hot No Pest Strips from Home Depot..buy 3-4 of them..sine they very cheap,and hang them up when everything is off..so the vapor stays in the room..google it..alot of people consider this the ONLY effective spidermite remedy..since some try neem oil,etc..and it doesnt really work as for them as well as others..

lmao....no pest strips are for closet growers dude he's running like 30k

floramite is your savior here, high rh will slow them down but you're risking pm/mold

if you have a shopvac those work great for getting rid of webs and knocking down the population a bit before spraying

predatory mites are a long term solution to be introduced at the beginning of flower before a large population is established
 

MobbDeep

Member
One 65g unit will treat storage spaces and closets which measure 900-1200 cubic feet for up to 4 months (a 1040 cu. ft. room measures 10' x 13' with an 8 foot ceiling). If more than one is required, distribute them over the space equally. Record the date of installation so that the old strip may be replaced with a new strip at the end of the 4 month period or when effectiveness diminishes. Do not allow children or pets to sleep in these areas when treatment is in progress.

They advertise this for basements,storage areas,etc..so if the space if too big,just hang more of them ..
 

smokeymacpot

Active member
Veteran
spray them with oil based(neem e.t.c) pesticide, kills them instantly and when i had them first spray got nearly all, 2nd spray a couple of days later finished them off. make sure the plants get a good coating all over the leaves and brush the plant upwards with your hands to make sure the underside of the leaves are treated.
 

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