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spider mites control in the uk

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hi VerdantGreen , have also found out the expensive way that predators are not a viable solution in permanent flowerrooms.

In veg they need replaceing as its hard to maintain a population and the cost adds up.

This pest off stuff from Hydrogarden actually does a pretty good if messy job , poor girls look like the victims of a Bukkake session , have observed the simple killing mechanism under the microccope , the sprayed solution contracts as it evaporates and sets solid trapping and suffocateing all motile pests , falls of later or can be brushed gently if overdone.
Only downsides are if you miss any infested leaf they will come back later , not really suitable on flowering buds as it will do the same damage to trichomes as mites.

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Equally good results useing a watery mix of cheap wallpaper paste and a dash of washing up liquid and costs a few pence , very good to dip gifted clones in as a general precaution.


The Provado spray worked quite well for me despite the active chemical not being specific for mites , adults heavily reduced and juvenile stages wiped out , eggs unfortunately unharmed so will gain you some time at least.


When the Vapona dichlorvos strip was still available is was the simplest and , with a little commonsense , one of the safest solutions.

Since the nanny state has banned them on spurious evidence have come up with a workable alternative , pound shop plug in air freshener filled with something nasty from pre 1970 , two dark cycles a week apart has cleared two rooms of a moderate infestation.
After forty years they have lost any resistance they had aquired and die with little argument.

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Vapour or smoke has got to be the best way to ensure a complete kill and avoid mould issues from spraying and the difficulty of total coverage.


If you want the Vapona product it is still possible to get them from established Indian and Pakistani hardware shops under the counter or sometimes on open display in foreign packageing , still licensed for some uses in the UK and a dodgy pest controller will sort you out with the equivalent at a price.

Have just been dragged around two garden centres and apart from moaning non stop about the prices , found mites and greenfly on half the plants i looked at.
The gormless manager at Nottcuts shrugged his shoulders and said they must have come in that way and not his problem , a local nursery manager/owner assured me the whitefly were dead and would do no harm despite them wafting off the plants and settling on his head.
Seen them on cut flowers as well , pays to check non canna sources and plants around your house , worse this year than i have ever seen in the last forty locally.

I am less concerned about the few molecules of chemical still present in the buds eight weeks after treatment that will not survive a flame when smoked , than the hormones and additives present in the food i eat which will definately enter my system.

Any increased health risk will be lost amongst the dozens of known carcinogens present and accepted in smokeing.


what about lady birds bugs

The adults seem to have a death wish with HPS lights and fight more than feed , juvenile stage is a killing machine on mites but leaves eggs alone , there are better choices unless you can catch them in numbers for free , a few minuits here with a conifer hedge would collect hundreds.
 

STUPPA

Member
Alright i'm gonna have to contest this claim that predator mites (Phytoseiulus) hibernate , i have been doing some reading on it and it seems they are actually not capable of hibernating or diapause, whereas spider mites will hibernate depending on temp and daylengths .

It makes perfect sense to me because the predators have the advantage over spider mites in every way . They are more resiliant ,stronger and less sensitive to temps . If predators hibernate experts like defnders.co.uk would be quick to tell you so or they would be out of business pretty sharpish .

The biggest thing you have to watch with predators is the temps, they simply slow down the colder it gets and eat and breed less hence becoming less effective as a treatment .They will also resort to cannabilism once their food supply has either gone into hibernation or been wiped out , so re-applying periodically is necessary if you have a persistant spider mite problem that could be caused by the your enviroment.

As for the cost well 2 applications of 200 mites(enuff for a small grow) is about £15 when i compare that to the amount of money i wasted on spray after spray which never solved the problem it actually works out cheaper IMO.
 

V1AAA

Member
not 1 reply on sulphur burners, or sulphur candles?

state what you as an individual have used, and how effective it was, also where it was purchased.

i read a thread on here with pic's the other day, and the guy was using some form of predator mites, and he said they were doing a good job

ps, i dont want to start a pissing match, so please keep the thread on topic. :)
 

STUPPA

Member
not 1 reply on sulphur burners, or sulphur candles?

state what you as an individual have used, and how effective it was, also where it was purchased.

i read a thread on here with pic's the other day, and the guy was using some form of predator mites, and he said they were doing a good job

ps, i dont want to start a pissing match, so please keep the thread on topic. :)


Never used either but i'm thinking about using "p" fumers in a place i have'nt grown in before just incase there are any critters in the nooks and crannies .


http://www.growell.co.uk/p/0478/Fortefog-P-Fumers.html
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Foomar - great and informative post! :tiphat:

Alright i'm gonna have to contest this claim that predator mites (Phytoseiulus) hibernate , i have been doing some reading on it and it seems they are actually not capable of hibernating or diapause, whereas spider mites will hibernate depending on temp and daylengths .

It makes perfect sense to me because the predators have the advantage over spider mites in every way . They are more resiliant ,stronger and less sensitive to temps . If predators hibernate experts like defnders.co.uk would be quick to tell you so or they would be out of business pretty sharpish .

The biggest thing you have to watch with predators is the temps, they simply slow down the colder it gets and eat and breed less hence becoming less effective as a treatment .They will also resort to cannabilism once their food supply has either gone into hibernation or been wiped out , so re-applying periodically is necessary if you have a persistant spider mite problem that could be caused by the your enviroment.

As for the cost well 2 applications of 200 mites(enuff for a small grow) is about £15 when i compare that to the amount of money i wasted on spray after spray which never solved the problem it actually works out cheaper IMO.

well im pretty careful about what i post, but perhaps im wrong or talking about another predator mite.

i wish id had better luck with the persemilis from defenders because it would have been ideal. i tried them twice, and the second time i tried to keep the humidity up because their eggs dont hatch well under 50% humidity. both times i used them they didnt beat the mites, which i had stopped using neem etc on because of the predators! i did some research and thats when i read about the day length being important to keep them eating well

having gone back to rigorous neem and pest off i have eliminated them now or damn nearly, so i will just keep regular with sprays and that has always worked with me in the past.

cheers

VG
 

DocLeaf

procreationist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Predators can act as a prevention,, but not as the Cure,, esp. in a forest :dance:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xik-y0xlpZ0

Effective organic sprays include solutions of crushed chili pepper, crushed garlic, tobacco, and water mixed together for 24hours. Make sure to ALWAYS spray the undersides of the leaves !!

We forgot to say you can add a drop of washing up liquid to the above to act as a wetting-agent, but that's not organic.
 

STUPPA

Member
Predators can act as a prevention,, but not as the Cure,, esp. in a forest :dance:.

That is your opinion doc ;) , i would beg to differ .



I hope that any newcomers reading this thread will use their commonsense and NOT use any systemic sprays or concentrates . As a general rule if it says "for ornamentals only " or the bottle is plastered with warnings and skull and crossbones DO NOT use it .

Use it on your roses and orchids by all means but to use those things on your beloved herb is just mental IMO .Try and keep everything as natural as possible and you can't go wrong .

I cannot believe experienced growers are giving out this "advice" , not good at all :noway:
 

DocLeaf

procreationist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
That is your opinion doc ;) , i would beg to differ .

Put it this way,, 4 weeks into flower and you spot an outbreak of spidermites,, then ladybugs aren't gonna do a thing,, absolutely nothing... they only eat a few mites/eggs a day... while the larvae eat more.

As a preventive,,, then biological pest control,, as part of a garden program,, can be a most effective way of controlling pests before they can establish a colony. We collected and released loads of ladybirds the other month into our glasshouses ,, and this month there are lots of ladybird larvae scuttling about the pepper plants.

To reiterate,, the ONLY way to fully eradicate mite colonies that are already established on plants in vegetative growth,, is to isolate and spray,, or compost the plants and start over again!
In flowering its simply a case of harm reduction, since mites tax energy from the plant and make crop yields smaller.
 

STUPPA

Member
To reiterate,, the ONLY way to fully eradicate mite colonies that are already established on plants in vegetative growth,, is to isolate and spray,, or compost the plants and start over again!
In flowering its simply a case of harm reduction, since mites tax energy from the plant and make crop yields smaller.

I don't think so tho, you could be just playing a game of catch up. The mites and other bugs could be in your enviroment , in and around your home or grow room so removing and isolating or throwing them out might just be a short fix till your next crop and then they will be back again ,then you have to repeat the same process again indefinitely.

Fungus gnats and moth flies are a prime example of this , it does'nt matter if you get rid of them in your growroom cos there are loads more of them breeding and living down your plug holes drains and in the enviroment around your home just waiting to explore and set up somewhere else ,i.e your grow room .
 

funkymonkey

Member
SB Plant Invigorator is by far the best organic product around for mites atm. Pest Off, Nite Nite Spider Mite and Spray Safe all work, but the SBPI only takes a week of spraying every other day to wipe out mites, the others I mention can take upto 3 weeks. You need a pump-up presure sprayer and need to ensure full coverage, the little RTU type sprayers are next to useless. Add a couple of drops of Ecover washing up liquid (organic) or liquid organic soap as your wetting agent in the sprayer. Neem is pretty good for avoiding getting mites in numbers, but won't eradicate them if you have an infestation. Pyrethrin will kill mites but not in the low concentrations found in the Pyrethrin based RTU spray bottles, and mites build up a resistance to Pyrethrin very quickly so Pyrethrin and Neem are best for dissuading the onset of mites and not for wiping out an infestation.

I've never used a chemical to eradicate mites on cannabis, those are best used on roses and other ornamentals.

I'm hoping some UK supplier launches a Spinosad based product soon, that stuff works brilliantly.

About mites and other bugs in garden centres, most places are riddled with them, cactuses are favourite homes for mites and I've seen many garden centres where the cactus section was completely infested with mites. There was one place I was in a couple of months ago, one of these huge places that sells tons of plants, and they had an 8 foot cactus as the centrepiece of their cactus display, well this thing had masses of mite webs on the top and they had obviously been there a long time as the webs extended 3-4 feet to the other tops of this big cactus. If buying any plant from somewhere like that, I'd immerse it completely in a bucket of organic pesticide before even taking it inside my house, better just to not buy anything from them and find somewhere not as overrun with pests.
 

ChaosCatalunya

5.2 club is now 8.1 club...
Veteran
not 1 reply on sulphur burners, or sulphur candles?

state what you as an individual have used, and how effective it was, also where it was purchased.

i read a thread on here with pic's the other day, and the guy was using some form of predator mites, and he said they were doing a good job

ps, i dont want to start a pissing match, so please keep the thread on topic. :)

I used "Greenhouse Smoke Bombs" or somesuch, conical 3 pack greenhouse bug smokers, guess they were mainly sulphur thinking about it. They kill all living mites, but are not ovicidal, so the next Gen hatch out quickly and carry on.

Agree with others about not ever using in Flower, but with a clean growroom, buggy cuttings in Veg once dipped/sprayed with Torque/Talstar never get infested. I once sprayed a 5m2 SCROG crop with a poxy 500ml hand pump spray, a nightmare, reaching 1m into the middle of the canopy to try and get them all as a small outbreak had been spotted before Flower, once there it was a Jungle... but it still managed to kill them all in one hit.

As a last resort in Flower you can actually freeze them with a CO2 Fire Extinguisher, it works far better than you would believe, just make sure you do not go too far and freeze the plant...
 

cannaboy

Member
I like my hotbox sulphume as it stops them instantly in there tracks the leaf PH changes and they stop feeding then breeding then there gone for good in my case,,
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
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this thread is shaping up very well, can a mod change the title so spider is spelled correctly please? - then it will come up better on a search ;)

VG
 

funkymonkey

Member
I'm just about to build a UVC mite killer chamber. I'm going to use an old wooden cupboard I once used for keeping seedlings in, I'm fitting some UVC sterilising tubes and a timer and gonna experiment with how much exposure is need to kill all the mites and eggs without damaging the plant as UVC will damage plant tissues as well, it breaks down DNA. In the meantime while I'm perfecting the UVC chamber of death I'm using SB Plant Invigorator to deal with the mites I have in flowering, plants are only 6 weeks into a 16 week flower period (pure sat run) so I'll wipe em out now before they get any more bud mass on them, I hate spraying anything on buds. Once I have the UVC thing worked out, I will be able to deal with any mites that appear in flower without spraying, which will be wicked. I'm gonna deliberately leave the mites alone on my vegging cuttings so I can use the infected clones in my UVC experiment.
 

STUPPA

Member
Hey funkymonkey i like the idea, chamber of death LOL

Where do you get your SB plant invigorator from ? i have'nt seen it in any of the local shops .It says on their site it is a mildew killer aswell what a bonus.

http://www.sbproducts.co.uk/
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hi funkymonkey , not just the local plant sellers then , if they dont raise the stock themselves they dont give a shit , have seen fools queue to buy plants i would burn so why bother.

As i cut down trees for a liveing , have tried to go a bit green and eco freindly in other ways .
Organic and predator methods have not worked for me in my particular circumstances , mites only a summer problem and am satisfied with my own risk assessment with a decent knowledge of the relevant science.

Had considered UVC for killing PM but took it no further on risks to the eye at the levels required , would be interested in how it goes if you do it.

Experiments with industrial and home generated gasses suggest 3000 ppm of HCN for 15 minutes kills every life stage 100% dead , bit too much damage to the plant for me but might be useable with more tests.

Pure nitrogen kills every motile stage after six hours but not the eggs , no damage to plant.

Carbon dioxide the same , eggs will hatch later.

Ammonia is next on the list.

Hard to find a gas which will kill mites without collateral plant damage , hydrogen sulphide and chlorine proved unsuitable for this reason alone.

Ozone did the job but with serious and lasting plant damage for weeks after , same for propane and a list of similar simple organics.

Best guess is 500 ppm HCN under two atmospheres pressure would get enougth across the permeable egg membrane to kill , wont get HSE approval fur sure.

Would this be classed as organic ?
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Two weeks later and this one seems to have stopped a pretty bad dose of mites long established in veg and male rooms , if you cannot source floramite this seems a reasonable alternative.
Be aware that the concentrated product sold under the same name did not contain Abamectin and was utterly useless for mites , check the bottle to confirm its presence.

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This pdf is a good concise guide to how pesticides work and worth a read.
 

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