seedlings not growing..

[Bwanabud]

For future reference, leave them in the small cups until you see roots showing...or can "feel" them with a chopstick..don't use clear cups, roots don't like light. I wouldn't switch into a larger pot size, until the roots have gotten established. Remember vermiculite holds water, and you want the best drainage possible....be very careful with any nutrients you give babies, usually 1/4 strength every 3/4 waterings...let the plant tell you what she wants....don't over love them.

It looks like nute burn, or over watering issues right now,,,,the leaf is burned/brown...good luck

 

[rasta man]

thanks bwanabud..if not vermiculite then just into the soil? dont give any nutes ... just water... have mix of promix, worm castings and vermiculite one third each...put a little blood meal in I think..mighta put too much..been learning that less can be more..I did give them a little worm tea earlier that I had made in a bucket.. but they dont use enuf when that little so I quit doin that.. although they were looking good at the time... might whip up another small batch...

 

[Bwanabud]

Most peeps use chunky Perlite, for additional drainage and air to the roots. It's easier to control your water retention, and don't end up with a soaked muddy mess for the roots. I'd be very careful giving those babies ANY nutes at this point, PM has some base elements/nutes in the mix...to let the baby get started.

Quit loving them so hard bro, keep them warm,,,,lightly moist,,,and let them grow

 

[rasta man]

10 - 4... thanks for that... I wondered if pro mix had any nutrients at all... so thats a good thing... just water for a while and stay away..

 

[Bwanabud]

10 - 4... thanks for that... I wondered if pro mix had any nutrients at all... so thats a good thing... just water for a while and stay away..

You got it, keep em warm, shot glass of water for now,,,make the roots "search" for water. Once the roots get established the plant will grow fast,,,then start increasing water amount,,,and slowly start a nute schedule, allowing her to feed on the elements and not burn her leafs.

Worse thing you can do is get high, and sit looking at the plant...ya feel like you should "do" something to help...just leave her the fuk alone, she knows what to do

 

[Mike Myers]

I do mine 18-6 for veg, foxfarm seedling soil. No nutes for first 2 weeks just distilled water, then 1/2 strength nutes when/after transplant to coco. 24 hrs veg is unneeded, plants need "sleep" too

 

[Bwanabud]

I do mine 18-6 for veg, foxfarm seedling soil. No nutes for first 2 weeks just distilled water, then 1/2 strength nutes when/after transplant to coco. 24 hrs veg is unneeded, plants need "sleep" too

No disrespect friend, but they don't need sleep or rest...not in the veg state, simply not true. You will incur stretch, and save very little on the electric bill

 

[Guest]

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[rasta man]

sounds good... appreciate all advice..dang it them are nice... think Ill redo the last sprouts I just placed and go with the 50/50...

 

[rasta man]

goin for a shot glass of water now... actually stayed out of there for couple hours... hahaa

 

[rasta man]

Kief.. that is what I was hoping mine would look like by now... pretty bummed about that... but hey... its farmin...always next time..use to be a farmer..only outside....

 

[Bwanabud]

sounds good... appreciate all advice..dang it them are nice... think Ill redo the last sprouts I just placed and go with the 50/50...

You almost can't have too much[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] perlite, it stops the PM from compacting over time...allows better drainage, stores water and nutes, more oxygen to root system. I buy BIG bags for $18, a truck load at a time [/FONT]

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Ive got 5 seedlings under an LED and they are 6 days old ...they are healthy looking and not spindly at all... just very short...thought they would be getting taller by now... can see 2nd set of leaves starting...seems like a pot of boiling water... maybe Im just excited and expecting too much... use to grow years ago... but never under lights like this..

The temperature is too high. 84F or 29C is too high - more like 68F or 20C. The leaf temperature is going to be higher than the room temp because it is directly under the lights. When the temperature is too high it wreaks all kinds of havoc on the seedlings ability to transpire, and air humidity because of the small root system.

By the way, before anyone says that 20C/68F is too low, I've planted autoflowering plants outdoor in May, when night temperatures still hit 10C/50F , and the seedlings did great.

Also, the nutrients they're getting may be the wrong NPK. Seedlings need more phosphorus (roots) and potassium (stems). I like to grow seedlings on coco coir (always good to rinse before use) and add Atami B'Cuzz flower hardener with a 0-20-30 NPK, to Canna Coco A+B, both at 0.4 EC (0.8 EC, plus filtered water of 0.6 EC, 1.4 EC total). With GH B'Essenstials for micros, I used that right from planting seedlings trough mid vegging. Wonderful things happen when you use this formula - the roots get extremely intricate and don't create rootbound conditions.

Just a few random thoughts

With such a highly developed root system, all the nutrients get absorbed, you can use a lower EC than recommended, and there is no need for flushing. There is no purpling of the stems. There is no burning of the plants, because P and K don't burn roots.

What I really like about this formula is that the roots grow to the side of the pot, and then go 'oh, that's not where the food is', and stop growing. No more rootbound plants, no need for airpots.

And another thing is, that plants with good root systems don't need as much nitrogen, which I think is also taken from the air as NO3 (80% of the air is NO3). I think the (air) root system helps the plant get rid of extra O2 after they take up the nitrogen. Which is maybe why plants that get rootbound can get nitrogen deficiency. When mulch is added to the top of the soil, a micro-climate is created that allows roots to grow through the top of the soil and into the mulch, which massively increases the surface of the air roots exposed to air. Another reason to use wide pots and mulch - maximizing the amount of air roots.

I use supersoil in the middle, however any heavily fertilized soil would do.

And lastly I like the use of a reservoir in pots, that the plants' water roots can grow into. I got that idea from The Rev's book True Living Organics.

That way the plant can breathe, eat, and drink all at the same time. It hugely increases it's metabolism, and gets growth rates easily comparable with hydroponics, and it is completely organic.

 

[Mike Myers]

No disrespect friend, but they don't need sleep or rest...not in the veg state, simply not true. You will incur stretch, and save very little on the electric bill

To each their own homie, haste makes waste. Savings will depend on what your vegging under and the cost of a kwh. Which in this area is pretty high. Nature doesn't have 24 hrs of sun, except maybe the poles during certain months and not much grows there. In my experience, the girls look happier with some rest. More stretching just means more training, and at 6-7 days or whatever his seedlings are at, they look fine. No need to induce stretch

 

[rasta man]

The temperature is too high. 84F or 29C is too high - more like 68F or 20C. The leaf temperature is going to be higher than the room temp because it is directly under the lights. When the temperature is too high it wreaks all kinds of havoc on the seedlings ability to transpire, and air humidity because of the small root system.

By the way, before anyone says that 20C/68F is too low, I've planted autoflowering plants outdoor in May, when night temperatures still hit 10C/50F , and the seedlings did great.

Also, the nutrients they're getting may be the wrong NPK. Seedlings need more phosphorus (roots) and potassium (stems). I like to grow seedlings on coco coir (always good to rinse before use) and add Atami B'Cuzz flower hardener with a 0-20-30 NPK, to Canna Coco A+B, both at 0.4 EC (0.8 EC, plus filtered water of 0.6 EC, 1.4 EC total). With GH B'Essenstials for micros, I used that right from planting seedlings trough mid vegging. Wonderful things happen when you use this formula - the roots get extremely intricate and don't create rootbound conditions.

Just a few random thoughts

With such a highly developed root system, all the nutrients get absorbed, you can use a lower EC than recommended, and there is no need for flushing. There is no purpling of the stems. There is no burning of the plants, because P and K don't burn roots.

What I really like about this formula is that the roots grow to the side of the pot, and then go 'oh, that's not where the food is', and stop growing. No more rootbound plants, no need for airpots.

And another thing is, that plants with good root systems don't need as much nitrogen, which I think is also taken from the air as NO3 (80% of the air is NO3). I think the (air) root system helps the plant get rid of extra O2 after they take up the nitrogen. Which is maybe why plants that get rootbound can get nitrogen deficiency. When mulch is added to the top of the soil, a micro-climate is created that allows roots to grow through the top of the soil and into the mulch, which massively increases the surface of the air roots exposed to air. Another reason to use wide pots and mulch - maximizing the amount of air roots.

I use supersoil in the middle, however any heavily fertilized soil would do.

And lastly I like the use of a reservoir in pots, that the plants' water roots can grow into. I got that idea from The Rev's book True Living Organics.

That way the plant can breathe, eat, and drink all at the same time. It hugely increases it's metabolism, and gets growth rates easily comparable with hydroponics, and it is completely organic.

thanks for that .. lot of info.. most of which is over my head.. but I did turn down the heat...

 

[rasta man]

I posted this question in the pro mix section since I use that but no replies yet...what is correlation between size of container and quantity of harvest..I suppose you can only get so much out of a 600 watt system no matter what size the container..is that correct.. using vics super soil recipe..6 plants under 600 watts..

 

[Bwanabud]

To each their own homie, haste makes waste. Savings will depend on what your vegging under and the cost of a kwh. Which in this area is pretty high. Nature doesn't have 24 hrs of sun, except maybe the poles during certain months and not much grows there. In my experience, the girls look happier with some rest. More stretching just means more training, and at 6-7 days or whatever his seedlings are at, they look fine. No need to induce stretch

It's not sound science, and emphatically disputed by most professionals on multiple books/forums/manufacturers. You can grow how you choose, I'm not saying 18/6 won't work...I'm saying 24/7 in veg is the industry standard, except for YOU You've stated zero facts to back up your statement, other than saving money on utilities..that has squat with growing plants.

BTW: His plants don't look fine, the leaves are burned,,,and he has had soil/media issues.

I posted this question in the pro mix section since I use that but no replies yet...what is correlation between size of container and quantity of harvest..I suppose you can only get so much out of a 600 watt system no matter what size the container..is that correct.. using vics super soil recipe..6 plants under 600 watts..

The pot size ratio is more involved that that, plant size & strain would have a large effect...along with total veg time & flower time. You can have killer yields with 2 gallon pots, or 20 gallon totes....generally it allows for more root growth, and less waterings. I use 5 gallon pots, and average 604 grams per 600w HPS...I veg 8 weeks, and fim/top/super crop to 18-22" in height,,,then grow in scrog racks. I get 35-40 colas on each plant, and strip all of the lower growth & bud sites.

Of course Mike will disagree with all of the above

 

[Mike Myers]

Larger container = Larger root system = Larger yield. Of course light size and veg time depending. Smaller containers you'll have to water more most likely. For 6 under a 6, I'd go 2-3 gal, veg for 2-3 weeks after you transplant to bush them out a bit, then flip. Thats why I don't like to have them stretch, easier to manage when they are bushy and stout. Lanky floppers can be a **** late in flower...learned that lesson!

 

[Bwanabud]

I grow healthy happy weed, not roots

 

[Mike Myers]

It's not sound science, and emphatically disputed by most professionals on multiple books/forums/manufacturers. You can grow how you choose, I'm not saying 18/6 won't work...I'm saying 24/7 in veg is the industry standard, except for YOU You've stated zero facts to back up your statement, other than saving money on utilities..that has squat with growing plants.

BTW: His plants don't look fine, the leaves are burned,,,and he has had soil/media issues.



The pot size ratio is more involved that that, plant size & strain would have a large effect...along with total veg time & flower time. You can have killer yields with 2 gallon pots, or 20 gallon totes....generally it allows for more root growth, and less waterings. I use 5 gallon pots, and average 604 grams per 600w HPS...I veg 8 weeks, and fim/top/super crop to 18-22" in height,,,then grow in scrog racks. I get 35-40 colas on each plant, and strip all of the lower growth & bud sites.

Of course Mike will disagree with all of the above

I disagree with nothing you have stated just offering my experience, that's what forums are for. Although I am missing the "facts" that you have stated to back up 24/7 of veg, Other than "You won't save that much on your power bill". Which as I said depending on your energy costs could be alot. Stay High Homie, not here to bicker