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BigTop

Member
The reason why I don't think it's subtilis is twofold. Firstly, all the liquid products containing subtilis are much thicker and the app rate is higher than RE. This has to do with storing inactive bacteria in a slurry emulsion w/food (either milk or molasses).
Second is the container. H&G goes through a lot of trouble to keep light and air out, and given the first reasons outlined this further leads me to believe that the bacteria are anaerobic. Plus, the reps aren't totally ignorant and 'anaerobic' isn't exactly an award winning sales term.
As for the gunk in your reservoir if the bacteria start to spread through your rez and then find the conditions unhospitable they won't be able to reproduce and will die off. It's not just living bacteria that make up bio-film (or gunk, slime, etc...) but masses of dead bacteria with living bacteria on top, eating, breeding, and shitting everywhere.


Must spread more rep... thank you Humble1~ very insightful... appreciate it!!! ;-)
 
I said increase carbon... not carbon dioxide. You wanna argue some more for whatever reason? Like I said, you are arguing with yourself.
Do you need my bank account # to wire the $1,000,000.00?


Well then you need to elaborate more. Plants pump carbon INTO the ground from the atmosphere and not vice versa. adding carbon to the soil only feeds the active microfauna within the substrate which in turn simple amounts to more nutrients for the plant.

You're the only one here who's arguing man. I'm trying to have a civil discussion and you came in guns ablazing trying to claim you're the jesus of the horticulture world. Please smoke a bowl and come back when you're ready to talk with me sans the personal attacks
 

globel

Member
I love how every one thinks nature is fair. Or how if there is something grate there has to be some kind of draw back. One of my favorites is people that thing you have to sacrifice yield for quality. My point is nature is not fair and hormones "can" do only good thing.
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Well then you need to elaborate more. Plants pump carbon INTO the ground from the atmosphere and not vice versa. adding carbon to the soil only feeds the active microfauna within the substrate which in turn simple amounts to more nutrients for the plant.

You're the only one here who's arguing man. I'm trying to have a civil discussion and you came in guns ablazing trying to claim you're the jesus of the horticulture world. Please smoke a bowl and come back when you're ready to talk with me sans the personal attacks

I guess you can't be bothered to read the study. The way it works is to apply CARBON directly to the leaves under full sunlight.
I'd call you a dick but I won't because I think you are not intelligent enough to read and understand my posts or the freaking study (LOL telling me to elaborate more) I linked above, before commenting. You can either read the study, understand the study and principle therein, or continue acting like a dick. I really don't care.

I did this on a fairly large scale (1 acre), noticed and measured increased crop and earlier ripening. Why argue with me. I gave you the facts and a link and you can do your own experiment.

I do know this. It was not economical on table grapes, but it worked. I am sure it would be economical on this crop. I do not know if the plants can take a 50% spray of methanol or not. I would start at @15% and work up until I saw some burn to know the limit of concentration of methanol. I know grapes can take up to 50% on a hot summer day in the deserts of So. Cal. The hotter and more radient the light source, the higher concentration of methanol can be used with no ill effects. Nothing is more organic then carbon.
 

coxnox

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi,

does anyone having problem using this product in your tank ?

i'm growing coco, and i have a little tank(50L), but i never go until the tank is empty, as soon as 25% is out of it i refill with fresh water and do the solution again(EC/PH).

now it make 10days i put the RE in the tank and did refill one times, and at the bottom of my tank i get a brown gunk everywhere.

is it only me that have that shit in my tank ? is it harmfull for the plants ?

how you hydroponic grower use this product in your tank ?

should ata clean help with this ? i use it but i see no differance with the gunk.
 

Twisted pleasur

Active member
Veteran
Cox I stopped using it all together because it was gunking up everything probably because like Humble said not a hospitable environment for it to be in a standing rez. And I tell ya my roots are going off just the same growth is great. I think a good food reg and bug free/clean is the most important. And did I mention the money Im saving now.
 

coxnox

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi,

thanks for the answer, yeah i did stop it too... ;)
allmost all additives make shit in my rez, rhizotonic, cannazym, RE.... and all are claimed to be for hydro growing ! strange
Now i just use the AB nothing else.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
coxnox,
You just started a thread about the problems you're having. I recommended using the additives Canna recommends. If RE causes rez problems, hand water with it once in awhile. But you don't need it if you're using Rhizotonic. Canna coco nutes are one of the most widely used lines, and I don't recall very many people complaining that the canna line gunks up their rez. It could be that if you use only the Canna and their additives, and no RE, you won't have that problem. Good luck. -granger

Humble,
I seriously doubt any of the mfgrs are using anaerobic bacteria intentionally. If they did you'd smell it. I don't know about all b. subtilis products, but the one I've used for years is Bot. AquaShield. It looks like water and is not noticeably thicker than water. -granger
 

coxnox

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi,

i switched from RE to Rhizo but it make me the same shit, 3 days after i get glunk in the rez.
cannazym make me shit too, but it take longer(10days)
 

watts

ohms
Veteran
are you using citric acid in the reservoir? That's caused problems with me and others in the past.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Run some disinfectant thru your system including rez, rinse well. Change rez out a couple of days before you get gunk. -granger
 

coxnox

Well-known member
Veteran
are you using citric acid in the reservoir? That's caused problems with me and others in the past.

Hi,
No i used nitric and phosphoric acids.


Run some disinfectant thru your system including rez, rinse well. Change rez out a couple of days before you get gunk. -granger
Hi,
thanks, but for me it's no way possible to change the rez every couple of days as i run DTW.
and cleaning each refill isn't an option either, i would better don't use them anymore.
 

purplypurps

New member
It is definitely the RE gunking up the res. I had the same problem, I called h&g about it and they said that they had not heard of any problems. Yet my buddy who owns a hydro shops next shipment of new RE had labels on them saying to use only .5 ml per gal. Guess why? Because the bacteria in RE multiply rapidly and then die and now your res go's anaerobic. I have tried what h&g reccomends at .5 ml and my res still go's anaerobic in about 3 days. Only way to use it is just as granger suggested. Hand water it in, every 3 or 4 days is all that is needed I find. I also found it to be a big pain in the a$$ to hand water it so I dropped it out of my lineup.
 

coxnox

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi PP,
Yeah i made the same decision, i did stop it too. I only use it as foliar on the freshly rooted clones, it work like a charm.
Only AB in the rez now, since then any problems

Thanks for the explanation !
 
S

SooperSmurph

Personally I only use RE for clone trays, and transplant time.

I have noticed no differences in quality or yield having cut the product from the Veg & Flower feeding schedule.
 

purplypurps

New member
@SooperSmurph- did you ever run the RE before they changed it? To me that was some good stuff and made a noticeable difference, then h&g had to go and try and make it better and screwed it all up. Hopefully they will feel it in the pocket book and change it back, or at least make 2. They can call it REv1 and REv2, Ha! Bet the original would outsell the new and improved!
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Coxnox,
That's not what I said. You said the rez goes bad after about 2 weeks. So change out the rez at about 10 days. Stop using the RE in your rez since it seems to be the culprit, but use the Cannatonic and Rizotonic since your having problems. -granger
 

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