emeraldcityog
Member
And there is no way for them to build a tolerance to the botanigard either.
Root aphids?? If so I need to go with the nuclear option! Please advise pics included
- Thread starter topset1976
- Start date
And there is no way for them to build a tolerance to the botanigard either.topset1976
Member
Cool I'll keep up with the botaniguard and if I can keep the pots in the saucers that would be much easier. Thanks
lysergicCO
Member
I've been alternating kontos permetherin and mallet in veg. Thought I got them but one month later they are back.
I hate the idea of using acephate indoors but I think this will be my next move along with botaniguard and riptide.
I found some bonide systemic insect control at lowe's (acephate 9.4%) it doesn't even suggest a respirator.
I hate the idea of using acephate indoors but I think this will be my next move along with botaniguard and riptide.
I found some bonide systemic insect control at lowe's (acephate 9.4%) it doesn't even suggest a respirator.
Hello,
This is something that I posted in another thread but may be helpful/inspiring to you regarding your Aphid problem.
Please also Google Hydrogen Peroxide and Aphid control.
"Hydrogen peroxide is the usual name given to H2O2, a water molecule with an extra oxygen atom. A transparent liquid only slightly thicker than water, hydrogen peroxide has many uses, primarily as a bleach at high levels of concentration and as an antimicrobial agent when diluted. These properties make it a useful weapon against aphids, allowing you to disinfect your plants and kill the pesky subterranean interlopers at the same time."
Best of luck to you,
pippa
A Hydroponic Grower wrote this: “ I have been using hydrogen peroxide (H202) in my hydroponic system and thought I'd tell you about it. I use it as an insecticide, root and leaf stimulant. Hydrogen peroxide is a molecule similar to water, but contains an extra oxygen atom. This makes it very reactive. When H202 comes in contact with an anaerobic microorganism, the oxygen jumps to the microorganism, burning it.
For any insecticide I mix 8oz of reverse osmosis (rio) filtered water (you can use distilled water) with 8oz of sugar and boil until the sugar is totally dissolved. Then I add 4 milliliters (35%) H202 and pour the mixture into a gallon of r/o or distilled water. You can dip the plants or spray them, making sure you are using a spreading agent. It kills spider mites on contact and stimulates growth.
As a root stimulant I mix 4 ml H202 per gallon r/o or distilled water. lt seems to stimulate growth and stops root diseases in the initial stages. In bio systems I water the plants with it every few days. In hydro systems I dip the entire root system.
I use the same solution as a spray on leaf. It seems to increase the rate of growth. The overspray is washed into the hydroponic reservoir and kills microorganisms in the tank, resulting in cleaner water.”
PS I am well aware that there are beneficial Microorganisms and that H202 can harm them as well BUT the beneficials can be replaced after any pestilance is eradicated. Cheers again, Pippa
This is something that I posted in another thread but may be helpful/inspiring to you regarding your Aphid problem.
Please also Google Hydrogen Peroxide and Aphid control.
"Hydrogen peroxide is the usual name given to H2O2, a water molecule with an extra oxygen atom. A transparent liquid only slightly thicker than water, hydrogen peroxide has many uses, primarily as a bleach at high levels of concentration and as an antimicrobial agent when diluted. These properties make it a useful weapon against aphids, allowing you to disinfect your plants and kill the pesky subterranean interlopers at the same time."
Best of luck to you,
pippa
A Hydroponic Grower wrote this: “ I have been using hydrogen peroxide (H202) in my hydroponic system and thought I'd tell you about it. I use it as an insecticide, root and leaf stimulant. Hydrogen peroxide is a molecule similar to water, but contains an extra oxygen atom. This makes it very reactive. When H202 comes in contact with an anaerobic microorganism, the oxygen jumps to the microorganism, burning it.
For any insecticide I mix 8oz of reverse osmosis (rio) filtered water (you can use distilled water) with 8oz of sugar and boil until the sugar is totally dissolved. Then I add 4 milliliters (35%) H202 and pour the mixture into a gallon of r/o or distilled water. You can dip the plants or spray them, making sure you are using a spreading agent. It kills spider mites on contact and stimulates growth.
As a root stimulant I mix 4 ml H202 per gallon r/o or distilled water. lt seems to stimulate growth and stops root diseases in the initial stages. In bio systems I water the plants with it every few days. In hydro systems I dip the entire root system.
I use the same solution as a spray on leaf. It seems to increase the rate of growth. The overspray is washed into the hydroponic reservoir and kills microorganisms in the tank, resulting in cleaner water.”
PS I am well aware that there are beneficial Microorganisms and that H202 can harm them as well BUT the beneficials can be replaced after any pestilance is eradicated. Cheers again, Pippa
lysergicCO
Member
Have you actually used h2o2 on root aphids? The article was talking more about spider mites. I wish I had spider mites.
Hello Lysergic,
So sorry, no I have not. I posted the above in case anyone would want to investigate its applications for Aphids.
Here is a nifty link that will show you suggested dosages and their applications.
From Cornell University Dept. of Agriculture regarding Hydrogen Peroxide (look a few pages down)
http://web.pppmb.cals.cornell.edu/r...for-organic-insect-and-disease-management.pdf
If you decide to try something and are able to isolate a single plant to work with then give it a shot! I feel a bit braver due to my previous experience with using it for PM.
Also Google your need, Agricultural applications Hydrogen Peroxide for pest mgt. or Aphids Kill Hydrogen Peroxide or something to that effect.
Best wishes to you and I hope that my modest Post may have provided some food for thought
Pippa/Vert
So sorry, no I have not. I posted the above in case anyone would want to investigate its applications for Aphids.
Here is a nifty link that will show you suggested dosages and their applications.
From Cornell University Dept. of Agriculture regarding Hydrogen Peroxide (look a few pages down)
http://web.pppmb.cals.cornell.edu/r...for-organic-insect-and-disease-management.pdf
If you decide to try something and are able to isolate a single plant to work with then give it a shot! I feel a bit braver due to my previous experience with using it for PM.
Also Google your need, Agricultural applications Hydrogen Peroxide for pest mgt. or Aphids Kill Hydrogen Peroxide or something to that effect.
Best wishes to you and I hope that my modest Post may have provided some food for thought
Pippa/Vert
StonerPoker
Member
I have gained control over root aphids organically.
After finishing a dissapointing flower cycle, with very few tricomes I cloned my veging plants.
Step 1: Get a good amount of pure neem oil, the best offer i found was on amazon $40 for 2 litres. Also potassium soap to bind the neem to the water. I use 2ml neem/litre water for folliar, and 4ml neem/litre water for soil drench. I soil drenched the veging plants 3 times before cloning. I also dust everything with Diatomaceous Earth after spraying, and before cloning.
Step 2: With the new clones in soil I will soil drench every 2nd watering with the neem. I find it best to drench when the lights come on, then you can feed/water the same day just before lights off. I ph- the neem/potass soap mix to ph6.5 for the drench as the potass soap raises ph a lot. Step 2 means the plant always have food accessable and can be left to completely dry before the next feeding.
Step 3: During flower I will keep spraying with neem upto 2 weeks before the end of flower, avoiding buds. Also I will keep doing the soil drench before every second watering when the lights turn on until 2 weeks before the end, always feeding later the same day before lights off.
This has completely controlled the root aphids for me. No more flyers at all, and the soil dwellers controlled. The quality of bud has gone back to exelent.
After finishing a dissapointing flower cycle, with very few tricomes I cloned my veging plants.
Step 1: Get a good amount of pure neem oil, the best offer i found was on amazon $40 for 2 litres. Also potassium soap to bind the neem to the water. I use 2ml neem/litre water for folliar, and 4ml neem/litre water for soil drench. I soil drenched the veging plants 3 times before cloning. I also dust everything with Diatomaceous Earth after spraying, and before cloning.
Step 2: With the new clones in soil I will soil drench every 2nd watering with the neem. I find it best to drench when the lights come on, then you can feed/water the same day just before lights off. I ph- the neem/potass soap mix to ph6.5 for the drench as the potass soap raises ph a lot. Step 2 means the plant always have food accessable and can be left to completely dry before the next feeding.
Step 3: During flower I will keep spraying with neem upto 2 weeks before the end of flower, avoiding buds. Also I will keep doing the soil drench before every second watering when the lights turn on until 2 weeks before the end, always feeding later the same day before lights off.
This has completely controlled the root aphids for me. No more flyers at all, and the soil dwellers controlled. The quality of bud has gone back to exelent.
StonerPoker
Member
I thought Merit 75 (imidacloprid) was the answer too. Until I found is that it contaminates the waste soil, and the plant with bee killing chemicals. I'm still trying to clean imidacloprid from my waste soil by mulching with waste food and mycellium. I don't see the point in using it any more, as I have controlled my root aphids just as well this time using only organic products.
Stoner, think about half-life. In certain soil conditions, imid's half-life is measured in "years". Which means any reclaimed soil will certainly have measurable imid residue. Which, can either be a "good thing" or a "bummer", depending on one's objective.
king oscar
Member
I read somewhere that 95%+ of the imidacloprid is translocated above soil after root drench. Not the best systemic to fight a root pest
topset1976
Member
I have been free of the little basterds for the past couple months. I found hitting them with evergreen 5% pyrethrin/botaniguard/Merit 75WP/Gnatrol combo in veg. i drenched the pots in a pyrethrin/merit combo and few days later drench with botaniguard/gnatrol. i also added that ground up shell stuff that I can't remember how to spell...diameiatous earth (pure guess on the spelling there lol). also i used my fogger to spray the entire veg room floor to ceiling with pyrethrin then shuttle O then azamax. I flower I only used botaniguard, d earth, gnatrol, and sprayed everything 3 weeks or less in flower with azamax. I haven't seen any gnats or aphids. I just saw a spider mite the other day but I got those bastards pretty well taken care of. thanks again for all the help. it wasn't fun and hopefully i never see them again. just a reminder to keep up on your regimen. Just when you think you will never get them again and you stop spraying is the moment they return with a vengeance!
