Rookie Aero Flo Grow Together
- Thread starter aerokrafter
- Start date
-OG
Looking Good! Good chart details - all that information will make your future runs even better. You can begin to see the patterns of growth and nute consumption. They get less hungry going into heavy flower - most nute schedules start pushing heavy nutes right when it does the plant no good, at the end. The heaviest nute use in the first 28 days, when the plant is busy building infrastructure. Kool Bloom helps push the nute mix to the PK side for flower production.
I like your magic carpet!
-AK
Looking Good! Good chart details - all that information will make your future runs even better. You can begin to see the patterns of growth and nute consumption. They get less hungry going into heavy flower - most nute schedules start pushing heavy nutes right when it does the plant no good, at the end. The heaviest nute use in the first 28 days, when the plant is busy building infrastructure. Kool Bloom helps push the nute mix to the PK side for flower production.
I like your magic carpet!
-AK
good info guys. I'm on day 29 of flower for a 2K SourD ibl grow. 18 plants, vegged in 3 gal smart pots of Promix for 7 days(no real vertical growth, mostly just to get roots) and they are just about done stretch at 33." they started at 4-6." the growth is about 3-5 days behind the growth shown above; I am hoping for 3-4 bows from this grow. there are also 3 coco plants off to the side, a chem D, StrawD, and a larger SourD ibl.
I will be watching this thread till the end, and when I am a little more flush with loot, I wanna do my own aero grow. It will be interesting to see where I am with this grow at the end(day75) in comparison with you guys. time will tell.
rbdf
I will be watching this thread till the end, and when I am a little more flush with loot, I wanna do my own aero grow. It will be interesting to see where I am with this grow at the end(day75) in comparison with you guys. time will tell.
rbdf
Day 42 Bloom Update
Unit:
Back Side:
Bud:
Bud Tip:
Data:
The dank funk undertone has joined the sweet aromas to create a nose tingeling, intoxicating smell.
The buds have thickened, and getting a "chemmy" fist giving you the finger look.
As always, your comments and questions are welcome.
-AK
Unit:
Back Side:
Bud:
Bud Tip:
Data:
The dank funk undertone has joined the sweet aromas to create a nose tingeling, intoxicating smell.
The buds have thickened, and getting a "chemmy" fist giving you the finger look.
As always, your comments and questions are welcome.
-AK
DetroitFarmer
Member
Hello everyone... sorry i have been absent lately... WORKING DAY AND NIGHT!!! However, my ladies are still looking lovely!! I still have to internet at the house so keeping up with this has proven tough.. I will have it soon and probably build and start another run with this thread..
I have gotten all the nutez AND the RO machine!!! Now if i can get the internet back too or time to get to the library i can document this better with all of you..
RF: I believe it was you that had a question about my aero that i built... I havent forgotten and i will take some pics and show you how i ran my lines...
TTYS
P.S. GO TIGERS!!!!
I have gotten all the nutez AND the RO machine!!! Now if i can get the internet back too or time to get to the library i can document this better with all of you..
RF: I believe it was you that had a question about my aero that i built... I havent forgotten and i will take some pics and show you how i ran my lines...
TTYS
P.S. GO TIGERS!!!!
oct 19
original participant here.
After complete wipeout of my first crop in the first week of flowering by some brown gooey snot looking stuff that we assumed was pythium, I was a little disappointed. I caught the issue early on and tried to fight it with all the recommended methods..bleach, physan, zone.
I managed to finally kill my plants but the slime lived on. (It is amazing how much bleach they can tolerate). Once, I used 32 oz bleach in a reservoir just to see if I could get rid of it for the next crop...still didnt kill it. I dont think pythium is supposed to live through that. Plants stayed alive for a while, so did brown gooey stuff. As far as I know this stuff may be here after the apocalypse.
So I decided to give it another try paying much more attention to hygiene and cleaning everything like crazy.
I used peroxide, physan and alcohol on every single piece. Took about 12 hrs. Then put the plants in the aeroflo 60 to veg for a week before going to bloom. I used 90 ppm tap water and followed the recipe exactly.
Today, the 7th day in the aeroflo they started getting the same clear slime which makes the roots cling together like a ponytail and eventually turns brown. I am a little more than disappointed this time. I poured about a half gallon of peroxide in the rez and came here to type so that I wouldnt destroy things on a massive level.
I saw aerokrafter mentioned a situation of high risk\high reward. I would also like to add that there is much higher level of pissedoffedness involved with failure after spending so much time, effort, energy and care of getting 60 plants to the size that I seem to always kill them(about 12 inches). It is a large scale version of the lesson I learned about plugging the areocloner back in after checking it repeatedly for roots.
Worst of all, to get these 60 plants, I cut all my mothers back to nothing. So now, after 2 failed crops...no weed....barely any mothers..and no money for upgrades. So much for RO.
I need to find a way to exactly identify it so I can figure out how to fight it. If it is pythium, Then someone tell me a guaranteed way to kill pythium...even if it kills the plants. They are going to die anyway.
I had a similar problem with the aerocloner before. I began using EWC tea and the problem went away. But that was at a different location.
If anyone has any suggestions about how to get rid of this slimey snot, I welcome all ideas.I am partially inclined to think it is some type of brown algae, but dont know for sure. I have a flood tray in a tent next to the aeroflo, using the same water and FloraDuo making beautiful buds. The aeroflo just seems to breed this stuff. I do use rockwool cubes to cut clones in, but I have made successful runs in the aero before with no probs.
I have already taken dozens of pictures but none could really show it. It is hard to take pics of shiny liquids with grow room lighting. I will try again tomorrow.
original participant here.
After complete wipeout of my first crop in the first week of flowering by some brown gooey snot looking stuff that we assumed was pythium, I was a little disappointed. I caught the issue early on and tried to fight it with all the recommended methods..bleach, physan, zone.
I managed to finally kill my plants but the slime lived on. (It is amazing how much bleach they can tolerate). Once, I used 32 oz bleach in a reservoir just to see if I could get rid of it for the next crop...still didnt kill it. I dont think pythium is supposed to live through that. Plants stayed alive for a while, so did brown gooey stuff. As far as I know this stuff may be here after the apocalypse.
So I decided to give it another try paying much more attention to hygiene and cleaning everything like crazy.
I used peroxide, physan and alcohol on every single piece. Took about 12 hrs. Then put the plants in the aeroflo 60 to veg for a week before going to bloom. I used 90 ppm tap water and followed the recipe exactly.
Today, the 7th day in the aeroflo they started getting the same clear slime which makes the roots cling together like a ponytail and eventually turns brown. I am a little more than disappointed this time. I poured about a half gallon of peroxide in the rez and came here to type so that I wouldnt destroy things on a massive level.
I saw aerokrafter mentioned a situation of high risk\high reward. I would also like to add that there is much higher level of pissedoffedness involved with failure after spending so much time, effort, energy and care of getting 60 plants to the size that I seem to always kill them(about 12 inches). It is a large scale version of the lesson I learned about plugging the areocloner back in after checking it repeatedly for roots.
Worst of all, to get these 60 plants, I cut all my mothers back to nothing. So now, after 2 failed crops...no weed....barely any mothers..and no money for upgrades. So much for RO.
I need to find a way to exactly identify it so I can figure out how to fight it. If it is pythium, Then someone tell me a guaranteed way to kill pythium...even if it kills the plants. They are going to die anyway.
I had a similar problem with the aerocloner before. I began using EWC tea and the problem went away. But that was at a different location.
If anyone has any suggestions about how to get rid of this slimey snot, I welcome all ideas.I am partially inclined to think it is some type of brown algae, but dont know for sure. I have a flood tray in a tent next to the aeroflo, using the same water and FloraDuo making beautiful buds. The aeroflo just seems to breed this stuff. I do use rockwool cubes to cut clones in, but I have made successful runs in the aero before with no probs.
I have already taken dozens of pictures but none could really show it. It is hard to take pics of shiny liquids with grow room lighting. I will try again tomorrow.
the_lonely_one
Member
bog, it sounds like cyano bacteria. physan 20 everything on cleanup, then make sure you light proof the res and other locations. That stuff was a nightmare when I got it. Made me switch back to organics, smartpots, and blu mats. There is a dedicated post on www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=224658 about the stuff
oldergrower
Member
Feed lines
Feed lines
DF, it was me that wanted to know how to setup top feed sprayers.
I understand sometimes things happen and would like to upgrade next run, approx 5 wks away. Thanks OG. PS good to see you back
Feed lines
DF, it was me that wanted to know how to setup top feed sprayers.
I understand sometimes things happen and would like to upgrade next run, approx 5 wks away. Thanks OG. PS good to see you back
DetroitFarmer
Member
OG
My bad... It's been so long I couldn't remember clearly... I will show n tell ASAP.. I'm probably gonna build a new and improved one soon anyways...
Problem:
Are fungus gnats always present in aero systems an how do I kill them?
My bad... It's been so long I couldn't remember clearly... I will show n tell ASAP.. I'm probably gonna build a new and improved one soon anyways...
Problem:
Are fungus gnats always present in aero systems an how do I kill them?
T
TREE KING
i got some minor root rot. ak heres a few pics so you know what im talkin about. i need to figure out how often to add zone at aggressive strength. 2 ml a gal every week isnt enough for me with res temps in the low 80's. is there anyone adding zone every 3-4 days? dont know how long this stays active in the res for. theres only a couple plants like this outta 32 but i dont want it to get outta control
Attachments
-TK
This needs to get fixed before you start generating root mats on the bottom of the root chamber. Pull off the brown bits - they will not recover and just make more food for fungi. Bump the Zone to 2.5 - 3 ml.
-AK
This needs to get fixed before you start generating root mats on the bottom of the root chamber. Pull off the brown bits - they will not recover and just make more food for fungi. Bump the Zone to 2.5 - 3 ml.
-AK
T
TREE KING
i understand. how often do you recommend to add it is the main question? every how many days?
Last edited:
I keep the Zone elevated from base level until the problem stops. I then go back to base at the next res change.
If I have a problem with a unit and I'm adding more ppm of Zone than usual, by default the ppm of nutrients goes down and this inhibits growth. So as soon as the problem is averted, I try to change out the res and get everything back on track.
For me its not a formula of how many days to add back Zone. I stick to base and biweekly res changes unless there is a problem. If there is a problem, I elevate Zone until its under control. I will change out a res completely if there is any question.
So - bump it up to contain the problem. Once its under control and the source of the problem identified - res change to base levels. If the problem returns, raise the base level of Zone until the source of the problem is resolved. Any time the res is going to be warmer than usual I bump my base from 50 ml to 60 as a preventative.
One other thing to check would be spray lines and drain tubes. These machines are all about dissolved O2. High DO prevents rot. If the throughput of the nutrient solution is not high enough - more rot happens.
I hope this helps. Please stay in touch on this. It can be very frustrating to get everything back in balance. Mystery critter problems are the worst. But once the battle is won, the plants will take right off again.
-AK
If I have a problem with a unit and I'm adding more ppm of Zone than usual, by default the ppm of nutrients goes down and this inhibits growth. So as soon as the problem is averted, I try to change out the res and get everything back on track.
For me its not a formula of how many days to add back Zone. I stick to base and biweekly res changes unless there is a problem. If there is a problem, I elevate Zone until its under control. I will change out a res completely if there is any question.
So - bump it up to contain the problem. Once its under control and the source of the problem identified - res change to base levels. If the problem returns, raise the base level of Zone until the source of the problem is resolved. Any time the res is going to be warmer than usual I bump my base from 50 ml to 60 as a preventative.
One other thing to check would be spray lines and drain tubes. These machines are all about dissolved O2. High DO prevents rot. If the throughput of the nutrient solution is not high enough - more rot happens.
I hope this helps. Please stay in touch on this. It can be very frustrating to get everything back in balance. Mystery critter problems are the worst. But once the battle is won, the plants will take right off again.
-AK
T
TREE KING
i know its just caused by not cleaning the system properly and running higher than normal res temps. what i was getting at is i was thinking if your having a problem its better to than always make sure the zone/chloramine is active in the res at least short term until the problem is totally gone. what your basically telling me is bump up the ml's but still only use it every 2 weeks. im doubting the chloramine is active even half that time so that means outta the 2 week period zone is only active for 3-5 days maybe? i was thinking it might be better to add it every 4 days or so until the problem is gone then switch to every 2 weeks for maintenance. just incase im gonna add 3 ml a gal every week. i appreciate the help and il let you know how everything turns out
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I don't know how long it persists for certain. Bump up the Zone. Once the problem stops getting worse, change out the res. If this is 3-4 days. so be it. I'd leave the Zone level slightly higher than base.
If I think the plants are in trouble, I have no problem swapping out the res. I found the two week scheduled res change to be the most efficient, but thats when everything is going right. If your plants dictate that to be too long, by all means change it to weekly.
Two bucks and a half hour is cheap.
I think we agree on all the major points. And better safe than sorry.
Best of Luck
-AK
If I think the plants are in trouble, I have no problem swapping out the res. I found the two week scheduled res change to be the most efficient, but thats when everything is going right. If your plants dictate that to be too long, by all means change it to weekly.
Two bucks and a half hour is cheap.
I think we agree on all the major points. And better safe than sorry.
Best of Luck
-AK
chiller?
rbdf
rbdf
ganjalfthegreen
Member
Hey guys...
Sorry if this has been asked already but why cleanIng products do you use for initial startup or regular maintenance?
Build is almost complete, but with our friends misfortune with the slime it was a real wakeup call to ensure that all preventative measures are taken.
Should I somehow sterilize the sprayers and lines even though they are new?
Just have to wait and see what the res temps will be once everything is up and running. New ac unit should help this time round...
Good work all and thanks for any input.
Sorry if this has been asked already but why cleanIng products do you use for initial startup or regular maintenance?
Build is almost complete, but with our friends misfortune with the slime it was a real wakeup call to ensure that all preventative measures are taken.
Should I somehow sterilize the sprayers and lines even though they are new?
Just have to wait and see what the res temps will be once everything is up and running. New ac unit should help this time round...
Good work all and thanks for any input.
