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REALSTYLES DIY CXB3590 TUTORIAL

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
I hate tables, instead I read the spec sheets and arrange things properly. What if there's a misprint? :)

@basehead
Depends on your growing area, in theory you need around 30-35W of cob light for a square foot, for metric people it's around 400W for a square meter.
If you used a 65W hans panel, go for two cxb3590(or 3070) and a 100W driver, so 50W for each cob, dimmable if you need less light.
For cooling I suggest cpu coolers with a large base like the Arctic 64 plus.
 

thebasehead

New member
Thanks guys for the quick and accurate answers :)
I think i'll go for two cxb3590 with the HLG-120H-C1050 .It sounds like a match from heaven
Now i'm wondering if to go 3000K or 3500K or 5000 , or one and one , or it won't matter at all with so much light LOL
i'm only flowering in that space
 

thebasehead

New member
i think i better go with the HLG-120H-C700 i'm afraid that the 1050 will be too strong , From what i understand you can dimm all of these driers to 1/2 strength , right ? or is it possible to go even lower with a different potentiometer?
 
@thebasehead, if using 72v cxb3590's then 700mA is fine. If using 36v then I'd go 1400mA dimmable. Your small space cxb3070s would be plenty and save you a few $. I like more potential power and dim to my liking. Look for a driver thats 1400mA and around 100-120 watts for 2 cobs.
Just my 2 cents.

Peace, Roast.
 

jesbuds

Member
i think i better go with the HLG-120H-C700 i'm afraid that the 1050 will be too strong , From what i understand you can dimm all of these driers to 1/2 strength , right ? or is it possible to go even lower with a different potentiometer?

If it's the B version it can dim all the way down to ~10% of the total amperage, now the LEDs may need more than that to turn on though.
 

thebasehead

New member
Great !! Thanks jesbuds :)
than B version it will be , i'm so afraid of getting stuff to hot in that small space i better have the control
 

jesbuds

Member
Yea if I were building my LED again I'd have probably bought one with higher amperage, not that my HLG-185-1400 isn't enough, just to have more to see and dimming down is easy. While building things, I'd use the dimming to turn power way down (~20-25%) for my early power on tests so if something nasty happened, it would hopefully not be as damaging to components. Also allowed me to gauge heat and such from parts for if I was adequately cooling things. When I finally did get up the nerve to pump it full blast, I already knew I was solid at the lower amperage so I could quickly turn it down if I saw problems and re-evaluate things.
 

jikko77

Active member
let me say 150w cob at 1400mA is a lot of heat in a 60*60*140 cm box, think ahead of the design.
and get a B version, way more easier to deal with.
 

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
GrowMau5 has a new YT video about a complete kit that anyone can buy, featuring small anodized heat sinks, saving a ton of money on aluminum
 
let me say 150w cob at 1400mA is a lot of heat in a 60*60*140 cm box, think ahead of the design.
and get a B version, way more easier to deal with.

Good point on the heat jikko. 2 36v cobs @ 1400mA would be 50.4 watts each at max power. So 100.8 watts max with 2 chips. With 3 chips you'd max at 150w. I use arctic 64 plus heatsink with fan (13$ on amazon) for each cob. Fans driven by mean well apv-12-12 (up to 4 fans). Keeping chips cool prolongs their life and improves lm/w. Hopefully your ventilation in cab is good as well. Been running mine at 20-30% and all my heatsinks and drivers stay cool to the touch. When maxed they get warm but nothing that my ventilation can't handle. My 4 chips maxed use 248w. So many choices and decisions to make. Not sure if color temp ? got answered but for flowering 3000k or 3500k is great. The 90 CRI chips have better spectrum and the 80 CRI chips have more lumens. So pick which option suits your situation. For your cab I'd go for spectrum as you'll have plenty of lumen density/saturation. Sorry for the rant.

Peace, Roast.
 

jikko77

Active member
a sum of 3500k can be used for both, veg and flow with very good result.
the chip and heatsink are fine, mind the heat from the driver, so far is the hotest stuff to deal with.

i did had some info on a price drop in some time, no idea if is true or what.

the growmaus kit are nice, very nice, but imho an arctic heatsink is a cheaper way and can deal with a lot of heat for a single chip, a lil' more than the 100w reported.
 
I would consider using (4) 3590 CXb3590, 36V, 3500K, CD bin $198, HLG-185H-C1400A Driver $67, with a 5.88" x 24" hear sink $48; or any mix 5.88" x6" per CoB. One 1400mm fan $15 with a 12/12 1W driver for fan $12, chip lok holders $15, reflectors $15. The unit is running at 49W per Cob making a 200W fixture dimmable to 100W. peace. check out my 200w fixture a four Cob CXA3590 for veg and a 400W CXB3590 for bloom. peace. god luck.
 
I think the most important to remember with using Cree CoB's is the CXA3590 and CXB3590 love to run at lower amperage, called running soft. The Cree can run at 2.8A and more, and deliver higher wattage, but at lower wattage, they deliver more lumens per amp, which is what plants love mist. it is not about watts or amps, but the overall power per foot or PPFD. A PPFD of 700 or more is good. It is the combination of light space dynamics, and power. it is not more power, but a balance of power and light referred to as efficiency. The better designs reside at the 56% to 64% efficiency. that means more CoB's and lower amps, but better production, overall. All of my lights are designed at the 56-64% efficiency range, lower operating cost and higher production with lower $/w
peace
 

jikko77

Active member
what AvidLerner said is true, that's why you won't run your cob higher than a certain value, lets say i.e. 1400mA.
going higher is possible, but is it convenient?

just my 2c
 
Driver matching guide

Driver matching guide

Thumbnail shows the options of drivers and CoB's that fit together. peace.
 

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