V
vonforne
conservative with that 3.25 bag of dolo aren´t we. lol
quick acting magnesum
- Thread starter wonderful
- Start date
hell my 50 lbs only cost $2
i used it mostly outside and figure to replace it and the oyster w/ crab meal for outside here on out
so crab meal and gypsum for those not following along
not even going to bother w/ $2 anymore ~especially where i m trying to alleviate soil compaction
i used it mostly outside and figure to replace it and the oyster w/ crab meal for outside here on out
so crab meal and gypsum for those not following along
not even going to bother w/ $2 anymore ~especially where i m trying to alleviate soil compaction
I paid $4 for a 40lb. bag 4 years ago and turned it all into the 3-way lime mix. I'm feeling ripped off man! That will be the last bag of dolomite I'll ever buy for cannabis.
thanks, so should i stay away from everything that says organic based?
why do you feel ripped off? that is litterally dirt heap, hell cheaper than dirt. did you not like the results?
V
vonforne
epic thats how i did too; oyster/dolo/gypsum
micro-amended!
same one I use also. can´t use it fast enough. lol
I have learnt from fruit tree growing that dolomite should be topdressed in winter and given 3 months to start to break down and then any fertiliser/mulch is added in spring time. Something to do with the elements working against each other if its added together.
I also still have a big bag full but am ultra cautious with it now. I can use it up on my trees and native acidic soil no worries. Mad Lib (member him) always said that dolomite is good for 3 years once added and that it can build up to toxic levels if used year after year...
Anyhoos i now have basalt rock dust and plenty of vermicast for my minerals plus all the plant derived goodness mainly - comfrey and kelp at the mo. Combine that with biochar to lock in more nutrients and microbes and the occasional molasses/vermicast act i must have my calcium and magnesium needs covered!
Sul-po-mag sounds good but not available here.
If i combined a bit of gypsum with some potash would i have sul-po-cal?
I also still have a big bag full but am ultra cautious with it now. I can use it up on my trees and native acidic soil no worries. Mad Lib (member him) always said that dolomite is good for 3 years once added and that it can build up to toxic levels if used year after year...
Anyhoos i now have basalt rock dust and plenty of vermicast for my minerals plus all the plant derived goodness mainly - comfrey and kelp at the mo. Combine that with biochar to lock in more nutrients and microbes and the occasional molasses/vermicast act i must have my calcium and magnesium needs covered!
Sul-po-mag sounds good but not available here.
If i combined a bit of gypsum with some potash would i have sul-po-cal?
V
vonforne
lmao
FunTimesIndeed
Member
Well, do you want an organic grow?
I guess you've reached your own conclusion about epsom salt and bone meal?
The dolomite top dress worked...only when it was wet....so I added more.. then it dried up and the symptoms returned...so I watered and it worked again...then it dried up and the same thing kept happening......lockout....all through the cycle...why? I thought Sunshine #4 was balanced man....soon I found I need more dolomites in there since it was obvious that the ph was acidic becuase the plants had such a 'cal/mag' deficiency..they were all locked out man. Know what I'm sayin'...
How do you tell that a plant has a calmg deficiency? I'm not using any lime in my soil mix this time [rock dust, pea gravel, oyster shell]. How come my vegetables don't get cal mg deficiency?
SilverSurfer_OG- what is basalt rock dust?
FunTimesIndeed- yes but i was kind of wondering w hat that actually meant and y it was such a misleading name.
o and yes i decided not to buy another bag of bone meal once mine is gone, and i have the impression that foilar feeding is fast acting, since it has been for me in the past, i already had the epsom salt laying around. once i get familiar with using it i will decide if i like it or not. experience is the best teacher
Gascanastan- you have to thouroughly mix the lime througout the soil for it to work properly, burn1 mentioned it to me in on of my threads
Microbeman- thanks for stoping by and asking a question i can help you with. when i look at my plant i search for leaves tht are not perfect green on a regular bassis and i advise you do the same, they will stick out clearly once you get accustomed to it. once i notice a symptom i research it here
http://forum.grasscity.com/sick-pla...ur-deficiencies-here-easy-learning-table.html
and here
http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html
once i fell like i know what i am dealing with i do nothing and monitor the progress of symptoms. once it takes upto 1/4rd of the plant is a clear sign that this is likely going to need addressing before harvest based on the stage of its life.
but if you look at my pictures and compare to the links you can see that the symptoms line up
FunTimesIndeed- yes but i was kind of wondering w hat that actually meant and y it was such a misleading name.
o and yes i decided not to buy another bag of bone meal once mine is gone, and i have the impression that foilar feeding is fast acting, since it has been for me in the past, i already had the epsom salt laying around. once i get familiar with using it i will decide if i like it or not. experience is the best teacher
Gascanastan- you have to thouroughly mix the lime througout the soil for it to work properly, burn1 mentioned it to me in on of my threads
Microbeman- thanks for stoping by and asking a question i can help you with. when i look at my plant i search for leaves tht are not perfect green on a regular bassis and i advise you do the same, they will stick out clearly once you get accustomed to it. once i notice a symptom i research it here
http://forum.grasscity.com/sick-pla...ur-deficiencies-here-easy-learning-table.html
and here
http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html
once i fell like i know what i am dealing with i do nothing and monitor the progress of symptoms. once it takes upto 1/4rd of the plant is a clear sign that this is likely going to need addressing before harvest based on the stage of its life.
but if you look at my pictures and compare to the links you can see that the symptoms line up
Last edited:
Dolomite lime is/was really used for one thing...balancing the ph of peat and acid soils. .
it's unlikely that you'll overdose anything with dolomite
You should never have to add more lime on a re-amend unless adding more peat. Try adding a calcium carbonate source instead of dolomite and see what happens.
after re reading all the responses again for about the third time i now understand right on what you are saying with the soil needing calcium carbonate.
it finally makes scene, i had to forget what the beginner guide thread said, and even stated by burn1 to me; the dolomite lime will provide cal/mag.
hmm i guess i will no longer re amend with the lime. but how long am i alright for? one person said 3 years on is fruit trees......
ill get some oystershells and start saving my egg shells. how much should i use per gallon when amending?
kelp meal is something of a wonder amendment
crab meal is worth looking in to as well NTM gypsum {which fluffs things up}
as far as all those Ca sources; i like to run all that stuff through the compost pile {then feed that to the worms} the resulting vermi-compost should be the only 'amendment' you need
but IRL sometimes a little neem seed meal will save the day
and kelp meal is fine for a top dress or re-amend
bedding is the stuff you lay down to build up your pile you usually want some straw or even some small branches ~basically something high carbon so it wont break down so fast and aerates your pile
different for worm farming where a layer of worm castings makes a good bedding
crab meal is worth looking in to as well NTM gypsum {which fluffs things up}
as far as all those Ca sources; i like to run all that stuff through the compost pile {then feed that to the worms} the resulting vermi-compost should be the only 'amendment' you need
but IRL sometimes a little neem seed meal will save the day
and kelp meal is fine for a top dress or re-amend
bedding is the stuff you lay down to build up your pile you usually want some straw or even some small branches ~basically something high carbon so it wont break down so fast and aerates your pile
different for worm farming where a layer of worm castings makes a good bedding
FunTimesIndeed
Member
Basalt is a black volcanic rock. Pulverize it and you've got basalt rock dust.
They say organic-based because they can't say organic. It would be like when something is based on a true story. There is no middle ground on this one. Being organic is like being pregnant; there's no mostly.
