prelude91sir
Member
i have been using it along with promix for the first time. I cant say exactly what is doing it. but these our the healthy fastest growing(like hydro) sbbx3 in the last 4 years ive been growing it. one thing that got me on the pura vida cause its suppose to be fast acting like a mineral based fert but its organic. Cause of the extra fermentation process they take it through And of course its all organic and they paid for the certification. I wanted hydro like results but in soil well soiless. I was gonna use 50/50 pura vida/pbp which i did once using the veg nutes. but gonna go pura vida all the way at least during flowering. again im sure its several things that factor in, but i can honestly since a few days after the transplant into the promix i see noticeable growth every single day veg or flowering.
montehierba
Member
GREAT FOR THOSE ORGANIC FARMERS LIKE MYSELF WHO LOVE TO ADD MORE FLAVOR TO THE GARDEN,DEFENETLY A PLUS+
Citizen024
Member
Thought I would share what I have experimented and gotten to run quite well. Sorry no pics at this time, but they will show up sooner or later here. Killing it is all I can say.
I am more towards the organic end, and Pura Vida is unique. At long last I have found the Holy Grail of organic nutrients: available, drip line friendly, potent, and ph stable'ish. I am seeing Pura Vida perform *organically* as well if not better then Pure Blend Pro, H & G, Canna- which are high end lines which rock, are user friendly (and not so flexible and costly) that require various additives to work properly. Basically they are synth at heart with organic and synth boosters around a synth chem backbone. They all work very well, and I LOVE Pure Blend Pro personally. I do use Magical and know it is not organic. It is however, the only non organic thing in my garden. The day there is a easy consistant organic cal mag I am there!!! Yes i could do it with Calplex, epsom- but at my garden size it isn't practical. Still working on the exact nutrient dial in, I'll share what has been solidly blowing it up.
SYSTEM-----------------------
I use run to waste Botanicare block coco-30/40% large chunk perlite handwater/drip system. 30% run off. Got a MDT-1 precision timer to the seconds to run my pumps. 4x4's under 1000's with 24 Perfect Pots per tray. 2 drippers per pot. Trellis's have been built, but not being used due to mite fight.
STRAINS-------------------------------
Deep Chunk x NC Afgoo-sometimes mislabled as DC X Strawberry Cough. Incredible!!! Very medicinal; great breeding. Really helps with my condition. Calming, very potent, yet very functional and no brain fog what so ever.
The Grapefruit - thats just a nickname- I don't think it's the real one but a random pheno from seed- it's insane!!! Uplifting with superior flavor.
Fairly dialed in and efficient environment- humidity is a bit of a trick as I am near the coast, so I have to always be on the look out for PM. This round been trading off with a few pesky spider mites, too, but they are about to meet Mr. Floramite for the second time, then a couple rounds of bombs. B*tchhes. They don't have a foothold, and I cannot let them get established. The end.
About to turn on CO2. Been having humidity issue requiring venting. Hopefully go it dialed today!!!
NUTRIENTS---------------------------
Outside of coco or soil run to waste system I wouldn't use this formulation. Recircing organics leads to trouble one way or another. Pura Vida and Pure Blend Pro (not 100% organic) are some of the only drip friendly things out there:
VEGETATIVE:
My veg is CHEM, yes, it is. .it's just so much easier to do coco/30-40% chunky perlite in ebb and flow trays: 5 inch containers for more root mass, vegging to 15-17"s. RO water.
3 Part GH (250-300ppm Mirco, 120-150ppm Bloom, 100-150ppm Grow). I have been playing with adding a little extra Magi-Cal (30-50ppm). I am still working out the right amounts, so if anyone has any input, I'd love to hear it. Good old GH. I might go to House and Garden Coco's for simplicity.
Then add: 50ml/gal Vermi-T (organisms), 2-5ml/gal EJ Catalyst, and occassional 6-8ml/gal Cannazyme; once a week foliar of 15ml/gal Rhizotonic (w/Zone/Penetrator to fight PM if needed). Might sulphur as well, but have not to date. I will add about 30-50 ppm of Magi-Cal or Cal Mag about 3-4 days into the res, and I keep it fairly topped off with RO.
I really feel it is not worth setting up a complicated organic system simply for vegging. Keepin it simple and user friendly. I feel I could substitute H & G, Canna or Pure Pro Grow (even drop most the additives) and it would all be about the same in the end I think. GH just offers me a lot more control/flex then any of those A/B two part formulas. Gotta watch the K, keep low on Grow.
TRANSPLANT---------------------------
Transplant with 8ml/gal Thrive Alive and GH three part for 3 days (300ppm Mirco, 300ppm Bloom, 100ppm Grow). Vermi-T 50ml/gal (about to start brewing my own organisms at home for cheaper), Cannazyme 6ml/gal.
RO Water.
Foliar Canna Rhizotoninc at transplant and 3-5 days later. I add Zone/Penetrator if I am fighting any PM.
FLOWERING--------------------
Then for the rest of Flowering I go almost completely organic. I use a number of additives, and am sure I could not use quite so many, but why fix it if it ain't broken? Most of them are fairly cheap too:
WATER: 50% RO- 50% ~220ppm tap. I mix till it's at 120-180ppm. Helps keep my ph stable, as PV is very acidic. There is good minerals in it too, just don't want too much. Near the end I sometimes go 100% because they drink so much, and by that point it's not as critical to control the feed. Gotta be water conscious and conserve the RO waste.
*Magi-Cal (100-150 ppm, shoot for 120ppm. Start cutting it out around week 5-6, out completely by week 7.)
*Pura Vida Grow/Bloom (600-900ppm for MY system. Caution with this stuff, you can overdo it. It might get up to 1100 at the height of heavy bloom, depends) at different ratios. 50-50% at first, with more towards Bloom after week 3-4, 75-100% Bloom for the week 5-6. Pura Vida is a very unique nutrient and being experienced with chemicals and organics helps when using PV as it has qualities of both. It is as available as a chemical nutrient (though I still believe in having a good mircoherd for a variety of reasons). Organic growers may not be used to that availability and can cook thier plants thinking they have buffering. Like an organic it doesn't do well recirculated; so if your trying to just substitute it into a typical hydro system it will run amuck on you. Ph can also shift and be hard to stabilize if you add air/stirring. Notice my usage rates are also much lower then Technaflora bottles say; it can totally burn you!!!
*Sugar Daddy(7ml/gal- 110ppm- can raise higher if desired).
Sweet/Sugar Daddy adds mag so I am cool once I start to cut out Magical/Cal-Mag around week 6. I have used Sweet, and just switched to Sugar Daddy to see how it does, and I didn't want the berry flavored added to it that Sweet does. Also has sulphur for flavor.
*EJ Catalyst (2-5ml through out the cycle). I am old school and I just like this stuff, it's super cheap and I have a fetish for using it in everything. It helps me balance ph often (acidic that will rise over time)- especially is I use 100% tap.
*Budswel Tea (10-15ml/gal) for weeks 5-7. Prrety sure it's got a good doseof sulphur in it, you can smell it. Sulphur= flavor. I am sure there is other good stuff too.
*Foliar Nitrozyme (0-4-4 sea kelp extract flower booster) a couple times through the cycle. Sometime during week's 2-6 in general.
*Vermi-T week 2, and 4. Organisms keep us safe and assure availability.
I am considering using Pure Flowers Organic 0-30-20 super bloomer week 6 or 7, but have been hesitant. Need to also compare it to Kool Bloom powder. Need to do a small test batch before I decide what to use on a regular basis. I know it can knock the yields up for sure.
FLUSHES: with Flora Kleen or whatever that new GH flushing stuff is (much more concentrated and cheaper then Clearex- check it out, $20 a gal and only need 5ml/gal instead of an oz.- works just as good IMO) once at week 3, 6, and 8 via the drip system to clean it out. I can hand water RO too in addition if I am really needing to flush.
Just water for week late week 7 and 8, may add molasses or maple syrup. Citric acid can be fun too. My research has revealed that citric acid, sugar, and sulphur are three of the key flavor additives that can actually be taken up directly by the plant.
PH CONTROL AND WATERING/FLUSHING---------------------------
I use EJ Catalyst to down my ph much of the time rather then ph down, though I have used down and think it fine. Catalyst is even cheaper then down believe it or not. It's just a nice way to handle it completely organically and let me add more Catalyst in. It is so weak nutrionally I have no worries about over dosing it- it is perfectly fine to use lots of it. Pura Vida likes to rise so we have a nice ph meeting here with an acidic additive. They both help eachother out, as otherwise I would have to use a whole lot of up to use both of them.
I mix 55 gallon barrels. I have a pump in the bottom that comes on before waterings to mix it up, but otherwise I let it sit. Try to go through it all in about 3 days. The mix's ph will climb if bubbled, and will climb at a slower rate if stirred all the time. I tend to start the ph low, around 5.2-5.6. I let it rise to about 6.2-6.8. The Technaflora rep told me you can let it go from 5-7 since it is organic and has a more a flexible range. Then make my only correction (usually, but not always) after a day or 2 and bring it down again with Catalyst. Because I let it rise, now with I water with the more acidic 5.2-5.6 and it will balance into about the 5.8 range in the medium. From there on out I just let it rise up to 6.8, and usually finish the res off before it gets all the way up. Now when I mix the new res, it comes in at 5.2-5.6 again and meets the higher ph, etc., etc.
Through out the cycle I will use a water wand to hand water at least once a week. Stops salt build up. The drip provides the precision no human can achieve, the hand watering is more thorough then any drip system can hope to be. Sometimes I use nutrient, sometimes just clean water, it all depends on the ladies.
FINAL THOUGHTS---------------------------
I have been moving away from any chem nutrients in general in flowering- but not using them ever at some part of the grow is really really difficult in hydro. Organic, or organic boosted chems have always done better for me then just chems. Been there done that and did great years ago- I almost immediately then added stable organic additives to help it along (hence my love for EJ Catalyst and Pure Blend Orginal). Then went to PB Pro when it first came out. Rocket sauce for sure. Now I am just raging it with Pura Vida as my backbone and still using many of my favorite additiives. No need for a bloom booster though; Pura Vida really does deliver enough nutrient. H&G, Canna, PB and many more definately need one though. I could just as easily switch to one of them as the backbone instead of the PV, but the build of the entire system is specifically set up to able to run organic.
It's fairly easy with little room for error the way I am using it- not always the case when it comes to organic systems. Stable, high output, and organic are words that don't often go in the same sentence. I want that organic quality of soil with hydro growth/yield. It is possible, but it has taken me years of tinkering to perfect the techniques and requires attention to detail. I have studied a ton and experimented a lot, even worked at a shop part time for a couple years a good long time ago and really got hands on with just about everything out there. It took a lot of working with all kinds of organics, soil, chems, various hydro mediums (God bless coco!!!) and methods; I could do almost anything but this is the system i choose. The only other method that interests me is Bio-Buckets- that is some dope shit, hands down and almost no one is doing it. The way I do things is not for everyone, I get that.
I am happy: works really really well, environmentally friendly, superior quality and growth rates. Blows soil away in yeild/speed, and identical in quality. Very clean in the end.
It's a lot of reading, I type fast. Thanks for making it through it all. I WELCOME feedback, input, dialogue and comments!!!!! Let's help each other prosper.
I am more towards the organic end, and Pura Vida is unique. At long last I have found the Holy Grail of organic nutrients: available, drip line friendly, potent, and ph stable'ish. I am seeing Pura Vida perform *organically* as well if not better then Pure Blend Pro, H & G, Canna- which are high end lines which rock, are user friendly (and not so flexible and costly) that require various additives to work properly. Basically they are synth at heart with organic and synth boosters around a synth chem backbone. They all work very well, and I LOVE Pure Blend Pro personally. I do use Magical and know it is not organic. It is however, the only non organic thing in my garden. The day there is a easy consistant organic cal mag I am there!!! Yes i could do it with Calplex, epsom- but at my garden size it isn't practical. Still working on the exact nutrient dial in, I'll share what has been solidly blowing it up.
SYSTEM-----------------------
I use run to waste Botanicare block coco-30/40% large chunk perlite handwater/drip system. 30% run off. Got a MDT-1 precision timer to the seconds to run my pumps. 4x4's under 1000's with 24 Perfect Pots per tray. 2 drippers per pot. Trellis's have been built, but not being used due to mite fight.
STRAINS-------------------------------
Deep Chunk x NC Afgoo-sometimes mislabled as DC X Strawberry Cough. Incredible!!! Very medicinal; great breeding. Really helps with my condition. Calming, very potent, yet very functional and no brain fog what so ever.
The Grapefruit - thats just a nickname- I don't think it's the real one but a random pheno from seed- it's insane!!! Uplifting with superior flavor.
Fairly dialed in and efficient environment- humidity is a bit of a trick as I am near the coast, so I have to always be on the look out for PM. This round been trading off with a few pesky spider mites, too, but they are about to meet Mr. Floramite for the second time, then a couple rounds of bombs. B*tchhes. They don't have a foothold, and I cannot let them get established. The end.
About to turn on CO2. Been having humidity issue requiring venting. Hopefully go it dialed today!!!
NUTRIENTS---------------------------
Outside of coco or soil run to waste system I wouldn't use this formulation. Recircing organics leads to trouble one way or another. Pura Vida and Pure Blend Pro (not 100% organic) are some of the only drip friendly things out there:
VEGETATIVE:
My veg is CHEM, yes, it is. .it's just so much easier to do coco/30-40% chunky perlite in ebb and flow trays: 5 inch containers for more root mass, vegging to 15-17"s. RO water.
3 Part GH (250-300ppm Mirco, 120-150ppm Bloom, 100-150ppm Grow). I have been playing with adding a little extra Magi-Cal (30-50ppm). I am still working out the right amounts, so if anyone has any input, I'd love to hear it. Good old GH. I might go to House and Garden Coco's for simplicity.
Then add: 50ml/gal Vermi-T (organisms), 2-5ml/gal EJ Catalyst, and occassional 6-8ml/gal Cannazyme; once a week foliar of 15ml/gal Rhizotonic (w/Zone/Penetrator to fight PM if needed). Might sulphur as well, but have not to date. I will add about 30-50 ppm of Magi-Cal or Cal Mag about 3-4 days into the res, and I keep it fairly topped off with RO.
I really feel it is not worth setting up a complicated organic system simply for vegging. Keepin it simple and user friendly. I feel I could substitute H & G, Canna or Pure Pro Grow (even drop most the additives) and it would all be about the same in the end I think. GH just offers me a lot more control/flex then any of those A/B two part formulas. Gotta watch the K, keep low on Grow.
TRANSPLANT---------------------------
Transplant with 8ml/gal Thrive Alive and GH three part for 3 days (300ppm Mirco, 300ppm Bloom, 100ppm Grow). Vermi-T 50ml/gal (about to start brewing my own organisms at home for cheaper), Cannazyme 6ml/gal.
RO Water.
Foliar Canna Rhizotoninc at transplant and 3-5 days later. I add Zone/Penetrator if I am fighting any PM.
FLOWERING--------------------
Then for the rest of Flowering I go almost completely organic. I use a number of additives, and am sure I could not use quite so many, but why fix it if it ain't broken? Most of them are fairly cheap too:
WATER: 50% RO- 50% ~220ppm tap. I mix till it's at 120-180ppm. Helps keep my ph stable, as PV is very acidic. There is good minerals in it too, just don't want too much. Near the end I sometimes go 100% because they drink so much, and by that point it's not as critical to control the feed. Gotta be water conscious and conserve the RO waste.
*Magi-Cal (100-150 ppm, shoot for 120ppm. Start cutting it out around week 5-6, out completely by week 7.)
*Pura Vida Grow/Bloom (600-900ppm for MY system. Caution with this stuff, you can overdo it. It might get up to 1100 at the height of heavy bloom, depends) at different ratios. 50-50% at first, with more towards Bloom after week 3-4, 75-100% Bloom for the week 5-6. Pura Vida is a very unique nutrient and being experienced with chemicals and organics helps when using PV as it has qualities of both. It is as available as a chemical nutrient (though I still believe in having a good mircoherd for a variety of reasons). Organic growers may not be used to that availability and can cook thier plants thinking they have buffering. Like an organic it doesn't do well recirculated; so if your trying to just substitute it into a typical hydro system it will run amuck on you. Ph can also shift and be hard to stabilize if you add air/stirring. Notice my usage rates are also much lower then Technaflora bottles say; it can totally burn you!!!
*Sugar Daddy(7ml/gal- 110ppm- can raise higher if desired).
Sweet/Sugar Daddy adds mag so I am cool once I start to cut out Magical/Cal-Mag around week 6. I have used Sweet, and just switched to Sugar Daddy to see how it does, and I didn't want the berry flavored added to it that Sweet does. Also has sulphur for flavor.
*EJ Catalyst (2-5ml through out the cycle). I am old school and I just like this stuff, it's super cheap and I have a fetish for using it in everything. It helps me balance ph often (acidic that will rise over time)- especially is I use 100% tap.
*Budswel Tea (10-15ml/gal) for weeks 5-7. Prrety sure it's got a good doseof sulphur in it, you can smell it. Sulphur= flavor. I am sure there is other good stuff too.
*Foliar Nitrozyme (0-4-4 sea kelp extract flower booster) a couple times through the cycle. Sometime during week's 2-6 in general.
*Vermi-T week 2, and 4. Organisms keep us safe and assure availability.
I am considering using Pure Flowers Organic 0-30-20 super bloomer week 6 or 7, but have been hesitant. Need to also compare it to Kool Bloom powder. Need to do a small test batch before I decide what to use on a regular basis. I know it can knock the yields up for sure.
FLUSHES: with Flora Kleen or whatever that new GH flushing stuff is (much more concentrated and cheaper then Clearex- check it out, $20 a gal and only need 5ml/gal instead of an oz.- works just as good IMO) once at week 3, 6, and 8 via the drip system to clean it out. I can hand water RO too in addition if I am really needing to flush.
Just water for week late week 7 and 8, may add molasses or maple syrup. Citric acid can be fun too. My research has revealed that citric acid, sugar, and sulphur are three of the key flavor additives that can actually be taken up directly by the plant.
PH CONTROL AND WATERING/FLUSHING---------------------------
I use EJ Catalyst to down my ph much of the time rather then ph down, though I have used down and think it fine. Catalyst is even cheaper then down believe it or not. It's just a nice way to handle it completely organically and let me add more Catalyst in. It is so weak nutrionally I have no worries about over dosing it- it is perfectly fine to use lots of it. Pura Vida likes to rise so we have a nice ph meeting here with an acidic additive. They both help eachother out, as otherwise I would have to use a whole lot of up to use both of them.
I mix 55 gallon barrels. I have a pump in the bottom that comes on before waterings to mix it up, but otherwise I let it sit. Try to go through it all in about 3 days. The mix's ph will climb if bubbled, and will climb at a slower rate if stirred all the time. I tend to start the ph low, around 5.2-5.6. I let it rise to about 6.2-6.8. The Technaflora rep told me you can let it go from 5-7 since it is organic and has a more a flexible range. Then make my only correction (usually, but not always) after a day or 2 and bring it down again with Catalyst. Because I let it rise, now with I water with the more acidic 5.2-5.6 and it will balance into about the 5.8 range in the medium. From there on out I just let it rise up to 6.8, and usually finish the res off before it gets all the way up. Now when I mix the new res, it comes in at 5.2-5.6 again and meets the higher ph, etc., etc.
Through out the cycle I will use a water wand to hand water at least once a week. Stops salt build up. The drip provides the precision no human can achieve, the hand watering is more thorough then any drip system can hope to be. Sometimes I use nutrient, sometimes just clean water, it all depends on the ladies.
FINAL THOUGHTS---------------------------
I have been moving away from any chem nutrients in general in flowering- but not using them ever at some part of the grow is really really difficult in hydro. Organic, or organic boosted chems have always done better for me then just chems. Been there done that and did great years ago- I almost immediately then added stable organic additives to help it along (hence my love for EJ Catalyst and Pure Blend Orginal). Then went to PB Pro when it first came out. Rocket sauce for sure. Now I am just raging it with Pura Vida as my backbone and still using many of my favorite additiives. No need for a bloom booster though; Pura Vida really does deliver enough nutrient. H&G, Canna, PB and many more definately need one though. I could just as easily switch to one of them as the backbone instead of the PV, but the build of the entire system is specifically set up to able to run organic.
It's fairly easy with little room for error the way I am using it- not always the case when it comes to organic systems. Stable, high output, and organic are words that don't often go in the same sentence. I want that organic quality of soil with hydro growth/yield. It is possible, but it has taken me years of tinkering to perfect the techniques and requires attention to detail. I have studied a ton and experimented a lot, even worked at a shop part time for a couple years a good long time ago and really got hands on with just about everything out there. It took a lot of working with all kinds of organics, soil, chems, various hydro mediums (God bless coco!!!) and methods; I could do almost anything but this is the system i choose. The only other method that interests me is Bio-Buckets- that is some dope shit, hands down and almost no one is doing it. The way I do things is not for everyone, I get that.
I am happy: works really really well, environmentally friendly, superior quality and growth rates. Blows soil away in yeild/speed, and identical in quality. Very clean in the end.
It's a lot of reading, I type fast. Thanks for making it through it all. I WELCOME feedback, input, dialogue and comments!!!!! Let's help each other prosper.
fine post & outstanding info.
gonna spend some time on this later.
gonna spend some time on this later.
What a thorough post Citizen. Thank you. You seem to have a system I'd like to try
QUOTE Citizen: Outside of coco or soil run to waste system I wouldn't use this formulation. Recircing organics leads to trouble one way or another. :
Hmmmm.. My rig is set to re-circulate. I would have to run to waste. I had thought that this would wash away organisms, but I guess the point is that are all living in the coco
QUOTE Citizen: Outside of coco or soil run to waste system I wouldn't use this formulation. Recircing organics leads to trouble one way or another. :
Hmmmm.. My rig is set to re-circulate. I would have to run to waste. I had thought that this would wash away organisms, but I guess the point is that are all living in the coco
Citizen024
Member
News: Pure Vida lost the OMRI. New labels simply say Pure Vida, the word organic is gone, as is the OMRI logo. Rumor is that they have some sort of nitrate that they (and other organic companies) were somehow getting away with.
So much for that route to organic. . puts it in about the similar catagory as Pure Blend Pro. Funny how N is the downfall or organic formulas.
So much for that route to organic. . puts it in about the similar catagory as Pure Blend Pro. Funny how N is the downfall or organic formulas.
Here's a line that has OMRI (unless they loose their cert too)
Nature's Nectar is the world's first all natural certified organic nutrient that is compatible with hydroponics, soil, coco gardening and drip irrigation. Nature's Nectar has also been approved by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) for food crop production. This ensures that this concentrated formula and its components are certified organic. Nature's Nectar is the leading natural organic nutrient in commercial food and fruit production. Nature's Nectar solution contains no sediment and has been manufactured so all nutrients are instantly available to your plant. Nature's Nectar, for exceptional growth, quality and yield. Please view www.organaponics.com for amazing photos, test results and detailed information for this exceptional line of products.
Guaranteed Minimum Analysis is Nitrogen (N) 5.0%.
Advantages:
Completely solublized, instantly available source of nitrogen with no sediment.
13% of the formula contains 21 free amino acids.
Provides nutrition for beneficial bacteria improving conditions of growing medium.
Increases photosynthesis for a greener plant.
HOBBY APPLICATION
We have conducted our own tests with Nature's Nectar as well. We grew tomatoes in a Home Box using a 1000 HPS light system in a 4" Yield Master reflector. The container is an Autopot. The amount of fruit produced was simply amazing! The tomatoes were the best tasting, most flavorful tomatoes we have ever had. Nature's Nectar, is a revolutionary introduction to hobby gardening. We guarantee you will be thrilled with the results of this 100% organic, OMRI listed, fertilizer program.
Nature's Nectar is the world's first all natural certified organic nutrient that is compatible with hydroponics, soil, coco gardening and drip irrigation. Nature's Nectar has also been approved by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) for food crop production. This ensures that this concentrated formula and its components are certified organic. Nature's Nectar is the leading natural organic nutrient in commercial food and fruit production. Nature's Nectar solution contains no sediment and has been manufactured so all nutrients are instantly available to your plant. Nature's Nectar, for exceptional growth, quality and yield. Please view www.organaponics.com for amazing photos, test results and detailed information for this exceptional line of products.
Guaranteed Minimum Analysis is Nitrogen (N) 5.0%.
Advantages:
Completely solublized, instantly available source of nitrogen with no sediment.
13% of the formula contains 21 free amino acids.
Provides nutrition for beneficial bacteria improving conditions of growing medium.
Increases photosynthesis for a greener plant.
HOBBY APPLICATION
We have conducted our own tests with Nature's Nectar as well. We grew tomatoes in a Home Box using a 1000 HPS light system in a 4" Yield Master reflector. The container is an Autopot. The amount of fruit produced was simply amazing! The tomatoes were the best tasting, most flavorful tomatoes we have ever had. Nature's Nectar, is a revolutionary introduction to hobby gardening. We guarantee you will be thrilled with the results of this 100% organic, OMRI listed, fertilizer program.
durtygrowa
Member
hey guys, I have a question. Im using pura vida bloom, cal-mag, nd sum floralicious plus in a dwc set up nd was wondering how much puravida bloom i should use per gallon. Any advice would b greatly appreciated.
Citizen024
Member
I do mine by ppm. With my Hanna meter, I run about only about 300-500ppm. I am in run to waste coco though. Generally speaking run to waste uses about 30% less nutrient then is typical in a recirc system.
I have seen Pura Vida not do well in recirc systems, how has your been doing?
I have seen Pura Vida not do well in recirc systems, how has your been doing?
durtygrowa
Member
I dont use a recirculating setup. So u r saying I should go about 300-500ppm nd add my cal-mag do u use the cal mag also nd how much r u using?
Citizen024
Member
Durty- go read my tread on Pura Vida, all the info you want in there. Yes- CalMag or MagiCal from about 120-200ppm depending on your water source.
durtygrowa
Member
thx citizen I really appreciate u for this.
-dg
-dg
Here's the skinny on the OMRI certification from Pura Vida:
you have been informed correctly. It was always our intention to produce a high quality certifiable organic plant food. And while we remain confident in the quality standards and usability of Pura Vida Organics, we are no longer confident that our manufacturing process is in compliance with recent policy changes in organic certification standards. We are working tirelessly to address this situation and look forward to re-certification in due time.
Although at this time Pura Vida will not be OMRI listed, the immediate feedback and overwhelming support from our entire network was unanimous and clear; regardless of certification the market's desire for this product remains strong. Confidence in Pura Vida is high and with proper explanation and education the temporary removal of the OMRI stamp will have little impact.
New product labels without the OMRI logo have been produced and are now making there way to the stores.
Citizen024
Member
Funny thing is, whatever it is they have in there that is not organic, they still don't list it on the ingredients. Nothing changed on that part of the label. They "appear" to organic if you where to go only by ingredients.
I saw boric acid on there, but that is boron- wonder if that is considered organic or not. Could be actually- citric is.
I did hear from a rather good rumor source that is it some form of nitrate that several organic companies have been using- but OMRI changed the catagorization of that ingredient, so they are SOL.
Might even be its part of a process which is deemed non-organic, it may not even be an ingredient that does it.
I saw boric acid on there, but that is boron- wonder if that is considered organic or not. Could be actually- citric is.
I did hear from a rather good rumor source that is it some form of nitrate that several organic companies have been using- but OMRI changed the catagorization of that ingredient, so they are SOL.
Might even be its part of a process which is deemed non-organic, it may not even be an ingredient that does it.
I talked with them during the expo...
The issue with Pura Vida has nothing to do with the fertilizer or the source of nitrogen...the issue is with omri. When omri changes standards midstream, it is going to have an affect a lot of organic products, not just pura vida. Omri recently changed several standards, the first one is really nit picky...
1.OMRI now states that you cannot mfr any omri approved products within 100 meters of mineral salt products.
2. Pura Vida uses fermentation/digestion/active microbial breakdown process that omri doesn't recognize yet....yet.
Pura Vida is ahead of the curve...using new technologies that need precedents before final approval by omri...
The issue with Pura Vida has nothing to do with the fertilizer or the source of nitrogen...the issue is with omri. When omri changes standards midstream, it is going to have an affect a lot of organic products, not just pura vida. Omri recently changed several standards, the first one is really nit picky...
1.OMRI now states that you cannot mfr any omri approved products within 100 meters of mineral salt products.
2. Pura Vida uses fermentation/digestion/active microbial breakdown process that omri doesn't recognize yet....yet.
Pura Vida is ahead of the curve...using new technologies that need precedents before final approval by omri...
durtygrowa
Member
I was wonder n could u use the lucas formula with the pura vida?
-dg
-dg
CannaDestroyer
Member
durtygrowa - 2ml per gal. grow, and 10ml per gal. bloom works out to be very close to lucas formula.
Pura Vida Lucasized:
N-112
P-103
K-191
Cal - 0
Mg - 21
edit: added cal/mg amounts, as dirty grower points out in his next post a source of cal/mg will be needed with nutes.
Pura Vida Lucasized:
N-112
P-103
K-191
Cal - 0
Mg - 21
edit: added cal/mg amounts, as dirty grower points out in his next post a source of cal/mg will be needed with nutes.
durtygrowa
Member
thanks cannadestroyer, could that be done with just the bloom alone? Nd wouldnt u have 2 put magi-cal n because of no calcium?
-dg
-dg
