Proper maturity for an Ace sativa - ignore the trichomes?
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Riddleme
Member
Plants don't really care about lumens which is a measurement for humans, plants prefer PAR, but most members here prolly know that LOL
they are Oracle High Bays (6 bulb, I have 3 of em) rated at 30,000 lumens, so with 3 I have 90,000 lumens but that is most likely reduced by the UVB bulbs (which don't have a lumen rating, but were designed to penetrate 3 feet of water)
I use pll tubes in addition to LED. I try to keep the tubes within 2 inches or closer to the buds. You have your system dialed in I guess but I notice the lights are well away from the tops.
Also, the UVB cfl I use only puts out 150 uw at 10 inches away. That is the minimum to affect the cannabinoid profile. I have that light within 2 inches from nearest bud.
Also, the UVB cfl I use only puts out 150 uw at 10 inches away. That is the minimum to affect the cannabinoid profile. I have that light within 2 inches from nearest bud.
Riddleme
Member
I do things way different than what you learn in forums.
I am very anal about mimicking Mother Nature so I do not use a tent, nothing is sealed, my grow area is wide open space in a 500 sq ft room (basement) I have never owned a carbon scrubber, my plants never stink. I pay attention to things that most don't consider, right now my ambient room temp is 77 and my canopy is at 90 my root zone is at 68 you can't do this in a sealed room or tent as the temp fluctuations are tighter. Not to mention natural Barometric Pressure which plants respond to and is altered in a sealed room with a intake/outtake scrubber setup. I use flat white paint not to reflect light but rather to reflect heat (mylar absorbs heat and holds it) Most growers fight heat I use it as a tool to get the plants in full vigor.
Times have changed, 40 years ago I used T12 grow lights and incandescents for heat. The T5's are much easier to dial in LOL
This is what my garden looks like this morning ,,,,,
and yeppers, sometimes the sats grow into the light LOL
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Waldgeist
Active member
Riddleme, I've never said this before but why not start a thread? your approach is, interesting.
Riddleme
Member
Thank you, I may very well do that when things settle down. At the moment I am trying to spread the early amber knowledge around, have put it in several forums so folks can find it. Back in the 70's we saw a lot more of it but now it seems to missing from all the places trying to spread MJ info.
I am currently working on a book that details my research and experiments. The chapter on early amber is finished and is posted here for free http://growhappyplants.com/look.html I contacted High Times and they decided not to print anything on it, the reason I was given was my pics are not hi res enough, really not sure what to think about that but it is what it is so I have been on this mission to spread it around, looking for threads where it is appropriate. I'm not pimpin the book, all the info is available online if one were to look, I have shared it for years on various forums like RIU and Jorges site plus I run my own forum (but it is invite only) my first book The Road to a Cure is there with each chapter a thread and discussion afterwards which worked out pretty good wrote it in 2011.
Once this mission is completed I would prolly enjoy doing a grow journal here, though I am used to getting slammed a lot for things I say and do. Lot of folks keep tellin me I should change to HPS lol which is nothing I would ever do. A lot tell me that there is no way that buds under flouros are better than HPS I just laugh, I had 3 people last week tell me my buds were better than dabs
I guess my point is that I'm not sure I'm ready to jump back in to the constant debate that seems to happen when I post my stuff. But I'm thinkin about it ,,,,,,,,,,
Riddleme
Member
Riddleme, I like your contribution, but Mylar is one of the most effective reflectors of heat there is. It's used as thermal blankets for hypothermia. Would be kinda strange if it actually would absorb heat from the victim, wouldn't it?
not true at all, works as a thermal blanket because it absorbs heat from light, not from body mass. Here is a ditty I wrote awhile back on it ,,,,,,
Ever read the debate over Mylar or Flat white paint ? which is best and why?
here is a very deep look into it that most growers are unaware of,,,
most growers only look at reflective properties ,,,
Mylar: 90% to 95%
Flat White Paint: 85% to 93%
Semi Gloss White Paint: 75% to 80%
Flat Yellow Paint: 70% to 80%
Aluminum Foil: 70% to 75%
Flat Black Paint: less than 10%
with the best flat white paint being Titanium Dioxide
most growers do not consider refraction or diffusion properties but these do matter somewhat
The refractive index of Mylar is 1.5 ~ 1.52
from here,,,
http://www.cidraprecisionservices.co...yethylene.html
The refractive index for Titanium Dioxide is 2.55 ~ 2.73
from here,,,,
http://www2.dupont.com/Titanium_Tech...s_Brochure.pdf
and then there is the thing that no growers consider Emissivity
the definition of Emissivity is ,,,
Emissivity is defined as the ratio of the energy radiated from a material's surface to that radiated from a blackbody (a perfect emitter) at the same temperature and wavelength and under the same viewing conditions.
a basic primer for Emissivity can be found here,,,
http://www.electro-optical.com/eoi_p...Is+Emissivity?
The Emissivity of Mylar is .59
The Emissivity of Titanium white paint is .92
from here,,,,
http://www.electro-optical.com/eoi_p...of%20Materials
This is why the Leprechaun uses flat white paint
Not saying white paint is bad, in fact it's much cheaper and more practical than mylar I imagine. However the emissivity numbers you are quoting highly depend on the (optical) thickness of the films used, be it the mylar or how thick your layer(s) of paint turn out. Also the (micro)structure of the paint surface has a huge impact on heat emission. So you cannot compare these numbers just like that. And to finish it off, radiation is still only one component in the heat transfer in your grow room; convection is also important if not dominant.
Riddleme, you seem to be one of those people that beg to have their own way of doing and explaining things, and that's fine. But, please, don't talk nonsense in authorative manner, it's laughable
Why Mylar is chosen for thermal blankets and why NASA invented it in the first place (to reflect heat) is on the first lines of Wikipedia. There's no point in arguing with that.It's out of the scope of this thread but the reason Mylar is better than white paint in almost all (if not all) cases is exactly because effective emissivity you bring forth depends a lot on the surface, and you have to bring flat surface (no cavities on micro level) to paint with titanium dioxide in order to match Mylar (which has nicely flat reflecting surface). Finding such surfaces to paint your white paint on might be harder and more expensive than finding Mylar
Your topic about early amber is interesting though! Right now I have outdoors an Ace Haze x Thai in very early flowering and its trichomes are just starting to become of visible size yet most of them are already slightly amber. I saw this today and was wondering if the cold weather we have now is speeding the maturation of the trichomes.
Riddleme
Member
Riddleme, you seem to be one of those people that beg to have their own way of doing and explaining things, and that's fine. But, please, don't talk nonsense in authorative manner, it's laughable
It's out of the scope of this thread but the reason Mylar is better than white paint in almost all (if not all) cases is exactly because effective emissivity you bring forth depends a lot on the surface, and you have to bring flat surface (no cavities on micro level) to paint with titanium dioxide in order to match Mylar (which has nicely flat reflecting surface). Finding such surfaces to paint your white paint on might be harder and more expensive than finding Mylar
Your topic about early amber is interesting though! Right now I have outdoors an Ace Haze x Thai in very early flowering and its trichomes are just starting to become of visible size yet most of them are already slightly amber. I saw this today and was wondering if the cold weather we have now is speeding the maturation of the trichomes.
I guess, call me a comedian then lol, my stuff is based on experiments, never made a claim without a side by side In my garden flat white paint blows the doors off mylar and I would chose white poly over mylar even if we want to get into nitpicking pores.
there are also several post in several forums on the web where growers have changed from mylar to something else and reduced their heat by 10 to 15 degrees but what do I know?
Had a peek at your link.
It has been shown (too lazy to search the publication out again, but you should find it on pubmed or sciencedirect) that the 'amber pigment' is some sort of minor discolouration not related to cannabinoid degradation. So nothing new here.
It is true that nowadays high resolution for printing is mandatory but may also serve as an excuse. It's not up to me to criticise others writing skills but I can understand why HT didn't want to print your book. Besides, as you state yourself, the things you put together can be found on the internet... I wouldn't want to print such an article either.
Anyway, don't stop having your own opinion and more importantly, don't stop sharing it. Screw those who tell you to shut up and HT isn't the world either
.Just my two cents.
Unless your side by side grow experiments where all the same clones from the same mother keeper plant then they are void in my opinion. In order for any conclusive evidence everything has to be exactly the same.
As far as mylar goes my 5f x 5f tents which all have 100% mylar everywhere never go above 80 degrees with only a single 6000 BTU AC which was only 120 bucks. I also only use 2 of the intake openings on each tent, they each have 4. The more intake you have the cooler it will be in your room/s. Mylar will achieve the greatest results yield wise, hands down. If one is having trouble with heat there are better ways to go about lowering heat then what one would lose due to the mylar lose.
Riddleme
Member
always do my side by sides with clones from the same plant, The forum says I'm a noob because I just joined here but I have growing for over 40 years
and I'm not dealin with heat I'm using it as a tool in my garden
