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Powdery Mildew Rx for flowering plants?

Gold123

Member
hey gold, i belive mark6666,or something like that has a thread on pm and zone,penatrator,i mix 10ml zone and 3tsp peneatrator per gallon,i make about 10 gallons and dunk plants,from top to soil.i think the penatrator allows the zone to be systemic i dont sulfer my plants just the room. RIP DR JAY

The Penetrator label reads 60ml(4tbls) per quart; that would be 16tbls or 48tsp per gal, or 240 ml/gal

If what your using works great.
 

sneakinman13

Active member
Veteran
heyy pps... welllll i thought i got rid of the PM but i was wrong....
its been 3 dunks and 2 sprays later and its starting to come back... its not out of control or anything but it's def spreading ... so im picking off all infected leaves and and gonna do another spray with the zone&penatrator ..... anyone else having this problem?? solution?

humidity is at 35 percent.night temp is 70, day temps 77 i have tons of fresh air coming in and exausting. regular fans on 24/7

help!
 

Sparky 6

Member
I've sprayed twice so far and yeah it comes back. Thought I read that it'll take a while to eliminate the PM from the plant for good with this method. If this doesn't work I'm going to try Eagle 20EW that I learned about from this thread.
 
Is that 15% to 20% of "3%" H2O2 that you spayed on your girls before you cut them down?

Thanks for everything Krunch. I'm using Eagle on my Juveniles but I have a harvest that I'm bringing down that has some PM. Please let me know what you'd do Bruthah!
 

Gold123

Member
years ago, when i didnt know about eagle 20 and even before sulfur burners, i had big time trouble with powder mildew.

so, before i would harvest, i would spray hydrogen peroxide at a 15-20% strength and drench the entire plant. wait 5 minutes and them put the plant in front of a huge fan to dry it off. then i would just trim the plant normally and the powder mildew was completely gone! there was absolutely no hint of it at all! good luck!

I was wondering the same thing as SickBoyZap about the 15-20 %
h2o2, I never use higher than 3% h2o2 right out of the bottle
 

Sparky 6

Member
Well the Zone/Penetrator worked on all my plants except the worst one which I am tossing out today. Too bad too since it's over 2' tall and very strong. Would have loved to see the harvest.

With that one out though all is good in my garden and I can treat with the Zone as a preventative and I'll probably get some neem oil too.
 

mark6699331

Active member
This is the thread sticky fingers. Read the beginning of it. And you got the dosages all wrong. It's 3 to 5 ml of zone. And FULL STRENGTH penetrater, now called saturater causes of the "pc" implications, lol. The penetrater gets the zone (cl3 and coper sulfate among others) into the cells themselves and kills the hyphae of the pm before it flowers into what we call the "poweder" of the mold. The powder is just the babie spores. By that time, it's too late. Do it while they show no signs. Reread the beginning of this thread. It's all spelled out. And we tried it all and this is the only one that works. 33 thousand views and all the testimony says it all!
 

mark6699331

Active member
Sparky 6 "don't use neem" it will mess with the flavor if not kill the plant outright. REread the thread. You can dunk plants up till the day or two b4 harvest. You just have to use the right ratios. I have plants that looked like flour was sprayed on them come back in one day if the right ratio is used. GO up to 10ml if need be on the zone but no more. THe trick is really using the full strength pentrater. Without it, the zone controls, but doesn't "systemically" eliminate it. That's the key. Killing it for good. I've never had a plant i couldn't save with that combo. And it's been years now since i've even seen pm after eraticating it!
 

Sparky 6

Member
I didn't end up tossing it out- just couldn't do it. I trimmed the affected leaves and now though it looks something like the Peanuts Christmas tree it has more hope than in the garbage.

I did read the thread Mark thanks. This is my first grow and I just didn't want the risk of getting the other plants infected but it looks like I'm taking that risk anyway. The leaves that remain look good and the plant is thriving. Treating it the way I am I will be surprised if the mold returns.
 

mark6699331

Active member
Oh you guys are helpless. Just re-read the thread from the beginning in it's entireity. We tried all that shit before. NOTHING eraticates it SYSTEMICALLY but the zone/penetrater combo i mentioned. And for you newbies and youngings (good for you for growing that makes me happy), but wikipedia words like systemic and hyphae and study the growing cycle of powder mildew from a college botany textbook for a more indepth understanding. Some of the other alternatives people use fool people into thinking it's gone, but it's not. Just temporarily. Don't you want to kill it FOREVER??? Sulfur-yuck! I'd never use sulfur unless in early veg. And even then. What en extreme measure when three dips three days apart in the correct ratios of these products will systemically kill it. Billygoat will you weight in here? Thanks Mark and it's Mark6699331 not Mark66666. I'm not into evil shit. Just the goodness of a god's green plant which eleiviates suffering in many people's lives, is non-addictive (physically) and barely addictive psychologicall, (unless you have a pre-dispostion to having an addictive personality, and then "maybey), and is non-toxic. Meaning no matter how much you consume, you will probably "pass-out" before you could ever get to the stage where it would be physically lethal. Unlike every other schedule one drugs that is. It should definetely be down graded to a schedule two or three imho, if not legalized for adults outright. Luckily, i live in a medical state, and having severe disabilities am able to use it as a medicine without persacution. Now please give these products a try before throwing every other method under the sun out as a suggestion. IF you READ the thread from the beginning, you'd see we've discussed all these methods before several times over and guess what; they worked to no avial. It always came back and your out your current and future crops. Not to mention, the dangers of smoking mildewed plants covered in spores which lodge in your lungs. Great for AIDS, cancer, and otherwise immunocompromised medical patients. It can kill them. Just cause you can't see it with the naked eye, doesn't mean the hyphae of the living mold isn't thriving on the celluar level. Get out a microscope and take a closer looksie with your own eyes. I had a friend who had to goto the hospital and have his lung drained from a fungal infection from trimming pounds of pm herb and smoking it over the course of a week. And believe me, he was in a lot of pain. Not fun having a tube sticking out your lung draining fungal shit and secondary infectious materials. Seen it first hand. Why take a chance. Don't pass this scourge onto others. Almost all the clubs pass off good looking cuts actually infected with pm. It just doesn't express itself until the conditions are correct. Usually flowering or humidity. Whatever. That's why i'm a big fan of seeds. Start fresh. No bugs, viruses, molds etc. And never bring anything anyone gives you into the room. And if you do quaranteen it at another location for several months and treat it accordingly. I've seen pm spores float across households and infect everything. Ok folks-there's my rant for the day. I'd like to see some more testimonials like eariler in the thread of people praising how well this method worked for them. Cheers, Good Growing.
 

mark6699331

Active member
Oh and good luck sparky6- try the 3 to 10ml zone and full stength penetrater. Dip the entire plant into like a small trash can. Whatever size needed for the size of the plant. Dip three times lets shake. Make sure all stems leaves etc are covered with the solution real good. I use my hands and lightly grasp the leaves and the whole plant and stroke it gently while its inside the buket to make sure it's completely soaked. Do this three times. Let dry not under a light. Wait three days-reapeat. Do this process three times to all plants even the non-looking infected ones. You'll never have pm again. It's instantaneous. It kills it immediately. The 2nd and 3rd dippings are for spores in the environment that might hatch. THose dippings kill the hyphae as they are trying to invade the cell membrane and establish themselves. Best time to kill them, before they "root" themselves in the cell walls and suck the plant of energy. I read somewhere that for every square inch of infected leaf material (keep in mind that doesn't mean white leaf, but infected, the white is the babies not the mold) you lose a directly proportional amount of energy the cells can produce through cell division and reproduction (overall growth). So it's a bigger deal than most people think. It WILL increase harvest, as well as, the vigor of the plant by eradicating the infection. The plants love the dip. It's like taking the chains off thier mitochondria. LOL. It's slightly harsh on them, but the benefits so outweight the negatives, you can see the plants respond in vigor and energy in the leaf growth and overall health look of the plant. Drop the 25 bucks for the penetrater. The zone takes so little a bottle will last you a lifetime basically. The penetrater now called saturater is a miracle surfactent, imho. Never seen anything like it. Worth every penny. Wish i had invented it. Good luck all.
 

sneakinman13

Active member
Veteran
its already been said in this postt. but im in week 6 of flower and up until this point i was dunking with the zone and pen combo... now i just spray with 90% water and 10% milk...
if your pm problem isnt horrible then this will help you... its def working on my grow....

good luck everyone
 
wow, great read and info guys! on my third indoor grow and just spotted PM the other day. gonna spray w/ milk and water first today and tomorrow then see what it looks like. if it hasn't gotten better, i'll buy the dm zone and penetrator.
 

Gold123

Member
wow, great read and info guys! on my third indoor grow and just spotted PM the other day. gonna spray w/ milk and water first today and tomorrow then see what it looks like. if it hasn't gotten better, i'll buy the dm zone and penetrator.

Unless you are very lucky at some point you will need it, so having it on hand would be most beneficial. After a while if you grow season to season you will acquire an arsenal of different items that you will need from time to time. Whenever I run out of something I find useful I always replace it even if I don't need it at the present time. I do this because inevitably when you need something the most the store is out of it and you have to wait for an order which may or may not come until it's too late.
 

Sparky 6

Member
Alright well I did end up having to throw out that one plant despite treating it with the DM. Zone/Penetrator worked great on all my plants but one- that's a good percentage. And the one was so freakin over-run with it.

Plan to use it as a preventative from now on for future plants.
 

Gold123

Member
I've heard sulfur burner in veg kills it before it hits flower. don't forget by the time you SEE it its already gone through its life cycle and those are the babies. So just cause you don't see it, doesn't mean its not there infecting plants.

For flower, I've found that dunking the plant for a second or two in dutch master's zone (10ml/gallon) and dutch master's penetrator (accord. to instructed dilution) fries the shit right out of the plant- or disinfects it, I should say. Spray with water the next couple days and no residue I could notice and it was gone for over two weeks. Only thing I've found that WORKS in flower- and my opinion, BTW is that serenade sucks-it actually made it worse. I'd go sulfur in veg, dutch master zone in flower, get a dehumidifier. And dunk every 3-5 days for two weeks to break the 5-7 reproductive lifecycle of p.m. A hepa air filtration system will filter out spores in the air.
I've spent lots of time and $$ contemplating this one.

good luck-
-M

oh also look for pm on plants outside your grow. It loves blackberry bushes. Often it will HIDE outside and then pop inside after you've sprayed. OR vice versa -its a very sneaky complex fungi for sure.

Mark hope your still following or someone else may have the answer.
I pulled some ladies out to chop and found some pm hiding, took care of that with h2o2. Can I dunk remaining plants in the last week of flower or so? Then how many rinsing spray downs do I need to do?
I thought it was all gone but it's sneaky hiding where you can't see it.
I'd rather dunk than spray and miss it again.
 

Yesca73

Member
im 2 weeks away from harvest and have PM. does not seem real bad. last week i sprayed it down with Ed rosenthal fungicid spray. the next day i hit it with sulfer burner for 1hr and again the following day for 1hr. still noticed a few spots. what should i do? i didnt realy want to use sulfer burner so close to harvest but had a buddy who used it 2weeks from harvest also and said he couldnt taste it in finished product.was thinking of getting DM zone(already got penatrator) and spraying then hitting it 1 more time with burner. my room is 5x5 . Em i not leavin the burner on long enough? exhaust and intake closed. lights off. cant dunk plants too big 4'
help save my casey jones and chem sis
 

Sparky 6

Member
im 2 weeks away from harvest and have PM. does not seem real bad. last week i sprayed it down with Ed rosenthal fungicid spray. the next day i hit it with sulfer burner for 1hr and again the following day for 1hr. still noticed a few spots. what should i do? i didnt realy want to use sulfer burner so close to harvest but had a buddy who used it 2weeks from harvest also and said he couldnt taste it in finished product.was thinking of getting DM zone(already got penatrator) and spraying then hitting it 1 more time with burner. my room is 5x5 . Em i not leavin the burner on long enough? exhaust and intake closed. lights off. cant dunk plants too big 4'
help save my casey jones and chem sis

The Zone is what I would go for, and if I were you I'd stop the sulfur this close to harvest. A treatment you can use until the Zone gets there is high Ph water with baking soda, mixed and sprayed onto leaves. That will work, others recommend hydrogen peroxide but I've never tried that before.

Good luck and keep us updated.
 
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