I was bad mouthing potassium bicarbonate man, I call green cure baking soda. Was stoned sorry.
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Powdery Mildew questions?
- Thread starter JamesFarmer
- Start date
I was bad mouthing potassium bicarbonate man, I call green cure baking soda. Was stoned sorry.
Listen to the guy about the water. I saved a whole crop spraying 8.3 tap water three times a week but that was not perpetual. I only did it for ten days and it saved my unaffected leaves and kept it off my buds.
I may get some shit but like the other guys said e-20 the shit out of the veg room, imho.
I may get some shit but like the other guys said e-20 the shit out of the veg room, imho.
PM problems are not only due to lack of Ca, you can have all the Ca in the world, but if your metals are not properly balanced, most especially Mn, Zn and Cu against Fe and Al.... you will get PM. Si it turns out is also extremely useful in promoting increased immunity. A good seaweed product from early on as part of a regular foliar program also goes along way in developing thicker cell walls as it helps maximizes calcium uptake. A good seaweed source with good cytokinin levels multiply root tips. Plants can only pick up calcium from root tips. So the multiplication of root tips multiplies calcium pickup sites.
Everything usually goes just fine until something changes. And the only constant in life is change.
Maybe this was one of those cosmic lessons that you were ready to learn....
Peace
Everything usually goes just fine until something changes. And the only constant in life is change.
Maybe this was one of those cosmic lessons that you were ready to learn....
Peace
The concept here is that the tea has a high concentration of microbes. When these are sprayed onto leaves they populate the surface of the leaves to such an extent that invading pathogenic microbes can’t take a hold. The good tea microbes out compete the potentially bad ones.
For this to work, the sprayed on microbes would need to colonize the leaves (ie live and breed on the leaves). This requires that the new environment, ie the leaf surface, has enough food for them and the oxygen levels are right for them.
Clearly, the oxygen levels would be high and so you can expect that anaerobic microbes would die out quickly. Anaerobic tea just won’t work.
What people might be seeing is higher ph is controlling it not eradicating it .
So its a control method if anything because kombachi is alkaline
So it will be uncomfortable for the germinated spores but the dormant spores are just waiting for the right environment to germinate again
The native microbes on plant surfaces are not well understood. There are anywhere from 1 to 10 million microbes on each 1 square centimeter of plant. Nobody knows what happens when more microbes are sprayed onto the leaf.
I can’t help wondering why the large number of naturally occurring microbes can’t out compete the potentially bad ones and yet the ones sprayed on in the tea will do this??
PM is a disease only way to truly get rid of it is by getting rid of the plant .
because it will always show its ugly face.
Slip,
Anaerobic biology sprayed on folliage does prevent certain fungus from proliferating. This has long been studied and demonstrated using EM1 to make anaerobic teas. I did it for many years on organic bananas in Costa Rica. We had to spray ever 6 to 10 days and we could keep off black sigatoka quite successfully.
The concept is called biological exclusion. Sort of like I sit down in your chair and you have no where to sit. We documented this with a great plant pathologist from the Univ of Arizona if I am not mistaken (this is some 18 years ago).
Lots of Oregon growers that suffer through rain make it quite successfully without PM or bud rot just getting their nutrition right.
Everything is relative to ones experiences. Those that have never seen such control in their own operations have a hard time believing that other folks can achieve such control. High nitrates in alkaline environments from worm castings and composts happens more than you might want to believe and is just as problematic as nitrate from a chemical source in promoting PM.
Anaerobic biology sprayed on folliage does prevent certain fungus from proliferating. This has long been studied and demonstrated using EM1 to make anaerobic teas. I did it for many years on organic bananas in Costa Rica. We had to spray ever 6 to 10 days and we could keep off black sigatoka quite successfully.
The concept is called biological exclusion. Sort of like I sit down in your chair and you have no where to sit. We documented this with a great plant pathologist from the Univ of Arizona if I am not mistaken (this is some 18 years ago).
Lots of Oregon growers that suffer through rain make it quite successfully without PM or bud rot just getting their nutrition right.
Everything is relative to ones experiences. Those that have never seen such control in their own operations have a hard time believing that other folks can achieve such control. High nitrates in alkaline environments from worm castings and composts happens more than you might want to believe and is just as problematic as nitrate from a chemical source in promoting PM.
Jidi,
We (Orch and I) had a long conversation about the Ca/K ratio, I (we) agree completely.
When I get back to my office, I will scan some works from Dr. Huber book on disease and nutrition, regarding PM and metals, most specifically Mn and Cu. I will post it in the library and let you know when it is there.
All that Mn woowoo from AEA you guys dump on saves your butt and makes for some amazing plants haha. Everyone seems to love the stuff.
Just like Fausts BioAg product with Fe/Mn at 1:1 hahahaha... folks rave over that one too. Folks are going to go into shock when the realize that manganese sulfate is much cheaper and works just as well for much less money, if applied correctly and in the right quantities with the right frequency.
I'm sorry but if you look on remedies to rid PM it appears most agree to go to a high alkaline solution meaning anything over 7 PH preferably 8.0
"IF" you would have had the chance to been involved in any Moonshine making or such operations, which would have also covered the making of cultured products, then you maybe would understand better what is going on in the environment, which provides the Fungus and Yeast to Live!
In a natural setting the conditions need to become Acidic first for the Fungus and Yeast to be able to start growing and multiply!
As long as the environment of the media in which the Fungus and Yeast spores are , is of enough Alkaline in Nature , then these Fungus and Yeast spores will not grow!
You may prove this by using a pH tester and checking the pH of the media in question, and you will find that as long as the pH is high enough that the Fungus and Yeast will not Grow and or Multiply!
So it is "ONLY" when the body becomes Acidic enough, that then you may have Fungus and Yeast problems!
Example ,if you may have Fungus problems on your feet, you may get rid of this very easily by soaking your feet in 3% Hydrogen Peroxide several times, for this will raise the pH enough in your feet, that the fungus will just up and leave!
And the use of a good Quality ACV will raise the pH also, because of the Alkaline Minerals which it may carry and supply, it is not the Acidity of the ACV which is doing the solving of the problem, for you may take an acid by it's self without any Alkaline Minerals in it and you will not get Positive results, like you may get with Top Quality ACV!
So, not everything may be as it may first seem to be, as is the case most of the time!
Moral of this story: You may be better to not jump to conclusions and make Claims about how things work, especially when you Lack understandings of the Basic processes of Nature!
When people talk about calcium in this equation there really talking about the calcium that neutralizes acidity
I'm sorry but if you look on remedies to rid PM it appears most agree to go to a high alkaline solution meaning anything over 7 PH preferably 8.0
"IF" you would have had the chance to been involved in any Moonshine making or such operations, which would have also covered the making of cultured products, then you maybe would understand better what is going on in the environment, which provides the Fungus and Yeast to Live!
In a natural setting the conditions need to become Acidic first for the Fungus and Yeast to be able to start growing and multiply!
As long as the environment of the media in which the Fungus and Yeast spores are , is of enough Alkaline in Nature , then these Fungus and Yeast spores will not grow!
You may prove this by using a pH tester and checking the pH of the media in question, and you will find that as long as the pH is high enough that the Fungus and Yeast will not Grow and or Multiply!
So it is "ONLY" when the body becomes Acidic enough, that then you may have Fungus and Yeast problems!
Example ,if you may have Fungus problems on your feet, you may get rid of this very easily by soaking your feet in 3% Hydrogen Peroxide several times, for this will raise the pH enough in your feet, that the fungus will just up and leave!
And the use of a good Quality ACV will raise the pH also, because of the Alkaline Minerals which it may carry and supply, it is not the Acidity of the ACV which is doing the solving of the problem, for you may take an acid by it's self without any Alkaline Minerals in it and you will not get Positive results, like you may get with Top Quality ACV!
So, not everything may be as it may first seem to be, as is the case most of the time!
Moral of this story: You may be better to not jump to conclusions and make Claims about how things work, especially when you Lack understandings of the Basic processes of Nature!
When people talk about calcium in this equation there really talking about the calcium that neutralizes acidity
Have you tried it or are you talking out your ass like normal
I have sprayed days before harvest with a 20% milk solution (and no Serenade) and got across the finish line. What is milk? Mostly water with a goodly dose of proteins, carbohydrates, nice family of acids, and enzymes. Things we buy in other products, but at prices that are exponentially greater.
After spraying until dripping, I see no reason to rinse or shower the milk off the plant, as the plant will absorb all the goodness. Of course any overspray will need to be cleaned (floor, walls, etc)...or else pitui, stinky smell will come and and then eventually go away.
The lactic acid, enzymes and fats are believed to provide the magic fungicide properties and the conclusions of many studies indicate that raw milk is superior to many chemical fungicides.
Bonus benefit, the buds I sprayed all appeared to appreciate the "foliar food". Within a day all appeared perky, regained their color and looked more healthier than those not sprayed--you can see the results almost immediately. Maybe the PM spores deprived the buds of something and the milk replaced it...don't know. But I did not observe any degradation in the buds.
And no, you will not get a "white mustache" after smoking weed sprayed with milk...lol.
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