Plants dying overnight

[gaiusmarius]

in the end the stage of ripeness is a personal thing, some people like the high from milky trichs, while some want more amber trichs. personally i like to go till most people consider it over ripe. as i'm growing ecsd and sd riri i have a 80 to 90 day 12/12, so i go the full 90 for the best yield and the hardest couch lock high i can get.

of course in a situation such as this, i would take them early before i risk losing em all. also if a plant is wilting from stem rot and the buds are not moldy, i would still use the buds. i would just make triple sure the buds are clean. maybe break some buds up and look at the stem inside of the buds too, but if no rot visible, why waste? you can cook or make topical if it's too early to be tasty to smoke.

 

[issack]

in the end the stage of ripeness is a personal thing, some people like the high from milky trichs, while some want more amber trichs. personally i like to go till most people consider it over ripe. as i'm growing ecsd and sd riri i have a 80 to 90 day 12/12, so i go the full 90 for the best yield and the hardest couch lock high i can get.

of course in a situation such as this, i would take them early before i risk losing em all. also if a plant is wilting from stem rot and the buds are not moldy, i would still use the buds. i would just make triple sure the buds are clean. maybe break some buds up and look at the stem inside of the buds too, but if no rot visible, why waste? you can cook or make topical if it's too early to be tasty to smoke.

Wow.. 80 to 90 days of flower.!! You have a lot of patience.. I have always ran fast strains and pulled at 55 60 days. I'm just impatient.. and in my situation now I've not been able to go very far. Lots of changes in the next run for sure. And yes these are getting chopped early unfortunately. I'll be doing some inner bud checking for certain.

Has anyone heard of actinovate
Organic fungicide.? Might start using this in my rez as well.



Actinovate SP is a high concentration of a patented biennial bacterium on a 100% water soluble powder. This powerful new product effectively suppresses/controls a wide range of soil borne diseases including Pythium, Phytophthora, Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, Verticillium and other root decay fungi. Actinovate SP is also labeled as a spray application for foliar diseases (when applied as a spray) such as Powdery and Downey Mildew, Botrytis, Alternaria and others. In fact, when used as a preventative, researchers have seen Actinovate SP work as well or better than most chemicals. The benefits of Actinovate SP don't stop there: Because of the special properties of the Actinovate microbe, plants treated with Actinovate SP will be vigorous, have increased vitality and have much better root growth. Actinovate SP contains the microorganism Streptomyces lydicus strain WYEC 108. When introduced into the soil this microbe colonizes and grows around the root system of plants. While settling in the root's rhizosphere, the microbe forms a relationship, feeding off of the plant's waste materials while secreting beneficial and protective by-products. This combination of the colonization and the protective secretions forms a defensive barrier around the root system of the plant which in turn suppresses and controls soil pathogens. S. lydicus also has been shown to prey on certain pathogens, disrupting their cell walls and disabling them in the process. Finally, the by-products of the Actinovate microorganism also aid plants in complexing minerals and micronutrients found in the soil, allowing easier uptake and, thus, creating a stronger, more robust plant. This symbiotic relationship between the plant and the microbe is the optimum balance for a natural, productive soil environment. Actinovate SP makes it happen.

 

[Junk]

I have always ran fast strains and pulled at 55 60 days.

I have never had a strain finish at 55 lol. It's usually 70. Converting to hydro, I started to see that when I grow the same cut as the soil people, it takes me 10 days longer. Someone posted a thread about it, "DWC buds finishing behind soil" or similar.

But yea, almost any strain, I'm 65+. I have no idea why. I never directly compared with a side by side of soil/hydro. But I was soil before, and switching to hydro added 10 days to the strains I had. It was roughly a 20% bump in yield.

I will stay with hydro bc for me, it's significantly easier. But with hydro and co2, I yield about 30% more than soil & no co2. +/- 3% But if we are using 8 weeks as the base, 10 weeks is 25% longer, so in the end, it's only a 5% bump.

It appears to be the hydro causing them to take longer to finish. Co2 doesn't seem to alter it.

It's almost like nature won't let you yield 30% more, w/o paying for it elsewhere. If soil wasn't a burden for me, I think I would prefer to turn plants over faster.

I'm sorry, what were we talking about?

 

[mushroombrew]

I have never had a strain finish at 55 lol. It's usually 70. Converting to hydro, I started to see that when I grow the same cut as the soil people, it takes me 10 days longer. Someone posted a thread about it, "DWC buds finishing behind soil" or similar.

But yea, almost any strain, I'm 65+. I have no idea why. I never directly compared with a side by side of soil/hydro. But I was soil before, and switching to hydro added 10 days to the strains I had. It was roughly a 20% bump in yield.

I will stay with hydro bc for me, it's significantly easier. But with hydro and co2, I yield about 30% more than soil & no co2. +/- 3% But if we are using 8 weeks as the base, 10 weeks is 25% longer, so in the end, it's only a 5% bump.

It appears to be the hydro causing them to take longer to finish. Co2 doesn't seem to alter it.

It's almost like nature won't let you yield 30% more, w/o paying for it elsewhere. If soil wasn't a burden for me, I think I would prefer to turn plants over faster.

I'm sorry, what were we talking about?

I find the opposite to be true. Early maturation in my (hydro)setup.
But harvest times are so variable. You have to run similar cuts in soil and hydro at the same time to be sure.
Anyone can let an 8 wk strain go to 11weeks. It's not like the plant dies. They usually will keep going until week 12 or 14. Just the high gets "boring" as oxygen converts the THC to CBN.

 

[Junk]

I find the opposite to be true. Early maturation in my (hydro)setup.
But harvest times are so variable. You have to run similar cuts in soil and hydro at the same time to be sure.
Anyone can let an 8 wk strain go to 11weeks. It's not like the plant dies. They usually will keep going until week 12 or 14. Just the high gets "boring" as oxygen converts the THC to CBN.

What type of hydro?

By finish early do you mean an 8 week strain will take you 49 days (approx)? Or just that you don't notice being 10 days behind like me?

RDWC in 5 gallon buckets seems to add 10 days for me. I'm wondering if the type of hydro has an effect?

 

[mushroombrew]

What type of hydro?

By finish early do you mean an 8 week strain will take you 49 days (approx)? Or just that you don't notice being 10 days behind like me?

RDWC in 5 gallon buckets seems to add 10 days for me. I'm wondering if the type of hydro has an effect?

I run a hybrid system. Getting DWC growth rates in trays.
And yes srtrains finish 5-7 days faster than soil plants. I notice the finish putting on weight around 45 days. By 56 they are ripe.
So yeah a 9 week soil strain finishes faster in my hydro.

I run a different feeding schedule. And defoliate heavily which, in my experience, causes a stress response... the plants make flowers faster.

 

[issack]

Yeah I've never went over 60 days. I modify my schedule and always start my bloom enhancers a week early then whatever the feed chart schedules.. my last grow I pulled at 50 cause I absolutely had to cause of this issue. I got over 13 pounds and people loved the product. It turned out fine. Rock hard sticky deep red chunky pineapple. Lol.. I'm also a production grower. I Harvest every two weeks from my Outdoors so I'm constantly dealing with trimmers, blasting extracts, making oils RSO oil. I've helped 4 people cure their stage 4 cancer, and to this day they are living with no signs of ever even having cancer just from the RSO oil and alkaline diet. never went to chemo ever. Gram and half to 2 grams a day in suppositories.. it works.. 100%
I just don't have time to flower for 70 days . I have to keep moving.. everyone has their method and preferences..

 

[issack]

I run a hybrid system. Getting DWC growth rates in trays.
And yes srtrains finish 5-7 days faster than soil plants. I notice the finish putting on weight around 45 days. By 56 they are ripe.
So yeah a 9 week soil strain finishes faster in my hydro.

I run a different feeding schedule. And defoliate heavily which, in my experience, causes a stress response... the plants make flowers faster.

I really like to defoliate heavy too. I always have. Get better airflow, more concentration to the buds.. it's just almost impossible to do it in this room with the way I have it set up. I defefoliate all the way to the first or second node when I strip the branches a week before I flip 12 12, and that's the only time I have to do it. Other than that, I have 2 Nets to deal with and I can't reach over 4 for that long. Super awkward positions on the back.. sucks. I would do some serious defoliation if I could walk around each table.. I would get much better yields.

 

[mushroombrew]

I really like to defoliate heavy too. I always have. Get better airflow, more concentration to the buds.. it's just almost impossible to do it in this room with the way I have it set up. I defefoliate all the way to the first or second node when I strip the branches a week before I flip 12 12, and that's the only time I have to do it. Other than that, I have 2 Nets to deal with and I can't reach over 4 for that long. Super awkward positions on the back.. sucks. I would do some serious defoliation if I could walk around each table.. I would get much better yields.

I am so lucky to have space. This is the first time. 3 ft isles and 4ft trays at waist height. So you only reach 2 ft. I got neck issues and its still easy to work in my show.
I feel blessed.

I dont defoliate until 21 days into flower
I strip all but 3 fans on every shoot. Then I feed heavily.
They swell up fast. Then at 6 weeks I di the same 3 leaves left thing. Then the lowers really harden up.
I got some purple cadillacs looking nuts at 7 wks.
So yeah defoliation indoors is mandatory for quality and yields.

 

[issack]

Just wanted to give a update. I made it.!! This time last run I was having to harvest. Right now I have no visible issues. No sudden yellowing. Just a little heat stress on the leaves closest to the lights. I'm having to tie colas back to the nets so they don't flop down on my walkway. So things are moving along and still packing beef.

I've done 4 stalk bleach sprays only. And sm90 at 5 mils a gallon. Pro tekt at 2.5. hygrozyme at 8 mil. And actinovate SP biological fungicide at 2 oz per 50 gallons. I've upped my rez cleaning major as well.. now I'm not so worried anymore. I'm fortunate I don't have it as bad as that other guy in the Fusarium thread where he couldn't even get past 3 weeks from cutting before his shit dies. That was a scary read.. freaked me out.. but hopefully with all this in mind now I can detour this issue.

So I'm kinda contributing this issue to using OG biowar tease in every single feeding I did as well as not being up on my thorough cleanings on my res. so pretty much giving my coco molasses all the time creates Funk is what I've been researching.. I have not done any tea in over 2 weeks. Last run I was doing teas at this stage still. I'm only going to use the bio war as a foliar to kill broad mites and russet mites when they arise, and I get them every run like clockwork no matter what. it saves my ass that's for sure.. also I'm noticing I have a lot of crap stuck in my lines and I had to clear them out last night and blow on it. a bunch of black stuff came out. so yeah the bio war was creating a serious Funk inside my pvc thats starting to clog and I have to go grab each dripper and suck on it to unclog it to make sure it flows right.

So the only reason I was doing biowar drenching was for root aphids. so I would like you guys input on what you use for root aphids.. also I was thinking since I only get them in random pots. I can just treat that pot and not have to treat the whole crop. I'm going to be doing smart pots next. Figure that will give me better airflow to the roots.. also new A/C and my airflow Under The Canopy is now on lock. I'm going to actually add some more fans up top to. All these factors should help me big time..

So I would appreciate you guys's root aphid techniques here.. I don't really want to use something really chemically strong either. But if that's what it takes then sure. One of my friends who is a member here, swears by unsented dryer sheets on top of the pots. Anyone heard of this.?

 

[DunHav`nFun]

Just wanted to give a update. I made it.!! This time last run I was having to harvest. Right now I have no visible issues. No sudden yellowing. Just a little heat stress on the leaves closest to the lights. I'm having to tie colas back to the nets so they don't flop down on my walkway. So things are moving along and still packing beef.

I've done 4 stalk bleach sprays only. And sm90 at 5 mils a gallon. Pro tekt at 2.5. hygrozyme at 8 mil. And actinovate SP biological fungicide at 2 oz per 50 gallons. I've upped my rez cleaning major as well.. now I'm not so worried anymore. I'm fortunate I don't have it as bad as that other guy in the Fusarium thread where he couldn't even get past 3 weeks from cutting before his shit dies. That was a scary read.. freaked me out.. but hopefully with all this in mind now I can detour this issue.

So I'm kinda contributing this issue to using OG biowar tease in every single feeding I did as well as not being up on my thorough cleanings on my res. so pretty much giving my coco molasses all the time creates Funk is what I've been researching.. I have not done any tea in over 2 weeks. Last run I was doing teas at this stage still. I'm only going to use the bio war as a foliar to kill broad mites and russet mites when they arise, and I get them every run like clockwork no matter what. it saves my ass that's for sure.. also I'm noticing I have a lot of crap stuck in my lines and I had to clear them out last night and blow on it. a bunch of black stuff came out. so yeah the bio war was creating a serious Funk inside my pvc thats starting to clog and I have to go grab each dripper and suck on it to unclog it to make sure it flows right.

So the only reason I was doing biowar drenching was for root aphids. so I would like you guys input on what you use for root aphids.. also I was thinking since I only get them in random pots. I can just treat that pot and not have to treat the whole crop. I'm going to be doing smart pots next. Figure that will give me better airflow to the roots.. also new A/C and my airflow Under The Canopy is now on lock. I'm going to actually add some more fans up top to. All these factors should help me big time..

So I would appreciate you guys's root aphid techniques here.. I don't really want to use something really chemically strong either. But if that's what it takes then sure. One of my friends who is a member here, swears by unsented dryer sheets on top of the pots. Anyone heard of this.?

Ok bro....Let`s make IPM/integrated pest management #1 on the list but find a way ta do it cost effectively using minimum chemicals as necessary.....right ?....here`s how I learned the hard way back in coco`s infancy with pressed bricks full of salt and bug larvae/eggs...first off....

SM-90 if used to inoculate the coco "before" transplants assures the larvae/eggs if present get "encapsulated" by the coriander oil base solution and smother , and I`m not sure about the "inert ingredients" , but I assure all here if used along with DE/Diatomaceous Earth as a top dressing , ANY eggs or larvae that hatch and attempt to get to the surface , the exoskeleton will be ripped to shreds in the process if they make it ........

I used SM-90 for rootrot protection in my fast hydro yrs along with Silicablast for stem wall strength and plant health , and when I went full fledged DTW coco , I saw no reason to stop......and guess what....

About the time I went coco , Nutrilife tried to get SM-90 approved in Cali as both a rootrot preventative AND as rootzone Insect prevention , and the State shit canned em as EITHER.....so....

After me usin the shit for yrs and yrs with dialed results , Cali`s dumbass powers that be classify the shit as a "wetting agent" only/surfactant and SM-90 falls by the wayside of old head knowledge along with all the main weedsites dead and gone.....regardless....
]
You`ve been runnin 20 yrs , so I`ll tell yas upfront....You know what`s goin on , it`s all in the fine tuning that dialage comes from where you live , and that matters most....

I was taught 70% RH from start to end for explosive growth and yield , but most can`t grasp it and reproduce it , so shortcomings end up questioning said crazy ass yields from doin it , and that`s what`s gotten rid of all the old heads that do it cuz the kiddies call bullshit on 3 lbs + per light , and every old head I know online at many private places does well over 3 lbs per light with either increased plant numbers under said lights , or big plants with increased veg time but perpetual to keep rotations flowing for more runs per yr......anyways.....

DJM/Don Juan Matuus moved from the Dirty South where I live and adapted to Colorado`s environment with full knowledge of what it took to grow big plants and the humidity it takes to do it and kicked ass from experience....period....

I`m gonna ask that you disconnect your tables from the side and end walls , chop a ft or so off the ends , frame up the legs underneath and put swivel casters on so you can "WORK YOUR PLANTS" and move em back and forth ....


Learned many yrs ago about "leaf strippin" aka "defoliation" from a self proclaimed grow guru for increased yields and decreased trim time at Harvey , and what I learned is that there is no specific time to do it without fear of complete plant shutdown as I experienced with 512 Chem D`s I was told to completely strip @ 21 days and then again @ day 45 that cost me an extra 2 weeks to get em where they`d normally be at 10 weeks , but I digress....

Leaf strippin/defoliation is strictly "Strain related" and has ta be done once stretch is completely over or there will be a recovery period....if you don`t have tons of plants in production mode it might not ever be noticed , but bet on it , done at the wrong time will slow shit down for Harvey guaranteed,,,,,aight....

Just tryin ta help , not tryin ta tell yas what ta do , so good luck and holler if I can help.........

Peace.....DHF..........

 

[issack]

Ok bro....Let`s make IPM/integrated pest management #1 on the list but find a way ta do it cost effectively using minimum chemicals as necessary.....right ?....here`s how I learned the hard way back in coco`s infancy with pressed bricks full of salt and bug larvae/eggs...first off....

SM-90 if used to inoculate the coco "before" transplants assures the larvae/eggs if present get "encapsulated" by the coriander oil base solution and smother , and I`m not sure about the "inert ingredients" , but I assure all here if used along with DE/Diatomaceous Earth as a top dressing , ANY eggs or larvae that hatch and attempt to get to the surface , the exoskeleton will be ripped to shreds in the process if they make it ........

I used SM-90 for rootrot protection in my fast hydro yrs along with Silicablast for stem wall strength and plant health , and when I went full fledged DTW coco , I saw no reason to stop......and guess what....

About the time I went coco , Nutrilife tried to get SM-90 approved in Cali as both a rootrot preventative AND as rootzone Insect prevention , and the State shit canned em as EITHER.....so....

After me usin the shit for yrs and yrs with dialed results , Cali`s dumbass powers that be classify the shit as a "wetting agent" only/surfactant and SM-90 falls by the wayside of old head knowledge along with all the main weedsites dead and gone.....regardless....
]
You`ve been runnin 20 yrs , so I`ll tell yas upfront....You know what`s goin on , it`s all in the fine tuning that dialage comes from where you live , and that matters most....

I was taught 70% RH from start to end for explosive growth and yield , but most can`t grasp it and reproduce it , so shortcomings end up questioning said crazy ass yields from doin it , and that`s what`s gotten rid of all the old heads that do it cuz the kiddies call bullshit on 3 lbs + per light , and every old head I know online at many private places does well over 3 lbs per light with either increased plant numbers under said lights , or big plants with increased veg time but perpetual to keep rotations flowing for more runs per yr......anyways.....

DJM/Don Juan Matuus moved from the Dirty South where I live and adapted to Colorado`s environment with full knowledge of what it took to grow big plants and the humidity it takes to do it and kicked ass from experience....period....

I`m gonna ask that you disconnect your tables from the side and end walls , chop a ft or so off the ends , frame up the legs underneath and put swivel casters on so you can "WORK YOUR PLANTS" and move em back and forth ....


Learned many yrs ago about "leaf strippin" aka "defoliation" from a self proclaimed grow guru for increased yields and decreased trim time at Harvey , and what I learned is that there is no specific time to do it without fear of complete plant shutdown as I experienced with 512 Chem D`s I was told to completely strip @ 21 days and then again @ day 45 that cost me an extra 2 weeks to get em where they`d normally be at 10 weeks , but I digress....

Leaf strippin/defoliation is strictly "Strain related" and has ta be done once stretch is completely over or there will be a recovery period....if you don`t have tons of plants in production mode it might not ever be noticed , but bet on it , done at the wrong time will slow shit down for Harvey guaranteed,,,,,aight....

Just tryin ta help , not tryin ta tell yas what ta do , so good luck and holler if I can help.........

Peace.....DHF..........

Hey thanks for taking the time to respond with with all that.!! I will touch base on your suggestions.

I don't use coco bricks. I use buffered coco already ph ready. But I'm sure it still has the eggs in it. I have been using sm90 for the past three years in every one of my feeding schedules and now I'm currently up to five Mills a gallon.. I'm a true believer in it.

DTE. On this grow I did dust a good handful in the middle and top of the coco. I also sprinkled some mosquito bites in there as well. And now that you mentioned that, I remember when I did get root aphids they hatched and they were very small coming out of the pot, then never came back. So maybe they did get cut up from the Diatomaceous Earth and also where feeding off of mosquito bites.

My humidity is about 83 at lights on and co2 going. And lights out it's set to 65. I believe in RH to be a little higher as well.

I have been racking my brain for a while trying to figure out how to make my tables on casters movable and still have PVC piping Hardline for my pots so I'm still trying to figure out how the table could move hooked up to PVC piping for my feeds.. even if it was with a flex piping it would still move and disturb the small emitter coming off in my pot. And also my tables are only a foot off the ground and my ceilings are only 7 ft so I have this custom waste Reservoir that i made where all my drain to waste goes to with a pump in it that can't move and so if my tables move then that's in the way.. believe me I'm a 100% fan of Leaf defoliation and stripping branches I've been doing this for years and years but this room it's really hard to tackle that job. Still back to the main problem with my drain to waste feed lines being stationary.. but I'm going to figure this out.. I think I might be able to put a threaded disconnect at each loop on the table. That way when
I wanna move them I can simply unthread a end and move... maybe. Lol when I harvest I'm going to sit in the bare room with a joint and rack my brain with ideas and stare at my tables I'll figure it out.. but thank you for reminding me.. I'm all about moving my tables now.. I need too.!!! Would be 100% better. And bigger yield for sure.

 

[mushroombrew]

I have used those coiled garden hoses. You know like a spring. One end is attached to the main feed line on the wall. The other is on the tray. Then it can move easily. For waste I like those pool cleaner hoses. Flexible and durable. So all your trays can move 3ft in any direction.

He is so right about workability. Will significantly improve your show.

 

[issack]

That is a great idea.!! I'm on it. These tables are moving.

I can modify my waist tub so that the tables just slide across it.. this will be a game changer for me.

 

[mushroombrew]

That is a great idea.!! I'm on it. These tables are moving.

I can modify my waist tub so that the tables just slide across it.. this will be a game changer for me.

Do it. You will be so happy to get all around your plants!

I have 3ft wide isles. Shop vac all day long in the isles!! Haha!!

 

[DunHav`nFun]

Where there`s a will , there`s a way.....I was gonna say Goodyear rubber hose with brass fittings , but any available will work....Just remember if used for feed and or drain , nutes will degrade most hoses over time .....also.....

Anchor drip rings in your smartpots when you swap out containers and the drip rings have a tripod of stakes where it won`t move when you roll tables back and forth to work the plants....but....

The cheapest I`ve seen are on ebay for like 7 bucks each for the 6" which is all you`d need for the size plants you`re runnin .....you can make drip rings cheap but anchoring em in the medium`s a different story....anyways.....

Drip rings will keep feed away from the mainstems preventing stemrot , but clogging is possible as well , so guess what.....it`s always somethin on the road to Nirvana.....lol.....regardless.....

Low EC/PPM feeds tend not to cause residual salt buildup like more aggressive feeding , but Dripclean @ 1 ml per gal guarantees no clogging of equipment ever , while once upped to the 1 ml per gal regimen compared to factory`s .04 per gal , guarantees no residual salt buildup in the containers as well......aight.....

Good luck and get ta work..........

Peace.....DHF.........

 

[gaiusmarius]

Just wanted to give a update. I made it.!! This time last run I was having to harvest. Right now I have no visible issues. No sudden yellowing. Just a little heat stress on the leaves closest to the lights. I'm having to tie colas back to the nets so they don't flop down on my walkway. So things are moving along and still packing beef.

I've done 4 stalk bleach sprays only. And sm90 at 5 mils a gallon. Pro tekt at 2.5. hygrozyme at 8 mil. And actinovate SP biological fungicide at 2 oz per 50 gallons. I've upped my rez cleaning major as well.. now I'm not so worried anymore. I'm fortunate I don't have it as bad as that other guy in the Fusarium thread where he couldn't even get past 3 weeks from cutting before his shit dies. That was a scary read.. freaked me out.. but hopefully with all this in mind now I can detour this issue.

So I'm kinda contributing this issue to using OG biowar tease in every single feeding I did as well as not being up on my thorough cleanings on my res. so pretty much giving my coco molasses all the time creates Funk is what I've been researching.. I have not done any tea in over 2 weeks. Last run I was doing teas at this stage still. I'm only going to use the bio war as a foliar to kill broad mites and russet mites when they arise, and I get them every run like clockwork no matter what. it saves my ass that's for sure.. also I'm noticing I have a lot of crap stuck in my lines and I had to clear them out last night and blow on it. a bunch of black stuff came out. so yeah the bio war was creating a serious Funk inside my pvc thats starting to clog and I have to go grab each dripper and suck on it to unclog it to make sure it flows right.

So the only reason I was doing biowar drenching was for root aphids. so I would like you guys input on what you use for root aphids.. also I was thinking since I only get them in random pots. I can just treat that pot and not have to treat the whole crop. I'm going to be doing smart pots next. Figure that will give me better airflow to the roots.. also new A/C and my airflow Under The Canopy is now on lock. I'm going to actually add some more fans up top to. All these factors should help me big time..

So I would appreciate you guys's root aphid techniques here.. I don't really want to use something really chemically strong either. But if that's what it takes then sure. One of my friends who is a member here, swears by unsented dryer sheets on top of the pots. Anyone heard of this.?

really good to read that you are coming to the end np.

as for the rest, i'm shocked, broad mites, ruset mites, root aphids to deal with every run? you really wern't joking when you said you have uniquely hard grow environment. i thought i had things bad with my regular visitations from thrips in the last weeks of my grows, lol.

Hey again Isac

would love to see some harvest pics or some macros etc.

keep up the good fight man.

edited to add:

any reason not to go pure coco with your main coco nutes? all those teas and additives are really not needed. correct ec level is way more important then what additives you are using as long as you have a complete base nutrient like canna coco a&b or some such. will help keep your hoses from gungking up, maybe add some drip clean, maybe some pk 13 14 once near the end. also perlit in the coco just fucks with the coco in my opinion. how do you get broad mites every time? they coming from outside? or coming in with the clones? are you sure they are broad mites? don't those buggers pretty much screw the plant to the point of making the buds in to hey?

 

[issack]

really good to read that you are coming to the end np.

as for the rest, i'm shocked, broad mites, ruset mites, root aphids to deal with every run? you really wern't joking when you said you have uniquely hard grow environment. i thought i had things bad with my regular visitations from thrips in the last weeks of my grows, lol.

Hey again Isac

would love to see some harvest pics or some macros etc.

keep up the good fight man.

edited to add:

any reason not to go pure coco with your main coco nutes? all those teas and additives are really not needed. correct ec level is way more important then what additives you are using as long as you have a complete base nutrient like canna coco a&b or some such. will help keep your hoses from gungking up, maybe add some drip clean, maybe some pk 13 14 once near the end. also perlit in the coco just fucks with the coco in my opinion. how do you get broad mites every time? they coming from outside? or coming in with the clones? are you sure they are broad mites? don't those buggers pretty much screw the plant to the point of making the buds in to hey?

Hey thanks.! yes things are going well still. No more dead plants. !!!

Yes my tropical environment is very brutal with pest. I do believe they get in my room from stray gnats that come in. Mites like to ride on gnats and carry them places. I really don't worry as soon as I see broad mites or russet mites ( it's usually just in small areas or just one or two spots) I instantly do a three-day drench at lights out with bio war, done deal works every time 100% and yes I'm completely absolutely sure they are broad mites or russet mites. I've had them both, they both have different characteristics. I also deal with them Outdoors. I completely shower and change clothes before I enter my room always. But they still get in there somehow. Next run I'm going to do a 3-day drench right when I flip 12/12 even before I see anything just to make sure.. because I know they are waiting.

Harvest pics and more pics.. I have a grow thread going on in grow diaries. " 8 k coco grow show " stop over there and check it. I just posted a bunch more photos. And Friday when I harvest I'll post harvest and close up shots.

I don't understand what you mean about the coco and additives.? Did you mean the biowar.? I'm using Mills nutrients line. The whole line with coco. It's the first time I've used Mills and it's doing really really well. I like it. I've ran house in Garden before that. And flora nova. Mills seems to smoke them both for sure. I was pouring bio war teas in all my feeds to get rid of root aphids which I'm not going to do anymore, and that is the reason why my lines get clogged up. All That Funk from the compost tea in there which I'm never going to do again. I'm just going to use the OG biowar for foliar to kill mites. Stuff is gold man.. saves my ass for sure..

Next run I'm going to be using Mills Coco with cork. And mills. And purple wreck and Green Crack original cut. Stop by my grow thread man.! I got a lot of info on what I'm doing on there.

 

[gaiusmarius]

looking beautiful in there. ill check you grow show thread for sure.
to be honest im not familiar with biowar, ill do some reading, but it sounds like you have it all sussed for next run. great that no more plants are suffering.

 

[issack]

I wanted to bring an update to this thread for people searching for help with Fusarium and how I, and all you guys advice and tips solved this problem.

I used 100% coco this round and not half perlite.

I was very strict in cleaning my reservoir every 4 days.

I didn't water as much as I did the last two runs. Still had slight runoff but I watered less.

I did have some Fusarium streaks sliding up the stocks on the green crack only. I then did the topical bleach sprays at the bottom of the stock for the last 3 weeks of the grow with the green crack only. Every other day. The last week I did nothing. I believe some plants are more subceptable to this than others.. i did get these green crack cuts off a plant from outside that had some blight issues on the lower foliage. And at that time the weather outside was absolutely brutal with rain everyday for like 2 months straight. my purple wreck had nothing at all showing on the stalks at the base. I got these cuts from my friend though that had more cuts available than I had growing. So my garden was suffering at that time. But I still ended up being able to pull off the grow from the cuts on the indoor run.

The new 36k A/C is what made this all work out smooth. My last two runs with the old AC was just too hot. That's what sparked the Fusarium, and that's what made everything just start collapsing was the Heat.. my temps now don't get over 78 with lights on and lights off is 72 73. I only had to use one dehumidifier in the room opposed to 2, because the AC works so well.. the humidity the whole grow was 58 to 63. I ran the dehumidifier with lights on as well as to where the last grow I couldn't run it with lights on so the humidity would spike up to 75 80..

I didn't have a root aphid problem this time at all nor did I have any fungus gnats flying in that room the whole grow.

I did not lose one single plant even with light burn on the purple wreck they still powered through it.

I used OG biowar foliar only throughout this whole grow and CA-25.

So i beat the plague I had. And thanks to alot of you guys I got to make it happen.

Cheers everyone and happy fucking holidays.!!