Plant Farm 2016

[FoothillFarming]

Don't add any sulphur in conjunction with or after any sprays using oils, the two together create a phytotoxic effect on your plants. I'm also not a fan of OG Biowar as I personally think it is a vastly overpriced product where %70 of the product itself is Talc.

I had recent success against Russet Mites by using Green Cleaner for 2 or 3 applications, 3 days apart to initially knock them their numbers down. Apply the predator mites several days after your last green cleaner application so that they won't be killed off by it before they can do what they are supposed to do. I would order predator mites right now and get them to you before any additional damage is done. The nice thing about the mites is that they will stick around if cared for and will continually do work against spider, russet, and broad mites. I ordered mine from Evergreen Growers Supply. Here is a link where they break down what good mites will combat the bad, specifically for cannabis. http://www.evergreengrowers.com/crop-recommendations/cannabis-crop-recommendation/medical-marijuana-crop-recommendations.html

Here are the relevant ones for you that I had on my last order that I was very happy with,

Amblyseius swirskii - For Russets, Broads
Hypoaspis (Stratiolaelaps scimitus Womersley) - General soil mite, good defender against fungus gnats, etc.
Amblyseius fallacis on bean leaves - Good attacker against spider mites and good general defense
Amblyseius cucumeris Rapid Release - Also eats russet mites and good defense.

Seafour also recently recommended to me to get bee pollen to apply to the plants after a time so that they can feed off of it after bad mite populations begin to dwindle and the good mites can eat that as well as the bad mites to survive.

With all of this you can create the perfect defense to really knock them out and also keep them around so they don't stick around. I would venture a guess that if Russets are around then they are all over so you want to create this good environment for the beneficial predators to exist and stick around to perpetually keep the Russets off your plants. Keep us posted, no need to lose sleep

Regarding the OG Bio War. From what smart/somewhat experienced people have told me about that product isn't good. I don't use it, or recommend it. However, if you have russets or broad mite during flower, it tests clean and knocks down the populations. I used double recommend amount.

 

[who dat is]

Regarding the OG Bio War. From what smart/somewhat experienced people have told me about that product isn't good. I don't use it, or recommend it. However, if you have russets or broad mite during flower, it tests clean and knocks down the populations. I used double recommend amount.

I would strongly encourage anyone that has russets or broads to instead invest the money they would have used on OG Biowar on predator mites. You can ideally create the right environment for them to live on your plants perpetually, making your initial investment for them pennies on the dollar once you spread that Return on Investment out over whatever timeframe you want.

 

[Oakhills]

I would strongly encourage anyone that has russets or broads to instead invest the money they would have used on OG Biowar on predator mites. You can ideally create the right environment for them to live on your plants perpetually, making your initial investment for them pennies on the dollar once you spread that Return on Investment out over whatever timeframe you want.

I second that! they work extremely well, you need to make sure you get predators that will work in your climate though.

 

[plantingplants]

Thanks for tips everyone. Ironically a buddy had left his atomizer at my place for a long time and I was going to use that but he got bugs down in calaveras so he picked it up today. I think I'll buy one.

He was saying that down there everyone sprays Organocide to prevent and treat mites and a friend of ours knocked out broads with it. It's oil based so I can't alternate with sulfur.

Man people are goin big down there now with the permits.

I think I'll hit them with organocide and give them some mites after. Still don't know which ones will survive my climate. 20% humidity is lower than all the listed numbers, but as I understand, within the plant itself, humidity is higher. There's also the issue of diapause. I was recommended cucumeris by Applied Bionomics.

Saw a spider eating a little caterpillar today. Glad trichogramma's are on the way.

Also just for fun, here's how many males out of my seed packs I got:

23/46 bbhp
8/22 log x sl
4/11 DB
6/11 sky lotus

 

[plantingplants]

Alright so I took some more photos. At the end you'll find a dead gopher.

Here are two mounds doubleplanted with Green Crack. Smaller ladies. Heard a deer hop over the fence when I went in last night. You can see the hoof prints. At this point it's just eating the cover crop:

Two Blueberry Hashplants:

Two Legend OG x Snow Lotus:

....and the big girls. South side of these plants are super thick. Three Green Crack:

 

[plantingplants]

Here's some soil mold I found. I've found these grey patches of soil since last year. It's kind of fluffy and if you dig deeper it's usually a good chunk of soil with it.

Finally got one on my third trap attempt. The first failed because I was impatient and used them on a mound I didn't check for activity (by unplugging), and the second attempt was in a soil mound, and it just got filled up with soil. The third I did properly, as I outlined in Shcrews' thread. Sorry gopher. Can't be fuckin' with my roots. I make shadow box displays with animals or animal parts I find, so this gopher will go into one of those.

 

[cbcool]

Hey PP, the pic doesn't look like mold it looks like mycelium in the close up picture!?

In the picture with the BBHP what is that silver disc/cone in the bottom right? I was looking at it and couldn't figure it out?

Your plants are looking big and healthy, your hard work shows for sure!!!

 

[20sackzack]

Beautiful plants, plants! Are your green cracks from seed?

 

[slownickel]

CBC I think the sprinkler is on....

 

[cbcool]

CBC I think the sprinkler is on....

Your probably right, I thought that at first but I convinced myself it was the top of water can or something similar cause the shape was so uniform.

Looking at it again I can see the striations in what looks like streams of water. Either way it looked out of place so it it caught my eye.

 

[who dat is]

Plants are looking proper.

That guy has some teeth on him! I'm glad I only have to deal with field mice making homes under my pots. Find something and start putting notches in it.

 

[plantingplants]

Shit I guess it's been a while since posting. cbcool, it is mycelium, you're right. I mean mold is mycelium too but yea it's mushroom mycelium and i have a lot of it.

so here are some new photos. I made a post about what I thought/think is an N deficiency. I uploaded an album full of those photos.

Also tested my soil and took a photo of my roots. A 1:1 slurry with distilled water gave me 170ppm so 0.34 EC. Soil pH was 7.

Let me know what you think. Here are just some photos of the garden for your enjoyment

A big top:

Here are the ones that were left to grow close together, throwback, and next photo is how they are now, from the other side:

 

[Chunkypigs]

that's not a deficiency, just old fans leaves dying off as they transition to flower.

it's natures way of letting some light into the inner bud sites. your plants look very healthy.

 

[plantingplants]

Thanks for stopping in chunkypigs! A few fan leaves wouldn't bother me but it seems to be progressing pretty far up the plant.. on a few plants it's going up branches now. I think by the end of flower, at this rate, leaves inside flowers will be dying. It happened to me last year. I'm starting to wonder if my water is ok. 160 ppm but not sure what's in there.

who dat, that is one gruesome photo haha. I have a soft spot for mice and rats. btw, I can hear to tsk tsking me as I flounder around waiting for more input on my deficiency. I can't help it apparently.



Another throwback! Every other plant was removed.

Can anyone identify this really weird problem? The bottom left fan leaf is a good representative leaf. Check out where the leaves hit the petiole. The way it's growing is really interesting.

 

[who dat is]

who dat, that is one gruesome photo haha. I have a soft spot for mice and rats. btw, I can hear to tsk tsking me as I flounder around waiting for more input on my deficiency. I can't help it apparently.

Alright, ya got me. Seriously though, the more you wait the more your plants are going to get pissed.

Can anyone identify this really weird problem? The bottom left fan leaf is a good representative leaf. Check out where the leaves hit the petiole. The way it's growing is really interesting.

View Image

Any way you could scope that? I'm sure it could be any number of things but rule out broad or russet mites first. Perhaps too strong a spray otherwise?

 

[_tessarecting]

Ppms are way too low...fertilize...keep testing maybe weekly

 

[Rick G]

Looks like mites, scope it. Peace

 

[FoothillFarming]

Ppms are way too low...fertilize...keep testing maybe weekly

yup. Check for bugs, might be. However, low ppm's will cause that growth, then invite bugs in.

 

[moritzst]

very nice looking rows looking forward to them blooming

greez

 

[Stoney Johnson]

Same leaf problem here. Following.