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Plant Farm 2016
- Thread starter plantingplants
- Start date
plantingplants
Active member
Thanks stinky. Tess, they're doin' well. Thanks for asking. Some are still small and sad. My 7 ft blue cheese is flowering.
Green Cracks and Bodhi's towards end:
Cookies Kush on the far right, Green Crack in the middle, and a funny Green Crack pheno on the left. It's looking pretty yellow for some reason:
Green Cracks and Bodhi's towards end:
Cookies Kush on the far right, Green Crack in the middle, and a funny Green Crack pheno on the left. It's looking pretty yellow for some reason:
Haha, how happy are you now that you removed some plants from the rows?
that hedge is going to look really cool in flower with all the different plants mixed together.
Nice Work!
Nice Work!
plantingplants
Active member
So I have some plants with yellowing and dead fan leaves progressing up the stalk. They only have one yard of amended soil each so I imagine at 6-7 ft tall they've used up the N right? Shcrews didn't feed but he had a lot of soil for them. If anybody has suggestions on what to feed them I'd be grateful. Should I top dress?
Who dat, Sooooo happy I did that haha. It would be crazy pruning.
Thanks Chunkypigs! I'll get my drone out again for some aerial shots. At the end there are alternating dream beavers and bbhp's.
Who dat, Sooooo happy I did that haha. It would be crazy pruning.
Thanks Chunkypigs! I'll get my drone out again for some aerial shots. At the end there are alternating dream beavers and bbhp's.
_tessarecting
ஓ
Cootz is said to have enough N for 3 years yeah? N breakdown is a continual process from what I understand...so must be something else?
S
Stone House
Try a light dressing of bloodmeal, it should help for now if N is the problem.
I would think the N in bloodmeal would be used up before heavy flowering.
Others may have better ideas, this is what I would try.
plantingplants
Active member
Tess, three years? Wouldn't that depend on soil volume and plant size? There are 6 lbs of crab meal per yard. 1% soluble N and 3% insoluble. I don't really think it ran out but maybe the insoluble is not being made available quick enough. The tests showed 2.4 ppm ammonia (so 4.8 lbs/ac) and 275 ppm nitrate (550 lb). Definitely seems like N by the symptoms.
Thanks bobygrow
Stone House, I'll look into it. Thank you.
Thanks bobygrow
Stone House, I'll look into it. Thank you.
O
Oakhills
It could be that the roots are growing out of the amended soil and into the native soil on those mounds. Possible? Check if the roots are out of your Coot's mix. Then you know to top dress those areas. I'd go with Bio Live from DTE, but that's me.
Good luck!
plantingplants
Active member
I wonder if my soil is decomposing, tying up N. Maybe I should get a c:n test with my other test:
I think to test and see if it's N, I'll just hit one of the yellowing ones with chicken manure liquid extract. That will get it to them fast.
EDIT: scratch that.. If Tess with half of the crab meal in his soil hasn't run out of N with his big plants then there's no way I ran out. It seems unavailable for some reason though so maybe I need to feed them sine I don't have much more veg time.
Oakhills, the good soil is on top of unamended soil. I'm sure it's been grwn into that for a while now. My biggest plant was in there and it was doing great. I haven't seen any evidence yet that it bothers them.
I think to test and see if it's N, I'll just hit one of the yellowing ones with chicken manure liquid extract. That will get it to them fast.
EDIT: scratch that.. If Tess with half of the crab meal in his soil hasn't run out of N with his big plants then there's no way I ran out. It seems unavailable for some reason though so maybe I need to feed them sine I don't have much more veg time.
Oakhills, the good soil is on top of unamended soil. I'm sure it's been grwn into that for a while now. My biggest plant was in there and it was doing great. I haven't seen any evidence yet that it bothers them.
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plantingplants
Active member
Back again with a double dose of bad news. Another 7 ft male. It was a feminized green crack so no idea how that happened but that explains why I didn't check. Another lesson learned. Wish I could figure out something fun or interesting to do with these folly plants.
It was hot in the house last night and I rolled around all night having fever dreams. Everything I touched had russet mites on it and I couldn't stop from spreading them everywhere. I was super confused, trying to piece together where they were from and what they were on. I had these bad dreams for a sad reason:
Yesterday while finishing up with staking plants, I noticed my super sour diesel was extra shitty looking. It wasn't happy after the transplant and I just ignored it since it was so small. I scoped it since it had some brown looking new growth and sure enough it has russet mites.
I understand now when people talk about unhealthy plants attracting bugs-- this thing was covered with aphids (and ants farming them, plus ladybugs eating them). None of my other plants have bugs besides a very small amount of thrips and grasshoppers, but also beneficials like lots of spiders, some mantises, and pirate bugs. I have done nothing but release lacewings.
To make a long story short I think they came from either the bamboo I stuck next to the stalk, or a friend (who has a garden and has russets) who visited who just fuckin loves to fondle plants. He may have introduced them to other plants as well but maybe the SSD was just unhealthy at that point so they got a foothold. Oh, it was the only one that started in 6 gallons of 707 instead of Coots. Just a thought. The mites did not come in the soil though.
I carefully stuffed the plant into a kitchen trash bag along with maybe 4 branches from the neighboring plant it slightly touched. After scrubbing with rubbing alcohol and changing shirts, I scoped the neighbor plant and couldn't find any mites.
I know healthy plants don't get eaten by bugs but that isn't something I should rely on in the case of russets, correct? They can be moved by wind so I imagine they've moved to other plants but no evidence yet. I've physically removed most of the population. I'm pretty sure the kid spread it to other plants because I remember him touching others.
Should I just add soil predators and put fallacis mites on all the plants? Or should I hit them all with sulfur? I hate that firework smelling shit but my humidity is too low for the bio stuff like met52. Actually I think fallacis goes into diapause at this time of year? My humidity is so low, 20-30% I'm not sure what mite to use. I should stick my hygrometer in the canopy though to see what it is in there.
It was hot in the house last night and I rolled around all night having fever dreams. Everything I touched had russet mites on it and I couldn't stop from spreading them everywhere. I was super confused, trying to piece together where they were from and what they were on. I had these bad dreams for a sad reason:
Yesterday while finishing up with staking plants, I noticed my super sour diesel was extra shitty looking. It wasn't happy after the transplant and I just ignored it since it was so small. I scoped it since it had some brown looking new growth and sure enough it has russet mites.
I understand now when people talk about unhealthy plants attracting bugs-- this thing was covered with aphids (and ants farming them, plus ladybugs eating them). None of my other plants have bugs besides a very small amount of thrips and grasshoppers, but also beneficials like lots of spiders, some mantises, and pirate bugs. I have done nothing but release lacewings.
To make a long story short I think they came from either the bamboo I stuck next to the stalk, or a friend (who has a garden and has russets) who visited who just fuckin loves to fondle plants. He may have introduced them to other plants as well but maybe the SSD was just unhealthy at that point so they got a foothold. Oh, it was the only one that started in 6 gallons of 707 instead of Coots. Just a thought. The mites did not come in the soil though.
I carefully stuffed the plant into a kitchen trash bag along with maybe 4 branches from the neighboring plant it slightly touched. After scrubbing with rubbing alcohol and changing shirts, I scoped the neighbor plant and couldn't find any mites.
I know healthy plants don't get eaten by bugs but that isn't something I should rely on in the case of russets, correct? They can be moved by wind so I imagine they've moved to other plants but no evidence yet. I've physically removed most of the population. I'm pretty sure the kid spread it to other plants because I remember him touching others.
Should I just add soil predators and put fallacis mites on all the plants? Or should I hit them all with sulfur? I hate that firework smelling shit but my humidity is too low for the bio stuff like met52. Actually I think fallacis goes into diapause at this time of year? My humidity is so low, 20-30% I'm not sure what mite to use. I should stick my hygrometer in the canopy though to see what it is in there.
_tessarecting
ஓ
Feminized seeds still turn up male, and its about 50/50 not using a heat mat.
I would sulfur and then essential oil asap.
I would sulfur and then essential oil asap.
FoothillFarming
Active member
Treat every plant like it's infected.
I spotted the first effected branch in my garden last year. Chopped it, showered, then scoped the rest. EVERYTHING had it. My greenhouse has a swirling wind, and the mites just took flight.
Listen to Tess on this one, he seems to know more about the mites than me.
I spotted the first effected branch in my garden last year. Chopped it, showered, then scoped the rest. EVERYTHING had it. My greenhouse has a swirling wind, and the mites just took flight.
Listen to Tess on this one, he seems to know more about the mites than me.
plantingplants
Active member
Thanks foothill- what application rate do you recommend for the wettable sulfur?
Re: fem seeds. I used heat mats this year but last year no mats and no males or herms out of 60. Also no males or herms out of a friends two years of HSO green crack fem seed 99 gardens and he doesn't use heat mats. So that's 1 male out of 270. Not tryin to be a smart ass, just saying the evidence doesn't support that.
Re: fem seeds. I used heat mats this year but last year no mats and no males or herms out of 60. Also no males or herms out of a friends two years of HSO green crack fem seed 99 gardens and he doesn't use heat mats. So that's 1 male out of 270. Not tryin to be a smart ass, just saying the evidence doesn't support that.
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_tessarecting
ஓ
I forget, it says on the bottle, its either 15 or 30ml/gal
plantingplants
Active member
Sorry meant to address that to you. What brand did you use? Mine is powder.
_tessarecting
ஓ
Bonide, hydro shops got it for like 10 bux, needs to be atomized, get buildasoils essential oil blend or make your own
FoothillFarming
Active member
I didn't recommend sulfur. I threw everything at the bugs, but sulfer. Seems to be a big part of peoples success.
I was able to find safe, organic sprays that you can use up to harvest that helped keep them at bay. Still harvested maybe 80% of what I should have. Og Bio war double strength, azamax, neem and spinosad is what I used. Should have added sulfur. The spinosad and OG bio war I used to the day of harvest pretty much, and I had everything tested clean from several labs.
Don't add any sulphur in conjunction with or after any sprays using oils, the two together create a phytotoxic effect on your plants. I'm also not a fan of OG Biowar as I personally think it is a vastly overpriced product where %70 of the product itself is Talc.
I had recent success against Russet Mites by using Green Cleaner for 2 or 3 applications, 3 days apart to initially knock them their numbers down. Apply the predator mites several days after your last green cleaner application so that they won't be killed off by it before they can do what they are supposed to do. I would order predator mites right now and get them to you before any additional damage is done. The nice thing about the mites is that they will stick around if cared for and will continually do work against spider, russet, and broad mites. I ordered mine from Evergreen Growers Supply. Here is a link where they break down what good mites will combat the bad, specifically for cannabis. http://www.evergreengrowers.com/crop-recommendations/cannabis-crop-recommendation/medical-marijuana-crop-recommendations.html
Here are the relevant ones for you that I had on my last order that I was very happy with,
Amblyseius swirskii - For Russets, Broads
Hypoaspis (Stratiolaelaps scimitus Womersley) - General soil mite, good defender against fungus gnats, etc.
Amblyseius fallacis on bean leaves - Good attacker against spider mites and good general defense
Amblyseius cucumeris Rapid Release - Also eats russet mites and good defense.
Seafour also recently recommended to me to get bee pollen to apply to the plants after a time so that they can feed off of it after bad mite populations begin to dwindle and the good mites can eat that as well as the bad mites to survive.
With all of this you can create the perfect defense to really knock them out and also keep them around so they don't stick around. I would venture a guess that if Russets are around then they are all over so you want to create this good environment for the beneficial predators to exist and stick around to perpetually keep the Russets off your plants. Keep us posted, no need to lose sleep
I had recent success against Russet Mites by using Green Cleaner for 2 or 3 applications, 3 days apart to initially knock them their numbers down. Apply the predator mites several days after your last green cleaner application so that they won't be killed off by it before they can do what they are supposed to do. I would order predator mites right now and get them to you before any additional damage is done. The nice thing about the mites is that they will stick around if cared for and will continually do work against spider, russet, and broad mites. I ordered mine from Evergreen Growers Supply. Here is a link where they break down what good mites will combat the bad, specifically for cannabis. http://www.evergreengrowers.com/crop-recommendations/cannabis-crop-recommendation/medical-marijuana-crop-recommendations.html
Here are the relevant ones for you that I had on my last order that I was very happy with,
Amblyseius swirskii - For Russets, Broads
Hypoaspis (Stratiolaelaps scimitus Womersley) - General soil mite, good defender against fungus gnats, etc.
Amblyseius fallacis on bean leaves - Good attacker against spider mites and good general defense
Amblyseius cucumeris Rapid Release - Also eats russet mites and good defense.
Seafour also recently recommended to me to get bee pollen to apply to the plants after a time so that they can feed off of it after bad mite populations begin to dwindle and the good mites can eat that as well as the bad mites to survive.
With all of this you can create the perfect defense to really knock them out and also keep them around so they don't stick around. I would venture a guess that if Russets are around then they are all over so you want to create this good environment for the beneficial predators to exist and stick around to perpetually keep the Russets off your plants. Keep us posted, no need to lose sleep
