Outdoor Grow In Norway 2011

[festivus]

Keeping fingers crossed that all your girls make it to the finish line. Any yield will be a success, considering you're trying to do what many consider impossible.

There is a corregated plastic greenhouse covering that allows 75% of the light in, but doesn't allow you to see thru it. They come in 3' x 4' sheets and can be easily tacked to a wooden frame.

Seems like the spot needs another 4-6 weeks to finish. It would be great if you could flower your ladies inside for a month or so before putting them out, but transporting larger plants to the site would be a bit dicey.

 

[offthehook]

By the way, when you create seeds .. Do you then use the male auto plant to spread pollem. or is it auto female plant that becomes pregnant?


I have mixed some sheep faeces with the soil to a plant.
what about Chalking the ground now in the spring? do you think it will improve the pH level in the ground?
I have a friend who works at a farm that has great access to everything I need ... chicken, cow and sheep excrement.

I understand your first question like: If you have an early plant and want to cross it with an auto flower, will you use an early male to pollinate the female auto or vice versa?

In that case I would use a male auto flower to pollinate an early female.

But ofcourse I cross auto's with autos most of the time once i have created one.

But, Hmm, sometimes it is interesting to breed those full auto's back to early's tho. Auto's are for "playing it safe" but early's are much better yielders during a good year, so I like to have them both.

Considering your other question: Put dung and other biowaste as much as you can on one large spot during fall. sprankle it it with compost starter, saturate it with water, and cover it with plastic.

Put garden chalk and woodash in early spring during the first rains. Yes it will do your plants a lot of good, make thicker stems and helps them building a natural resistence against mold. The dolomite chalk that holds 10% Mg is working out well for me.

The ferts and biomass you are supposed to put in summer or fall before spring.

(chalk and nutes chemically react into ballast material to your plants other wise >bad?, so better not at the same time and preferebly first the nutes and then the chalk.)

gotto make sure you got a 50/50 balance in brown and green material in your compost pile. (Peat, leafes, stemms, roots and sticks are brown (High in carbon) Dung, grass cuttings, nettles, kitchen/garden leftovers are green.(high in N )

When using lots of dung, make sure to get a ratio of 50% herbivore and 50% bird/bat shit in it and mix dung always well enough with airy material in order to encourage better decompostation.

The onset of winter in here comes so rapidly that my compost has virtually no time to ripen outdoors, hence I bring it indoors to let it ripen over winter at low room temperature. In spring this will by and large be ready enough to carry it out into the woods.

But to prepare a spot locally like that outdoors I would not want to grow on it directly next spring but instead just mulch it up and grow on it the year after for the first time.

The nature of this work is for the larger part to just tend to my compost piles and maintain them well.
As a matter of fact they will improve year after year, ( if no ants come invading it) and indeed this hobby becomes more successfull with a good degree of patience and foresight.


To get an understanding on how the auto gene behaves insides crosses please check this link. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=186403&highlight=mendels+figure Yes I know it is dry stuff to read, but maybe the only way to get to understand it so you know what you are doing.

Hey, I did not invent biology myself, they only made me study it, lol

 

[sol guden]

Thanks
Good description of the different plant crossings, the link helps a lot

Have you crossed any auto plants that have received greater weight so far?
It would be cool to create an auto plant which received just as much weight as a regular 12:12 h plant outdoor.
Stabilized an auto gene that flourished with the same standard auto genes, but who just need 1-2 months longer to complete..... .


Have you ever tried to bloom a plant indoors in 2-3uker then put it out?

I've heard many diffrent people talk about that this is a good trick, but i belive this will stress the plants back into growth phase? because of the long daylight....

 

[offthehook]

Quote: ( Have you crossed any auto plants that have received greater weight so far? )

Working on it lol all the time.

But My buds don't increase in size year after year. Size is more related to environmental issues as to their genetics in my case.

It is not so much trying to get bigger buds all the time, it is more a maintanence issue of crossing the biggest times the biggest and-so-forth, into eternaty.


Quote ( It would be cool to create an auto plant which received just as much weight as a regular 12:12 h plant outdoor. )

Yeh, we have to create something inbetween a true auto and a early flowerer I agree, something like a "late flowering but true auto".

There seem to be some out there, but maybe there is potentialy better genetics around to work with.


Quote ( Stabilized an auto gene that flourished with the same standard auto genes, but who just need 1-2 months longer to complete..... . )

Right ! lol We understand the same.


Quote ( Have you ever tried to bloom a plant indoors in 2-3uker then put it out?

I've heard many diffrent people talk about that this is a good trick, but i belive this will stress the plants back into growth phase? because of the long daylight.... )
__________________

Yeh , they get a stress shock, will begin to stretch more than usually and won't get to their max cuzz of the root ball that has been compromised. But hey... But for some it works tho, Maybe more a "greenthumb" matter.
.
To me it is just not my style. Im a survival of the fittest breeder.

About them to return to growth phase, well, it depends what type of plants you talk and what time of summer you'd put them out.

regular plants would have to be put outdoors after flowering somewhere half july if they where to be started indoors on 12/12 directly on the 24 th of june.

This I once did with some regular indica, no auto in it at all, but just sensitive enough to decreasing daylight that it would maintain flowering.

Was a bitchy job tho, having to carry so large plants in 1 liter containers through the forest.
Because I hate that job so much, I quit doing like that and only grow from seed directly in outdoor.

(I could also have finnished them indoors yanno, instead of carrying them away and expose them to the outdoor elements, bit of a gamble always, I lost them to bad weather but at least did I got proove of the fact that they do remain in flowering if they are beeing put out that way)

With true auto flowers you don't have to be affraid that they will return to veg tho cuzz that's impossible otherwise they aint no true auto's.

 

[sol guden]

Sol Guden På Trim Tur

Sol Guden På Trim Tur

STAY TUNED

 

[sol guden]

Making Some Drugz

Making Some Drugz

Let's smoke

 

[sol guden]

Quote:Size is more related to environmental issues as to their genetics in my case.

It is not so much trying to get bigger buds all the time, it is more a maintanence issue of crossing the biggest times the biggest and-so-forth, into eternaty.


Quote ( It would be cool to create an auto plant which received just as much weight as a regular 12:12 h plant outdoor. )

Yeh, we have to create something inbetween a true auto and a early flowerer I agree, something like a "late flowering but true auto".

There seem to be some out there, but maybe there is potentialy better genetics around to work with.


Quote ( Stabilized an auto gene that flourished with the same standard auto genes, but who just need 1-2 months longer to complete..... . )

Right ! lol We understand the same.


Quote ( Have you ever tried to bloom a plant indoors in 2-3uker then put it out?

I've heard many diffrent people talk about that this is a good trick, but i belive this will stress the plants back into growth phase? because of the long daylight.... )
__________________

Yeh , they get a stress shock, will begin to stretch more than usually and won't get to their max cuzz of the root ball that has been compromised. But hey... But for some it works tho, Maybe more a "greenthumb" matter.
.
To me it is just not my style. Im a survival of the fittest breeder.

About them to return to growth phase, well, it depends what type of plants you talk and what time of summer you'd put them out.

regular plants would have to be put outdoors after flowering somewhere half july if they where to be started indoors on 12/12 directly on the 24 th of june.

This I once did with some regular indica, no auto in it at all, but just sensitive enough to decreasing daylight that it would maintain flowering.

Was a bitchy job tho, having to carry so large plants in 1 liter containers through the forest.
Because I hate that job so much, I quit doing like that and only grow from seed directly in outdoor.

(I could also have finnished them indoors yanno, instead of carrying them away and expose them to the outdoor elements, bit of a gamble always, I lost them to bad weather but at least did I got proove of the fact that they do remain in flowering if they are beeing put out that way)

With true auto flowers you don't have to be affraid that they will return to veg tho cuzz that's impossible otherwise they aint no true auto's.

Thanks
I will use this winter to cross some test seeds for the next summer .


I found a post(https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=65161). Where a guy from Canada has an auto gene that seems very similar to the genes that I want, but it is an unknown gene .... he says
" Auto flowering Afi that will flower under anything less then 22-24 hrs of light.
it can be kept under 22 hrs of light but it will start to hair up and elongate so i keep the mothers/clones under 24 hrs of constant light.....this creates abit of a root problem because their is no krebs cycle to help speed up root growth so i use pirranha, tarantula and voodoo juice to give me a quick.....healthy root system."

if it is correct that they do not bloom at 24 h light, then perhaps this will work on regular auto plant..

If this theory is correct, then I'm going to put some auto plants to growth for 1-2months, then put them outside in the beginning of June when it is best sunshine

 

[offthehook]

Better check they ain't no "early flowerers" just.

I bet they are.

I am doing those Iranian autoflowers from Dr greenthumb in canada, but at our latitude they don't perform too well.

They respond to daylight getting shorter just, and during that time they perform verry lousy.
Mines are already 1 month in bloom and are 2.30 cm tall, but no any significant budding out just.

Does not look good at all.

Dr greenthumb has been advertising his strain the same way this "auto afghani" is beeing advertised, but I bet that both have in common that they have nothing at all to do with "Auto".

But if their high is to prefere over true auto's then I find them interesting to cross with some matching true auto flowerer.

 

[powerrobbie]

True autoflowers will flower under ANY light cycle, I know mant people that grow them under 24 hours for the plants whole life, veg through flower. In the thread you posted the strains that Canadian is talking about are not true auto's they are "semi" auto's....bascially just very light sensitive strains...as soon as they feel their days shortening they start to flower.

 

[sol guden]

damn!

 

[sol guden]

Maraton Ronken

Maraton Ronken

Stay Tuned

 

[offthehook]

Jups, SG, I also think it is a good idea to stick to true autoflowers under your conditions.

Make sure they are out during the first week of may. Not sooner not later for optimal results, but ofcourse all spring are different and sometimes it is better to just wait untill the ground temperature has risen to at least plus 10 C but that is not every year the case.
Often you will have to compromise but those are my guide lines.

Ok now to your soil composition.
I like keeping it simple but it's a lot of work anyways to get it right.

30% black, peat based soil.(the regular that's ment for home gardening and flowers)

30% blonde peat. (the one with the long fibres usually found in grow baggs, cocos works too btw, but doesnt last as long)

30% brown, black or red dried clay chunks up to the size of a chicken egg but preferebly smaller but no dust!. discard the clay dust! and don't use grey clay!

Ok, so that is your base, but to go into detaill on how and why exactly this formula would take to long for now so you just got to trust me on that.

K, well, I am an ass on mathematics but now you got 10 % left that you fill up with the best ripened compost/wormcasting that you can find.

This compost/wurmcasting you can do 10% of the total mix but also up to 50% of the total mix, depending on strain.
It is a matter of trial and error honestly what works best for different strains, but as a rule> sativa dominant strains would like the lower percentage better and indica dominant strains like the higher percentage better.
The size and health of your buds will all come down to the right amount of true compost/wormcastings ratio to soil base.

Bring MUCH. For realy big buds I recommend a minimum of 500 liter per spot, and if the ground drains well enough (wich I expect it does there on that hill) then better line the sides of your hole with plastic to avoid local weed roots entering your spot and your canna roots growing out of your prime quality soil. Do NOT cover the bottom of your hole with plastic since surplus water needs to drain out somehow.

I donno if you have acces to ec and ph meters, but you got to get the ph between 6 and 6.8 ( add some magnesium holding chalk and wood ash! )

And let your Ec be between 2.0 and 5.0 Ms(depending on strain again) provided you don't add there any chemical ferts since that would upset the content of your Ec negatively.
stick to all organics!

Maybe a hand full of PK chemical ferts would be ok to your 500 liter but nothing else than that. You got plenty of N already, and to add it chemically would only cause ballast material to build up in your soil that will hamper the uptaking capacity at rootslevel. worst case scenario: they might burn to some degree.

Organic fert pellets ment to berry bushes also work well for our beloved canna plants.
It contains bone meal and sugar root extract and seems to be working better as plain chicken shit, allthough with chicken shit alone you also can get considereble results.
Add these pellets to your compost/wormcastings as much as your worms are willing to consume.
Collect nettle, top it up on your soil base, cover it with plastic and let your worms frenzy on it.

If you use dung too, to feed your worms, make sure to have it in the ratio 50/50.

so 50% bird/batshit and 50% herbivore dung. but I think I wrote this before already.

If you got more questions, well, just bring it on.

Next year you ppl in Norway will get some bud too damnit. lol

It's not that difficult, you just gotto do it and I noticed you've got the right attitude and that makes me wanting to help you as much as I can.

Thumbs up mate!

Ps, buds of up to 80 gr dry for some prime individuals in a SOG (sea of green) are possible to pull off this way on a good summer and with the right Auto genetics.

Check out some post from SGS here. He likes to differentiate between micro, medium and macro size autoflowers and he is totally right there.

Now it's up to you to do your research on obtaining the right strains.

Izz no eazzzy cuzz this whole "auto scene" is only just comming off the ground and we all are still pioneers in our own right.

quote:Today I Gave away cuttings to people who want for free.. end quote.

Great! That's the Spirit. Literally.

 

[sol guden]

Thank you for the soil mix recipe

I had an Ec & Ph Meter, but the evil police officers took them.
Lost some lamps and various other useful things ..
So i have to spend some money on new equipment for the winter and find me another place to rent ..
This is my second season outdoor.
I can already notice improvement from last year, both in growth and weight
2012 will become an unforgettable green summer
Thanks again for the helpful information from the start

 

[offthehook]

Your welcome, my pleasure.

Yeuh, shit happens, but I am glad you don't seem to be too disturbed by it.

Hard to predict the future tho, since every couple of times a decade our weather will screw us over, but offcourse I' m all for beeing optimistic or at least don't give a fuck about possible consequences.

Officers as individuals are normally not that evil. It' s just the evil system in wich they are lost and trapped into that is evil and wich we can only fight with "the all of us" by having the balls to peacefully and wisely stand up to it.

I strongly sense we are at crossroads my friend.

 

[arcticjake]

Hail fellow northern grower. So many things you said related to my own grow experience this year at 62 degrees N. I just dropped below 12 hrs of daylight and none of my Afgan Kush even started to flower yet. From May 17 start (3 weeks under lights/greenhouse and the outsde) most autos finished early August.
Lowryder 2, Auto Blueberry, La Diva, Snowryder, Roadrunner 1, Red Dwarf, Purple Jem xAuto and Blue Himalayan Auto were all true autos for me.

Afghan Kush (not auto) did not iniate bloom, White Dwarf was not auto or dwarf, Annapurna Super Auto started to flower early but still needs weeks (130 days and still needs more).

I love to try some of the Northern Euro Autos.

First time I ever lost to rabbits (pruned lower 2-3 feet off some plants) and first year for mold issues.

I at least I have stash to survive my subarctic winter, first frost was 2 weeks ago.

Good growing.

Jake

 

[sol guden]

Soon Summer Again!

 

[ulven]

Venter i spenning

Venter i spenning

Nice job you are doing outside.
Im at 65 degrees N.
I tryed out some ruderalis skunk But didnt get them to finish.
So this really looks good
Have you thought about making seeds outside this year ?

 

[niceeven]

Nice stuff. Really well done. It's great to see another northern grower here. I am on the other side of the pond and interestingly enough, even though I am at 53N (way South for you!) I actually get less of a season than many scandinavian growers. BUT what's special about your conditions is that there is hardly any night for the better part of summer. That makes growing in scandinavia (and Russia) something very special.

The amount of ingenuity and the thought that goes in you people's grows is phenomenal. Cudos and good on you. I look forward admiring more scandinavian 'Nordic' grows for years to come. Thanks for sharing that.