Tutorial Organics for Beginners

[ambr0sia]

how important is dolomite lime? doesnt it just adjust the ph?

Dolemite lime serves as both a pH buffer AND an excellent organic source of Calcium and Magnesium

i thought ph wasnt a issue in organics

It's this misconception that was a gotcha for me, too - pH isn't an issue in organics - So long as your soil is built correctly from the beginning, with plenty of pH buffering lime (2tbs/gal). Unfortunately, Fox Farm's Ocean Forest doesn't have near this amount, and I suspect the problem I'm having with the one plant that's in FFOF is due to that.

 

[BurnOne]

Dolemite lime serves as both a pH buffer AND an excellent organic source of Calcium and Magnesium



It's this misconception that was a gotcha for me, too - pH isn't an issue in organics - So long as your soil is built correctly from the beginning, with plenty of pH buffering lime (2tbs/gal). Unfortunately, Fox Farm's Ocean Forest doesn't have near this amount, and I suspect the problem I'm having with the one plant that's in FFOF is due to that.

Well, not exactly...
Dolomite isn't organic since "it never lived". Organic means "it once lived".
Dolomite doesn't buffer pH. It adjusts pH. Humates in the soil like peat, worm castings and compost "buffer" pH so the plant can take up nutes at extreme pH ranges.
It's all about the right soil.
Burn1

 

[localhero]

so am i in the wrong thread to ask how the tea recipe changes for larger than 5 gallon brews? or is it not about full watering with the tea, but more about dividing the tea amongst the plants?

 

[BurnOne]

so am i in the wrong thread to ask how the tea recipe changes for larger than 5 gallon brews? or is it not about full watering with the tea, but more about dividing the tea amongst the plants?

Same recipe. Make as much as you want.
Burn1

 

[localhero]

great, so im using about 3 quarts per plant to water, am i to understand that i just multiply 3 quarts times the number of plants to get the amount of tea i need to brew? i have my first brew going (5 gal in a 17 gallon bucket) and its already foaming to the top i guess tomorrow when its ready ill divide that up among the girls. then in 3 waterings from now ramp up the dosage to full strength tea. which for me would be about 20 gallons of tea. im gonna need more air...

 

[rupertb]

-

 

[mrred]

could well water be better for organics than RO water?

about the lime, im using coir does that matter?

 

[BurnOne]

rupertb-
Don't worry about those big fan leaves falling off at 45 days. It's normal.

mrred-
Well water is best. Powdered dolomite matters or I wouldn't have included it.

Burn1

 

[Frozenguy]

For recipe three, it says to add the LK, and molasses to the tea. Does that mean to brew it first or to add it to the water and "dry" mix before brewing?

 

[BurnOne]

Frozenguy-
Add it to the water and dry mix. Brew at room temperature 24 to 48 hours.
Burn1

 

[Frozenguy]

Frozenguy-
Add it to the water and dry mix. Brew at room temperature 24 to 48 hours.
Burn1

AWESOME thanks man..

I love organics..

 

[jasonk]

I'm using Soiless mix #2 and the Neptunes harvest recipe. and have a few more questions.

1)I'm still a little confused on what is beneficial to keep feeding along with this recipe. I have molasses and EWC I can include in the feedings. How much and how often of each?

2)I haven't really seen this covered yet, but I remember reading that EWC can be mixed in right before watering and no bubbling required. With what ingredients does bubbling become important? Will it benefit any of the above ingredients?

3) I am letting tap water sit out for 24+ hours in a 2L bottle before adding anything to it, as my bubbler has clones with it right now. Any issue using a narrow neck bottle to evaporate the Chlorine? After I mix up a batch into this bottle I would like to use it up over a span of usually 2-3 days, is this ok? Should I keep the bottle open or put the lid on it?

Thanks for any help, excited to get started! (even if I'm taking easy way out )

 

[BurnOne]

jasonk-
You can use molasses and worm castings every watering. I use 1 cup wc + 5 tbs. black strap molasses to every 5 gals. water. I bubble this for 24 hours then pour in my NH, stir and water immediately.
Bubbleing adds oxygen to the water. All living things in our type of growing need O2. It also helps prevent root rot.
I'd use a bucket to evaporate chlorine from tap water. Leave it uncovered 24 hours before adding anything to it. If you have well water this isn't necessary.
Burn1

 

[jaykush]

ambr0sia looking at your pics, you should have noticed or said something much earlier than letting it get that bad and then asking why. you need to learn to read your plants, what your plant says should be what you do no matter what, it should come before any recipes or schedules. for example if your plant says im burning, lay off the nutes. when it starts to say im hungry give it some. reading your plants will get you farther than anything else.

 

[ambr0sia]

ambr0sia looking at your pics, you should have noticed or said something much earlier than letting it get that bad and then asking why.

The problem first appeared the day before I left for a three day trip, just subtly in the tips. I called to check in on them but was told they looked "pretty much the same". I came back to what you see here plus a vast majority of the lower growth drooping with the leaf-tips curling inward - Every one of the leaves that looked like this dropped off with only the slightest goading.

...

 

[happyhi]

question for B1- is FUL-POWER humic acid the same thing as LK? i picked some up after reading about it somewhere here in icmag, is it to be used at every watering?
and any info is great. thanks,

 

[BurnOne]

happyhi-
I have no idea.
Sorry.
Burn1

 

[jaykush]

The problem first appeared the day before I left for a three day trip, just subtly in the tips. I called to check in on them but was told they looked "pretty much the same". I came back to what you see here plus a vast majority of the lower growth drooping with the leaf-tips curling inward - Every one of the leaves that looked like this dropped off with only the slightest goading.

sorry didnt see that, my question now is since you noticed tip burn earlier did you feed it anything before you left? did it get anything but water or even water while you were gone? is that hydroton there for a mulch or something?

For what it's worth, the other three plants in my tent are planted in LC's Mix #1 and are staggered in increments of one week behind this one, but all appear to be doing marvelously.

good to hear, nothing like making your own soil. got any pics of them?

 

[happyhi]

happyhi-
I have no idea.
Sorry.
Burn1

B1- thanks for the reply, if anyone else is familiar with the stuff i'd love to hear some info.
It's golden in color and derived from " prehistoric plant material" it is organic and says it is Cold Microbial Extraction Process. Claims to be a superior source of Humic Acid.
Is LK also humic acid? thanks, hh

 

[ambr0sia]

sorry didnt see that, my question now is since you noticed tip burn earlier did you feed it anything before you left? did it get anything but water or even water while you were gone? is that hydroton there for a mulch or something?

The night before I first noticed the problem (which was the day before I left) I gave her a pretty good soaking of flower tea, which was likely a bit older than it should have been (~4 days of brewing or so); I've noticed that pH in the teas tends to skyrocket the longer you leave it sitting around, so I wonder if this may have played a part. I left instructions with my "sitter" to flush the plant with some pre-prepared pH'd water + 1 tbsp of black strap molasses. Being the kind of person who is very handy with house plants, I don't think she took me seriously when I told her how much water to give it as part of a flush, and when I came back, half of the water I'd prepared was still left and the plant was near back to dry again. It was at this point that I did a really good flush (2-3 gallons), which seems to have turned things around quite nicely.

And yes, the hydroton is there as a mulch - I'm of the understanding that leaving your soil exposed opens your plants up to a whole host of pests that require easy soil access to thrive.

good to hear, nothing like making your own soil. got any pics of them?

I suppose a little good news from me couldn't hurt

The first two pictures are Chocolate Thai @ day 34 of flower

The last picture is a shot of my (crammed) canopy - Bottom right is the affected RGD, bottom left is the Chocolate Thai, back right is Headband, and back left is generically referred to as "The Purps". That's also their order from oldest to youngest; Even though the Headband and The Purps are by far the largest, they're also the youngest as far as flowering is concerend - Guess that's what happens when you don't do much training beyond a bit of LST and supercropping and then let your plants veg for waaay too long.