Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
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johnkneefive
Active member
thank you so much for all your help, i have a good feeling about this mix 
yes its unsulfured blackstrap molasses
here's a plant i grew with only rubicon fish ferts/silica and roots excelurator in straight promix hp..400 watt MH
im trying hooking up blumat drippers once i get a living soil that just requires water, i cant run fish ferts thru the blumats cause they may plug up.. and the fish ferts stink up my house pretty bad..lol... and also someday's im to sick to tend my garden,, i lost a few gardens in the past due to being to sick to water them...including that plant...so im hoping the blumats will be my solution.
sending good karma your way
yes its unsulfured blackstrap molasses
here's a plant i grew with only rubicon fish ferts/silica and roots excelurator in straight promix hp..400 watt MH
im trying hooking up blumat drippers once i get a living soil that just requires water, i cant run fish ferts thru the blumats cause they may plug up.. and the fish ferts stink up my house pretty bad..lol... and also someday's im to sick to tend my garden,, i lost a few gardens in the past due to being to sick to water them...including that plant...so im hoping the blumats will be my solution.
sending good karma your way
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I don't like to use vermiculite in indoor growing. I prefer the drainage of perlite. Even more in Sativa dominate plants.
Burn1
BurnOne your the tits!
much love bro
much love bro
Why is this the consensus? I have been using horticultural molasses for years and don't really understand why syrup is better. I know horticultural molasses lowers the ph and adds sulphur. I may use a tablespoon per 5 gallons of water to lower the ph. But, its never caused any problems and I use it at every watering. I just haven't seen anyone post why other than horticultural molasses contains sulphur which plants require.
Because black strap has the highest mineral and vitamin content out of any molasses.. sulphur dioxide is different from sulphates obviously which the plants can assimilate so i guess that is why sulphured molasses are avoided.
hmmmm. That sounds like a plausible answer. Thanks.
I didn't have an answer for the particular use of one molasses over another, either. With a couple clicks of the mouse it doesn't matter which molasses is used.
Sulfured Molasses is made from young sugar cane. Young sugar cane is used to make sweetners. When the sugar cane is harvested sulfur dioxide is used as a preservative of the cane before processing. The FDA says sulfur dioxide is generally safe for consumption unless used on meats and vegetables to be sold as fresh.
Non-sulfured molasses is made from over ripe sugar cane that is not preserved with sulfur dioxide.
Both sulfured and non-sulfured molasses are sold as Black Strap. Also, sulfured molasses still retains the micronutrients found in non-sulfured molasses. So, really there is not much of a difference other than the age of the sugar cane used.
Sulfured Molasses is made from young sugar cane. Young sugar cane is used to make sweetners. When the sugar cane is harvested sulfur dioxide is used as a preservative of the cane before processing. The FDA says sulfur dioxide is generally safe for consumption unless used on meats and vegetables to be sold as fresh.
Non-sulfured molasses is made from over ripe sugar cane that is not preserved with sulfur dioxide.
Both sulfured and non-sulfured molasses are sold as Black Strap. Also, sulfured molasses still retains the micronutrients found in non-sulfured molasses. So, really there is not much of a difference other than the age of the sugar cane used.
I think it probably does matter actually, slightly anyway.
Any molasses can be sulphured or unsulphured, it isn't just the young cane but the sweet cane molasses are more likely to go bad quicker than black strap.
black strap is used more as an organic/vegan health food suppliment so is less likely to be sulphured because people that want healthy want less preservatives.
And black strap does have the most minerals and vitamins out of them all, because of the age of the cane, which doesn't matter that much if you just want to feed the bacteria but if you want to add various extra microelements as well for the hell of it then black strap makes sense to me..
i'm not sure how passing sulphur dioxide through it can help it retain any more nutrients though.
Any molasses can be sulphured or unsulphured, it isn't just the young cane but the sweet cane molasses are more likely to go bad quicker than black strap.
black strap is used more as an organic/vegan health food suppliment so is less likely to be sulphured because people that want healthy want less preservatives.
And black strap does have the most minerals and vitamins out of them all, because of the age of the cane, which doesn't matter that much if you just want to feed the bacteria but if you want to add various extra microelements as well for the hell of it then black strap makes sense to me..
i'm not sure how passing sulphur dioxide through it can help it retain any more nutrients though.
Sulphur is added to prevent microbial development, especially fungal. the purpose of using black strap molasses is to feed/grow out microbes, therefore do not use molasses with sulphur added for this purpose.
agreed sulphur obviously does kill microbes, but sulphates are a different thing, they are used by the plant and should exist in the soil.
LOTS of things! Humic and fulvic acids are essentially water soluble powders formed from a synthesized reaction made from completely aged humates. It provides readily available macro and micronutrients that would otherwise not be available to your plants in a properly recycled soil mix. Has nothing to do with EWC, really.....if your soil has been aged for awhile then humic and fulvic acids are really quite unnecessary. If you are going to use these then get BioAg, for sure. They create a great myco product as well.
redclover - I'm using the ful-humix, mostly in week 3-5 in flower. It seems to keep the budsites elongating which means more potential flower growth. I don't use it in veg, early flower, or late flower.
If you are feeding soluble nutrients it will help with uptake. Though in my experience it will make deficiency or toxicity worse if your soil is unbalanced.
Make sure your water is not alkaline or else you will be using your expensive acids to neutralize alkalinity.
Been using it at like 1/4 low recommended dose, I'd be scared to use it full strength.
If you are feeding soluble nutrients it will help with uptake. Though in my experience it will make deficiency or toxicity worse if your soil is unbalanced.
Make sure your water is not alkaline or else you will be using your expensive acids to neutralize alkalinity.
Been using it at like 1/4 low recommended dose, I'd be scared to use it full strength.
L
Luther Burbank
Whenever I've gone full suggested dosage on TM7 or Ful-Humix I've seen twisting in the leaves. I keep it minimal with their products.
Here is a mix in tempted to use. Why? Because its what I have on hand.
1 part black gold potting mix
1 part Fox farm original planting mix
1 part Fox farm ocean forest
1 part large chunky perlite
Was only going to use a compost tea once a week(the mix is sold by KIS and I have purchased there upgraded compost tea brewer).
My watering method is a vague area for me and am considering 2.5ml/gal Dutch master root zone conditioner along with Flora nova bloom at 1/2 tsp per gal. This mix would be brought down to 5.6-5.8 pH from my municipals 7.6 tap water. I would use this mix from veg through flower.
I'm sure there are a lot of opinions and am open to all. The response to this I am hoping will guide me through to a good harvest.
My lights are HGl's SOL series and I am using air pots.
1 part black gold potting mix
1 part Fox farm original planting mix
1 part Fox farm ocean forest
1 part large chunky perlite
Was only going to use a compost tea once a week(the mix is sold by KIS and I have purchased there upgraded compost tea brewer).
My watering method is a vague area for me and am considering 2.5ml/gal Dutch master root zone conditioner along with Flora nova bloom at 1/2 tsp per gal. This mix would be brought down to 5.6-5.8 pH from my municipals 7.6 tap water. I would use this mix from veg through flower.
I'm sure there are a lot of opinions and am open to all. The response to this I am hoping will guide me through to a good harvest.
My lights are HGl's SOL series and I am using air pots.
So i've been running into trouble using the LC’s Soiless Mix #1 + Food RECIPE #1 + RO water.
I have had this stuff cooking in a giant 40 gallon trashcan since fall of last year, so around 6 months of cooking time.
I am running into issues with my plants becoming WAY too green boarding on blue, nitrogen clawing, and after a month after transplanting into my flowering pot with the super soil in it, This is what the plant looks like. http://imgur.com/a/42XaT
It's just 2 weeks into flowering but I fear it's an acidity problem with the sphagnum peat moss breaking down too much or perhaps just too many available nutrients from the long cooking time.
I am unsure if I should add more dolomitic lime to the soil before using it to try and up the pH or if I need to cut it with more fresh sphagnum peat moss before using, but I feel like I wasted a good deal of money and time with this happening to a couple grows so far. I haven't been able to get this organic growing going properly even when following directions
Any advice would help.
I have had this stuff cooking in a giant 40 gallon trashcan since fall of last year, so around 6 months of cooking time.
I am running into issues with my plants becoming WAY too green boarding on blue, nitrogen clawing, and after a month after transplanting into my flowering pot with the super soil in it, This is what the plant looks like. http://imgur.com/a/42XaT
It's just 2 weeks into flowering but I fear it's an acidity problem with the sphagnum peat moss breaking down too much or perhaps just too many available nutrients from the long cooking time.
I am unsure if I should add more dolomitic lime to the soil before using it to try and up the pH or if I need to cut it with more fresh sphagnum peat moss before using, but I feel like I wasted a good deal of money and time with this happening to a couple grows so far. I haven't been able to get this organic growing going properly even when following directions
Any advice would help.
maybe buy a soil pH tester if you suspect that it's pH related, to me it just looks more like too much nitrogen at this stage, but i've seen worse and i would have thought they will look better with a bit of time, maybe not it's hard to say but if you find the pH is way out then just sorting that out will help.. usually they should get a nutrient lock out from wrong pH and look different to that, usually a lighter green rather than Nitrogen toxicity..
Any advice would help.
Phosphorus(P) - Restricted and spindly growth similar to that of nitrogen deficiency. Leaf color is usually dull dark green to bluish green with purpling of petioles and the veins on underside of younger leaves. Younger leaves may be yellowish green with purple veins with N deficiency and darker green with P deficiency. Otherwise, N and P deficiencies are very much alike.
Potassium(K) - Older leaves show interveinal chlorosis and marginal necrotic spots or scorching which progresses inward and also upward toward younger leaves as deficiency becomes more sever.
Magnesium (Mg) - Interveinal chlorotic mottling or marbling of the older leaves which proceeds toward the younger leaves as the deficiency becomes more severe. The chlorotic interveinal yellow patches usually occur toward the center of the leaf with the margins being the last to turn yellow. In some crops, the interveinal yellow patches are followed by necrotic spots or patches and marginal scorching of the leaves.
Iron (Fe) - Starts with interveinal chlorotic mottling of immature leaves and in severe cases the new leaves become completely lacking in chlorophyll but with little or no necrotic spots. The chlorotic mottling on immature leaves may start first near the bases of the leaflets so that in effect the middle of the leaf appears to have a yellow streak.
- purple petioles
- dark green, blueish foliage
- interveinal chlorosis and marginal necrosis on mature growth
- interveinal chlorosis on immature growth
Phosphorus(P) - Restricted and spindly growth similar to that of nitrogen deficiency. Leaf color is usually dull dark green to bluish green with purpling of petioles and the veins on underside of younger leaves. Younger leaves may be yellowish green with purple veins with N deficiency and darker green with P deficiency. Otherwise, N and P deficiencies are very much alike.
Potassium(K) - Older leaves show interveinal chlorosis and marginal necrotic spots or scorching which progresses inward and also upward toward younger leaves as deficiency becomes more sever.
Magnesium (Mg) - Interveinal chlorotic mottling or marbling of the older leaves which proceeds toward the younger leaves as the deficiency becomes more severe. The chlorotic interveinal yellow patches usually occur toward the center of the leaf with the margins being the last to turn yellow. In some crops, the interveinal yellow patches are followed by necrotic spots or patches and marginal scorching of the leaves.
Iron (Fe) - Starts with interveinal chlorotic mottling of immature leaves and in severe cases the new leaves become completely lacking in chlorophyll but with little or no necrotic spots. The chlorotic mottling on immature leaves may start first near the bases of the leaflets so that in effect the middle of the leaf appears to have a yellow streak.
