Organic Booster: Alfalfa Mulch as a source of Triacontanol?

[Emeraldo]

Does anyone have experience with mulching alfalfa for use as a top dressing during flowering? Fresh chopped alfalfa, mulched and used as a top dressing, is said to not only provide N but also other nutrients and in particular a growth stimulating hormone, triacontanal.

I've not seen much info available here on 420 or anywhere else about that. Rose gardeners have been using triacontanol for decades to boost flowering. There are also boost products that either state that they contain alfalfa meal (or triacontanol) or do not state what the magic ingredient is. The debate has been raging for some time.

Anyway, I was thinking how it might be possible to harness the growth stimuating hormone in alfalfa for the benefit of my plants in flowering. I guess you can buy alfalfa meal, alfalfa pellets, and boost elixirs of various origins and composition. But why not go to the source and brew up a mulch that provides:
1. a moderate to mild source of N for the plant in flowering that has deplenished its organic supply of N in the soil?
2. a sufficient but not excessive amount of triacontanol to stimulate bud growth and photosynthesis during the flowring phase? (I say sufficient but not excessive because I read that a small dose of triacontanol is what works the magic, but too much will actually restrict growth.)

So I went looking for some alfalfa products. I could buy a 50 lb sack of pellets, or a 3 lb package of meal. There are lots of booster products, many of which claim to offer the result that triacontanol is supposed to provide without stating their ingredients. But then I wondered if I can use alfalfa directly, fresh chopped alfalfa? Mulched or in a tea? Where could I get that?

Well, as it turns out I didn't have to buy anything because right down my street is an area of farmland for cows, and alfalfa was planted there in the past and continues to come up every year, like a weed, right at the roadside. So I went down there with my dog and chopped a plastic shopping bag full of raw material, brought it home and cut it up into small pieces.

Now I have to say at this point in the season I have a half tub left of flowering soil, ingredients are listed in my thread emeraldo's 2017 female seeds grow. In addition to what I initially added and later amended, I am adding:
1/2 cup domite lime
1/2 cup bone meal
1 tbsp Calimag
1 tsp rock dust
2 tsp epsom salt
700 gr alfalfa, chopped fresh
1.5 L water with a half tbsp molasses

The alfalfa was in full flower. That would mean its leaves and stems have stored its N in the roots, I have read, but over all the plant leaves will have less N than if I had somehow extracted the roots. Anyway, I want less N at this point for a finisher. The main thing I am trying to bring into my grow is the triacontanal.

My question is: How much of this mulch can I use without over-exposing my flowering plants to the hormone triacontanol?

Has anyone tried to mulch alfalfa as a flowering booster?

I would appreciate your thoughts here, this would seem to be an organic finisher, assuming the trade secrets of Canna are still not published, but others, such as General Organics, openly list "alfalfa meal" as the first (and main) ingredient in Biothrive Bloom, which to me suggested maybe GO took the hint seriously that the big time boosters, such as Canna Boost, are in fact based on triacontanol from maybe alfalfa extracts? I don't know that.

Has anyone burned their plants with alfalfa mulch? Please chime in with your thoughts.

Here photos of what remained of my flowering soil, amended now by the addition of the above, including 700 gr alfalfa. The small purple flowers were in full bloom or even past full bloom.

 

[Emeraldo]

 

[Emeraldo]

Forgot to mention: I also added rhizo bacteria and mycorrhizae to my soil, the micro herd is ready to break down the alfalfa material and triacontanol, if that is possible. I really don't know if this will work.

But After the alfalfa had decomposed I will top dress my plants with small amounts. I have six plants, and will probably try six amounts: 1 tsp, 2 tsp, etc., up to six tsp. I understand it's not good to mix in the alfalfa mulch too close to the main stem but keeping it around the plant on the topsoil.

Any experiences with alfalfa mulch or alfalfa tea as a booster would be appreciated. I will post pictures of the mulch again in a few days.

Enjoy your gardening! Art or science?

 

[russjcan]

Aany N boost in flowering will trigger foliage growth. Watch out for that. It's almost impossible to get organic alfalfa so if you have to get tested that could be an issue.

 

[ReikoX]

Haven't tried it myself, but I would make a fermented plant extract (FPE) with the alfalfa.

 

[Emeraldo]

Aany N boost in flowering will trigger foliage growth. Watch out for that. It's almost impossible to get organic alfalfa so if you have to get tested that could be an issue.

Russjcan - Thanks for your input.

- Triggering foliage growth: Bud foliage growth needs only a little N and only if my plants have used up most available N from the veg soil. They've been using veg soil since late May and were re-potted into flowering soil (which has hardly any N) in early July. So maybe a little N would help at this point, at the very beginning of flowering where some fan leaves are turning yellow -- a sign the plant is using up its supply.

But the point you raise is exactly why I'm hoping this mulch will have only a mild amount of N. Whatever amount of N is present, I will use this mulch in very small amounts, anway. Only a very small amount of this mulch CAN be used at this point, because, while just a small amount of triacontanol is a growth stimulator, too much triacontanol is said to inhibit growth. So the mulch will have to be applied in a teaspoon or two.

- Organic testing. You mean it's hard to find truly organic alfalfa so my harvest would qualify as "organic"?

 

[Emeraldo]

Haven't tried it myself, but I would make a fermented plant extract (FPE) with the alfalfa.

Thanks for that, ReikoX, and it's great to meetcha!

Several ways to use alfalfa meal, pellets, or fresh chopped:

1. alfalfa tea, fermented extract

2. alfalfa mulch

Pros and cons of these?

The tea will be absorbed quickly into the soil in the root zone. Maybe that's a good thing if you know what it is you are working with. At this point I don't know. I will err on the side of caution. If I make an extract, I would use hardly any extract at first. Just a drop. Damage could be irreversible, except maybe for a flush (if that would work).

Mulch will hang around on the topsoil and traces of its ingredients will make their way into the soil with each watering. Better control, I think, in terms of amount and speed of delivery. If there is an adverse effect, I can at least scape off the mulch from the topsoil and remove most of the material.

Does anyone use triacontanol as an organic amendment to stimulate photosynthesis during flowering? It's supposedly what is in many of the boost products we buy without knowing what's in them. Imagine -- make a mulch or extract from alfalfa and save yer $$.

 

[Dog Star]

Made a extract,use water and some bucket.. put inside choped alfa-alfa and live
on a sun for two weeks,same as you made Nettle extract.. both of them are good for veg..

maybe Nettle extract is better..


Wanted to ask what kind of BS is that is hard to find organic alfa-alfa??

Would you think that they protect alfa-alfa with agro protectives?


Never hurd for protection of alfa-alfa.. except people use ryzobium bacteries to enlarge
N content in alfa-alfa root lumps but that move is totaly organic..

So all alfa-alfa need to be organic crop by defoult...

 

[Emeraldo]

Made a extract,use water and some bucket.. put inside choped alfa-alfa and live
on a sun for two weeks,same as you made Nettle extract.. both of them are good for veg..

maybe Nettle extract is better..


Wanted to ask what kind of BS is that is hard to find organic alfa-alfa??

Would you think that they protect alfa-alfa with agro protectives?


Never hurd for protection of alfa-alfa.. except people use ryzobium bacteries to enlarge
N content in alfa-alfa root lumps but that move is totaly organic..

So all alfa-alfa need to be organic crop by defoult...

Hi Dogstar nice to see you here in this discussion.

- Alfalfa extract good for veg: True, because of high N content. In fact, if the mixture mulches slowly, I was thinking of letting it ride all winter and using it as a starter next Spring: N + triacontanol. Am hoping the triacontanol will be effective as a flower accelerator, an organic booster. But heck, who knows? An organic booster can serve as a starter next year maybe.

- Organic alfalfa? I agree alfalfa is like a weed, strong and abundant growth, doesn't need herbicide or pesticide "protection". But I'll let ReikoX explain what he meant by his comment. I thought he was referring to the chance that in an agro environment there might be heavy metal in the vicinity, you know, heavy stuff being there around where my alfalfa was growing, not as protecting the alfalfa crop, but just out there because of general use. Who knows? Maybe I should have my mix tested before using.

Btw took a look at the mix this morning, has not broken down much. It may take a while, several weeks as you noted for your extract. I also wonder whether or not triacontanol breaks down at all, or will it break down only very slowly? Does anyone know?

So Dogstar when you used your extract, did you notice that growth was stimulated? Did you think it was just N or were you aware that it has this hormone triacontanol?

 

[Dog Star]

Thanx for fast reply Emeraldo,

yes you are right there could be heavy metals and other residues
as people wide use all kind of dangerous things for their crop of all kinds..

was refer to Russjcan post,Reixo told something not related to organic alfaalfa..


Why you search for this triacontanol??

While in reality you need to search for auxines,giberlinnes and cytokinins.. this are
a true organic boosters that will give you results you searchin for,

and they are inside kelp and other seaweeds.

I show you one product,you dont need to use it off course but please have your
attention a bit on him and read what that label have to say,its totaly organic
product and i am organic grower so i dont use sythetics of any kind..

https://agroplasmausa.com/universal-0-0-1
Ferticell Universal 0-0-1 is a name of product.. tryed link and he dont work so try to copy name and then look for product
on web.

Its prooved organic booster and i use him for few years,most of mine harvest
goes over 1 gram per watt while some plants break easily 2 grams per watt,
you can check mine pics in album.

Showed you these cause i sees you look for organic booster... and IMO a plants
growing best from natural plant hormones,they boost plant health,
number of bud sites and overall yield.


Hope this helps you..

 

[Dog Star]

Also to boost plant in organic way you need to add vitamins and amino-acids
and good product for mineral part,like azomite,granite dust,maerl..

this are all organic compounds and you are free to use them on plants and
you will not belive how much this will boost their overall health..

plants are very comparable to human beings.. and if you look good a plants
was created enviroment for humans and animals,whithouth them there will
be no us.. so by that logic a plant need same nutrition as humans.

They need full range nutrition for full range results.. they give love back if your
plan is good and your nutrition gived them all elements that they search for,
and by observing them i encounter they look for so much elements..,they complicated
in very simple way,same as us humans.

Human body also need all kind of organic compounds and mineral elements and if we lack
only one soon a deficience will show,same is with a plants.. if you dont give them
enough of different organic compounds they start to show you your mistakes.

 

[Emeraldo]

Hi Dogstar

Love that logo! Dog with fan leaf = Canis. I agree completely (and who could disagree with what you say there?) the plant world is absolutely amazing and I am constantly learning more.

Here is a 20-year old article by a rose gardener who discovered the mutiple benefits of mulching alfalfa for flowers, in her case, roses. It's worth a quick read. I've copied the whole article for educational purposes only:

26 Mar 1996
An Organic Alternative...Alfalfa
by Ivy Bodin

(Originally written for the Roseline of Baton Rouge LA in 1996 by former member Ivy Bodin, this fascinating article won an Award of Merit presented by the American Rose Society. Ivy now grows beautiful roses in Vista, CA.)

"Let me introduce a plant you are familiar with and which you think may be quite ordinary --alfalfa. Yet when grown in the yard it pulls nitrogen from the air and feeds it to soil bacteria, enriching the earth even more than manure. It produces prodigious amounts of humus. It's the perfect mulch. It makes the most superior compost. It's the ideal animal feed. And most amazing of all, it has been found that tiny amounts have a growth-stimulating effect that boosts yields of a wide range of garden vegetables. Don't think alfalfa is for farmers only. It just may be the greatest garden plant ever." by Ray Wolf, "Organic Gardening Magazine", early 1980s.


The Background:

The source of the special effect of alfalfa is a substance called triacontanol. As reported in "Organic Gardening" in the early 1980s Dr. Stanley K. Ries, a horticulturist at Michigan State University began experimenting in the early 1970s with nitrogen-rich foragers as fertilizer substitutes. The results of his 1975 field trials were puzzling in that some of the alfalfa-treated plots greatly outyielded chemically fertilized plots. In the lab they isolated the active agent --triacontanol, a fatty acid alcohol which occurs naturally in the waxy surfaces of the plant's leaves. Additional testing revealed triacontanol was not a fertilizer, but a growth-stimulating substance. The less triacontanol you use, the better the results.

At the Organic Gardening Research Center in Emmaus, Pennsylvania, greenchop alfalfa in very small amounts was tested and indeed it was found that use of homeopathic doses of greenchop alfalfa produced greater yields than use of much higher rates. The lowest rate to be used was found to be 1.5 ounces of alfalfa for 100 square feet of garden or about one cup of fresh alfalfa. The answer explained why triacontanol proved elusive, but garden crop yields on tomatoes, corn, wheat, cucumbers and other crops increased over 40% with alfalfa use than when no alfalfa was used.

Alfalfa is a perennial herbaceous legume meaning it can overwinter, doesn't produce woody tissue, and has the power to take nitrogen from the air and add it to the soil. Plants have purple or yellow flowers, with leaves in clusters of threes, on alternate sides of the stem. The plant starts from a crown at or near the surface of the soil, from which 5 to 25 stems may grow. Each plant is independent, and although usually thought of as a grass, it is more like a bush. It can reach as much as 4 to 6 feet in height with a thick stem. It's botanical name is Medicago sativa and its closest relatives are clover, peas and beans.

Alfalfa's main advantage is its ability to "grow" nitrogen and produce a high-protein forage. As a nitrogen-fixing legume, alfalfa is the standard by which other legumes are compared. It can fix an average of 300 pounds of nitrogen per acre, per year by supporting bacteria of the rhizobia family on its root hairs. As the bacteria grow, they take nitrogen from the air and convert the bacteria, forming nodules ranging in size from no bigger than a pinhead to the size of a BB. The plant uses the nitrogen produced by the bacteria, and in exchange provides sugar that the bacteria need to live. When the plant is killed, the nitrogen in the nodules and the extensive root system remain in the soil for future use. The top parts of alfalfa offer your garden a storehouse of nitrogen with fresh-cut alfalfa containing more nitrogen at 2.7 to 3.4% than any manure. The beauty of using a fertilizing mulch that you can grow yourself should be self-evident. An ideal way to use alfalfa is to plant it in part of your garden each year and regularly take cuttings to mulch all the rest of the garden and then later turn the plants under to green manure your garden soil. Still another use could be as a cover crop kept short by cutting, to mulch out seeds in your garden beds around your precious crops. Some alfalfa patches can be left alone for as much as 10 years with 3 or more cuttings being available for harvest each year. The main ways to use alfalfa in the garden are as a soil-enricher to be rotated through the garden, or as a patch to produce a high-nitrogen material for mulch. It can be used as the energy to heat up a compost pile or as a mulch for all garden plants, slow-releasing fertilizer throughout the year.


The Experiment:

Leaning on the old maxim "practice what you preach", I tried all the afore mentioned alfalfa lore and the results were astounding to me as an avid gardener. My realm was mainly in the vegetable garden and I immediately noticed results when I used a bale of alfalfa hay as mulch. This hay also supplied fire to my compost pile. The next year and for several thereafter, I grew a small patch of alfalfa plants in my 10 x 20 foot garden. I harvested the plants for mulch used on my vegetables and noticed a significant increase in volume and quality of produce. I would simply cut some alfalfa plant and tear it into pieces and distribute just a little around each plant. I also used the alfalfa plants one year as a living mulch around my veggies keeping them cut short with the clippings used around plants. The living alfalfa plants were then tilled into the soil each fall as a green manure and I was able to stop using chemical fertilizers and move toward the organic approach to vegetable gardening. I realized the nitrogen as a fertilizer from the alfalfa, as well as the growth inducing substance--triacontanol were revolutionizing my vegetable gardening. Some early trials with the green chop alfalfa on my perrenials and a few rose bushes also showed good results. But vegetables and increased yields were where the results were in those first years of experiment. The greenchop also made a potent fermented alfalfa tea that gave good results on plants.


On to Roses:

What does all this have to do with roses you say? Whatever you may wish to make of it! All longtime rose growers talk about the special effects of alfalfa as a fertilizer amendment to be worked in around our rose plants in varying dosages. The rose culture literature likewise has as many tidbits of advice about the use of that magic elixir--alfalfa, and the wonderful results that are produced in the queen of all the flowers. This well kept secret amendment did not pop up until I reached the inner sanctum of the rose world. When I discovered Alfalfa, the dosage was yet another mystery. Was it one tablespoon, two tablespoons, 3 cups, or 2 cups per bush, or as much as you can afford for all those bushes? I have tried all the approaches with some success, and as of lately with a cheaper source of the magic potion more available, I used more and got more vigorous results.


The Results:

Well, the flowers tend to be larger for one thing, coming from larger stems with healthier dark green leaves on them. Also the colors of the blooms tend to be richer in color saturation and maintain the color a bit longer than usual. The blooms aside, the plants themselves seem to have a prodigious vigor spurred on by that growth hormone in alfalfa. The leaves also tend to be larger and more numerous as the factory supplying all the food to generate those sumptuous blooms we strive for. Here we are talking about all roses but mainly the hybrid teas we love and groom for those beautiful cut blooms. The alfalfa in my experience tends to generate fine results in other varieties of roses also with the climbers, both modern and antique, showing the most dramatic results. Floribundas and shrubs tended to be more floriferous and hearty and old garden roses seemed to thrive on this soil amendment as compared to use of other manures from organic sources and from commerciallly produced fertilizers. It is noted that the David Austin English garden roses seemed to perform especially well with the use of alfalfa.


Where to get Alfalfa:

Locally at nurseries I have found 4 pound boxes of alfalfa meal for about $7. Also local feed stores usually sell alfalfa pellets made by Purina and other companies as an animal fodder in 50 pound sacks for about $15. Especially good are feeds for horses or rabbits. Many rosarians avoid the animal feed pellets becaue they say that there may be other things in them. Some brands do contain some molasses and salts as binding agents and flavor enhancers but is is doubtful this would produce untoward consequences. In an article in The American Rose Magazine, Dr. John Dickman recommends using alfalfa in a tea on plants and quotes Howard Walters--the Rose Rambler. "Alfalfa tea is a great Fall potion that doesn't interfere with normal fall processes. Alfalfa tea releases a growth hormone that makes everything work better. Just add 10 to 12 cups of alfalfa meal or pellets to a 32 gallon plastic garbage can with a lid, add water, stir and steep for 4 or 5 days stirring occasionally. You could also 'fortify' with 2 cups of Epsom salts, 2 cups of Sprint 330R(chelated iron), or favorite trace element elixir." The tea will start to smell as it ferments and Uggh! Use a gallon on a bush and add water back to the meal to remake several batches before finally pouring off the contents on your rose bushes.


The Formula:

From my own experience with roses I use about 2 cups of alfalfa meal or pellets per rose bush and lightly scratch it into the soil in the Spring and again in the Fall. That basically is the story on use of Alfalfa. I also believe the tea works nicely and sometimes will brew-up a small batch with about 2 pounds of pellets in a 5 gallon bucket of water aging it over a week and applying some to bushes. I add more water and keep steeping the meal for several more batches. The bushes definitely do seem to be healthier as a result and they seem to appreciate the tea in the heart of a heat- filled summer. I also like to use about a tablespoon of alfalfa meal or so on newly set out cuttings that I am trying to root, whether in pots or in the garden. I tend to get better results with this slight boost.

With all the information you will discover about alfalfa as a recommended tonic for roses, with attendant sparse details, the bottom-line test is to use some meal and observe the results for yourself. Whatever happens you will observe it to be beneficial and I guarantee you will have a pleasant new experience with your roses if you haven't yet tried this magic potion. Happy experimenting to you!

Ivy Bodin

 

[Emeraldo]

A Rose by any other Name...

A Rose by any other Name...

There is so damn much info on the web about alfalfa and its many nutritional benefits, including but not limited to triacontanol.

There's a lot of scientific writing based on experiments at universities, etc. So much, you could almost drown in it.

But what makes this fascinating subject more accessible and easy to understand are the posts and comments by practical gardeners giving their anecdotal data and experiences.

What does all this talk about alfalfa and triacontanol have to do with growing marijuana? Whatever you wish to make of it!



Just remember, my friends, as you read the following excerpt from a flower gardening site, that while these guys are all talking about roses, iris, orchids, and so on, whenever they mention a [flower's name], you just plug in the word "bud".



I found the following series of articles and comments on Davesgarden . com under a forum called Rocky Mountain Gardening, thread is entitled The Use of Alfalfa Pellets & Tea to Help Plants. There are also numerous comments following this excerpt which I did not reproduce here. I have copied the whole series of articles and experiences for educational purposes only:

From davesgarden . com:

From this website: http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/organics.html

ALFALFA MEAL (3N-lP-2K)

Alfalfa meal or pellets is one of the green manure crops and contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium which feed the plant. However, the biggest benefit of alfalfa is from the work it does in the soil. Alfalfa contains the hormone, Triacontanol, a plant growth regulator. Alfalfa meal can be top dressed and watered in. But quicker benefits are had when alfalfa is brewed into a tea. The primary boost comes from the millions of microbes in the fermented meal that activate the soil organisms that then convert nutrients into forms available to plants. Roses love it. Only apply alfalfa to the surface. If placed in the root zone, the rapid decomposition of alfalfa will generate heat which can damage the roots.

Another website: http://www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com/alfalfameal...

1. Made from alfalfa(If placed in the root zone, the rapid decomposition of alfalfa will generate heat which can damage roots.)

2. Slow acting all purpose fertilizer

3. An alternative to blood meal as a source of nitrogen, balanced with phophorus and potassium.

4. An excellent soil conditioner because of it's protein and carbohydrates that encourage microbial action in soil.

5. Ranges of N 2.0-2.5%, P .5-1.0%, K 1%

6. Has an excellent carbon to nitrogen ratio which helps speeds availability in the soil to plants.

7. Roses react to alfalfa meal especially well, also flowering shrubs

8. Application to plants are: half a cup per plant for new plantings; 1/2 to 1 cup to a depth of 4-6 inches deep around each plant; vegetables and flower beds need 2 to 5 pounds to 100 square feet.

9. Is used as a compost starter



The heat generated by alfalfa meal comes from bacteriological action.

Working in the wastewater treatment field, (sewage). I deal extensively with the action of bacteria. I am wondering how much of the oxygen in the soil a heavy dose of alfalfa meal would cause the soil bacteria to consume, (the growth hormone, Triacontonal appears to be a key here). Reduced soil oxygen levels and the heat generated by that rush of bacterial action as it breaks down complex nutrients to a form plants can use might not be good for the soil ecology. At deeper soil levels below six inches, the use of alfalfa meal may encourage anerobic decomposition, this would be very bad.

I would approach this with the same caution as if I were using a new gun powder while reloading bullets. Too much could be disasterous.

From Daves Garden:
Alfalfa Meal

Alfalfa provides many nutritional benefits not only for plant use, but for soil organisms as well. One very important ingredient is tricontanol, a powerful plant growth regulator.

Orchid and rose growers make an alfalfa tea and spray it directly on as a foliar fertilizer. Alfalfa is very high in vitamins, plus N-P-K-Ca, Mg, and other valuable minerals. It also includes sugars, starches, proteins, fiber and 16 amino acids. Approximate analysis is 3-1-2.

Sprinkle lightly over garden and water, or use about a handful (depending on the size) around each rose, tree, or shrub. Alfalfa meal and hay used for mulch contain vitamin A, folic acid, trace minerals and the growth hormone “tricontanol.” Use at 25 pounds per 1,000 square feet or 400-800 pounds per acre.

Alfalfa helps plants create larger flowers and increases the tolerance to cold. Make alfalfa tea by soaking 1 cup of alfalfa meal per 5 gallon of water.

Good for all flowering plants. Research has shown that using more is not better. At recommended rates alfalfa worked wonders on roses but it could be overused causing adverse effects.

From: Canadian Iris Society

Alfalfa and Irises - Mixing Alfalfa and Iris
by Dorothy E. Guild

A surprise had come with our regional newsletter when a member wrote that on the advice of a rose grower friend he had used alfalfa pellets on his iris with good results. It was noted that it can be used either as a side dressing or a tea to spray on the foliage. Very shortly I was off to the store to buy a bag of alfalfa pellets.

The usual commercial fertilizer mix had been spread in early April. In May the pellets went on as a side dressing for the one, two and three year old seedlings while a thin layer as a top dressing went on all seed rows. As the seedlings erupted through it they were carefully monitored so as not to be smothered. Another application of commercial fertilizer went on after bloom. Three weeks later an "alfalfa tea" was applied with a sprinkling can down the rows. I felt that in my opinion that the iris growth was much better from the alfalfa applications. Intrigued, I had written of this to another iris friend. Shortly thereafter he read in a garden catalogue of alfalfa use by rose growers. Included in the article was a specific analysis reporting the nutrients available in alfalfa. In 1990 he made up three beds to take transplanted iris. He chose to try an experiment by applying alfalfa to just one of them. By late fall he saw that vigor (side fan development, plant color and growth which are very important to a commercial grower and hybridizer) had exceeded that of those not getting the alfalfa treatment.

Weatherwise here, it had looked to be a sad year for iris culture. In the past two years leaf spot had suddenly exploded and with June so cold and wet, I had expected another year of the same. It did not happen though! Like my friend, I could not help observing how well the iris had done... seeming to exceed the performance of previous years. We will continue this experiment for three to five years and report back further results. The question is: Were our improved iris conditions attributable to the use of alfalfa? Can alfalfa pellets be a "magic carpet" for better iris culture?...

Dorothy Guild resides in Spokane, Washington. This article/item originally appeared in the CIS Newsletter April 1994 issue.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Feeding Iris alfalfa pellets
by Terry Varner

In mid-spring of 1991, upon information received earlier from an iris correspondent I began using alfalfa pellets as a side dressing in my iris beds. I had been informed that definite results were apparent within a few weeks. Through the years I have tried whenever possible to use organic methods of cultivation in my iris beds as well as my vegetable gardens. Though I have always used commercial fertilizers on my beds along with gypsum, I have also used compost as well. Therefore the idea of alfalfa pellets was highly appealing.

Following bloom season I used the pellets on new seedlings and before long their value was evident. I had healthier seedlings than ever before. Their color was a rich, dark green. In 1990 I redid three large iris beds in my back yard. (all the same size) At the time I added sand to loosen the clay and each one received the same amount of commercial fertilizer 12-12-12 mix, gypsum, and compost. This spring I did not fertilize the beds. In mid June, following the bloom season I decided to experiment on these beds since each had previously been reconstructed with equal amendments at the same time. I coated one bed heavily with alfalfa pellets and left the other two beds without alfalfa pellets or any other fertilizers. By summers end there was a very noticeable difference in the color, growth and development of the bed receiving the alfalfa pellets. The growth side rhizomes appeared on the irises in the treated beds two to three weeks before they did in the untreated beds. My seedlings which had been treated shortly after being transplanted also had tremendous side growth with some having as many as 6-8 side fans by fall. In my beds I coated the ground heavily with the pellets and applied them on a wet soil so that they would begin to draw moisture and disintegrate. I doubt that you can use them too heavily on iris. They do not burn. An interesting side observation is that I had practically no leaf spot this year. While it was a dry summer, by August we began to have good rains. I will not claim that the pellets themselves reduced the problem of leaf spot but it was nil this year except in the untreated beds.

Excited by what I was experiencing from using alfalfa pellets I began to research their composition. What do alfalfa pellets contain that would be of value in iris beds? The following information from Nitron Industries Inc., Fayetteville, Arkansas might help us to understand. Alfalfa has many qualities in the nutrition area, not only for plant use, but for soil organisms as well. One very important ingredient is Triacontanol, a powerful plant growth regulator. Orchid and rose growers make an alfalfa tea and spray it directly on as a foliar nutrient. Other benefits of alfalfa: very high in vitamin A plus Thiamine, Riboflavin, Pantothenic Acid, Niacin, Pyridoxine, Choline, Proline, Bentaine, Folic Acid, plus N-P-K-Ca, Mg and other valuable minerals, also included are the sugars and starches, proteins, fibre, plus co-enzymes and 16 amino acids. How could your soil not respond to such a delicious meal? We recommend a handful per plant or sprinkle lightly down the row.

Alfalfa meal or pellets are excellent to add to your compost pile. Make a tea and spray the liquid as a foliar feed while adding the remaining wet alfalfa to the soil. Fifty pounds of alfalfa meal or pellets will feed 1,000-2,000 square feet. Alfalfa Tea; Fill a five gallon bucket with water, add two pounds of alfalfa pellets/meal. Let sit overnight. The result will be a thick tea. Use as explained above. If you have not tried using alfalfa pellets why not try them this year? We believe that you will like the results.

Terry Varner resides in Marietta, Ohio and this article originally appeared in The Medianite Volume 33 #2 1992. This article/item also appeared in the CIS Newsletter April 1994 issue. It has been edited slightly.


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More on Alfalfa - Some Comments...
by Terry Aitken

We replant our iris back into the same ground every year and we are careful to add humus each year, as a reconditioner and Nemacur (a soil insecticide) to control nematodes. The most cost effective product that we have found is alfalfa pellets which we apply at about one ton per acre (or one 50 lb bag per 100 feet of row). It is applied in late August as our shipping season winds down and about two weeks before transplant begins. The fields are stripped and a tractor grinds everything in, both alfalfa and Nemacur, in one step. Presto we are ready to plant back! We first saw alfalfa used by Elmer Price, a fine iris grower in Tacoma, Washington. I think that he used a higher concentration than we do and his results were impressive. George Shoop used the "tea method" and also got good results. We have been pellet spreaders for about seven years. We particularly like the idea that the alfalfa usage helps the plants to get re-established before the ground cools for the winter.

Terry Aitken is a hybridizer and iris grower in Vancouver, Washington. This article/item originally appeared in the CIS Newsletter July 1994 issue.


The use of alfalfa pellets sure sounds like something extremely interesting and beneficial to try on our own garden irises. If you try this, we would really like to hear of your experiences and/or results. Write the Canadian Iris Society via e-mail at cdn-iris@rogers.com and let us know.


Another more scientific article from 1977: http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/ejournals/JARS/v33n2/v33n2-hinerman.htm


Alfalfa tea as a foliar spray & alfalfa pellets as a top dressing appear to be the way to go.

Sonny

 

[Dog Star]

Great info Emeraldo,

now i read triacontanol is also hormone that boosts plants but i didnt know
for him before as i used auxines,cytokinines mostly for mine plants.

Love all good organic advices Emeraldo,now a triacontanol is a new for me but soon
i will know more and better on him.


All the best there

 

[Emeraldo]

Great info Emeraldo,

now i read triacontanol is also hormone that boosts plants but i didnt know
for him before as i used auxines,cytokinines mostly for mine plants.

Love all good organic advices Emeraldo,now a triacontanol is a new for me but soon
i will know more and better on him.


All the best there

Great to have you in the thread, Dogstar! I was posting at the same moment you were, added some new info...

 

[Dog Star]

Thanx man on kind words,

new knowledge is always welcomed... i will have one more organic trick in mine sleeve..

 

[jonhova]

A lot of people talk about malted barley and malted grains for their amazing benefits. Clackamass coot and lumperdawgz on GC goes into detail on why malted barley is good.

 

[ReikoX]

Wow Emeraldo, that's a lot of useful information right there. Thanks. I've been meaning to start an alfalfa patch in my garden for a while now. This thread only motivates me further.

Sounds like you were right on using a few drops per gallon if made into a FPE. Sounds like superthrive to me.

 

[FizzyB]

Not exactly what you're looking for OP, but you should check out a product called Vitazyme. I primarily use it for it's organic hormones, including triacontanol. It's used in large scale agriculture, including orchards nearby where I live, and is very cost efficient. I apply 2.5 ml/gal as a root drench and 30-60 ml/gal as a foliar. It will cause your plants to uptake more nutrients so make sure they're well fed! It does cause a lot of stretching which indoor growers seem to be adverse to. It will also cause your buds to stretch out a bit if used later in flowering.

http://www.plantdesigns.com/vitazyme/

 

[Microbeman]

A search in ICMag produced these and a dozen more;

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=186605
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5258403&postcount=1028
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5191299&postcount=128
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4057799&postcount=3