Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

[Ca++]

I knew you were drawing that lol
Perhaps with the plate mounted on one lamp, you could put few mm of water in a metal kitchen sink, and lay your lamp in the sink, just like we were told never to. It would serve as an initial test, of how well an edge cooled plate might work. Copper/alloy/jam jar lid. Whatever you have to hand, before investing

 

[Drop That Sound]

I have no doubt it will work great. I mean, any bit of heat dissipation is better than nothing right. I would remote mount the radiators ( or should I say multiple heater cores, or a full on automobile radiator, to cool +1400 actual watts worth of LEDs split into 2 fixtures), just outside the grow space, with the shortest run possible leading to it on the other side of the wall.


The real question, is how much longer will the diodes last? Can I maybe double the life of the bulbs?

 

[NIKT]

According to which model? It also depends on the type of diode itself to some extent.

The easiest way is to remove the temperature from the TJ by lowering the current on the diode - e.g. in the case of mcpcb without a built-in power supply - two discs per one power supply - connected in parallel. + improved heat dissipation _ sensible radiator: does not have to be on water or glycol

Simply reducing the current density on the chip structure increases not only the durability but also the efficiency.

Most e27s on the market do not have excess diodes. Maybe with the exception of V tac evolution or solhetta 9.5 - the entire solheta series. It's not necessarily worth running solhetta or v tac evo at half power here.​

chart _ from a scientific article. temperature tj.

perhaps 3x more durable and up to 4-5% more efficient in generating light.

Simply reducing the current density on the chip structure increases not only the durability but also the efficiency.​

OliNo » Blog Archive » Philips – CorePro LEDbulb 9-60W 827 E27

www.olino.org

The ambient temperature during the whole set of illuminance measurements was 24.6 – 26.0 deg C.


The temperature of the lamp gets maximally about 56.5 degrees hotter than ambient temperature.

Warm up effect: During the warmup time the illuminance varies during 26 minutes and decreases with 12 %.
During the warmup time the power doesn’t vary significantly (< 5 %).
The variation in efficacy (calculated as indication by simplydividing the illuminance by the power) during the warming up is -14 %. A very high negative value indicates a significant decrease for instance due to heating up of the lamp (decrease of lifetime).

Voltage dependency: There is a constant dependency of the illuminance when the power voltage varies between 200 – 250 V AC.
There is a constant dependency of the consumed power when the power voltage varies between 200 – 250 V AC.

At the end of the article an additional photo.

80 degrees on the housing itself on the TJ is definitely higher. Rather, it is at the limit of the diodes' durability.

The question is whether it is worth investing so much in cooling the diodes. Square aluminum profile with a single fan - tunnel cooling. Straight _ similar back to the panel shown, made by Mrs. R4VEN.

ps:

you shouldn't look at it - they use a shaper for calculations that has nothing to do with reality in the case of higher plants. the so-called DIN
​

PAR-photon efficacy

0.8 uMol/s/We

The total emitted number of photons by this light, divided by its consumption in W. It indicates a kind of efficacy in generating photons.

Most likely, this lamp is about ~1.4 max 1.5 umol/J after removing the cap and calculating in the range of 400-750 nm. Nowadays, most manufacturers probably present it this way

 

[Karvivore]

Good day growers
Name is lazi but but you can call me Karni I am new to growing and I've been doing alot of researching on growing and finding the cheapest way to grow.
I was thinking of going the CFL route until I came across this thread and I am glad I did.
Grow gear is expensive where I am from and also I am broke AF with the most basic starter kit coming in @R7000 ($380) with this price tag I don't mind going small.

So I found a couple of leds that where dirt cheap coming in @ $0.27 (R5 South African Rands)
I am gonna get as many as possible
With most of them being 6w 3000k 440lm with the defuser on, how many would I need for a 40mm x 40mm grow box that I'll make from scraps e.g old house door
I'll remove the defuser obviously

 

[Mart]

5 = 30w per square foot

 

[singlecoiled]

Thank you for such a well thought out and helpful thread ! Your hard work is answering a lot of questions I've had concerning LED grow bulbs.

I use a Spiderfarmer SF-1000 for veg, but for some reason the SF-1000 is terrible with seedlings. Ive tried 4 times now with seedlings at various heights/power settings and they become very leggy no matter what I do.

So, I purchased a cheap 7 watt LED grow bulb from Home Depot and used it to start seedlings. Hanging the bulb a few inches off the top of the seedling stops the plant from getting leggy and they grow nicely for a few weeks with very little power consumption. These little bulbs can save a lot of wear and tear on your main lights too for early grows.

There is a lot of info here in this thread, I've got some catching up to do and a lot of reading.

 

[PCBuds]

With the EU energy rating of 'A' demanding over 210lm/w, the e27 isn't dead yet.

Every name I know for a lamp, links to every other. Non link to 'sil' though, and a direct search doesn't help. Where is this naming convention coming from? To me, it's a chip packaging.

It's an acronym for "Screw In Lighting".
Any light that screws into an e27 socket.

 

[PCBuds]

You can make all kinds of 's with SILs.
They're like Lego parts.

 

[Ca++]

I can't think of a good reason to call an e27 a sil. There is just no gain. There is only loss.

e27 is Edison Screw, 27mm.

e14, ses, small Edison screw, 14mm
e40 = HID 40mm Edison Screw

Who would want to dumb that down (it's a factitious question. I know who)

 

[goingrey]

LOL. Each has its benefit. E27 tells the size but SIL includes installation instructions.

 

[PCBuds]

I can't think of a good reason to call an e27 a sil. There is just no gain. There is only loss.

Back when this thread started LED bulbs were quite new on the market, everyone was using CFL's and incandescent bulbs were still available.

People (including @blynx) were experimenting with all the different types of bulbs to grow plants, and just called them SIL's for short, just like CFL for Compact Fluorescent Lights, but the SIL acronym was only really used here on this thread and others like it.

It was too time consuming to type out screw in light all the time.

 

[PCBuds]

LOL. Each has its benefit. E27 tells the size but SIL includes installation instructions.

Why does it take 21 noofies to screw in a light bulb?
One to hold the bulb, the rest to rotate the house.

 

[amanda88]

the reason why I went to this channel in the first place a month later I blew $2000 on an upgrade ..lol

 

[PCBuds]

the reason why I went to this channel in the first place a month later I blew $2000 on an upgrade ..lol

What did you upgrade to?

I upgraded to LED strips.

 

[Ca++]

LOL. Each has its benefit. E27 tells the size but SIL includes installation instructions.

E27 is the size and installation instruction.
E=Screw. E for Edison. In full, it's known as the Edison Screw or ES for short.
In the UK, we tend to use B22 for a gls lamp. That's a 22mm Bayonet mount. The ES lamp has been gaining popularity though.

Side note:
Unfortunately, mostly led by Europe, there is no convention behind the wiring of an ES lamp holder. While there should really be an expectation of the center pin being live, and the thread being neutral, it's not a standard in many places. This means peoples fingers can touch live while handing the lamp. This idiocy can't be wrote out of existence, because so many countries take it a step further. Using socket outlets wired however they please, and plugs that can be fitted in two directions. Which leads to the occasional post about LEDs glowing at night. It's because the kit is still live when switched off.

 

[Ca++]

Back when this thread started LED bulbs were quite new on the market, everyone was using CFL's and incandescent bulbs were still available.

People (including @blynx) were experimenting with all the different types of bulbs to grow plants, and just called them SIL's for short, just like CFL for Compact Fluorescent Lights, but the SIL acronym was only really used here on this thread and others like it.

It was too time consuming to type out screw in light all the time.

Oh I see. It's been used with such authority here, that it sounds real. As I really should know the name of a lamp, It's had my head scratching turn to googling.

I'm certainly not knocking someone for not knowing the name of their lamps fitting. It's a lot to ask. In reality, most people call it a bulb. So probably think it's fitted with a spade.

It would be nice to get this on track. Not confuse even the electrical bods amongst us

 

[amanda88]

What did you upgrade to?

I upgraded to LED strips.


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3 of these array 4's, https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/grow-light-guide/migro-aray-4-240w-full-spectrum-par-test-review/

 

[Drop That Sound]

The new age of cheap SILs is upon us.

Less than $40 for a 4 pack, with 800 actual watts


Who's gonna be the first to make a panel with them?


A long vertical tube tower, with all the bulbs connected in 90 degree mode would be cool!

 

[Drop That Sound]

 

[Drop That Sound]