Nutrients for ProMix and LED's

[@peace]

What nutrient line do other people like to use for pro-mix under these new LED's?

I switched to using a new white LED from my HID setup. I currently use GH 3 part system plus calmag and I am fine with continuing with it and trying to keep ahead of the calcium demands, which has been a problem. If other people have had a good or better experience with another line I would be interested in anything that you have to share. Thank you.

 

[troutman]

I'm now using all kind of things in a random rotation and not all at the same time like:

• Alaska Fish 5-1-1
• Bone meal
• Gypsum
• Epsom salt
• Dolomitic limestone
• Optimum OptiCal 2.3-0-0
• Optimum Silicate 0-0-3
• Optimum Gigaboost 0-3-3
• Gaia Green Greensand
• Gaia Green Powerbloom 2-8-4
• Gaia Green All Purpose 4-4-4.

For grow medium, I'm using Pro-mix and Gaia Green Living soil
with extra vermiculite, perlite added. Then I finish with a single
top layer of clay pellets.

I like trying new nutrients at times.

Cheers

 

[draztik]

Here is my suggestion. If you are using the 3 part GH Flora series in Pro-mix ditch the Flora Grow and only use Flora Micro and Flora Bloom along with Calmag. This is known as the "Lucas Formula". Here is the recipe.

8ml/Gal GH Flora Micro
16ml/Gal GH Flora Bloom
5-7ml/Gal Calmag
pH 6.3

 

[Creeperpark]

Pro-Mix Hp has a starting nutrient charge of a little over 350 ppm in it to start. When growing small plants one needs less fertilizer than growing large plants. I use the Flora Series table chart but I mix it to 3 gallons of rainwater instead of 1 gallon of water. I dilute the fertilizer but water with every watering to maintain a steady EC. In other words, I use 1/3 the amount of fertilizer but fed with every watering.

 

[Creeperpark]

There are many different variables when growing plants in containers using Pro-Mix. The size of the container and the type of water one uses makes a big difference. The frequency and amount of ppm of nutrients used will have a big effect. Always try to use clean water with every grow for the best nutrient absorption.

Here are a few examples of variables.
One can feed the plants a low ppm nutrient say 160 ppm and feed with every watering, or
feed every other watering @ 300 ppm
feed one time a week and water the rest @ 600 ppm
feed one time every two weeks and water the rest. @ 1200 ppm

The important thing is to monitor the runoff and hold or release discharge as needed to maintain a steady feed.

 

[@peace]

Thank you everyone for your comments so far. I am at the point where I am running low on the GH so I am just trying to see if there is a reason to switch to a different line. I went through old threads and saw that a lot of growers liked PBP or the Lucas system as draztik mentioned, but a lot of those threads were prior to these new LED's being popular. My guess is that nutrient lines are all about the same but I was curious to see if somebody had used GH and switched to a different line under LED's and had better results when they did.

I vegged for 9 weeks this run and transplanted to 5 gallon containers at about week 6 of veg, currently on week 4 of flower. I use RO with a bit (10-15%) of well water for buffer. I currently feed half to 1/3 of the light feeding schedule of GH. I use half of their V2 rate for much of veg. I have powdered dolomitic lime for my next run, so hopefully that solves my pro-mix acidification problem, which will hopefully stop the calcium issues under these LED's.

I am really just taking in knowledge at this point as I am limited in my experience to GH.

 

[bakelite]

I've had luck with General Hydroponics Flora Nova Bloom and Flora Nova Grow @ 1 tsp/gal. I use this from seedling to harvest. The stuff is messy and gritty and has to be shaken vigorously or stuff will settle out. The solution is very concentrated so a little goes a long way.

 

[@peace]

I've had luck with General Hydroponics Flora Nova Bloom and Flora Nova Grow @ 1 tsp/gal. I use this from seedling to harvest. The stuff is messy and gritty and has to be shaken vigorously or stuff will settle out. The solution is very concentrated so a little goes a long way.

I have only tried the Flora series (micro, grow, bloom) and the Maxi series. I will check out the nova

 

[Vandenberg]

I like two product lines that have claims to use pharmaceutical grade chemicals in as none/ nada/no heavy metal content in their nutrients unlike most mass produced horticultural grade chemical fertiliser out there commonly available.
Ever seen someone zap a fresh wet bud in a microwave and have it imitate a sparkler and even burst into flames? That would probably be the accumulated heavy metals I do believe.
I make medicine for my wife and growing the purest possible natural product for eventual internal consumption is a priority with me.
Canna Peat Mix is a two component fertilizer (A&B), developed for use with common, general usage non-fertilized peat based mixes and would be an excellent choice.
The "Humboldts Secret" A and B nutrient is another premium quality nutrient and would work quite well also, well enough to justify its premium price. With both, the bigger the jugs, the smaller the cost per ml is. They both store well. And they pass the sparkler test.
And yes I do grow under quantum and bar Led's Syn-ganically and no longer use the Flora Series, but did for years, Lucas Formula. Lucas used to post here some years back.
I just noticed I like two part formulations apparently.
Mono-Silicic acid ( fast acting silicon) Humboldts Secret A+B, fish hydrosylate (not emulsion), high phosphorus bat guano, along with "Real Growers Recharge" biological supplement with its
Mycorrhizae,trichoderma, and beneficial bacteria with Kelp, Humic, Fulvic & Molasses pretty much does the trick for me.
Vandenberg

 

[piper]

Jack's Dynamic Duo (the 20-20-20 and 10-30-20)

Start with Blossom Booster 10-30-20

After a week, switch to All Purpose 20-20-20

I do this often

Instead of alternating products, I'll use both in combination

In a typical 2 gallon watering can, add 1 TBL. of All Purpose and 1 TBL. of Blossom Booster

 

[Three Berries]

Heavy metals like Potassium, Magnesium and Calcium...........

 

[@peace]

I like two product lines that have claims to use pharmaceutical grade chemicals in as none/ nada/no heavy metal content in their nutrients unlike most mass produced horticultural grade chemical fertiliser out there commonly available.
Ever seen someone zap a fresh wet bud in a microwave and have it imitate a sparkler and even burst into flames? That would probably be the accumulated heavy metals I do believe.
I make medicine for my wife and growing the purest possible natural product for eventual internal consumption is a priority with me.
Canna Peat Mix is a two component fertilizer (A&B), developed for use with common, general usage non-fertilized peat based mixes and would be an excellent choice.
The "Humboldts Secret" A and B nutrient is another premium quality nutrient and would work quite well also, well enough to justify its premium price. With both, the bigger the jugs, the smaller the cost per ml is. They both store well. And they pass the sparkler test.
And yes I do grow under quantum and bar Led's Syn-ganically and no longer use the Flora Series, but did for years, Lucas Formula. Lucas used to post here some years back.
I just noticed I like two part formulations apparently.
Mono-Silicic acid ( fast acting silicon) Humboldts Secret A+B, fish hydrosylate (not emulsion), high phosphorus bat guano, along with "Real Growers Recharge" biological supplement with its
Mycorrhizae,trichoderma, and beneficial bacteria with Kelp, Humic, Fulvic & Molasses pretty much does the trick for me.
Vandenberg

Thank you for the input. Both lines look really interesting, I think I am going to look more into the Canna line first. Do you use cal mag still with both?

 

[Chandrika]

What nutrient line do other people like to use for pro-mix under these new LED's?

I switched to using a new white LED from my HID setup. I currently use GH 3 part system plus calmag and I am fine with continuing with it and trying to keep ahead of the calcium demands, which has been a problem. If other people have had a good or better experience with another line I would be interested in anything that you have to share. Thank you.

You do not have calcium shortage. You have confusion. I've been to this website before so I know the nature of this confusion, how it spreads like a dirty filthy 3rd world disease:

Someone told you brown spots on the bottom = calcium deficiency.

That makes ZERO sense from any viewpoint. But considering the crop we are growing... Calcium deficiency is simply not a thing with cannabis. Period.

CalMag was created to sell raw coco scraps as a potting medium, to greenhouses that grow flowers. Raw coco is high in sodium and potassium, CalMag was the magic bullet for the high EC coconut scrap stream. This NEVER applied to cannabis. And today all coco is rinses of its antagonists. Grow suppliers simply appreciate the pest and mold problems that calcium toxicity bring.

The people telling you that calcium toxicity is Calcium deficiency are bullshit artists who work for pesticide companies. Calmag does nothing but make potassium uptake impossible.

Which is the #1 deficiency in Cannabis, often called nute burn or light burn. Can someone PLEASE tell me why the cannabis community thinks potassium deficiency and nute burn are different problems? It's the same thing. Too many nutes like calcium, locking out nutes like potassium and boron. That's what nute burn is. What else would it be? Less nutes grows small green plants. Imbalanced nutes grow medium sized brown and yellow plants. You don't get burn from lack or excess, but from imbalance.


Tldr if you think you have calcium deficiency under led, you actually have Boron deficiency, caused by excess calcium. I've grown under Leds and this is 100% truth. Cannabis hyper accumulates calcium under led. The shortest plants had the worst "light burn" because they were most stunted by calcium... I had boron and potassium deficiency so bad I had to spoon feed every watering from day week 1 to the last half-watering of harvest. All because I followed a nutrient recipe from this grow forum, which in hindsight was compiled by a moran, lifted from the era of Hid and unbuffered coco.


Ditch the calmag. Unless youre growing petunias under hid with unwashed coconut fiber.

 

[goingrey]

You do not have calcium shortage. You have confusion. I've been to this website before so I know the nature of this confusion, how it spreads like a dirty filthy 3rd world disease:

Someone told you brown spots on the bottom = calcium deficiency.

That makes ZERO sense from any viewpoint. But considering the crop we are growing... Calcium deficiency is simply not a thing with cannabis. Period.

CalMag was created to sell raw coco scraps as a potting medium, to greenhouses that grow flowers. Raw coco is high in sodium and potassium, CalMag was the magic bullet for the high EC coconut scrap stream. This NEVER applied to cannabis. And today all coco is rinses of its antagonists. Grow suppliers simply appreciate the pest and mold problems that calcium toxicity bring.

The people telling you that calcium toxicity is Calcium deficiency are bullshit artists who work for pesticide companies. Calmag does nothing but make potassium uptake impossible.

Which is the #1 deficiency in Cannabis, often called nute burn or light burn. Can someone PLEASE tell me why the cannabis community thinks potassium deficiency and nute burn are different problems? It's the same thing. Too many nutes like calcium, locking out nutes like potassium and boron. That's what nute burn is. What else would it be? Less nutes grows small green plants. Imbalanced nutes grow medium sized brown and yellow plants. You don't get burn from lack or excess, but from imbalance.


Tldr if you think you have calcium deficiency under led, you actually have Boron deficiency, caused by excess calcium. I've grown under Leds and this is 100% truth. Cannabis hyper accumulates calcium under led. The shortest plants had the worst "light burn" because they were most stunted by calcium... I had boron and potassium deficiency so bad I had to spoon feed every watering from day week 1 to the last half-watering of harvest. All because I followed a nutrient recipe from this grow forum, which in hindsight was compiled by a moran, lifted from the era of Hid and unbuffered coco.


Ditch the calmag. Unless youre growing petunias under hid with unwashed coconut fiber.

What's your opinion on coco specific fertilizers?

 

[@peace]

You do not have calcium shortage. You have confusion. I've been to this website before so I know the nature of this confusion, how it spreads like a dirty filthy 3rd world disease:

Someone told you brown spots on the bottom = calcium deficiency.

That makes ZERO sense from any viewpoint. But considering the crop we are growing... Calcium deficiency is simply not a thing with cannabis. Period.

CalMag was created to sell raw coco scraps as a potting medium, to greenhouses that grow flowers. Raw coco is high in sodium and potassium, CalMag was the magic bullet for the high EC coconut scrap stream. This NEVER applied to cannabis. And today all coco is rinses of its antagonists. Grow suppliers simply appreciate the pest and mold problems that calcium toxicity bring.

The people telling you that calcium toxicity is Calcium deficiency are bullshit artists who work for pesticide companies. Calmag does nothing but make potassium uptake impossible.

Which is the #1 deficiency in Cannabis, often called nute burn or light burn. Can someone PLEASE tell me why the cannabis community thinks potassium deficiency and nute burn are different problems? It's the same thing. Too many nutes like calcium, locking out nutes like potassium and boron. That's what nute burn is. What else would it be? Less nutes grows small green plants. Imbalanced nutes grow medium sized brown and yellow plants. You don't get burn from lack or excess, but from imbalance.


Tldr if you think you have calcium deficiency under led, you actually have Boron deficiency, caused by excess calcium. I've grown under Leds and this is 100% truth. Cannabis hyper accumulates calcium under led. The shortest plants had the worst "light burn" because they were most stunted by calcium... I had boron and potassium deficiency so bad I had to spoon feed every watering from day week 1 to the last half-watering of harvest. All because I followed a nutrient recipe from this grow forum, which in hindsight was compiled by a moran, lifted from the era of Hid and unbuffered coco.


Ditch the calmag. Unless youre growing petunias under hid with unwashed coconut fiber.

Thank you for the input. My case is calcium deficiency, however you are correct as it was not caused by a lack of feeding calcium, it was caused by the pH making it less available because I did not add dolomitic lime/ a buffer to my medium in the beginning. My symptoms started and stayed in the the top, I have wondered about how helpful cal mag is vs well water though so I may try experimenting with well water vs calmag added to RO in the future.

 

[Ca++]

Canna and Plagron terra feeds have no calcium.
Growth technologies Ionic has 50ppm which seems fine to balance the cooler growing conditions of LED lighting.
Flora Nova claims 100ppm which is enough to satisfy hydro and coco grows (it's a feed for all substrates)

These are one bottle approaches.

No two grows are quite the same, but I think canna and plagron have not kept up with modern lighting demands. As feeds go, they are basically the same. Canna has a little more Mg. I can make neither work with LED until adding that 50ppm the Ionic carries. Ionic bloom is about the same N as the other two, but P is up from 35 to 43 and K from 160 to 180ppm. These, to me, are better numbers. Putting the P right where I increase it two with the other two. The K at 180 is about where some plants think it's too much. While other plants are just getting in their stride. So it's like the maximum safe dose for unknown plants. Though more testing might find plants that want even less, they will be rare.

The nova is clay based. Hence the grit. You don't need to make it dissolve. It will probably wear the bottle away first. I do like the nova, but it's N is high. That's not exactly a bad thing as N=weight. However, it's not manageable. What the bottle says, is about half the ppm the feeding chart claims. Talking to them about it, they don't have a clue. The guaranteed analysis printed on the bottle, is in fact a minimum. Thus, I can't put any numbers to what is in the bottle, except claims they severely undermine themselves. This leaves us with a feed that can never be modified to hit known targets, as we don't know what we have to begin with. This might annoy you when you advance to the point where you want to really get to grips with ppm numbers of individual elements of the feed. So I suggest you don't walk this path. It might be nice along the way, but there is no destination..

 

[SuperBadGrower]

Damn, the element himself has entered the thread^^

 

[Three Berries]

Damn, the element himself has entered the thread^^

White ash.....

I got an Bubba Kush auto in Pro mix BX now. They say it has enough starter nutes for two weeks. This is at 4 weeks.

First water was MgCO3 buffered rain water, second was 1/2 nute at 7.2 pH for it's second watering 4 day ago. Next watering will be with hard well water and some more MgCO3.

 

[Three Berries]

Here's the latest grow. Using ProMix BX and Miracle Grow Veg with some Langbeinite for a K and Mg boost.

30 days from the first soak.

 

[Gooseman23]

GH will work fine. You will just have to dial it in for your grow… but if you just want to switch just know you will still have to dial it in for your grow. But just to make a few jacks 321, Athena pro, canna coco, house and garden… plenty to choose from. Jacks would be the cheapest. But as I said you will be just fine with GH. You just may have to adjust a little to dial it all the way in.