Yes, cut it as close to the main stem as possible, and make sure you sterilize it first in some alcohol before you use it.
Not sure if my plants are sick or not
- Thread starter MPL
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MPL
Member
Alright, so I have been watching my plants for the last couple of days and the new growth is really starting to take off. Meanwhile, most of the older leaves are still trying to hang on, but are gradually turning more and more yellow and dying. I've cut a few dead stems off, but otherwise have left the plants alone.
A few of the new leaves (they are all tiny) are starting to develop crispy, brown tips. I fed 1/4 tsp. GH MaxiGro in 1 gallon of water two days ago. 1 day ago I added 1/4 tsp. AH Dark Energy (2-0-0 additive) to 1 gallon of water. Is this nute burn?
Also I noticed the pH of the runoff is a bit higher than it has been, almost 7.0. I'm about to water again tonight with water pH'd to 6.0 to offset this.
Otherwise the plants are growing and looking a lot better, except for the old leaves.
As far as the old leaves go, if they are still yellowing and dying off, does this mean the plant is sucking up nutrients from them? Does this mean I should be feeding more?
Any ideas why some of the new leaf tips are brown and crisp?
No pictures, as I have no batteries.
Thanks!
A few of the new leaves (they are all tiny) are starting to develop crispy, brown tips. I fed 1/4 tsp. GH MaxiGro in 1 gallon of water two days ago. 1 day ago I added 1/4 tsp. AH Dark Energy (2-0-0 additive) to 1 gallon of water. Is this nute burn?
Also I noticed the pH of the runoff is a bit higher than it has been, almost 7.0. I'm about to water again tonight with water pH'd to 6.0 to offset this.
Otherwise the plants are growing and looking a lot better, except for the old leaves.
As far as the old leaves go, if they are still yellowing and dying off, does this mean the plant is sucking up nutrients from them? Does this mean I should be feeding more?
Any ideas why some of the new leaf tips are brown and crisp?
No pictures, as I have no batteries.
Thanks!
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MPL
Member
Oh, forgot to add, when I first got the clones, the stems turned into a deep purple color. They are still that color. I have read in quite a few places where this could be a problem, but have also read that it isn't a big deal at all and some plants have purple/red stems naturally.
I just thought I'd add this in case it helps.
I just thought I'd add this in case it helps.
I really need to see pics in this situation, cause it could be anything when it happens at the top like that.... heat stress, dry heat, temps.... nutrient problems....
It sounds like you burned them with the feedings being so close, the 1/4 teaspoon of maxi gro should have been plenty, but you added more and now it sounds like you may have burned them.
I would flush them out a bit, it's going to stress them out now since you burned them..... added with the flush. I would use around a half gallon of water to flush them out properly, it will also flush out any nutrients in the mixture too, so you will need to feed them in about 5 to 7 days after the flush.
The pH may be high due to the over feeding. I would first flush it out and test the pH next watering.
How deep purple? that depends, some strains have a purple hue to them and sometimes it can mean they need phosphorus.... but I would have to see pics of it to be certain what is going on. I am sure pH is causing problems with nutrients being absorbed with the over feeding causing the pH to rise as well.
It sounds like you burned them with the feedings being so close, the 1/4 teaspoon of maxi gro should have been plenty, but you added more and now it sounds like you may have burned them.
I would flush them out a bit, it's going to stress them out now since you burned them..... added with the flush. I would use around a half gallon of water to flush them out properly, it will also flush out any nutrients in the mixture too, so you will need to feed them in about 5 to 7 days after the flush.
The pH may be high due to the over feeding. I would first flush it out and test the pH next watering.
How deep purple? that depends, some strains have a purple hue to them and sometimes it can mean they need phosphorus.... but I would have to see pics of it to be certain what is going on. I am sure pH is causing problems with nutrients being absorbed with the over feeding causing the pH to rise as well.
MPL
Member
Well, the plants are really starting to look better. All the small, new growth is looking healthy and a nice vibrant green.
I did flush last night, as I figured I overfed. A few hours after the flush and the lower pH I flushed with they started looking better.
I'll try to get some pics. I'm not so worried really, so long as the brown tips don't spread. I checked this morning and I didn't see any brown, so maybe it has recovered. I'll have to look closer though.
This is my first experience growing, so I am still learning how things will affect the plants.
Thanks again for all the input! I'll update with some pics ASAP.
I did flush last night, as I figured I overfed. A few hours after the flush and the lower pH I flushed with they started looking better.
I'll try to get some pics. I'm not so worried really, so long as the brown tips don't spread. I checked this morning and I didn't see any brown, so maybe it has recovered. I'll have to look closer though.
This is my first experience growing, so I am still learning how things will affect the plants.
Thanks again for all the input! I'll update with some pics ASAP.
Good to hear, yes please give us updates as we don't get a lot of updates with the people we help out 
MPL
Member
Alright, here is the update, as promised.
Should I go ahead and cut off the dead/dying leaves?
You can see in one of the pics the brown leaf tip on the newer growth.
Let me know what you guys think of their recovery so far. Seems a bit slow to me, but I don't have anything to compare it to.
Should I go ahead and cut off the dead/dying leaves?
You can see in one of the pics the brown leaf tip on the newer growth.
Let me know what you guys think of their recovery so far. Seems a bit slow to me, but I don't have anything to compare it to.
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You can use Epsom salts instead @ your local drug store. Great for a bath too!
HeadyPete said:
This right here is very correct, also you have it in a way to big of a pot, you got to watch with your watering..... your plants grow better if you move them to the right size pot and transplant as necessary... you not only help the plant get growth spurts, because cannabis does not grow quickly unless it roots 75% of it's pot, you will see that a plant after you transplant it grows slow and then all of a sudden it grows big, when this happens the plant will need transplant soon, this is one secret to growing bigger plants quicker.
MPL
Member
Ok, so I need some CalMag and I need smaller pots.
Would it be worthwhile to transfer them to another pot then? I did bury a good 4" of stem on each plant, so the roots go down at least 5" - 6" into the soil.
Thanks again folks! I couldn't tell they were having any kind of deficiency.
Would it be worthwhile to transfer them to another pot then? I did bury a good 4" of stem on each plant, so the roots go down at least 5" - 6" into the soil.
Thanks again folks! I couldn't tell they were having any kind of deficiency.
MynameStitch said:
MPL
Member
I found a bag of epsom salt in a cupboard. I followed the instructions on the back and then cut it in half. I put about 1/2 - 3/4 tsp. of epsom salt into a 50/50 RODI/Tap mix of water. Since the pots weren't as dry as I prefer before watering, I only poured in about 1 cup of water at the base of each plant just to get a little of the Mg into the pot.
I cut off all the necrotic/dying leaves as close to the main stem as I could without harming any of the new leaves.
We'll see how this works out in a few days. Epsom salt is a quick-acting form of Mg; how long should it take before any effects are visible in the plant?
Also, since my soil mix is in between soilless and soil, should I also shoot for a pH in the middle of the hydro/soilless --> soil spectrum? Say, around 6.0?
I cut off all the necrotic/dying leaves as close to the main stem as I could without harming any of the new leaves.
We'll see how this works out in a few days. Epsom salt is a quick-acting form of Mg; how long should it take before any effects are visible in the plant?
Also, since my soil mix is in between soilless and soil, should I also shoot for a pH in the middle of the hydro/soilless --> soil spectrum? Say, around 6.0?
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1 cup of water at the base of each plant just to get a little of the Mg into the pot.
Good, that is how you prevent over watering in a big pot, you water an area and not the whole pot, if you think you can do this then I would keep them in the mixture as long as it's not too strong for them.
Good, that is how you prevent over watering in a big pot, you water an area and not the whole pot, if you think you can do this then I would keep them in the mixture as long as it's not too strong for them.
Tap water can contain enough minerals, mine is borderline.
Should improve within a day or two. Mag correction works quick.
I still like 6.3 ph. You can try lower, but if you see problems, raise it up. My moms pitch a scary fit if the ph gets below 6. I'm still growing out some damage from last time it got too low from my pen being out of calibration by 0.9 points - that's a lot. I haven't heard any good reason why hydro is different ph than soil. The plant likes what the plant likes, ph-wise.
Should improve within a day or two. Mag correction works quick.
I still like 6.3 ph. You can try lower, but if you see problems, raise it up. My moms pitch a scary fit if the ph gets below 6. I'm still growing out some damage from last time it got too low from my pen being out of calibration by 0.9 points - that's a lot. I haven't heard any good reason why hydro is different ph than soil. The plant likes what the plant likes, ph-wise.
MPL
Member
You guys are really helping me out a lot. I've gone through all the infirmary stickies and whatnot and still would never have identified the Mg deficiency, as I thought the plants are fine. Goes to show that no matter how much research you do, there is still no replacement for experience.
Stitch, I have been watering the whole pot, but it drains so fast it is almost completely dry after 24 hours. However, the small bit of water at the base of the plant seems like a better way to do things, and since that is what you suggest I will continue doing just this. How will I know when to start watering a larger area? For that matter, exactly how will I know when to start feeding regularly?
I'll try keeping the pH I water with around 6.0. The runoff has been a bit higher than the water going in lately. Does anyone know what could cause this?
HeadyPete, referring to the minerals in tap water:
If you want to increase the concentration of the minerals so that more is available to your plants, let half the water evaporate/boil off. You get rid of the water, and the more you get rid of the higher the mineral content since it doesn't evaporate. Boiling works just as well and is faster. If you reduce the water volume by 50%, you increase the concentration of minerals by 50%. Maybe this could take you from borderline to mineral-rich.
Stitch, I have been watering the whole pot, but it drains so fast it is almost completely dry after 24 hours. However, the small bit of water at the base of the plant seems like a better way to do things, and since that is what you suggest I will continue doing just this. How will I know when to start watering a larger area? For that matter, exactly how will I know when to start feeding regularly?
I'll try keeping the pH I water with around 6.0. The runoff has been a bit higher than the water going in lately. Does anyone know what could cause this?
HeadyPete, referring to the minerals in tap water:
If you want to increase the concentration of the minerals so that more is available to your plants, let half the water evaporate/boil off. You get rid of the water, and the more you get rid of the higher the mineral content since it doesn't evaporate. Boiling works just as well and is faster. If you reduce the water volume by 50%, you increase the concentration of minerals by 50%. Maybe this could take you from borderline to mineral-rich.
