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Natural selection , Best way to use...
- Thread starter kerlito
- Start date
NSPB
Active member
Hey Castout...the only things that seem to need additional focus and attention is the Chem family lines. (Diesel, OG, Chem) Most of the resulting hybrids are a breeze EXCEPT when you tend to incross those lines...which most everybody has. This makes for a plant that REALLY like to eat Cal/Mg and still prefers the bottom end of the acceptable pH ranges. (not that I alter pH) This was a bit difficult to conquer as the more Ca/Mg you add via typical products you also tend to increase your pH, causing lockout of N and the very thing you were short on to begin with. So while I would like to say that YES, for certain, it all grows just fine...well it will all grow just fine...in fact, much better than "fine".
HOWEVER, it never hurts to have a few organic liquid fertilizers or preferably brew your own ACT just in case you need a bump or want to try to push things a touch harder. Of course it is true that you can get higher yields using the NSPB: FLF in conjunction with another liquid fertilizer....pushing the plant, getting "better performance" by some standards. However, when dealing with what is to be medicine for many, yield is never the only factor worth while to factor. Purity and accurate gene representation are in my personal opinion a much worthier pursuit to achieve consistently.
When you find a plant that hits bumper harvests in a true organic water only approach, you certainly know that this plant can perform differently (better by conventional standards) in a more commercially oriented production manner. When you push a plant to perform to a given feeding regimen it will in time adapt and adjust to perform at its very best given what is present to ensure it's survival. This is in part you see so many people with different results on the very same clone as well. Their source cut feeds one way and their cut has adjusted to this cycle over time. When shared and introduced to a new feeding formula...keep in mind this is all in regards to environmental changes, this is just the environment surrounding the root zone...the plant doesn't respond the same or as well initially because it has to reprogram itself in sorts.
This can be completely avoided by allowing a plant to pick and choose for itself what is best for it. This option of choice on the plants part can only be achieved if you have a diversely amended medium that takes into consideration all different aspects of plant nutrition, disease resistance, and natures' very own production and growth "additives".
Just remember this...every single product you see being offered to you via a bottled nutrient manufacturer, are produced, because these results are known to be achievable as they were first witnessed in nature...happening all by themselves.
NSPB
HOWEVER, it never hurts to have a few organic liquid fertilizers or preferably brew your own ACT just in case you need a bump or want to try to push things a touch harder. Of course it is true that you can get higher yields using the NSPB: FLF in conjunction with another liquid fertilizer....pushing the plant, getting "better performance" by some standards. However, when dealing with what is to be medicine for many, yield is never the only factor worth while to factor. Purity and accurate gene representation are in my personal opinion a much worthier pursuit to achieve consistently.
When you find a plant that hits bumper harvests in a true organic water only approach, you certainly know that this plant can perform differently (better by conventional standards) in a more commercially oriented production manner. When you push a plant to perform to a given feeding regimen it will in time adapt and adjust to perform at its very best given what is present to ensure it's survival. This is in part you see so many people with different results on the very same clone as well. Their source cut feeds one way and their cut has adjusted to this cycle over time. When shared and introduced to a new feeding formula...keep in mind this is all in regards to environmental changes, this is just the environment surrounding the root zone...the plant doesn't respond the same or as well initially because it has to reprogram itself in sorts.
This can be completely avoided by allowing a plant to pick and choose for itself what is best for it. This option of choice on the plants part can only be achieved if you have a diversely amended medium that takes into consideration all different aspects of plant nutrition, disease resistance, and natures' very own production and growth "additives".
Just remember this...every single product you see being offered to you via a bottled nutrient manufacturer, are produced, because these results are known to be achievable as they were first witnessed in nature...happening all by themselves.
NSPB
S
schwagg
just leave it alone and let it die off. when it pops in the spring it's a good time to drop some taters in the ground. does great in the PNW.
Nice Thread !!!
NSPB
Active member
Inspired by LadyLargely and her pics of the fuzz...hehehe!
I have also posted this as people unfamiliar with soil or organics have asked me, "Why is there mold and what do I do...this can't be good!?!"
This is what you want to see while "cooking" your medium prior to use. The top layer of this soil is almost fully dry. This not mold. There is plenty of warmth and a bit of residual condensation as a result...you know for certain this is healthy, happy micro-organisms doing their magic! Nature coming together in function!
These are all from different areas of my base medium amended with 1 bag of NSPB: FLF, that has been sitting for roughly 2 weeks now.
I hope this helps clear up some of the confusion and unrest!
NSPB
I have also posted this as people unfamiliar with soil or organics have asked me, "Why is there mold and what do I do...this can't be good!?!"
This is what you want to see while "cooking" your medium prior to use. The top layer of this soil is almost fully dry. This not mold. There is plenty of warmth and a bit of residual condensation as a result...you know for certain this is healthy, happy micro-organisms doing their magic! Nature coming together in function!
These are all from different areas of my base medium amended with 1 bag of NSPB: FLF, that has been sitting for roughly 2 weeks now.
I hope this helps clear up some of the confusion and unrest!
NSPB
so when can i get some nspb.
I like this!
If one were to be starting new seeds in a couple weeks, would it be advisable to wait for NSPB?
NSPB
Active member
Sorry it took me so long to get a picture of that up Marlo. I know you asked me nearly 6+ wks ago.
BrotherIndica: We are thinking 3wks out. But, there are many things that come into play with this. I'd hate to be responsible for putting you off schedule; there are no rules that say you can't veg in one mix and then flower in another!
In fact, the first time Phillthy did exactly this, if I remember correctly.
NSPB
BrotherIndica: We are thinking 3wks out. But, there are many things that come into play with this. I'd hate to be responsible for putting you off schedule; there are no rules that say you can't veg in one mix and then flower in another!
In fact, the first time Phillthy did exactly this, if I remember correctly.
NSPB
StacksOnDeck
New member
Hey NSPB how about a quality identity? if you like i could design a logo for you.. 5+yrs exp. Graphic Designer here..
ps. im getting ready to give the NSPB FLF a shot..
ps. im getting ready to give the NSPB FLF a shot..
B
bench warmer
Looking forward to this working it's magic in my garden. 
Thanks for putting so much effort and care into the mixture NSPB.
Thanks for putting so much effort and care into the mixture NSPB.
StacksOnDeck
New member
getting ready to mix
getting ready to mix
im holding off on mixing because im still looking for something similar to insect dust. ive had bug issues before and would love to take a tiny precaution now to prevent a disaster later! really really appreciate you guys sharing all this info. im very grateful..
i will start my grow journal soon, i will also be using nutes as well as this super natural soil.. and i will be growing white widows and the cancup winner TahoeOG Kush!
getting ready to mix
im holding off on mixing because im still looking for something similar to insect dust. ive had bug issues before and would love to take a tiny precaution now to prevent a disaster later! really really appreciate you guys sharing all this info. im very grateful..
i will start my grow journal soon, i will also be using nutes as well as this super natural soil.. and i will be growing white widows and the cancup winner TahoeOG Kush!
Any updates? I've been thinking I want to get back into organics again and this is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks.
Kaptain_Kronic
Member
this is going to be perfect for what i want to do!
ive been following marlos thread and have since been looking at going back to soil and doing organics, i would love to use your full life formula in a side by side im putting together.
if i can hold off till i can get your mix you can bet i will. ill run one more hydro if need be (dont wanna switch back to soil until i can do what i want, and thats NSPB FLF)
ive been following marlos thread and have since been looking at going back to soil and doing organics, i would love to use your full life formula in a side by side im putting together.
if i can hold off till i can get your mix you can bet i will. ill run one more hydro if need be (dont wanna switch back to soil until i can do what i want, and thats NSPB FLF)
Kaptain_Kronic
Member
Soil Mix:
4 gallons local organic potting soil (no base nutrient value)
1.5 gallons peat
1.5 gallons coir
3 gallons perlite
1 gallon EWC
Usually, I just blend the soil in 11 gallon batches (roughly 1.5 cubic ft.) and then amend with the following list:
alfalfa meal
azomite
beneficial bacterias
blood meal
bone meal
diatomaceous earth
dolomite lime
dry molasses
worm castings
greensand
guanos (N, P, seabird)
kelp meal
leonardite
rice flour
yucca
This "cooks" for two weeks and is then ready to be used for the full life (veg and flower only, too hot for starting seeds or seedlings) of the plant by just watering. However, I do use just the plain soil mix for starting seeds. A strong rooted clone can be placed directly into the full mix though...
Anyway...this is what I use for now...
NSPB
thought i would throw a few into flower with the NSPB Full Life Formula. this was mixed the following way...
1 bail Promix BX
2 bags Fox Farm Ocean Forest
1.5 bags NSPB Full Life Formula
thats it! will water from here on out.
1 sourbubble, 5 bkgk, 1 pre98 bubba (not pictured)
running clones vegged the same time in the same mix along side of these in flower using my previous mix as comparison.
i really like the simplicity of philthys soil mix.
is there a concrete amount of soil that the bag fertalizes? or is that something that is still be be determined? i ask because i see that NSPB used 11g soil for a bag, but philthy used 60g soil for 2 bags?
maybe i just missed something though.
NSPB
Active member
The difference comes in the fact that FFOF is a pre-amended soil. It has "food" in it already. If you were to mix the NSPB into FFOF, you would certainly have way too strong of a soil. Phillthy uses 1/2 bale pro-mix, which isn't fertilized, to cut and balance the strength, essentially. (not stating this is his reasoning for using such products, simply stating how it works...)
When I use the 11g soil mix that mix has ZERO base nutrients. It is fully unfertilized. Thus, why 1 bag NSPB would FULLY amend 11g in this scenario.
In reality, it was designed to amended 1.5 cu ft of unfertilized soil. This is because your standard bag of nursery / organic potting soil is 40# or roughly 1.5 cu ft. It was intended to be an ease of use concept.
But seeing how others have successfully incorporated it into their own current mediums / concepts and methods just speaks to the flexibility and consistency of a well design ORGANIC feeding program....look any where in the organic soil forums and you will see an extremely broad range of concepts that are producing wonderfully amazing results...that is the benefit of a healthy soil ecology which is achieved via these methods.
Dan - Thanks for the continued interest...it feels like this is an automated response now...lol!
But truthfully, I am getting thing together ... taking more time that I want obviously..but dotting "i" and crossing "t" is more important that I would have initially wanted to think or admit. All sorts of regulations...I am probably going to have to remove any reference to calling the product "organic" due to a lack of money to get certification. That means I have to change all current labels...
Stupid things like this have cost me money and time I wasn't anticipating...welcome to the game...
But not stopping...by any means. I'm committed to seeing this trough...I'm sorry for the delays in anyone's gardening schedule who was anticipating using the mix in a more immediate time frame.
NSPB
