my soil is COOKING almost killed plants help!
- Thread starter Maina
- Start date
J
JackTheGrower
I think he was saying that at the very base of plant nutrient there is no difference between the ions.
At least that is what I gathered.
Is that correct Tom?
J
JackTheGrower
My my...
I expected something smaller.. LOL
Hell let it heat up turn it a few times and then get to work!
Wow you have a nice location. Is there room for me to pitch a tent.. I'm ready.
Just bring some food when you visit.
So what did you decide? After all you sure have a few wanting to offer advice including me.. It's on you to decide.
Well I had all the plants in one gallon pots when they went in but with the soil hot I put each plant into a 10 gallon tub they will be in them for 9 days and then the will go in the big pots 5 50 gallon 3 100 gallon.And then I will see how it goes it realy is a great spot they will get sun 11-13 hours of sun light all day long they fac south and there is no trees blocking the sun.Good sun good food good pots and white widoe,lsd,sweet tooth indinca stativa mix I would like them to get big
J
JackTheGrower
The bio-activity will drop off. Too bad you don't have a compost thermometer I would love to know center temps..
So it is just a wait game if you are happy with your mix. I doubt you have anything too far out of line.
Tom suggested letting things sit and I was saying add more carbon either way at some point there will be a balance in the microbial populations soon.
So it looks great! You could do a grow diary..
I don't know what else to say. You had an active compost pile even though it is a soil mix.
Composting is the basis for my system of soil improvement and management.
I feel firing things up is an excellent way to speed availability of things like bone meal and green sand.
All I wanted was to share how you were in a position to process more carbon dominate materials.
You should try rice in that mix of yours.. Talk about composting power.
So it is just a wait game if you are happy with your mix. I doubt you have anything too far out of line.
Tom suggested letting things sit and I was saying add more carbon either way at some point there will be a balance in the microbial populations soon.
So it looks great! You could do a grow diary..
I don't know what else to say. You had an active compost pile even though it is a soil mix.
Composting is the basis for my system of soil improvement and management.
I feel firing things up is an excellent way to speed availability of things like bone meal and green sand.
All I wanted was to share how you were in a position to process more carbon dominate materials.
You should try rice in that mix of yours.. Talk about composting power.
Stoned Crow
Member
SC
Slightly Composted or incompletely composted chicken manure is HOT. Composted chicken is only slightly better.
When it comes to manure, I always use fully composted and tested product and I always mix chicken & steer. Not as hot and less likely to burn.
Or better yet, eliminate the chicken altogether. Straight chicken has always caused as many problems as it cured in my experience.
I only apply composted chicken in the dead of winter (dec or early jan) which means it is doing it's thing in the soil for 2 or 3 months before root flush. If you did not give it at least this amount of time, a few months to break down in the soil then you are playing with fire. My experience is in using 5 to 10 tons of manure per acre per year for over 30 years.
Too much risk with too little reward on this crop IMO.
Oh yeah, check for zinc deficiency now also because chicken WILL tie up all available zinc in the soil. When I use it I know I will need to apply up to 25 lbs. per acre of "neutral zinc" per acre via foliar.... for the next several years.
When it comes to manure, I always use fully composted and tested product and I always mix chicken & steer. Not as hot and less likely to burn.
Or better yet, eliminate the chicken altogether. Straight chicken has always caused as many problems as it cured in my experience.
I only apply composted chicken in the dead of winter (dec or early jan) which means it is doing it's thing in the soil for 2 or 3 months before root flush. If you did not give it at least this amount of time, a few months to break down in the soil then you are playing with fire. My experience is in using 5 to 10 tons of manure per acre per year for over 30 years.
Too much risk with too little reward on this crop IMO.
Oh yeah, check for zinc deficiency now also because chicken WILL tie up all available zinc in the soil. When I use it I know I will need to apply up to 25 lbs. per acre of "neutral zinc" per acre via foliar.... for the next several years.
This was just coining a phrase and making a joke, Jack.
i remember years back using "composted chicken manure" from the bag - then wondering what was wrong
for all i could figure it was zinc (but i wondered till now) and i recall then i thought maybe some galvanized nails in my mix might help (never tried)
now it all makes sense
FWIW, once ran through my outdoor pile and used on the outdoor garden, no problems arose (of course, the application rate would have been FAR less)
J
JackTheGrower
Pardon , I'm slow.
J
JackTheGrower
"Roed"
I doubt you meant return on investment or fish eggs so I assume you mean Red Wood.
I'm not a fan of red wood in a soil mix for cannabis. I do not recommend adding red wood.
What I meant is the decay of a fallen pine tree if there was one around.
Adding wood chips or shavings is a long term carbon. Do a little reading on composting materials. That has been the aim of my replies but it will help us to learn more if we are more familiar with the process and materials.
You may get the composting bug and try a mix in the future but it seems like you are already set up and it's a hard thing to change plans mid game.
I'm guessing the temps are way down now.
How are your containers?
I doubt you meant return on investment or fish eggs so I assume you mean Red Wood.
I'm not a fan of red wood in a soil mix for cannabis. I do not recommend adding red wood.
What I meant is the decay of a fallen pine tree if there was one around.
Adding wood chips or shavings is a long term carbon. Do a little reading on composting materials. That has been the aim of my replies but it will help us to learn more if we are more familiar with the process and materials.
You may get the composting bug and try a mix in the future but it seems like you are already set up and it's a hard thing to change plans mid game.
I'm guessing the temps are way down now.
How are your containers?
Its neather its SPRUCE will that work to hold water its broken down but I want it to hold water in my soil will it mess uo the PH?
J
JackTheGrower
Reasonable materials in reasonable amounts.
The pH will stabilize as the biology works it's soil magic.
What Organic soil gardeners find is that small shifts in pH due to new materials are not a problem.
I have not used Spruce. But lucky me there are some articles.
http://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...serid=10&md5=e97529a03490a21c65aba294dc4d1d57
http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/facts/COMPOST.HTM
When we add wood we will use up nitrogen through the biological actions of the micro-organisms.
Also everything we do adds up to better garden conditions.
Keeping the sun off the soil containers is helpful so using a reflective material around the planter will keep temperatures down and slow evaporation.
So yes some wood will be helpful and too much will cause nitrogen use to go up.
If you are interested there are other things that help with water storage. I remember reading about some material that held water but I don't remember what that was called.. Lucky me http://www.watercrystals.com/
So yes we can use Spruce in our compost and soil mixes but that is more about soil structure and biology than idea water retention.
Does this help?
