My 1st basement grow 12 bucket dwc

[plumpm0nkey]

Jesus im almost starting to feel dumb for jumping into hydro and not even looking into proper soil grows. I skimmed blazes thread and he makes it look so clean. You are so right, there is so much more room for soil plants Vs. buckets and i think its alot easier. NO water temps to worry about or root rot , ect. Does hydro grow faster than soil? if its not much difference i might go soil aswell and sell the bucket system and use that money on rails and lights. I will be watching your soil thread closely. My plants are hitting about 3' or higher?? ill grab an exact measurement when i flip the lights. But they are pretty high. My roots have gotten extremly thick since ive been adding hydrogen peroxide.

 

[kovenant]

blazeoneup makes everything look easy im excited about this soil grow - i had a good run with hydro though too. just a couple more days and it will all be over.

Does hydro grow faster than soil?

yes and no - blaze summed it up good on his soil thread. he thinks both are pretty equal in production. some people tend to grow better in soil, some in hydro. blazeoneup started both at the same time and doesnt have a preference.

personally, id say hydro you can veg and get quicker/bigger results. in hydro i could veg the girls 1 or 2 weeks (7-14 days).... going to have to veg at least 20-30 days to accomplish the same in soil.

you can affect your plants easier/quicker in hydro too, from my understanding. i really enjoyed hydro. i just feel that in the small space i have - if i want to maximize my grow... i can get more plants under lights if i pull all the extra stuff out of the hydro system in exchange for space - to grow more plants (for example pulling out the res, water chiller, air pumps, etc - and using that space for plants.)

you asked in my thread-

so what should i do to switch over my grow? shoudl i flush the water or keep adding fresh water before i add flower nute . any advice is soo welcome

when you say switch over, im assuming you mean into flower. wow - i didnt realize you vegged for so long. that one girl is extremely larger than the others... and she's gonna keep growing in flower for a few more weeks - she will probably grow 1/3 taller.

so what you're gonna want to do along with switching to 12/12 is begin your flower nutes. good thing you've got your roots handled and looking clean. you will want to ease off using the h2o2 as this also kills helpful bacteria along with the bad ones... unless you dont mind im not sure if you are using root excellerator, or any type of enzyme (like multi-zyme or sensizym) cause if so the h2o2 makes them pretty ineffective.

i tried my lights around 1' above the canopy but got some heat stress and light bleaching... 18" worked better for me. ill be able to drop it much closer once the new crop goes under the light movers.

so... switch to 12/12. switch to flower bulbs if able (red spectrum bulbs.) and begin adding flower nutes. the added phosphorus in flower nutes helps trigger the plants to knowing its flower time (along with the light cycle switching to 12/12.) you will also want to watch your ppm/EC level when switching over to flower nutes. for example... if you are currently running at 1200ppm with your veg (grow) nutes - you will still need to ease into the phosphorus/flower nutes... like 600 or 800, id say - and then work your way back up to 1200 (im just assuming you are running your veg nutes that high.)

ask if you have more questions.

 

[plumpm0nkey]

well i turned off the lights last night at 11pm and planning for 36 hours of darkness. im running 2 400watt MH, those are not good enough for flower?

seems like the ppm meter is off the chart it says 1 0 , i need to call hanna to ask them about that. but ive been adding fresh well water in and the Ph is 6.5 steady with a room temp of 70- 73 degrees.

i really dont want to **** up and hope everything goes smoothe.

If anyone lives in cen cali , ill give them a tatse of the final product

 

[plumpm0nkey]

day 2 of flower

i think i veg'ed for about 8 weeks 24hr

pretty soon i will be sectiong off the room with a mini room to house my mother plant and clone from her and veg for 2 weeks in a ebbflow tray. then put them in the buckets for 8 weeks for flower. i hope to use a scrog along with this system.

 

[NZjay]

awesome plump! yup 800watts of MH is fine.

down the track, look into getting 2 x 600watt HPS. it will be worth it, i promise.

other than that, awesome! keep up the good work!

by the way, might be wise to trim off any lower branches that look like the are not getting enough light (like in your 2nd pic there, the back bucket with the limb hanging out the side).

also, cleanliness is key to a sucessfull flower period. you wanna pick up all those dead leaves on the floor, and give a quick clean. if you do a little a day, its easy to keep a grow room clean.

decaying leaves on the floor is asking for mold/mildew, thrips and spidermites..(along with many others) all of which will kill plants/make you harvest early/lose final weight.

gotta love ya plants, or they dont love you.

 

[Guest]

NZJAY said it best

NZJAY said it best

looks good, my opinion and experience is hydro is good and fast but nothing can replace outside in the el natural soil and sun..... best stuff in the world but its kinda hard to inc. both but can be done.Everyone has there own way so try and do all and u will find whats best 4 u sit back and enjoy it.

 

[plumpm0nkey]

finally bought some dutchmaster A/B

and kool bloom

 

[plumpm0nkey]

anyone?

 

[Guest]

PLUMPMONKEY, HEY DUDE TIGHT WORK !!!! WHAT KIND OF YIELDS YOU THINK !

 

[plumpm0nkey]

i dont know, any guesses? 1 pound? i havnt really thought about the quanity, mainly the quality. I started building the Veg room. Its lookin bad ass pro style.
It will house the mother and clones along with veg'n for 2 weeks in the room and 8 in the main.

 

[kovenant]

looking really good plump. i didnt realize you were cen cal - we should meet. we can exchange samples

looks like you have it all covered. did you have questions about anything? wow - you sure vegged forever you're gonna have trees come harvest time. the only i see with that is you are using 400s through the entire grow, correct? if so... no light penetration on those. i use one in my pre-veg/mom room, but the light really cant get through the canopy - especially with large plants and in the flower stage when they really thicken up. i have 600s in my flower room -and wish i had 1000s.

i would really take the advice to trim off the lower branches (i think NZJay mentioned this too.) otherwise they just wont get the light to develop and will suck away nutrients and plant-energy from the top.

im actually heading to the fresno area next monday... pm me if you're anywhere near it.

and feel free to continue to ask if you have any questions. looking good though man! i'd say with trees like that you may pull a pound. depends on how you use your environment to benefit you (them.)

cheers!

 

[gmanwho]

Hey plum: Just a quick comment on that GH liquid kool bloom. If i remember correctly, the liquid was for early flower and the powder as for late bloom. Check the label on the liquid, i believe it states early flower. ? ? ?

let me know if im wrong, i use the powder from early to late, just start at 75-100 additional ppm early. Then 150 or so late flower, a little goes ALONG way. Sometimes too much.


Looking good, B-safe

 

[plumpm0nkey]

The Kool Bloom im pretty sure is through entire flower not a 2 stage.

I Just picked up the convertion bulb so im running 2 400 hps 1 Mh 400. the plants seem to enjoy the mh in there. i have 6 50watt hps floor lights that can take care of the under growth but i i dont wana wire up all of that shit. The 2nd room is prebuilt and will be finished this weekend. ( pics to come ) everythign is up even a door. just need to throw up locks and foam the cracks and put shelfs on the wall. Drive some concrete screws to anchor the top and run the ducting, hand lights ect. It will be a pimp veg room. BUt as far ad the undergrowth ive been holding off on trimming them bc of using them for clones. as soon as the room is built ill try and pray for clones. the dutchmaster is kickin ass aswell.. i need to spary some neem to kill those ****n thripes. almost thinking about using a special bomber that are plant safe just to get rid of those ****ers. I never asked my hydro guy but how can they **** up your grow besides makes your leaves look like shit? Anywhoooo I wonder if its possible to mail clones?? in a cylinder or something

Much love for the comments

 

[gmanwho]

kool bloom & clones

kool bloom & clones

Plum: Not arguing, but im almost 100% certain about the liquid claimed by GH (on the label or web site, i remember reading it) to be used in early stages, then powder later. Liquid = early, powder = middle & late stages. Im sure you can use it throughout, but it is in lower concentration. Lower concentration may be easier not to overdue, but to each is own. Sure it will owrk either way.

In anycase mailing clones, yes, they key thing is to keep the lower root section wether its rockwool or soil stable. Stable that it does not move arround within its container.

2 solo cups and strong tape, take scissors cut a slice from the rim of the cup down to the bottom, then continue to the center of the bottom of the cup, cut a 1/2 hole in center. retrace the cut from top to bottom then to center cutting off a sliver more of cup ( makes it easier to slide clone in). then take the clone, tip it horizontal and slide the stem closest to base and slide it so the leaf & all nodes are inside the cup, and the base is outside, slide it down all the way and into the center. So now when u loook at the cup, all see is rockwool cube sticking out of the bottom of the solo.

Place that into another solo cup. But before you do, MAKE SURE TO ADD SOME TYPE OF PACKING ARROUND THE ROCKWOOL, so it doesnt bounce arround( it will break the stem if the packing comes loose, to roockwoll is heavy). EVEN tape the rockwool to the bottom of the solo. DOnt be affraid to use the duct tape. It wont stick to the meddium but to the cups, so put some tension on that tape to help hold it against the bottom of the cup.

then tape the top of the 2 cups together. When and if you pack multiple in a box, make sure they are stable in the box, duct tape them to the sides of the box and use newspaper, bubblewrap, whatever you can to not make those cups NOT move. you do not want the cups to come loose and move there way towards each other ( they have a way of moving towards each other and staking inside one another) especially cause of the fact that the wet meddium makes the cup heavily offset to the bottom side.

you can also use 1liter bottles as well, same method.

3500 miles they traveled like this before. All survived, 2 barely did cause the rockwool came loose and broke the stem, but recloned them. 12 to be exact.

Hope i explained myself ok, sometimes i cant get my words out clear enough. KEY thing is to make sure the meddium does not come loose.


Cant wait to see your new room in action.

B-safe

 

[plumpm0nkey]

i am 100% positive that its for entire flower . how do i know this? I READ IT on the label :0

i ****n hate thripes, gave a good spray of neem under the leaves . then my lungs got ****ed up from inhaling the shit. that killed my day. but thats what i get for not having proper ventilation.

everything is lookin great.

 

[NZjay]

sorry to hear about those basterd Thrips!

i recently had them (well.. couple years ago), but have since got rid of the little basterds.
i used a combo of things...

1st: the yellow sticky bug strips. MAKE SURE THEY ARE YELLOW. Thrips are attracted to yellow. i give MAIN credit to these strips helping me erradicate my thrip problem. i had 2 stips.. and in about 4 days.. they were COVERED in the little basterds!
needless to say, more were purchased. now i have them in all my rooms, as a preventitive. havnt had a thrip on them since.

2nd: neems oil. while this stuff works, once you are in flowering, and you see buds, DO NOT USE THIS. youll burn ya buds (to death) , and wipe out ANY yield you may have. if you are still in veg, neems is still a big job. you do realise how tiny thrips are right?... you really think you can spray under every leaf in your garden?....
if you think you can once... be prepared to do it 2-3 times over. Thrips are persistant little basterds!

3rd: preventative: a Sulfur Burner. since i purchased a Burner, i havnt had MOLD, no BUGs, and certainly no thrips. you ONLY burn in veg a couple times, it lays a thin sulfur layer on your leaves. Bugs dont like it. and mold cannot grow on it.
the shit... rocks.

Of course, the best and cheapest preventative is Cleaniness. i hope you picked those dead leaves up off the floor and trim away any branches/leaves that are not getting light. this is the plant matter that gets attacked first, and could easily be the reason why you have thrips to start with.

Weed is a hearty plant, with many natural defenses. but it must be healthy, to stay healthy in my experiance.

either way, i hate those ****ers as much as you do... im just glad ill never deal with them again.

GL PMonkey!!

 

[gmanwho]

Koolbloom

Koolbloom

Check out the link directly to GH

www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/liquidkoolbloom.html

Just stating there recomendations.

Best of luck.

 

[plumpm0nkey]

gmanwho- hey thanks man, i will remember that, it said nothing about that on the bottle.

Nzjay- Yes everything is clean off the floor. Next time around i will have more preventive and combat solutions for those ****n bugs. i will pick up some sticky s now and i will STOP neem spraying. i was spraying once a week. i had no idea it was only veg. anything i can spray during flower?

the veg room is now light proofed thanks to 2 cans of foam. Just need to install lights and shelves and plastic on the floor.

 

[stretchpup]

Damn dude, rock on!

Nice trees...

 

[NZjay]

how bad is the infestation right now?...

i mean.. your leaves are showing the scars right?... and if you turn over your leaf, is there a shit load of thrips there?....

if so, i would go in with a paper towel saturated in neems, and wipe the underside of the leaf.

i dont like spraying anything in flower... prolly just me though.
someone else may know of something for you to be able to spray for those thrips.

but i would run out and get a bunch of those yellow stickys.
cheap, easy and no chemicals. they are attracted to the yellow, get stuck, and then are easy to dispose of your victims

if you get some, put them on your buckets underneath your plants.

but it all depends on how bad you have them.. the yellow stickys maybe all you need..

got any pics?