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MKIVc question

The fastest way I've found to purge, is to run at the temperature that the puddle melts. Unless the surface is melted, the bubbles can't readily escape.

so I will pour and let sit in oven and get to temps first then vac...usually it will bubble furiously then calm to nothing and stay glassy...I will up the temps and report back...Thank you
 
I ordered my mats from a brand called Keenovo with built in velcro straps as well as thermostats :). Here is my parts list for an MK4c from them:
Size:9" X 34"
Power:900W @ 110V
Accessories:
1) 1.5m power wire,exit from short side
2) Velcro straps on long side
3) built-in thermostat of 50 C
US$99.50

Size:12.5" X 46"
Power:1000W @ 110V
Accessories:
1) 1.5m power wire,exit from short side
2) Velcro straps on long side
3) built-in thermostat of 50 C
US$185.50

Size: Diameter of 250mm
Power:1000W @ 110V
Accessories:
1) 1.5m power wire
2) 3M adhesive backing
3) Built-in thermostat of 40 C
US$31.50

Hope it helps!

This is awesome! Thanks bro!:woohoo:
 
so if I am running a 3"x36" spool I should need like a 3.5"x34" silicone mat? not sure what the outside diameter is on a 3" spool but your not supposed to overlap them right?
 

MrSpectre

Member
Yep the first mat is for the terpp's 3"x36" (2lb) material column and the second is for the 4"x48" (5lb) material column and the last one is for my shatter platter. For purging pour onto parchment and give yourself a bit of room around the oil. Start in the oven at 95F and pull a full vac to create a "muffin" this will thin out the oil as far as it can go and increase the efficiency of purging thin film method. After about 24 hours pull the slab out and cool it down and try and flip the slab of oil onto the other side and it will bubble up again. I usually slowly increase the temp until all of the bubbles drop and stop forming. Note that every time you flip you will be adding air between the slab and parchment and it will create bubbles regardless if there is solvent left in the oil. Don't go above 115F under full vac ideally and shoot for about 48-72 hours total purge time. Good luck brotha.

@710st
 

Gray Wolf

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Thank you GW you're helping me more than you know brotha! I will do exactly this and let you know the outcome for me....do you still give classes up in portland? Im in Medford and would love to go up there and go through one of your classes. Let me know bud, I was talking to bizzybee and he offered to let me do a sit in but im not running his machine...would love to tho, just no cash like that yet...but you run an mk so it would make more sense to go through your class first. THX

Solly no, but Eloquentsolution gives public and private classes and Pharmer Joe does private classes, both from extraction through finishing. They both have Mk IV's, which they use in their businesses. Check your PM for contact info.

WolfWurx throws in private classes with their machines, which I still teach, but their machines are simply based on the Mk IV or V central Terpenator kit, with the balance being a fully engineered turnkey system.

As such, it has features not found on base Mk IV's, so is less applicable, but once WolfWurx is through with reorganization, they may offer public classes. I may participate in those, training some replacements, but this tattered old gray wolf is trying to wind down, not up.
 

Gray Wolf

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Brother, I think you wound up enough of us to be able to sit back and watch all your students spin ... I know I am :tiphat:

Hee, hee, hee, watching all the new stuff my kindred spirited students come up with, adds new meaning to the saying, "Where have they gone? I must hasten to follow them, for I am their leader."

Perhaps I should add that to my signature...........
 
We heat the columns to 150F and recover them separately from the lower tank, so as to not pass hot butane through our cold extraction.

We use either 5W per square inch silicone heat mats, or jacketed columns and hot water.

How would you recover seperately? pull shatter platter and replace and heat column and recover with heat then boil off tane? would you lock remaining gas in column....heat...re vac the collection chamber after harvest of normal oil and then recover?

I ordered my mats from a brand called Keenovo with built in velcro straps as well as thermostats :). Here is my parts list for an MK4c from them:
Size:9" X 34"
Power:900W @ 110V
Accessories:
1) 1.5m power wire,exit from short side
2) Velcro straps on long side
3) built-in thermostat of 50 C
US$99.50

Size:12.5" X 46"
Power:1000W @ 110V
Accessories:
1) 1.5m power wire,exit from short side
2) Velcro straps on long side
3) built-in thermostat of 50 C
US$185.50

Size: Diameter of 250mm
Power:1000W @ 110V
Accessories:
1) 1.5m power wire
2) 3M adhesive backing
3) Built-in thermostat of 40 C
US$31.50

Hope it helps!

Thanks bud Im going to get on this, great advice! Did you have to specialty order those size mats? Keenovo seems to only be special order unless you order from 3rd party. THX

The fastest way I've found to purge, is to run at the temperature that the puddle melts. Unless the surface is melted, the bubbles can't readily escape.

I have upped the temps so far to 95F and the oil will melt down to a glassy puddle but not keep boiling...I get scared of any nucleation...am I being paranoid or won't temps up in 100 and higher cause nucleation?



Other than that my runs are at around 13% and higher right now so I thank all of you for helping me get this machine into beast mode! Its made my customers super happy!:tiphat:
 

Gray Wolf

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How would you recover seperately? pull shatter platter and replace and heat column and recover with heat then boil off tane? would you lock remaining gas in column....heat...re vac the collection chamber after harvest of normal oil and then recover?



I have upped the temps so far to 95F and the oil will melt down to a glassy puddle but not keep boiling...I get scared of any nucleation...am I being paranoid or won't temps up in 100 and higher cause nucleation?



Other than that my runs are at around 13% and higher right now so I thank all of you for helping me get this machine into beast mode! Its made my customers super happy!:tiphat:

We recover the columns separately from the pot by closing the column dump and vent valve, and opening a valve opening an evacuation port in the column.

We heat the column to 150F to help drive off the butane soaked into the material, and evacuate it -22" HG, before back filling with Nitrogen and evacuating again to -29.5" Hg.

Every puddle has a temperature where it turns from a solid, to a fully molten liquid. At that temperature, the surface tension drops to the point that molecules hitting an angles less than 90 degrees can escape, rather than ricocheting off of it.

Once you reach that temperature, no more heat is required and you can work on the other issue, which is the weight of the atmosphere preventing those molecules from breaking the surface.

Not to forget that some of those molecules are water, which aren't above their boiling point and need coaxing.

As I vacuum down, I stop everytime the puddle goes wild and hold at that vacuum level until the flurry stops, before pulling down further.

When I pull down to -29.5" Hg and the flurries stop, I don't continue to pump, I flip it, which will cause it to flurry again.

When I can't get it to flurry, I continue to pump at -29.5" until all solvent bubbles cease, and then pull it out.

I typically make shatter/pull and snap, and seldom get buttering.

Not getting buttering starts before the vacuum oven.

Water and plant wax content strongly affect it, so I typically extract subzero, with butane that I've run through a drier.

I typically purge out most of the butane in the recovery pot, by fluffing the extraction into foam/cotton candy, and purging it in that state. Foam is a bunch of bubbles with gossamer thin walls.

I then purge that in thin films in the vacuum oven, but by then much of the preventive care is past.

Good job on upping your yield!
 
We recover the columns separately from the pot by closing the column dump and vent valve, and opening a valve opening an evacuation port in the column.

We heat the column to 150F to help drive off the butane soaked into the material, and evacuate it -22" HG, before back filling with Nitrogen and evacuating again to -29.5" Hg.

Every puddle has a temperature where it turns from a solid, to a fully molten liquid. At that temperature, the surface tension drops to the point that molecules hitting an angles less than 90 degrees can escape, rather than ricocheting off of it.

Once you reach that temperature, no more heat is required and you can work on the other issue, which is the weight of the atmosphere preventing those molecules from breaking the surface.

Not to forget that some of those molecules are water, which aren't above their boiling point and need coaxing.

As I vacuum down, I stop everytime the puddle goes wild and hold at that vacuum level until the flurry stops, before pulling down further.

When I pull down to -29.5" Hg and the flurries stop, I don't continue to pump, I flip it, which will cause it to flurry again.

When I can't get it to flurry, I continue to pump at -29.5" until all solvent bubbles cease, and then pull it out.

I typically make shatter/pull and snap, and seldom get buttering.

Not getting buttering starts before the vacuum oven.

Water and plant wax content strongly affect it, so I typically extract subzero, with butane that I've run through a drier.

I typically purge out most of the butane in the recovery pot, by fluffing the extraction into foam/cotton candy, and purging it in that state. Foam is a bunch of bubbles with gossamer thin walls.

I then purge that in thin films in the vacuum oven, but by then much of the preventive care is past.

Good job on upping your yield!

THX GW upping my yields has done me really well and I really appreciate the help!

I don't have access to nitrogen gas at the minute so would I be able to just pull with my TRS21 to about -15hg and then hook up my Welch pump to take the collection to the full -29.9hg to get to that cotton candy state? Is your heat on the collection 85 degrees when doing this or hotter?

Now when using a drier for the tane I use the driers that Terpps sell untill I can afford to build a molecular sieve...this filter should trap most water right? I have it connected to the TRS21 from the recovery port so that it brings vapor in through the filter and not liquid...right?

I would much rather make the cotton candy every run and then melt it all down in the oven, it seems to be the most reliable way to get the oil more stable....just only seem to do it with a more propane dominate mix...but maybe that was because I was using an IronFist and no sight glasses and passive, makes it real hard with no sight glasses to see if your getting a fluff. I am currently running about a 70/30 mix butane dominate, I guess Im nervious to run the TRS21 to much past -15hg and if I can get the welch to pull it then it would probably get it to pull to fluff..maybe?
 

Gray Wolf

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THX GW upping my yields has done me really well and I really appreciate the help!

I don't have access to nitrogen gas at the minute so would I be able to just pull with my TRS21 to about -15hg and then hook up my Welch pump to take the collection to the full -29.9hg to get to that cotton candy state?

Yes.

Is your heat on the collection 85 degrees when doing this or hotter?

~60 to 85F

Now when using a drier for the tane I use the driers that Terpps sell untill I can afford to build a molecular sieve...this filter should trap most water right? I have it connected to the TRS21 from the recovery port so that it brings vapor in through the filter and not liquid...right?

Yes. We are now using a foreline trap using filter drier inserts, instead of mol sieve, to bypass dust.

I would much rather make the cotton candy every run and then melt it all down in the oven, it seems to be the most reliable way to get the oil more stable....just only seem to do it with a more propane dominate mix...but maybe that was because I was using an IronFist and no sight glasses and passive, makes it real hard with no sight glasses to see if your getting a fluff. I am currently running about a 70/30 mix butane dominate, I guess Im nervious to run the TRS21 to much past -15hg and if I can get the welch to pull it then it would probably get it to pull to fluff..maybe?

Yeah, seeing what you're doing helps a lot!

Bon appetite!
 
Greetings GW,

Any idea on when WW will have the new cyclone filters ready for sale or possible lead times? Are they going to be offered by WW or are they only going to be used on their in house designs? Do you know if I can order one now?

Thanks brother! :tiphat:
 

BigJohnny

Member


What is the tube that's on the wall and what is it connected to?

More importantly, how do you have it hung/mounted to the wall like that? I'm curious because I want some way to store my columns hanging on the wall like that.
 

Gray Wolf

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Greetings GW,

Any idea on when WW will have the new cyclone filters ready for sale or possible lead times? Are they going to be offered by WW or are they only going to be used on their in house designs? Do you know if I can order one now?

Thanks brother! :tiphat:

They are currently out for competitive bid on the machining and welding, so I would guess about a month.

They will be on all the WW systems and offered stand alone for other systems.

Don't know about preorders. I'll send you contact information via PM and you can ask.
 
What is the tube that's on the wall and what is it connected to?

More importantly, how do you have it hung/mounted to the wall like that? I'm curious because I want some way to store my columns hanging on the wall like that.


Im pretty sure its called a sanitary spool clamp, they are originally made to suspend the spool overhead supporting it, but I modified it by taking out the hanging hardware and put a lag bolt thru it so I could hang it vertically...they run about $50 apiece.
 

BigJohnny

Member
We recover the columns separately from the pot by closing the column dump and vent valve, and opening a valve opening an evacuation port in the column.

We heat the column to 150F to help drive off the butane soaked into the material, and evacuate it -22" HG, before back filling with Nitrogen and evacuating again to -29.5" Hg.

Every puddle has a temperature where it turns from a solid, to a fully molten liquid. At that temperature, the surface tension drops to the point that molecules hitting an angles less than 90 degrees can escape, rather than ricocheting off of it.

Once you reach that temperature, no more heat is required and you can work on the other issue, which is the weight of the atmosphere preventing those molecules from breaking the surface.

Not to forget that some of those molecules are water, which aren't above their boiling point and need coaxing.

As I vacuum down, I stop everytime the puddle goes wild and hold at that vacuum level until the flurry stops, before pulling down further.

When I pull down to -29.5" Hg and the flurries stop, I don't continue to pump, I flip it, which will cause it to flurry again.

When I can't get it to flurry, I continue to pump at -29.5" until all solvent bubbles cease, and then pull it out.


I don't fully understand your method but that's probably because I'm very visual and can't see it.

What I would really like to know is how do you heat your column? You're using a silicone heating pad or something right? Where do you buy them?
 

Gray Wolf

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I don't fully understand your method but that's probably because I'm very visual and can't see it.

What I would really like to know is how do you heat your column? You're using a silicone heating pad or something right? Where do you buy them?


Two different ways. One with heat pads and the other with hot water.

We have our heat pads made in China.
 

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