seeding: 24-30''Hanging distance of sp150? What you recommend?
hey, bud, sorry to hear that. have you reached out to [email protected]? it is the official marshydro warranty email. You will need to show some proofs that can show the light issue, and the warranty team will help you.Care must be taken when considering Mars Hydro for an LED lamp. I WAS a big fan. But recently my young less than 1500 hours TS3000 is no longer reliable or safe. It has connectivity problems with the cabling connections. I have reached out to Mars Hydro but they areca joke when it comes to standing behind their products. Thinking Spider Farmer or AC INFINITY.
Thanks for your understanding. But i would suggest you to double check the wire connection. The driver is good since the light still can work.Yes, I have. I will post video when it fails again, as this is what we agreed to. Until then I wait anxiously and with apprehension. Not what I paid for.
hey bud. the 25% or 50% stands for the PPFD level or the light intensity level. Not only stands for the wattage. it is reasonable that the wattage has something relating to the PPFD, but it is not totally correct.Has there been any problems with the dimmer boxes on these lights? On my fce 3000 I recently noticed when I plugged it into the meter to run it at a certain wattage for veg it was way off... 41 watts at lowest setting 49 watts at 50 percent 139 watts at full power on the dimmer. I shut the switch on the back of the dimmer box and it runs at 288 watts which is what I originally tested it at on the dimmer at max... Was wondering why my last flower run didn't flush out properly now I know...I'm assuming it's safe to run it like this with the dimmer switched off although it is inconvenient to only be able to run it at full power better than nothing.. View attachment 18815306 View attachment 18815308 View attachment 18815309
Understood..when I first got the light I tested it with that meter to see where things would fall wattage wise using the dimmer control. It ran at 288 watts at max.. perfectly acceptable... Now it has been a year and a half later it will only run at 139 watts with the dimmer control at max...the only way to get it to run at full 288 watts now is to turn the dimmer control switch completely off on the back of the dimmer to bypass it.. not looking to have the light warrantied or anything like that.. I don't know if there has been other problems with the dimmer switch or not but I would like to let the community here know there could be a potential problem there for other growers.. would hate to see someone else's flower room running at less than half the wattage it should be.. just something to be looking out for friends keep a eye on it...hey bud. the 25% or 50% stands for the PPFD level or the light intensity level. Not only stands for the wattage. it is reasonable that the wattage has something relating to the PPFD, but it is not totally correct.
The max power can be 300W or more. But to ensure the light can be used for a long time, we adjust the max power to be less than 300W. Working at full power could shorten the lifespan.
There is a noticeable difference in the brightness when I switch from dimmer on at max to dimmer off back and forth with the main bypass switch on the back yes.. however I didn't notice it on my last flower run I think it might have messed up somewhere towards the end of the run not sure..Was there a visible difference to the naked eye?
Looks like it would be easy enough to replace its just 2 wires I'll have to look into that. Any recommendations for a new dimmer are welcome...Those dimmer knobs are cheap and fail easily. I would clean it or replace it.