Night4wings20
Active member
That looks awesome Tang! Will make some potent stuff for sure 
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Malawi Style Cob Curing.
- Thread starter Tangwena
- Start date
They look perfect brother I love the colors nice finish. If you dry them until the surface feels dry then vacuum seal them for another 2 to 3 weeks I am sure you will have some dynamite.
I would be so chuffed if I got a result like that my friend hats off brother you have Aced it.
I would be so chuffed if I got a result like that my friend hats off brother you have Aced it.
Thank you my friend but this has developed over time over 3 forums with multiple contributors.
It continues to develop at this very moment experiments are going on to try and fathom the reasons for the results we get and to perfect the cures retaining the aromas and tastes of varies strains and buds.
It will carry on into the future with all the diverse input from great growers who have a feel for their plants. There is still a lot to explore we are only just scratching the surface of the potential here.
H
HaHaHashish
You can cob without a vacuum sealer. Where the cob method calls for vacuum sealing, instead wrap the cobs very tightly with plastic cling wrap (Saran). Use a 10 inch x 10 inch piece of wrap for a forefinger of dense cob. Pull tightly and stretch the film as you roll up the cob, keep the tension on the wrap as you roll the cob. Also fold over the ends several times when rolling it up, the tighter the better. It takes a little practice, but soon you will be able to wrap and roll the cobs extremely tight. But as these are not put in a vacuum, so you will need to monitor them by unwrapping them every 2 ~ 4 days for the first few weeks to make sure they are not too damp, which will invite mold.
It takes a bit more work this way, but so long as you follow the instructions and tips in this thread and also keep the cobs within the range of not too damp and not too dry you will get great results.
If you are not sure about using your bud to try cobbing for the first time, then try it with trim and airy buds.
Happy Cobbing!
It takes a bit more work this way, but so long as you follow the instructions and tips in this thread and also keep the cobs within the range of not too damp and not too dry you will get great results.
If you are not sure about using your bud to try cobbing for the first time, then try it with trim and airy buds.
Happy Cobbing!
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Thank you brother I knew someone scored a good cure. It was you all along why am I not surprised.
Hats off my friend thats gold info from the source itself.
H
HaHaHashish
I have tried the "submerge the plastic bag in hot water" vac seal method, it works ok, but I find that the vacuum dissipates next day with the sandwich bags I use (this would probably work well with plastic bags that are made specifically for vacuum sealing).
and since the Saran wrapped cobs (even really tightly wrapped cobs) are still partially permeable, don't keep the sealed cobs in a damp, humid environment as this could mean the difference between developing mold or not. The danger period is a about a week ~ 3 weeks after the 24 hours heat when the cobs are sealed in wrap and kept at room temps. So monitor the cobs during this time and if they feel wetter than very slightly damp, then allow the cobs to air dry for a few hours in a mid ~ low humidity room, then reseal when the exterior of the cobs are not cold/damp to touch.
I got mold only once out of about 20 cobs I've made over the past few years, it developed a a very light, patchy covering of white mold on the exterior. This was during a really humid few weeks and that cob was too wet before sealing and I didn't check on it. I wiped the mold off with a damp cloth then dried it and re-sealed it.
Also note that my cobs are rolled very tightly and in a month become very heavy, hard and dense like wood or closer to hash than bud (although when sliced off can be finger rubbed then made into a perfect slow burning joint. I think that very loosely rolled cobs would have too much surface area which would make matters worse if mold developed. With a very tightly rolled cob, the cob is a solid mass and mold won't develop inside the cob, if it does then appear on the exterior then it can be removed easily but a loosely compacted cob that develops mold would be a throw-away.
I hope all this talk of mold doesn't scare people (without a vac sealer) from trying cobbing as it can be done. so long as you follow the suggestions in this thread and create the right conditions, temps, dampness levels, duration and monitor the cobs through each stage then you will be Cobbing!
Happy Cobbing!
and since the Saran wrapped cobs (even really tightly wrapped cobs) are still partially permeable, don't keep the sealed cobs in a damp, humid environment as this could mean the difference between developing mold or not. The danger period is a about a week ~ 3 weeks after the 24 hours heat when the cobs are sealed in wrap and kept at room temps. So monitor the cobs during this time and if they feel wetter than very slightly damp, then allow the cobs to air dry for a few hours in a mid ~ low humidity room, then reseal when the exterior of the cobs are not cold/damp to touch.
I got mold only once out of about 20 cobs I've made over the past few years, it developed a a very light, patchy covering of white mold on the exterior. This was during a really humid few weeks and that cob was too wet before sealing and I didn't check on it. I wiped the mold off with a damp cloth then dried it and re-sealed it.
Also note that my cobs are rolled very tightly and in a month become very heavy, hard and dense like wood or closer to hash than bud (although when sliced off can be finger rubbed then made into a perfect slow burning joint. I think that very loosely rolled cobs would have too much surface area which would make matters worse if mold developed. With a very tightly rolled cob, the cob is a solid mass and mold won't develop inside the cob, if it does then appear on the exterior then it can be removed easily but a loosely compacted cob that develops mold would be a throw-away.
I hope all this talk of mold doesn't scare people (without a vac sealer) from trying cobbing as it can be done. so long as you follow the suggestions in this thread and create the right conditions, temps, dampness levels, duration and monitor the cobs through each stage then you will be Cobbing!
Happy Cobbing!
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Hey, can someone point me to the post that has the current and best way to make a cob? I looked from page 212 on like Tang said in his signature, but couldn't find it.
I made one of these last year and it was outstanding. I kicked myself though because I first read the original way to make it and then after I made it, I read through the thread more and saw the updated method. This thread is so huge I couldn't find it again though. Really looking forward to trying it again but just want to make sure I'm doing it with the newest best method.
I made one of these last year and it was outstanding. I kicked myself though because I first read the original way to make it and then after I made it, I read through the thread more and saw the updated method. This thread is so huge I couldn't find it again though. Really looking forward to trying it again but just want to make sure I'm doing it with the newest best method.
7
707OGBUSH970
Gonna try this!
H
HaHaHashish
"Visible sweat droplets inside?" Yes? No?
If there aren't any droplets of moisture seen inside the bag during the 24 hours @ 40C then the material was too dry to begin with and fermentation won't take place, all you are doing is making tubular brick weed. If the material was damp, not dry when rolled up and placed in a bag on heat and you don't see any moisture droplets in the bag then the moisture escaped and the material dried out and fermentation also won't occur.
If there aren't any droplets of moisture seen inside the bag during the 24 hours @ 40C then the material was too dry to begin with and fermentation won't take place, all you are doing is making tubular brick weed. If the material was damp, not dry when rolled up and placed in a bag on heat and you don't see any moisture droplets in the bag then the moisture escaped and the material dried out and fermentation also won't occur.
The fatter one will tend to dry unevenly as it is unevenly rolled.
Even on perfect cylinders they dry unevenly due to different densities, that's why I think is so critical a slow, stepped drying in airtight jars. The right time is when you notice lots of crystals on top of the surface, and it stops being supple and cracks.
Have a nice Sunday everyone!
Even on perfect cylinders they dry unevenly due to different densities, that's why I think is so critical a slow, stepped drying in airtight jars. The right time is when you notice lots of crystals on top of the surface, and it stops being supple and cracks.
Have a nice Sunday everyone!
Hi Repuk,there are those white crystals(someone previously said are called plumes by cigars smokers,i can't find the post)on the drier surface.i'll let the third for another week and the first for 2,number 2 looks almost ready.the fattest one,well i might have exaggerated a bit ,i can't dry it properly,it's too wet and i fear it could rot instead of ferment.
,i can't dry it properly,it's too wet and i fear it could rot instead of ferment.
They look great man yes drying slowly is a hard thing to achieve though you are talking about perfection.Hi Repuk,there are those white crystals(someone previously said are called plumes by cigars smokers,i can't find the post)on the drier surface.i'll let the third for another week and the first for 2,number 2 looks almost ready.the fattest one,well i might have exaggerated a bit
Sweet Sue uses a dehydrator and friends who have bought and used them swear by them for sweating and drying afterwards.
I got one on ebay for $60 not the best brand and a little toy like but it works fine.
Get one they are the perfect answer to slow drying even for sweating they are unreal you can dial in the temps from 25c to 70c and even the cheap ones seem fairly accurate.
Just keep them vacuum sealed between drying and at room temps they wont go to far off the sweet spot. Until you can get them dried fully.
Malawi x Ethiopian cob oil
Malawi x Ethiopian cob oil
Not bad yield from 11g of a mix of two MxE cobs.
Smells so good it brings back memories of Africa. I used to love a greasy one skinner made with a dab of oil spread over a cig paper then sprinkled with small pieces of the same cob rolled up like a Swiss roll.
Two pulls and you were out of it and off for the whole night.
Thing was you needed 3 or 4 people to finish it. I could never roll them small enough for me alone.
Malawi x Ethiopian cob oil
Not bad yield from 11g of a mix of two MxE cobs.
Smells so good it brings back memories of Africa. I used to love a greasy one skinner made with a dab of oil spread over a cig paper then sprinkled with small pieces of the same cob rolled up like a Swiss roll.
Two pulls and you were out of it and off for the whole night.
Thing was you needed 3 or 4 people to finish it. I could never roll them small enough for me alone.
Hi guys
I have just harvested a few outdoor Aussie winteries headbanger and gorilla bubble buds so both are on the wide leaf side, they are both lightly seeded and I want to try and save the seeds if possible, I think I remember a post about how hot I can sweat em before it compromises the seeds but just wanted to ask. So can I say sweat em on a low ish heat say 35 degrees c and still have viable seeds when aged? Thx guys.
I have just harvested a few outdoor Aussie winteries headbanger and gorilla bubble buds so both are on the wide leaf side, they are both lightly seeded and I want to try and save the seeds if possible, I think I remember a post about how hot I can sweat em before it compromises the seeds but just wanted to ask. So can I say sweat em on a low ish heat say 35 degrees c and still have viable seeds when aged? Thx guys.
Hi my friend I'm a fellow Aussie myself so we have that in common.
If it was me I would keep a few buds with seeds out of the cobs or try and remove as many as possible as insurance if you can.
Sure 12 to 24 hrs sweat will not harm the seeds and a short cure say one week would also not harm them.
The longer cures tend to hurt them I dont get good germ rates from 3 to 4 week cures.
But friends who have found seeds in cobs I gave them have germed them without issues. Just not guaranteed so insurance is a good precaution.
