Makeshift Greenhouse Problems

[TrueReligion]

If you have 11$ , flora nova grow or fox farms grow big online will last you months its 0.14 tsp to a water bottle for a starting mix pH test after making, she could use nutes, I just got my moontang and bbhp clones to root. New growth is still green so you have time

 

[brown_thumb]

Honestly they look fine. Stop stressing.
You are doing ok. You can over do the foliar too.

You can spray more but you need to cut the mix with 2x water. Sometimes extra moisture is good. Sometimes not.

Things really change slower in soil. So no need to stress if you dont see really fast change.

Thanks. I do tend to stress too much.

I don't think the foliar spraying has caught up with the deficiency yet. What I don't understand is that my previous corrections have always shown marked improvement within a few hours... sometimes just a couple hours.

I forgot to mention earlier that the seedlings have never seen temperatures colder than mid 50's because I move them into a lighted grow box at night.

If you have 11$ , flora nova grow or fox farms grow big online will last you months its 0.14 tsp to a water bottle for a starting mix pH test after making, she could use nutes, I just got my moontang and bbhp clones to root. New growth is still green so you have time

I'm researching Floranova Grow and Fox Farms Grow Big.

 

[TrueReligion]

Earth worm casting and bat guano tea is also possible

 

[brown_thumb]

Earth worm casting and bat guano tea is also possible

Soil, foliar or both?

 

[Levitationofme]

You can use EWC Tea for drench or foliar. Helps boost the microbes. I have messed with a bunch of them. I think the time spent messing with the Teas and worms and such takes away from time with the plants which is probably the biggest reason they are doing better.
Perhaps the tea is similar to the Husband going to boil water while the child is born thing.
Keep the guy busy and away lol.

Tons to read about as far as Tea combos and methods.
Plenty of videos too

 

[TrueReligion]

Here's a updated pic from just a couple minutes ago if you ever do decide to go with those nutrients.

 

[brown_thumb]

Other than adding a foliar spray and maybe something to treat a specific issue, I need to use the rest of my current nutrients. Overall, they seem to be doing okay after I got the soil, watering, feeding and lighting adjusted. I just don't want to waste them.

 

[TrueReligion]

They also work as a foliar spray, its all you need in one bottle for veg. I understand, I just like to mix all of my nutrients up keeping track of ppm

 

[Cannabis]

Wow dude, foliar spraying. You're for real huh.

Sorry to act surprised, I just kinda was like.... YeP, YeP, YeP, and realized I do that too. I also sprayed my last crop with that copper-sulfate lime mix they call Bordeaux, to try to deter fungus SOME. You spray it on the vegging plant obviously not on the flowers.

Anyway it sticks like glue. And it really stops the fire blight in other plants, -and also it's known for taking the merciless beating out of the sun, to whatever degree you can get the outer shade leaves and inner shade leaves coated with the Bordeaux mix.

You gotta FILTER the living CRAP out of it, I mean really - or it clogs a sprayer. You gotta be kinda hard core.

I usually chicken out and cut my weed before the chance of mold gets TOO bad, and I did this past season too, because - the Bordeaux isn't really going on any of the flowers, you're not supposed to be smoking copper.

So the protection from mold in my mind was probably minimal for my weed.

However there are two things that are good to report about the stuff: it reduced the wilting to a noticeable degree, vs some plants not sprayed with the Bordeaux,

and also, I noticed that when I sprayed the shit out of them with the Bordeaux, it was a little harder to pick out individual pot leaves under my net when the summer's hottest days were there.

However once it starts flowering if ya let the spikes stick up, ya know what you're gonna be having: bright, green colas with those unsprayed sugar leaves all up and down, and the latest leaves to mature of course, once flowering starts so it does absolutely NO good to hide actually FLOWERING plants.

But if you have a bunch of tomatoes or cucumbers, one of the things you can do to conceal some pot among them is spray it all with Bordeaux mix.

I sprayed my foliar feeds onto the Bordeaux mix.

I think somewhere around here on a thread I might have been telling the story about when it got real hot, I sprayed the tops of my vegetable garden, some of these giant leaf'ed squash plants, with just plain water to suppress the mites and it is true that it really does suppress the shit out of mites to keep misting the plants about twice to maybe three, four times a day, you gotta kinda pick your seasons with pot and vegetables or you'll make the fungal pathogens just take off.

Well.. I sprayed the Bordeaux mix onto my plants early season and noticed when I read about it for suppressing this fire blight stuff in an edible veg garden, it didn't wash off till the season's end; and I was like... well, we'll see what's up with this.

I sprayed it on those vegetables and I must say that stuff stuck very, very well to the plants' leaves. It diminished a little bit maybe over the season but not too much, and really, wherever it was at the beginning of the season, it - pretty much, still was stuck onto the plant surfaces toward the end of the season.

It's a very light, a pale, copper green color, that's basically the color of the brilliant white lime, and the deep copper blue/green of the copper sulfate. You buy that stuff on Ebay, to flush down drainlines and bury alongside drainlines, to kill roots; that's what it's used for a lot.

It's not really magic stuff but it's amazingly cool, for - for what it is. For instance the leaves transpire fine, right through the stuff when it's on them. and if you mist the plants a lot it still doesn't wash it off.

It works like a very thin sorta veil of fairly powerful anti fungal obviously- it's not on the buds so it IS N O T protection from fungus on your buds.

I was kind of trying to figure this out too: whether it tended to deter mites.

I got mites in this outdoor garden as the summer got dry and I decided to go ahead and let them burn off some leaves on the vegetable plants, and see just how accurate what I had read online was, regarding the capacity of the mix to sorta - just physically deter mites, wherever it was. Coverage when you spray this stuff - it is NOT a total coverage deal, it's a net of many many many, little droplets, like white latex paint sprayed out of a sprayer in millions of little dots across the surfaces of the plant. You spray it till the entire bark is covered on tomatoes and cucumbers etc at times.

Allowing the mites to run rampant on some squash, I did in fact notice that the infection speeds were slower on the heavily Bordeaux mix sprayed leaves. And I don't know for sure but I have to say that - I let the mites cross over into the pot to see if the mite slowdown was the same, and it was. I tripped and killed the mites with chemicals I confess but I don't sell my weed and I've already outlived several generations of doctors who told me I'd be dead by the time I was 60. F***k them they were also squealing about how the Federals were right and that pot was in fact, just like fu**n heroin.

Anyway back at the non rebellion related conversation I did in fact notice that Bordeaux slowed the impact of the mites on the plant, because - it simply blocked them from actually attacking cells where the Bordeaux was thickest. Eventually they got under the Bordeaux, or bacterial infection and/or lack of circulation of fluids, eventually killed the Bordeaux mix painted leaves, but there was, in fact noticeable slowdown of the mites where I let them spread, on both the vegetables and, the pot.

And the thinner the Bordeaux mix was distributed on the plants of course, the more swiftly the mites could spread at their own speed. On the giant leaves of the squash plants, especially, the Bordeaux mix could be watched protecting the leaves because they're giant like - three feet long and two feet wide leaves, many of them - and they sun chase pretty hard too so they really display plant health. It takes a lot of Bordeaux of course to coat all this very much at all and you have to have a CERTAIN amount to deter fire blight, -the reason for using it is deterrence of that in - really the vast majority of cases- so I had initially just put the stuff on, as per and all that, with some of it extra thick, some of it kinda thin, so I could just check what was up.

The leaves that were on the vegetables were way, WAY drier overall than the pot - just BEGGING for mite infestation. The pot swam around under some floating netting which REALLY helps keep the mites down because the humidity is so much easier to keep up, some when the plants are in veg state anyway- and they were eaten up a lot faster by the mites; and only determined, three-to-four-times daily water hosings could really suppress the mites after they were tearing up the squash plants. I really let them go so I could observe the Bordeaux mix's sunburn deterrent effect: G O O D and it's mite slow-down - commensurate with the heaviness of the coat of Bordeaux mix.

I can't say this is real; but my impression was that it was the same for the vegetables as for the pot: part of the vegetables were under netting but many simply over-grew my hoops, so I also had a split between region under netting, and not under netting, similarly to the pot's situation. Sometimes the pot was exposed to full sunlight because it as well got tall, there was wind etc.

Where it was kept more humid the mites really slowed down on the squash; but they would get down into the foliage anywhere I didn't keep it quite moist all the time.

Obviously I never let the pot get many of them but I did notice, that when they got onto the pot, they seemed to stay quite thinly spread out through the area of canopy I let em get on, in the ot garden.

And I'd say that - it really did seem like they were really limited in how much they could get accomplished in the top of the plants, because I was also coming by each afternoon with a water hose, and spraying the whole thing down; this suppressed the mites' move onto the pot, a LOT because I did ensure it stayed pretty humid under the nets the pot was under.

Mainly though I just didn't let the mites really dig in, in the pot. When I thought I had a sorta mental measurement of how swiftly or slowly pot was dying from mites, vs my suppression- basically at first just spraying them with a water hose a couple of times a day - I whipped out the chemicals and also started misting the plants three times a day till the mites died on all the plants gardenwide.

I fed both sets of plants 1/4th and 1/5th strength nutes foliar a few times through the season. It definitely makes the plants perk up to foliar feed them.

It also didn't harm the plants, either set, to foliar feed them nutes, through the Bordeaux mix, which I was pleasantly surprised to see.

I still have some of the Bordeaux and I think my wife and I are going to buy another house this summer and move, but when I plant outside again I think I'm gonna Bordeaux mix the pot along with the vegetables again.

My whole summer this past season was spent undergoing the experimentation I was describing above.

One thing I most definitely regret, is not actually hooking up misting lines. I just misted all my stuff with a hand sprayer on the hose so I could make myself keep track a little better; we were thinking about buying another place this whole past year so I resisted building up too much stuff.

Anyway I've really enjoyed following along with your thread and thought I'd pitch in a little bit since my summer was spent measuring the Bordeaux mix's reaction to the mites and, the foliar feeding.

Peace

 

[brown_thumb]

Cannabis, thank you for sharing your experiences Bordeaux and mites. I can't spray the large plants with that because I'll definitely get quite a bit on the flowers. I might try it on the seedlings before they begin to flower.

What I'm going to try is planting marigolds in each 5 gallon pot alongside the cannabis to deter unwanted insects. I hope that works.

 

[brown_thumb]

I'm still not seeing any improvement after two foliar feedings, the first with 1 teaspoon of epsom salt per gallon and the second with 20ml each humic/fulvic acid and seaweed extract.

Sometime today I'll try again with 4 teaspoons of epsom salt per gallon.

 

[brown_thumb]

I sprayed the younger plants with 4 teaspoons of epsom salt plus 40ml of Humax per gallon of water. I'll have to spray the older plants later today because I'm not able to do it properly at the moment. I'm out of seaweed extract.

Hopefully, they'll begin to show improvement by the end of the day.

 

[brown_thumb]

This is weird...

The yellow leaves on the seedlings are showing very little improvement... maybe none. But the healthy leaves are deeper green. I expected a better (different) outcome. I sprayed the older plants anyway and those seem to be reacting similarly.

Any suggestions?

 

[Levitationofme]

Let them grow.

 

[Levitationofme]

The new growth is nice. And doing fine.
Sometimes thats the way it grows.

 

[brown_thumb]

Okay... it's just that many others don't have these problems. When the leaves die and drop off or if I trim them off it affects how I should trim them later for manifolding.

I'm trying to improve my results and this is a stumbling point.

 

[Levitationofme]

well, perhaps you wont be able to manifold them. You have to take what ya got and make the best of it. Simple topping works great, much easier on the plants. You wont loose a month of growth because you strip off all the leaves and torture the plants into submission
before they conform to what you want and then start flowering.

If you are growing a cash crop, perhaps it's worth it. I don't know.
Obviously people do it. People like the results. I can't speak to the method really, as I have never done it.

For my situation I top and tie down branches, Pinch branches and trim only the bottom few inches of growth so Air gets under the plant. I pull off dieing leaves and leave the rest alone. The breeder of the seeds I am growing believes I should not even trim that much. Photosynthesis happens mostly in the leaves, so cutting them off only cuts down the amount of photosynthesis that is possible. Less energy = less resin and terpenes

Tons of people don't do that and grow elite plants so I guess its a matter of the variety you grow and your knowledge of them.

One grower I know knows exactly how far his lights can penetrate the canopy and trims off everything else. I wish I could grow as good as he does. But that is opposite of what I was told for the types I am growing.

So hence the added confusion factor.

 

[brown_thumb]

I might not manifold the next set (the ones that are currently babies) but I want to leave that option open. Or, if I can build the grow room very soon, I might try doing vertical SCROGs on each wall.

BTW, it started raining about an hour ago... very light sprinkles at first. Now it's becoming a light rain so most of the foliar spray will washed off. At least it was there for several hours.

 

[Levitationofme]

Not to worry, it did sit there for a few hours and probably did its thing.


Below is part of the guide I use, distributed by the people who make and use NFTG
It is not meant to be anything but someones opinion, but I
follow the advice.

Foliar Feeding Recipes:
1) Feed early in the day or in the evening, when the sun/light is weaker. This will keep the
sun/light from burning the leaves, as water droplets can act like a magnifying glass.
Stomata are more likely to be open during these times as well.
2) Do not spray if the temperature is over 80F or in the bright sun
3) Use a surfactant. Surfactants reduce the surface tension of the water, spreading it over the
leaf surface. More surface area = more absorption. Yucca is an awesome organic
surfactant.
4) Hit everything. Don’t forget to spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves for maximum
absorption. - remember, stomata are abundant on the undersides of the leaves.
5) When mixing up your formulation, whether mineral, organic fertilization or compost tea,
use non-chlorinated, well oxygenated water. Bubble air through chlorinated tap water for
2 hours or leave it to off-gas overnight.
6) Make sure mineral ingredients are dissolved and the solution is very dilute. Chemicals in
high concentration tend to ‘burn’ foliage and leave a salt residue. Suggestion is to
NEVER add any salt base nutrient into your teas.
7) Young transplants prefer a more alkaline solution (pH 7.0) while older growth like a
somewhat more acidic (pH 6.2) spray. If you are concerned about Olympus up (calcium),
you can use baking soda to raise pH and apple cider vinegar to lower the pH of your
spray.
8) Spray with a fine sprayer for foliar fertilization and a coarser, low pressure sprayer for
compost teas. The microbes in compost tea need large protective water droplets. Harsh
ultraviolet rays can kill microbes in compost tea.

There are some recipes I omit them as
I am not trying to sell anyones stuff and they are mostly based on NFTG products

 

[brown_thumb]

I did pretty close to what's in that list except I used tap water and PHed it to 6.5.