Sux dude. Hoping all works out
LouDog's LED Lounge
- Thread starter LouDog420
- Start date
LJ farming
Active member
You got this bud early it sounds like!!! How did you catch it so early? I definitely know what white whispy mold BS looks like however I have never seen it on my plants and would like to know what to look for. Happy Sunday Funday!
Peace out,
LJ
Peace out,
LJ
StickyBandit
Well-known member
Have you thought of applying a product with Bacillus amyloliquefaciens in it?
It can be applied to fruit for storage and transport to keep from going moldy right up to eating time so should be ok to smoke. Just a thought...
It can be applied to fruit for storage and transport to keep from going moldy right up to eating time so should be ok to smoke. Just a thought...
LouDog420
Well-known member
Thanks all, just a few tiny spots. Had it bad last round in the tent, so have been watching closely for it.
Kinda hard to describe other than white wispy mold. If you see almost spider web looking lines connecting and getting fuzzy, bingo... Fungus gnats don't help, they'll fly around and die on a bud, and they can be a vector for the mold to start up, germinate, and proliferate. I slacked on my root teas, and didn't run any gnatrol like usual. Live and learn...
Ramped up ventilation/air circulation significantly. 5 muffin fans running, and leaving the door open with a floor fan blowing in. Shit is swaying in the breeze.
Haven't seen it progress further, but there's a lot of flowers in there and not all are easily accessible. The OGC/NYCO seems extra susceptible, and those were the ones that had issues last round in the tent. A combo of high humidity, not enough airflow, and genetics imo. And of course my favorite OGC/NYCO seems to be impacted (big fat orange girl).
Theoretically, if we change environmental conditions so it can't germinate or spread, it doesn't matter how many spores are in the air. Maybe wishful thinking, but increase in air circulation above the canopy seems to have a positive effect.
StickyBandit, I run amyloquefaciens (sp*) in root teas. Southern Ag has a cheap solid product that has worked for me. At 7 weeks, I'm not spraying flowers with anything however. I'd rather harvest early and turn it into water hash then press into rosin. Thank you for the input.
We should be able to limp through 2 more weeks, hopefully. Then deep clean and reload and try again. Might rework the dehui setup. Great thing, there's always another round
Good vibes all, we'll get it done. Shit's not always butterflies and rainbows, but no doom and gloom over here.
Very high tech fan hanging setup... Grateful we went a little overboard on outlets now
Kinda hard to describe other than white wispy mold. If you see almost spider web looking lines connecting and getting fuzzy, bingo... Fungus gnats don't help, they'll fly around and die on a bud, and they can be a vector for the mold to start up, germinate, and proliferate. I slacked on my root teas, and didn't run any gnatrol like usual. Live and learn...
Ramped up ventilation/air circulation significantly. 5 muffin fans running, and leaving the door open with a floor fan blowing in. Shit is swaying in the breeze.
Haven't seen it progress further, but there's a lot of flowers in there and not all are easily accessible. The OGC/NYCO seems extra susceptible, and those were the ones that had issues last round in the tent. A combo of high humidity, not enough airflow, and genetics imo. And of course my favorite OGC/NYCO seems to be impacted (big fat orange girl).
Theoretically, if we change environmental conditions so it can't germinate or spread, it doesn't matter how many spores are in the air. Maybe wishful thinking, but increase in air circulation above the canopy seems to have a positive effect.
StickyBandit, I run amyloquefaciens (sp*) in root teas. Southern Ag has a cheap solid product that has worked for me. At 7 weeks, I'm not spraying flowers with anything however. I'd rather harvest early and turn it into water hash then press into rosin. Thank you for the input.
We should be able to limp through 2 more weeks, hopefully. Then deep clean and reload and try again. Might rework the dehui setup. Great thing, there's always another round
Good vibes all, we'll get it done. Shit's not always butterflies and rainbows, but no doom and gloom over here.
Very high tech fan hanging setup... Grateful we went a little overboard on outlets now
Last edited:
LJ farming
Active member
Damn LD it ain’t no wonder you gotta little mold those colas are massive!!!! It ain’t their fault you been doing everything right! Backer down a gear or 5 so I can catchup. 
The forum scene : The room is quite, a post is made, In the background i hear someone say to another " Ahhh shit, here comes Gmanwho again, preaching some bullshit again"
Fungi, man, Sounds like PM, but grab a photo of it and post it. Boytris can do some weird webbing too. Again, i don't clam to know everything, and i sure as hell dont. but man ive been through the ringer when it comes to fighting pests and disease's over the past 25 years. my 2 cents as always. And i my intention is not to hear myself talk.
Pythium, multiple fusarium strains, broadmites, russetmites, pm, boytrytis, root & regular aphids, and there is more im sure. things i wasnt aware of, or couldnt get tissue analyzed by a lab. that ended up being eradicated with persistence of application and procedure. Basically no matter what it is , You gotta learn the life cycle of what ales you and learn how to interrupt the cycle and eradicate it.
As you know from our past PM's fusarium dam near broke my back. Anyways..
If you want PM gone, well , as always, its another procedure. Some food for thought..
Pickup a ozone generator from ebay and run it after the room take down an clean up of all debri, and wipe any horizontal surfaces down with bleach water. run the ozone at every take down before the reload! this way the ozone gets into the fans, the radiator coils, in between the cracks. ozone is a magnet. .( could be tough to run ozone if its gonna leak back into the living area). But u want to to get into ductwork too. the ac fans the dehumidifier, everywhere.
Beside the obvious pre filters on room intake.
On the ac....Check you ac drain for restrictions. and check for dust or mold build up inside and on the squirrel cage fan area and coils. Shit builds up for sure. There are uv light strips u can put inside the fan area that will stop build up. there are foam antibacterial sprays made for hvac coils and u can clean and spray the inside areas. ( ihave a Kit that is a plastic bib that hangs under the head unit and u can spray down the unit and it funnels the run off and or wont get spray everywhere)
While the inside condensation drip catch is pitched to drain. There maybe build up forcing water not to drain properly. the vacuum from the ac fan could be pulling condensate off the coil (that should be dropping into the condensate catch) and then introducing it to the air stream.
Also check to see if the head unit is properly leveled and not pitched forward. All the internals are designed to be pitched to drain, so an improper hanging of the head unit could change the drip design.
So what ever scenario and or combination of things, is that cold air out of the ac is setting the perfect wet and cold environment for pm to reproduce.
If you cant move the ac head so its not cooling the immediate canopy, introduce a second external wall mount oscillating fan in front of the ac head unit. this fan will blend the room air and the cold ac air together, making the air not as drastic of a temp and humidity change when it hits the canopy. Also a fan will provide volatile air movement. PM has a difficult time setting up shop and reproducing in windy situations.
U can change the PH of the leaf surface with M-pede, Citric acid, potassium bicarbonate. Hindering the PM ability to setup. Something to work into IPM an disease management. My goto is M-pede treatments on a biweekly basis from clone to day 10ish in flower. M-PEde puts a thin skin on the leaf surface, suffocates spores and hyphae( webbing you are seeing), temporary changes the ph. Also suffocates mites and eggs, and also dries out exoskeletons leaving the insect to basically bleed out and succumb to the wound. Its omri listed as well. Mpede and potassium bicarbonate work well for knockdown of pm. I use 15mil mpede in my dip solutions, and 30mpg in my petra fogger.
Ive had good luck with damp2dry mobile dehumidifiers. its nice that they are setup like a hand truck & have wheels so u can move it on your own. They are usually under 1k for a 160pint a day unit. Also any dehumidifier used has to absolutely have some sort of auto drain function.
persistence and you got this..
bwell man!!
Fungi, man, Sounds like PM, but grab a photo of it and post it. Boytris can do some weird webbing too. Again, i don't clam to know everything, and i sure as hell dont. but man ive been through the ringer when it comes to fighting pests and disease's over the past 25 years. my 2 cents as always. And i my intention is not to hear myself talk.
Pythium, multiple fusarium strains, broadmites, russetmites, pm, boytrytis, root & regular aphids, and there is more im sure. things i wasnt aware of, or couldnt get tissue analyzed by a lab. that ended up being eradicated with persistence of application and procedure. Basically no matter what it is , You gotta learn the life cycle of what ales you and learn how to interrupt the cycle and eradicate it.
As you know from our past PM's fusarium dam near broke my back. Anyways..
If you want PM gone, well , as always, its another procedure. Some food for thought..
Pickup a ozone generator from ebay and run it after the room take down an clean up of all debri, and wipe any horizontal surfaces down with bleach water. run the ozone at every take down before the reload! this way the ozone gets into the fans, the radiator coils, in between the cracks. ozone is a magnet. .( could be tough to run ozone if its gonna leak back into the living area). But u want to to get into ductwork too. the ac fans the dehumidifier, everywhere.
Beside the obvious pre filters on room intake.
On the ac....Check you ac drain for restrictions. and check for dust or mold build up inside and on the squirrel cage fan area and coils. Shit builds up for sure. There are uv light strips u can put inside the fan area that will stop build up. there are foam antibacterial sprays made for hvac coils and u can clean and spray the inside areas. ( ihave a Kit that is a plastic bib that hangs under the head unit and u can spray down the unit and it funnels the run off and or wont get spray everywhere)
While the inside condensation drip catch is pitched to drain. There maybe build up forcing water not to drain properly. the vacuum from the ac fan could be pulling condensate off the coil (that should be dropping into the condensate catch) and then introducing it to the air stream.
Also check to see if the head unit is properly leveled and not pitched forward. All the internals are designed to be pitched to drain, so an improper hanging of the head unit could change the drip design.
So what ever scenario and or combination of things, is that cold air out of the ac is setting the perfect wet and cold environment for pm to reproduce.
If you cant move the ac head so its not cooling the immediate canopy, introduce a second external wall mount oscillating fan in front of the ac head unit. this fan will blend the room air and the cold ac air together, making the air not as drastic of a temp and humidity change when it hits the canopy. Also a fan will provide volatile air movement. PM has a difficult time setting up shop and reproducing in windy situations.
U can change the PH of the leaf surface with M-pede, Citric acid, potassium bicarbonate. Hindering the PM ability to setup. Something to work into IPM an disease management. My goto is M-pede treatments on a biweekly basis from clone to day 10ish in flower. M-PEde puts a thin skin on the leaf surface, suffocates spores and hyphae( webbing you are seeing), temporary changes the ph. Also suffocates mites and eggs, and also dries out exoskeletons leaving the insect to basically bleed out and succumb to the wound. Its omri listed as well. Mpede and potassium bicarbonate work well for knockdown of pm. I use 15mil mpede in my dip solutions, and 30mpg in my petra fogger.
Ive had good luck with damp2dry mobile dehumidifiers. its nice that they are setup like a hand truck & have wheels so u can move it on your own. They are usually under 1k for a 160pint a day unit. Also any dehumidifier used has to absolutely have some sort of auto drain function.
persistence and you got this..
bwell man!!
Last edited:
LouDog420
Well-known member
Thanks bud, fantastic info as usual. Busy today, so no time for a lengthy reply, but it's not pm, 100%. I know pm well
Boytritis/fusarium, something but no pm luckily. Just bud rot/cobweb mold.
Will definitely look into ozone for between run sterilization. As well as mobile dehui...
Seems like we knocked it back decently with the extra air circulation, but watching closely every day. We're at 50 days in now, so even if we can limp through another week and a half, we'll be in good shape.
Boytritis/fusarium, something but no pm luckily. Just bud rot/cobweb mold.
Will definitely look into ozone for between run sterilization. As well as mobile dehui...
Seems like we knocked it back decently with the extra air circulation, but watching closely every day. We're at 50 days in now, so even if we can limp through another week and a half, we'll be in good shape.
Last edited:
DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
Hey bro......Been back at the farm for a couple weeks and not payin too much attention to the site.....1 thing1s fo sho , Gman`s got enough runs under his belt to have experienced the full gammit of ALL the airborn nasties PLUS every critter known to God and man , but........
The 1 thing that stands out is your wall / muffin fan placement as well as Gman alluding to the same problem EVERY sealed room grower deals with at some point in the game , and that`s the cold ass A/C blowin directly AT and fallin down onto the canopy without it bein moved and distributed "around" the room by the wall and floor fans.......anyways.......
Glad you haven`t found anymore and hopefully with increased airflow and RH control you can skate on thru to harvey without any more recurrence.......and lastly.....my 2 centavo`s that hopefully will help in the future.........
Next run , put wall fans on every corner pointed directly at each opposite wall all in the same direction so the air will blow past the A/C and hit 1 wall while the others will do the same thing and create that "vortex" of air blowin a square circle if you will "around" the plants and not on em , and then.......
Put floor fans doin the same thing but in the opposite direction so as to keep EVERYTHING "stirred up" and constantly movin in said grow area , and with your intake and exhaust setup for lights out RH and CO2 evacuation , all should come to pass with nary another issue with anaerobic conditions IME , but guaranteed.....
What you discovered directly in line with the A/C output was the culprit causin cold and wet conditions on plant tissue and damn proud you found and nailed it my buddy , and......as always.....Top shelf lookin girls LD......Keep strokin and......
Peace......DHF.......
The 1 thing that stands out is your wall / muffin fan placement as well as Gman alluding to the same problem EVERY sealed room grower deals with at some point in the game , and that`s the cold ass A/C blowin directly AT and fallin down onto the canopy without it bein moved and distributed "around" the room by the wall and floor fans.......anyways.......
Glad you haven`t found anymore and hopefully with increased airflow and RH control you can skate on thru to harvey without any more recurrence.......and lastly.....my 2 centavo`s that hopefully will help in the future.........
Next run , put wall fans on every corner pointed directly at each opposite wall all in the same direction so the air will blow past the A/C and hit 1 wall while the others will do the same thing and create that "vortex" of air blowin a square circle if you will "around" the plants and not on em , and then.......
Put floor fans doin the same thing but in the opposite direction so as to keep EVERYTHING "stirred up" and constantly movin in said grow area , and with your intake and exhaust setup for lights out RH and CO2 evacuation , all should come to pass with nary another issue with anaerobic conditions IME , but guaranteed.....
What you discovered directly in line with the A/C output was the culprit causin cold and wet conditions on plant tissue and damn proud you found and nailed it my buddy , and......as always.....Top shelf lookin girls LD......Keep strokin and......
Peace......DHF.......
LouDog420
Well-known member
Circulation fans will be getting a redesign after this round. It's hard to get in there and do much at this point. Girls are stacking and the center walkway parallel to the tables is pretty overgrown.
They way we set up ventilation, everything flows from the left by the AC and perpendicular walkway, to the right where the carbon filter is located, and then comes back around above the ceiling to registers on the left or exhausted depending on motorized damper status. Cycle repeats.
We had two circ fans under the AC mixing air, but still had the mold issues, so we left one as a mixer and added 3 more fans above the canopy. One floor fan blowing down the middle of the tables, and the main ventilation system blows into registers on each side of that, getting some airflow direct under each table's canopy. The idea was to keep the general flow of air from left to right that's established by the main ventilation fans (2x 8", one for exhaust, one for intake)
I think this was just a perfect combo of conditions, dead little fungus gnat that started it off, high humidity/low temp in AC stream that helped it propagate, and genetic susceptibility.
Still keeping the mold at bay, from what I can see. We'll redesign all circulation fans next round, no doubt... Gotta dial her
Meanwhile, day 51, flush is starting... Dropped A and B, just running growmore calmag, MKP, micros, epsom, and some drip clean...
Left
Right
They way we set up ventilation, everything flows from the left by the AC and perpendicular walkway, to the right where the carbon filter is located, and then comes back around above the ceiling to registers on the left or exhausted depending on motorized damper status. Cycle repeats.
We had two circ fans under the AC mixing air, but still had the mold issues, so we left one as a mixer and added 3 more fans above the canopy. One floor fan blowing down the middle of the tables, and the main ventilation system blows into registers on each side of that, getting some airflow direct under each table's canopy. The idea was to keep the general flow of air from left to right that's established by the main ventilation fans (2x 8", one for exhaust, one for intake)
I think this was just a perfect combo of conditions, dead little fungus gnat that started it off, high humidity/low temp in AC stream that helped it propagate, and genetic susceptibility.
Still keeping the mold at bay, from what I can see. We'll redesign all circulation fans next round, no doubt... Gotta dial her
Meanwhile, day 51, flush is starting... Dropped A and B, just running growmore calmag, MKP, micros, epsom, and some drip clean...
Left
Right
Are you running the dehuey? They add heat to the dry air. I wish my dope looked so good.
LouDog420
Well-known member
Feminized pollen via colloidal silver
two 9v batteries
99.9% silver wire
distilled water
9v battery connectors and some wire
Hook up the 9 volts in series
Let it run for 2 days, keep it in the dark
Spray daily a week before flip up until they start stacking pods, really just keep spraying as long as possible...
Sometimes you have to physically get in there and break up male pods to release pollen. Always best to do it anyways to maximize the pollen collected with this process...
Easy peazy, no STS needed
Not everything will reverse, some plants put out sterile pollen.
And after 12+ hours, should be looking like this. Gently lift out silver probes and remove the residue. Filter through a coffee filter or cheese cloth prior to use.
two 9v batteries
99.9% silver wire
distilled water
9v battery connectors and some wire
Hook up the 9 volts in series
Let it run for 2 days, keep it in the dark
Spray daily a week before flip up until they start stacking pods, really just keep spraying as long as possible...
Sometimes you have to physically get in there and break up male pods to release pollen. Always best to do it anyways to maximize the pollen collected with this process...
Easy peazy, no STS needed
Not everything will reverse, some plants put out sterile pollen.
And after 12+ hours, should be looking like this. Gently lift out silver probes and remove the residue. Filter through a coffee filter or cheese cloth prior to use.
Last edited:
when the spores are around its a fine line with keeping it at bay. Having the Humidity in check with vpd charts is to high for middle & late stage flower IMO. then again the spore could've been then from day 1 of flower, or introduced some point after, and now conditions are better for pathogen to develop.
Another point i came to realize, or think i realize, is sometimes u think running the humidity lower will prevent boytrytis from forming. When it is actually could be counter productive.
By lowering the room humidity u now increase the evaporating/transpiration rate in the leaf. For this point of expressing, the Leaf in the cola. So now the moisture flow increase / compensation is coming from within the cola. Which can form a better environment for fungal infections to grow.
Where as before its always expressed / written that only the high room humidity & low temp conditions makes it ideal for the pathogen to thrive. And nothing ever expressed of having low humidity conditions increasing the plants transpiration. Therefore increasing ideal conditions within for the pathogen to thrive.
i always thought 55-60% rh in flower seemed best.
alot of variables are at play.
another thing i noticed that is not talked about is leaf damage in flowering. A dead section of leaf is a food source for the fungal infection. the leaf section has no immune system if its dead. now encapsulate that dead leaf margin within a high humidity cola structure . Perfect breeding grounds.
So if you burnt the leaf tips from a previous overfeed situation, or a calcium deficiency spotting, or a heavy flush crisped up your leaf, these dead sections are now in the cola. this could have major influence.
BUT the real point is to get rid of the spore all together, or at least reduce the spore count / fungal load on the plant or in the room. And then reduce the other variables for boytris to be successful. Or both variables together, so u can get to the finish line.
the other thing, ive been out of the loop for a min, i forget if there are any biofungicides that feed on boytryis. An application early could prevent the boytryis from forming to a point where it reproduces.
I do know that early on foliar applications of M-pede will kill spores and suffocate hyphae.
Below is an article about boytryis
www.microscopemaster.com
Another point i came to realize, or think i realize, is sometimes u think running the humidity lower will prevent boytrytis from forming. When it is actually could be counter productive.
By lowering the room humidity u now increase the evaporating/transpiration rate in the leaf. For this point of expressing, the Leaf in the cola. So now the moisture flow increase / compensation is coming from within the cola. Which can form a better environment for fungal infections to grow.
Where as before its always expressed / written that only the high room humidity & low temp conditions makes it ideal for the pathogen to thrive. And nothing ever expressed of having low humidity conditions increasing the plants transpiration. Therefore increasing ideal conditions within for the pathogen to thrive.
i always thought 55-60% rh in flower seemed best.
alot of variables are at play.
another thing i noticed that is not talked about is leaf damage in flowering. A dead section of leaf is a food source for the fungal infection. the leaf section has no immune system if its dead. now encapsulate that dead leaf margin within a high humidity cola structure . Perfect breeding grounds.
So if you burnt the leaf tips from a previous overfeed situation, or a calcium deficiency spotting, or a heavy flush crisped up your leaf, these dead sections are now in the cola. this could have major influence.
BUT the real point is to get rid of the spore all together, or at least reduce the spore count / fungal load on the plant or in the room. And then reduce the other variables for boytris to be successful. Or both variables together, so u can get to the finish line.
the other thing, ive been out of the loop for a min, i forget if there are any biofungicides that feed on boytryis. An application early could prevent the boytryis from forming to a point where it reproduces.
I do know that early on foliar applications of M-pede will kill spores and suffocate hyphae.
Below is an article about boytryis
Botrytis - Species, Habitat, Life Cycle, Infection and Culture
Botrytis is a genus classified as an anamorphic fungi and belongs to the family Sclerotiniaceae. The fungus has been shown to infect and affect a wide range of plants in various climates across the world making the group an important point of focus in agricultural systems
www.microscopemaster.com
Last edited:
LouDog420
Well-known member
Thanks gman. I have the ozone generator coming, hopefully we can decrease that spore load for next round. Will have to look into biofungicides that can be used pre-flower that may have some lasting effect.
Lots of concerns these days with testing and failure due to mold/mildew/mycotoxin/ecoli, etc. Never had this issue with HID rooms due to the radiant heat imo, and my dehui in this room is undersized, add in spores from the last round, genetic susceptibility, and sure enough here comes the mold.
Thanks man, appreciate all your insight
Lots of concerns these days with testing and failure due to mold/mildew/mycotoxin/ecoli, etc. Never had this issue with HID rooms due to the radiant heat imo, and my dehui in this room is undersized, add in spores from the last round, genetic susceptibility, and sure enough here comes the mold.
Thanks man, appreciate all your insight
Last edited:
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Its easy for the ac to grow mold with rh spikes in led rooms from my experience. I tear them down every harvest and deep clean the inside unit. Hypochloris acid is a decend choice to sanitize. Some people suggest spraying the plants to kill mold with 200ml per gallon of 280ppm concentration. I cant speak to the safety of smoking it, but only having salt and vinegar as the ingredients in hocl, it may be a safe choice. Its certainly a good choice for sanitizing surfaces with plants in room vs bleach or other stuff.
LouDog420
Well-known member
AC was torn down and scrubbed/sanitized before this run. We used sodium hypochlorite for that. Appreciate the insight, MM. Seemed to be started by a fungus gnat, proliferated due to poor airflow, and more problematic from those genetically susceptible.
After seeing the mold basically shut down since we increased circulation, I'm not as worried for future rounds. Haven't seen any other issues arise since we took the top that was infected. We'll be running an ozone generator between runs as suggested by gman, plus standard cleaning.
Getting close, home stretch. Day 59 and still hanging on
Next round should be fun, we're refining selections so a lot of lower quality plants will be out, with some new faces and the old tried and true...
Down to a single OGC/NYCO from selections. The purpose was to bring the yield, vigor, and potency from the OGC and tack on some NYCO terps. Only one comes close to that criteria, so a bunch of easy culling decisions.
RKS x ChemD bx, I think we have our winner, but some nice plants that need another proper smoke test since this is the first round from clone. I've seen things run drastically differently from seed vs clone, so always like to run them as a cut before making final decisions...
We'll see a couple peyote purple phenos next run. A bunch of violeta phenos (Purple Malawi x Pakistani Chitral Kush). Then the same old AK's, OGC, Bubblehead, Cookiewreck polyhybrid. There is a double strawberry diesel f2 cut in there now, she is just a short quick little thing and was overgrown. We'll have to get some better placement for canopy management next round...
Plus a gold mine of seeds to choose from for next rounds' pop
Good vibes all,
LD
After seeing the mold basically shut down since we increased circulation, I'm not as worried for future rounds. Haven't seen any other issues arise since we took the top that was infected. We'll be running an ozone generator between runs as suggested by gman, plus standard cleaning.
Getting close, home stretch. Day 59 and still hanging on
Next round should be fun, we're refining selections so a lot of lower quality plants will be out, with some new faces and the old tried and true...
Down to a single OGC/NYCO from selections. The purpose was to bring the yield, vigor, and potency from the OGC and tack on some NYCO terps. Only one comes close to that criteria, so a bunch of easy culling decisions.
RKS x ChemD bx, I think we have our winner, but some nice plants that need another proper smoke test since this is the first round from clone. I've seen things run drastically differently from seed vs clone, so always like to run them as a cut before making final decisions...
We'll see a couple peyote purple phenos next run. A bunch of violeta phenos (Purple Malawi x Pakistani Chitral Kush). Then the same old AK's, OGC, Bubblehead, Cookiewreck polyhybrid. There is a double strawberry diesel f2 cut in there now, she is just a short quick little thing and was overgrown. We'll have to get some better placement for canopy management next round...
Plus a gold mine of seeds to choose from for next rounds' pop
Good vibes all,
LD
Last edited:
