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PuReKnOwLeDgE

Licensed Grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Well before you try any solutions be sure that you indeed have root rot or stem rot. That particular photo of mine is from stem rot.

My problem was I planted the stump of my clone to deep in the hydroton, and my system also was some times flooding one row. I have since fixed both problems and it is smooth sailing.

I did combat stem rot on 13/24 plants in a RDWC system, and pulled off my most epic harvest yet.

Once identfying the rotted parts of the stem, I would apply a light solution of physan 20 with cotton swabs to the rot its self. I would lower my water levels, I would dig out some hydroton to expose the rot and dry it with a fan. Daily I would apply hydrogen peroxide to the rot to help dry and kill, I used the wipes they make. I would make sure your nutrients are chilled, and add a shit ton of aquashiled to the mix. Keep adding back aquashield to keep populations up.

That is how I defeated stem rot, the round in the picture was actually a round the rot won. Rather then risk lossing anymore plants I tore down the whole system, cleaned my ass off and fixed my issues.

If it is not stem rot but root rot there are many ways to go about improving their condition. Although like Biggreen said the plants appear to be choking, which leads me to believe the lower stem of the plant is rotting.

Water levels are good at about 1-2 inches below the netpot, and make sure you don't plant to deep. I like to use clones with very long roots from the ezcloner.

Here is some pics of stem rot from the round I defeated the rot, the pics were taken after treatment had begun:


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I have grown this way for years, and never once encountered any rots until I had high water level issues. please let us know what you find, get into that hydroton and have a look. Hope that helps a fellow MI patient :)
 

greenwithenvy

Active member
Veteran
Roots and more roots.

Roots and more roots.

Ok this is the Grape skunk its the largest and the worst off. Roots look slimy but there not mushy there still alive I think? Hydroton removed for pic than replace back.

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This is one of the smaller ones its DCUOGK.

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This is what the Ice root structure looks like.

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I hope this helps or helps me.
 

PuReKnOwLeDgE

Licensed Grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I wonder what it looks like even deeper into the netpot?

You for sure need to attack root rot. There are so many ways to go about it, its all up to you. There is a thread around and the main topic is root rot. I don't really have the time at the moment to list of all the helpful and benficial things you could do to attck/kill the rot and prevent it in the future. Since there is already a thread all about it I am sure you will be able to put in the effort to read.

Would stay and help but need to finish tearing down some ladies. Please keep us upto date with what you find and are trying. I will check back in and try and lend a hand.
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
take PH and EC reading make a note what they are then take another reading 12-24 hours later does the
PH Rise and the EC/CF/PPM fall?
PH fall and the EC/CF/PPM rise?
If the PH Rise and CF/PPM fall your plants are starving
If the PH falls and CF/PPM rise your plants are over feeding.
you want to get the PH/EC/CF/PPM as stable as you can if they go one way or the other it will tell you what they need as said above = more feed or less feed the PH will tell you what way your plants are feeding.
PH fall = plants are drinking more water than than taking nutes = salt build up
PH rise = plants are taking more nutes than drinking water = less nutes.
as your plants grow they should take about the same nutes and water if they do it that will keep the PH/PPM stable if you get a rapid change with in hours you have a feeing problem to strong or to week thus reflecting the rapid PH rise or fall.
here an example
your original water as a PH of 7.8 after adding feed it drops to PH 6.2 you add 2 drops of acid and its now sitting at 5.5. what ever way the PH goes it will tell you what the plant is doing, if it goes up its stripping the buffer (feed and acid), if it goes down its drinking the water making the buffer (feed/ acid) rise because its more concentrated.
If the ppm/EC are stable or no rapid change with in 12-24 hours then its your environment thats out of wack
hope this makes sense? im fooked.


yo nut... we are growing in waterfarms,canna nutes, 6weeks into 12/12...

we using well water, 6.0ph, ppm's do not register on the nutrawand. we are feeding at around 450, as if we feed any higher, the ppm's go up.. the ph stays at 6.0 when we add the canna nutes, so we add some ph downto get the ph to 5.4/5.5.. usually when we check it (every day) the ppm's stay stable, and the ph drifts up aoround .1 or .2 every day.. so when we are ready to add more nutes, usually about 3 days later , the ph is around 6/6.1 .. from what we read u want the ph to drift.. correct??

2 days ago with the regular feeding, we added kool-bloom for the final time... the ppm's went up to around 800, and the ph stayed at 6.0 so we as usual added ph down to 5.4. yesterday the ppm went down slightly to around 750, but the ph spiked up to 5.9, and this morning the ppms are still at 750, the ph again went up to 6.1/6.2..

this morn what we did was added only water to get the ppm's down a bit. the water we ph'd down to 5.4, and will test the solution in a few hrs..

what u think??
 

greenwithenvy

Active member
Veteran
Kickin some RR ass.

Kickin some RR ass.

I gave a soft root massage to all in this 6 gallon bucket with 1 mil per gallon of Physan 20. Look at all the poopoo.

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Now they are in a bubble bath for the night and untill I get home tomorrow. 1 mil per gallon with nutes and Ph'ed down. I will clean the system and repeat untill the problem is solved.

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I Picked up the H2o2 for maintenance. I will use it each res change after the Physan 20.

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They gave me this stuff for free. Anyone got any input on it?

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Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
Yep root rot, caused by overwatering, I could tell from the first set of pics. Cut down the watering a lot, or his will continue to happen.
 

Work2much

Member
As stated above you should find the root rot thread and read it from start to finish there's lots of very good info in it.

There seems to be five very important steps in making DWC/RDWC buckets work smoothly.

1.No light to the roots.

2.Basic chemical nutes only, no organic thick additives.

3.Plant clones high enough to avoid stem rot.

4.Run a sterile rez with lots of H202. Bleach is good too, probably better then the H202.

5.Water chiller to keep temps high 60's.

Now of course you'll find people breaking these rules and doing well but these are a good safe starting point for RDWC success IMHO.
 

greenwithenvy

Active member
Veteran
As stated above you should find the root rot thread and read it from start to finish there's lots of very good info in it.

There seems to be five very important steps in making DWC/RDWC buckets work smoothly.

1.No light to the roots.

2.Basic chemical nutes only, no organic thick additives.

3.Plant clones high enough to avoid stem rot.

4.Run a sterile rez with lots of H202. Bleach is good too, probably better then the H202.

5.Water chiller to keep temps high 60's.

Now of course you'll find people breaking these rules and doing well but these are a good safe starting point for RDWC success IMHO.

Ive got all of those basics covered now. Now all I have to do is watch them come back to life. I hope to see some newer growth in the next week.
 

greenwithenvy

Active member
Veteran
FUCKIN DEAD

FUCKIN DEAD

Well its been like 2-3 months with these fuckers and it looks like the root rot won. I will give these mother fuckers one week and thats it. Im so sick of this bullshit. In 1 month an I have to renew my med license. That means ive been growing for a year now and for what 2 shitty grows. It seems like I have everything thats needed in RDWC grow except healthy plants. Im sooooo fucking pissed .

Three days with a physan 20 bath and the roots are clean now but dead.



 

smoke1sun

What Goes Around Comes Around. But Am I Comming Or
Veteran
Dude not on the level you have but I went through root root problems also. If i were you I would look into coco. Fast growing plants and a very forgiving medium. Now i'm not gonna lie theres still room for error. But I've always harvested something ;) when i went to coco.

Check out the recipe

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=81674
 

greenwithenvy

Active member
Veteran
Im not going to quit these buckets just yet. Ive got 2 rooms now and 2 of everything including chillers. Thanks for the advise.
 

smoke1sun

What Goes Around Comes Around. But Am I Comming Or
Veteran
Im not going to quit these buckets just yet. Ive got 2 rooms now and 2 of everything including chillers. Thanks for the advise.

I dont blame you, for the game of it all its fun to work things out.

I used my coco pots as an backup in my room before I switched to mostly coco, with a couple organic, and some hydroton. What we do is so fun.
 

greenwithenvy

Active member
Veteran
What we do is so fun.

I agree. Im a maintenance man. I fix things all day long, So when I cant fix something I get very frustrated. Im going to deffinatly keep a good supply of H2o2 around for now on. 3 mil per gallon EVERY 3 DAYS. I didnt do that. I want no bacteria at all. Just RO, Dyna grow, Cal-Mag, and maybe the occasional root enhancer. Thanks again
 

Bob-Hope

Member
A couple of things that might help your situation,if you make the drainage hole at the bottom of your buckets bigger,and feed your plants from the top through the hydroton i think you could do away with the air stones, and reduce the heat around your root zone.

I made this a couple of weeks ago.

1 x council recycle bin. £ Free
1 x 20ltr bucket. £3
1 x net pot. £0.89
1 x fish pump. £ 8
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Now with all the stuff i can see in your pictures, you could make a super luxury deluxe mega version, with very little change to your current set up.



BoB
 

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