chief bigsmoke
Active member
we have reached 100 pages.... time for a spiral bound booklet
Living organic soil from start through recycling
- Thread starter Gascanastan
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This strain is not for me. If it doesnt have physical pain relief properties its an automatic fail.
I dont want a full on indica. I like a strong sativa dominant hybrid. But it has to have adequate pain relief properties.
Hey Rev, even those OMRI organic nutes are not truly living organics...right?
B
BlueJayWay
TOO kind CC, and after I smoke her, I hope I'm two places @ one time.
I would like to have a massive variety on hand, sometimes I want to take to the skies, like back in the day from that occasional brick that blew your mind. I'm going to grow more sat's, just for myself, not for the braindead knuckleheads @ the disp. "it's not kush, it's not dense" blah blah blah fool.
I believe that's when my best epiphanies come to me.
I can see clearly now, the rain is gone
B
BlueJayWay
Humongous bundle of organic dandelions @ the nutrition center for $1 - none growing around these parts, they had red veined varieties also
Tomorrows breakfast = yarrow/kelp tea, some nettle/kelp tea & some worm shit tea for shits 'n giggles, oh yeah, some are getting just a tall glass of water, imagine that?
Tomorrows breakfast = yarrow/kelp tea, some nettle/kelp tea & some worm shit tea for shits 'n giggles, oh yeah, some are getting just a tall glass of water, imagine that?
I see what you're saying.
I've been given some really "dank" looking flowers. But density, aroma, and name really have nothing to do with my personal desired effect.
I love being "awaken" by a beautiful sativa effect. But i cannot grow a strain without any pain relief indica properties. The strains i grow arent just for me really. They're for my mom, my father, brother. Really when it comes down to it im the last guy on the totem pole. "I'm just the grower" lol.
IncredibowlBoss
Member
Wish we had more of that and less "But I'M the fucking grower!!"
lol, well there's a lot more of a back story to it, but yeah. I do this for my family mainly, Not me.
IncredibowlBoss
Member
I feel ya bud - I have 5 patients who depend on me - in too many cases, in lieu of proper medical attention because they're low income and uninsured.
This technique can be modified for cooler times of the year and cooler climates which we will be talking about, but before that, let's go over the basic idea of solarization.
Basic Overview:
One of the best non-chemical ways to get rid weeds, and some diseases and pests, is to solarize your soil.
While normally this technique is used in areas with lots of sun and high temperatures, it can be modified for cooler areas and for cooler times of the year.
The results may not be as long lasting or effective, but it can sure help if you are having a battle against weeds.
Solarization is a simple non-chemical technique that captures the radiant heat and energy from the sun and causes physical, chemical, and biological changes in the soil. These changes lead to control, or suppression, of soil-borne plant pathogens such as fungi, bacteria, nematodes, and pests along with weed seeds and seedlings.
Solarization consists of covering the soil with a clear plastic tarp for 4 to 6 weeks during a hot period of the year when the soil will receive maximum direct sunlight. When properly done, the top 6 inches (15 cm) soil will heat up to as high as 125° F (52 ° C).
Over several weeks, that's hot enough to kill a wide range of soil inhabiting pests such as; wilt and root rot fungi, root knot nematodes and noxious weed seed.
In addition, solarization stimulates the release of nutrients from organic matter present in the soil. It is especially effective for treating garden soils, where the intent is to plant vegetables, herbs, and flowers.
Modifications:
Now I have used this technique, with very good results, during the fall and winter months.
Don't always listen to the so called "experts" that tell you this can only be done during warm weather, because I have personally tested this in the fall and winter and it works great.
You may have to leave the plastic on a bit longer, and you will only kill weeds and some weed seeds in the most upper level of the soil surface, because the soil won't get hot enough to kill soilborne diseases and pests, but if you want to clear weeds out the easy way, it will work!
Note: Never be afraid to test techniques for your own purposes!
How to Solarize Soil Normally and With Modifications:
The area to be solarized should be free of debris and large dirt clods.
If you have clods, till the area to be treated. It is necessary to break up soil clods and plant debris in order to enhance heat conduction through the soil. The soil surface should be raked smooth before covering with plastic. A fine soil surface will allow the plastic covering to be placed in close contact with the soil, with few air pockets to interfere with direct solar heating.
Modification:
If you have a weedy area that is out of control, or grass that is hard to get rid of even with tilling, cut down the weeds and get rid of the grass as best you can, and then proceed with the next steps.
The soil should be moistened if dry, but not saturated. Wet soil conducts heat better that dry soil, so it should have a crumbly damp look to it, like it would at planting time.
Place clear plastic over the soil surface and bury the edges, or place bricks or heavy objects on the edges, to keep the plastic in place and from blowing away.
Modification:
Many people always recommend using clear plastic because the idea is that clear plastic produces higher temperatures faster because the sunlight passes through the clear plastic to heat the soil. While this is true, if you are in a cooler climate or a cooler time of the year, I have found that black plastic works just as well because it absorbs the heat making it quite hot. The soil surface near this hot plastic gets quite warm, which as stated above, may not be hot enough to kill diseases or some weed seeds, but it will clear the area nicely of weeds and some seeds.
I know that the black colour can intercept the light, and some heat can be lost to the outside air, but try it.
The plastic can be clear construction grade plastic and vary in thickness from 1 to 6 mils. The thinner plastic (1-2 mils) will allow better soil heating since it will reflect less solar energy.
Large sheets of plastic to use for solarization are available at hardware and home supply stores.
The plastic should be left in place for 4-6 weeks.
Modification:
In cooler temperatures, leave on for 8-10 weeks.
True solarization is most effective when done during the hottest time of the year, which for some people is in June - July, or depending on your geographic location, May, August, and September.
That said, do try it during other times of the year and see how it works for you, because I have, and have found it a very useful aid in weed control.
Overall, solarization is by far, the most effective way home gardeners have to reduce or eliminate soil-borne garden pests. Plus, it allows you the flexibility to put the plastic down in any area that is giving you problems.
The tangible benefits: Healthier and more productive flower and vegetable gardens!
Basic Overview:
One of the best non-chemical ways to get rid weeds, and some diseases and pests, is to solarize your soil.
While normally this technique is used in areas with lots of sun and high temperatures, it can be modified for cooler areas and for cooler times of the year.
The results may not be as long lasting or effective, but it can sure help if you are having a battle against weeds.
Solarization is a simple non-chemical technique that captures the radiant heat and energy from the sun and causes physical, chemical, and biological changes in the soil. These changes lead to control, or suppression, of soil-borne plant pathogens such as fungi, bacteria, nematodes, and pests along with weed seeds and seedlings.
Solarization consists of covering the soil with a clear plastic tarp for 4 to 6 weeks during a hot period of the year when the soil will receive maximum direct sunlight. When properly done, the top 6 inches (15 cm) soil will heat up to as high as 125° F (52 ° C).
Over several weeks, that's hot enough to kill a wide range of soil inhabiting pests such as; wilt and root rot fungi, root knot nematodes and noxious weed seed.
In addition, solarization stimulates the release of nutrients from organic matter present in the soil. It is especially effective for treating garden soils, where the intent is to plant vegetables, herbs, and flowers.
Modifications:
Now I have used this technique, with very good results, during the fall and winter months.
Don't always listen to the so called "experts" that tell you this can only be done during warm weather, because I have personally tested this in the fall and winter and it works great.
You may have to leave the plastic on a bit longer, and you will only kill weeds and some weed seeds in the most upper level of the soil surface, because the soil won't get hot enough to kill soilborne diseases and pests, but if you want to clear weeds out the easy way, it will work!
Note: Never be afraid to test techniques for your own purposes!
How to Solarize Soil Normally and With Modifications:
The area to be solarized should be free of debris and large dirt clods.
If you have clods, till the area to be treated. It is necessary to break up soil clods and plant debris in order to enhance heat conduction through the soil. The soil surface should be raked smooth before covering with plastic. A fine soil surface will allow the plastic covering to be placed in close contact with the soil, with few air pockets to interfere with direct solar heating.
Modification:
If you have a weedy area that is out of control, or grass that is hard to get rid of even with tilling, cut down the weeds and get rid of the grass as best you can, and then proceed with the next steps.
The soil should be moistened if dry, but not saturated. Wet soil conducts heat better that dry soil, so it should have a crumbly damp look to it, like it would at planting time.
Place clear plastic over the soil surface and bury the edges, or place bricks or heavy objects on the edges, to keep the plastic in place and from blowing away.
Modification:
Many people always recommend using clear plastic because the idea is that clear plastic produces higher temperatures faster because the sunlight passes through the clear plastic to heat the soil. While this is true, if you are in a cooler climate or a cooler time of the year, I have found that black plastic works just as well because it absorbs the heat making it quite hot. The soil surface near this hot plastic gets quite warm, which as stated above, may not be hot enough to kill diseases or some weed seeds, but it will clear the area nicely of weeds and some seeds.
I know that the black colour can intercept the light, and some heat can be lost to the outside air, but try it.
The plastic can be clear construction grade plastic and vary in thickness from 1 to 6 mils. The thinner plastic (1-2 mils) will allow better soil heating since it will reflect less solar energy.
Large sheets of plastic to use for solarization are available at hardware and home supply stores.
The plastic should be left in place for 4-6 weeks.
Modification:
In cooler temperatures, leave on for 8-10 weeks.
True solarization is most effective when done during the hottest time of the year, which for some people is in June - July, or depending on your geographic location, May, August, and September.
That said, do try it during other times of the year and see how it works for you, because I have, and have found it a very useful aid in weed control.
Overall, solarization is by far, the most effective way home gardeners have to reduce or eliminate soil-borne garden pests. Plus, it allows you the flexibility to put the plastic down in any area that is giving you problems.
The tangible benefits: Healthier and more productive flower and vegetable gardens!
T
Toes.
The farmer who first told me about solarization said to use black visqueen... its quicker than the clear.
Supposedly its what he did to rid his tomato plot of fungal wilt.
Supposedly its what he did to rid his tomato plot of fungal wilt.
I found a farm co-op that grows organic wheat, barley, oats, spelt and rye in Eastern Oregon. They also sell some (not much) of the straw and organic straw is almost unheard of in this part of the world anyway.
I made arrangements for 2 bales of barley straw and 2 bales of oat straw for composting and to mulch the raised beds. 4 bales was only $30.00 delivered to a small farm store a few miles away.
This should make some really nice compost by next spring as well as worm food.
CC
I made arrangements for 2 bales of barley straw and 2 bales of oat straw for composting and to mulch the raised beds. 4 bales was only $30.00 delivered to a small farm store a few miles away.
This should make some really nice compost by next spring as well as worm food.
CC
T
Toes.
Mmm, oats, wheat, barley.... im ready for breakfast... and a pale ale 
gregor_mendel
Active member
Trouble with fresh aloe
Trouble with fresh aloe
I bought several aloe plants when I started reading this thread.
My first time using aloe gel from them was this morning, mixed with potassium silicate to treat PM on my squash vines.
My sprayer kept clogging, and after about ten times unclogging, I poured out my solution and cleaned my sprayer.
The problem was bits of aloe gel clogging the sprayer.
Questions:
1. Does this happen with bottled gel, such as Lily of the Desert?
2. Does anyone here strain their aloe gel, fresh or bottled?
thanks in advance
g_m
Trouble with fresh aloe
I bought several aloe plants when I started reading this thread.
My first time using aloe gel from them was this morning, mixed with potassium silicate to treat PM on my squash vines.
My sprayer kept clogging, and after about ten times unclogging, I poured out my solution and cleaned my sprayer.
The problem was bits of aloe gel clogging the sprayer.
Questions:
1. Does this happen with bottled gel, such as Lily of the Desert?
2. Does anyone here strain their aloe gel, fresh or bottled?
thanks in advance
g_m
maybe send the gel though a food processor with some water to get a nice homogenous consistency.
I've been able to break up the globs I've been getting from my plants enough by hand to go through my watering can, but they would definitely clog my pump sprayer.
I've been able to break up the globs I've been getting from my plants enough by hand to go through my watering can, but they would definitely clog my pump sprayer.
IncredibowlBoss
Member
I strain anything going into the sprayer with a nylon mesh tea filter - the nozzle holes are so small that anything but liquid jams them up. Then whatever I strain out dries for a day, then gets fed to the worms, so it gets into the plant one way or another
T
Toes.
The Introduction to Sustainability course given free by the University of Illinois starts tomorrow at Coursera. org
Free learnin.
Free learnin.
B
BlueJayWay
Lilly of the desert - consistency of water, so no clogging issues.
Fresh aloe - I would strain it, or blend it up with a magic bullet/blender or whatever & then strain to avoid clogging issues.
Fresh aloe - I would strain it, or blend it up with a magic bullet/blender or whatever & then strain to avoid clogging issues.
gregor_mendel
Active member
heady bluntz, IncrediblebowlBoss, Toes., BlueJayWay:
Thanks.
I think I will get the Lily of the Desert.
I can get it locally for $8 a pint or $25 a gallon.
In the future, I will use bottled for foliar, and fresh plant for drench.
Thanks.
I think I will get the Lily of the Desert.
I can get it locally for $8 a pint or $25 a gallon.
In the future, I will use bottled for foliar, and fresh plant for drench.
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