Lifecycle of the Mite

[Ur Humbl Nr8tor]

lockdown just means that the ecology of the soil jives with the ecology of the mite. When it doesn't, you have an outbreak . You said "bugproof".

Seems to me that when the soil ecology jives with the ecology of the mite, you will have outbreaks. What you want is a soil that DOES NOT jive with the ecology of the mite...then you have a means of resistance. Even so, nasties like mites are still going to be able to attack your "locked down soil" plants, they just won't be as likely to cause severe devastation.

Since this thread has taken a turn towards the dark side...I'd ask you to consider providing some real and applicable information on what you term "lock down". I notice you've mentioned it several times, but I have yet to see any practical information on how one achieves this Alcatraz soil, as it were.

I am slowly catching up on the living soil thread and I can say with fair assurance that Gas, Coot, BJW, et. al. know what they are typing about. In the sense of providing a very conducive soil for plant health...and in dealing with the predators that are likely to be a nuisance during a growing cycle. They do this with real world proofs...something I've yet to see you provide.

I'm all eyes for anything you can contribute...Best.

 

[Ur Humbl Nr8tor]

I don't think I've seen beneficial bugs come up in this thread, but probably belongs here.

Mite you recommend something like this? There's several I see for spider mites which makes me wonder which are most effective and/or ideal for indoor garden situations.
Was it the rove beetles you recommended for mites, or was that the fungus gnats?

I've used them nemo-toads in the soil and was very happy.

BJW, mite selection would depend on your indoor conditions. Examples...

G. occidentalisThese 0.5 mm. mites are noted for their ability to actively hunt in extremely hot conditions without a need for the higher relative humidity as is favored by most predatory mites. Since two-spotted mites like hot, dry conditions, it’s almost a surprise this mite is more popular in its usage. This predator feeds mostly on the two-spotted mite, Tetranychus urticae, and its relatives but happily moves to different prey when needed.M. longipesThese 0.5 mm. mites are noted for their ability to actively hunt in extremely dry conditions. More so even than the predatory mite listed above. The difference lies in temperature tolerances. This predator, again like the one listed above, has the same food preference. Old Mister Two-Spots, but not others unfortunately.N. californicusThese 0.5 mm. mites are noted for their ability to actively hunt in conditions where prey is few and far between. This mite has also made a bit of a name for itself by being able to deal with some of the nearly microscopic species, like broad mites, Polyphagotarsenomus =Hemitarsonemus latus, cycalems mites, Phtyodromus =Steneotarsonemus pallidus, tomato russet mites — preventively — Aculops lycopersici, etc. This mite is extremely similar to Neoseiulus fallacis in diet preference and on many other levels to the point of confusion at times.I have a small outbreak and chose N. californicus and N. fallacis for there ability to manage in slightly cooler conditions and because they are able to survive with minimal outbreaks compared to G. occidentalis and M. longipes requiring heavier populations for sustenance.

Good luck...

 

[Greenheart]

Thankfully all I have ever needed to get rid of mites was time and neem solution. It important it is to get the front and back of every leaf when using neem!

That can't be stressed enough. Every Leaf & stem. I applied every other day for a week whenever I ran across them. In addition I would defoliate down to new growth and a few small fans at each tip to help avoid leaf matting and cut down on amount of solution/time needed. Also don't forget to clean the the room.

 

[Gascanastan]

These last 3 posts^^^.....this is how these threads need to roll. K+ doodz

 

[ClackamasCootz]

it's easier to learn how to use poisons than it is to to learn how to grow vital plants

This program would definitely be a huge benefit for you and your ill-informed sycophants - certainly couldn't hurt, KWIM?

 

[Ur Humbl Nr8tor]

This program would definitely be a huge benefit for you and your ill-informed sycophants - certainly couldn't hurt, KWIM?

Hooked on Hi-Dro-Pawn-Iks...the anti ROLS solution. lol.

 

[BlueJayWay]

BJW, mite selection would depend on your indoor conditions.

I have a small outbreak and chose N. californicus and N. fallacis for there ability to manage in slightly cooler conditions and because they are able to survive with minimal outbreaks compared to G. occidentalis and M. longipes requiring heavier populations for sustenance.

Good luck...

That is notable info! I was also considering N. californicus for the same reason -

In addition I would defoliate down to new growth and a few small fans at each tip...QUOTE]

Yup! This worked perfect for incoming dispensary clones

 

[Ur Humbl Nr8tor]

That is notable info! I was also considering N. californicus for the same reason -

In addition I would defoliate down to new growth and a few small fans at each tip...QUOTE]

Yup! This worked perfect for incoming dispensary clones

Just added these good bugs yesterday afternoon. Having some cool weather right now, but I'm hopeful the little critters will like their new digs. Previously, I had been rotation spraying with neem, cilantro/garlic/capsacin, rosemary, clove/mint.

Kept the mites in check, but wouldn't completely eradicate them. I'm hoping the predators knock out what's left. I'll keep you posted.

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Spinosad

 

[Oregonism]

Seems like if your soil was on lock-down, you wouldn't need SO much mite resistance. Especially in organic gardening? Are you using any synthetic chemical ferts?

That's debatable I guess, since this is the "organic soil" forum? LMAO

I don't agree with everything being used in said Organic Forum, but that's life, at least it aint the Dutch Master forum. Do you use magic water or something

That said, I admire y'all who are sticking to the persistent rotation of mite reduction, tis the life the of an organicist.

 

[Aotf]

it's easier to learn how to use poisons than it is to to learn how to grow vital plants

Modern mite control = Cryptozoology

While screaming read a book and learn some facts, are they really providing any of their own.

Gascanastan, how childish, you have a weed growing club, congratulations. Tell the world, for all I care. I am neither jealous or impressed, just conscious of the bullshit peddled in these forums by the so called "experts".

Where are the original thoughts about mite control? Rather than the repeated mantra's produced by surprise!.......companies who sell a product.

Who is embedded here to sell the product? and will justify an end to that means even by lying or whatever means that is?

Read a fucking book indeed said Hans Jenny.

 

[MileHighGuy]

Modern mite control = Cryptozoology

While screaming read a book and learn some facts, are they really providing any of their own.

Gascanastan, how childish, you have a weed growing club, congratulations. Tell the world, for all I care. I am neither jealous or impressed, just conscious of the bullshit peddled in these forums by the so called "experts".

Where are the original thoughts about mite control? Rather than the repeated mantra's produced by surprise!.......companies who sell a product.

Who is embedded here to sell the product? and will justify an end to that means even by lying or whatever means that is?

Read a fucking book indeed said Hans Jenny.

WTF are you talking about.

None of these individuals sell a product... Are you that dense?

This is a community of people assisting you to STOP buying stuff.

Just tonight, from the information given FREELY by these people I'll be employing a very handy Cilantro Tea for Spider Mites.

NOW WHICH ONE OF YOU IS SLANGING THAT CILANTRO??

 

[Microbeman]

Modern mite control = Cryptozoology

While screaming read a book and learn some facts, are they really providing any of their own.

Gascanastan, how childish, you have a weed growing club, congratulations. Tell the world, for all I care. I am neither jealous or impressed, just conscious of the bullshit peddled in these forums by the so called "experts".

Where are the original thoughts about mite control? Rather than the repeated mantra's produced by surprise!.......companies who sell a product.

Who is embedded here to sell the product? and will justify an end to that means even by lying or whatever means that is?

Read a fucking book indeed said Hans Jenny.

Now I agree. You do need to read what is written.

 

[Gascanastan]

Modern mite control = Cryptozoology

While screaming read a book and learn some facts, are they really providing any of their own.

Gascanastan, how childish, you have a weed growing club, congratulations. Tell the world, for all I care. I am neither jealous or impressed, just conscious of the bullshit peddled in these forums by the so called "experts".

Where are the original thoughts about mite control? Rather than the repeated mantra's produced by surprise!.......companies who sell a product.

Who is embedded here to sell the product? and will justify an end to that means even by lying or whatever means that is?

Read a fucking book indeed said Hans Jenny.

Not much more than a troll at this point....

 

[Gascanastan]

Nevermind...this is like trying to teach someone who paints with shit that there is actually a difference between shit and paint. He ain't smokin herb...that cat's smoking Testors airplane glue..Orange label

 

[Ur Humbl Nr8tor]

Spinosad

Actually, I started with Spinosad before I scoped. I was originally thinking it was thrips. Hadn't experienced mites in a long time. Serves me right bringing an unknown cut into my garden with inadequate quarantine. The Spinosad just wasn't knocking them down fast enough. Maybe the bottle was past its prime. If the friendlies don't work, I'll grab some fresh juice.

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Doubtful that it could go bad being a bacteria culture but I'm not sure. Did you buy a product that was ready to spray and did not require diluting?

CC

 

[Ur Humbl Nr8tor]

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Doubtful that it could go bad being a bacteria culture but I'm not sure. CC

Those were my thoughts.

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Did you buy a product that was ready to spray and did not require diluting?CC

Bingo.

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

There are probably several Spinosad products but the two that are easy to find are Monterey Garden Products Spinosad Concentrate and Bonide's "Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew" which is a retail product but it is a concentrate. Amazon sells the Monterey Gardens' concentrate and some grow store might carry it as well. Probably depends on where you live.

I have not used Monterey Garden's ready-to-spray product because of how poor their Neem oil product performs - it too is premixed and it's as worthless as the Einstein Oil gunk.

Captain Jack's runs about $20.00 for pint at grow stores. Monterey Garden's Concentrate is the same price but you 2x the amount. It doesn't matter which one you purchase because the actual Spinosad ingredient is manufactured by Eli Lilly who has the exclusive on all Spinosad products in North America.

I was surprised to read your comments that you found it lacking. The concentrates are very effective - complete and total kill-zone. Because it's not a plant compound it doesn't degrade from air and light it remains effective for a few days. I use Spinosad at the start to wipe out the herd and then follow up with other materials that work in completely different ways than Spinosad which works on the nervous system of the insect preventing eating, reproducing, etc. It is not a contact pesticide like synthetics.

CC

 

[Ur Humbl Nr8tor]

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

There are probably several Spinosad products but the two that are easy to find are Monterey Garden Products Spinosad Concentrate and Bonide's "Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew" which is a retail product but it is a concentrate. Amazon sells the Monterey Gardens' concentrate and some grow store might carry it as well. Probably depends on where you live.

I have not used Monterey Garden's ready-to-spray product because of how poor their Neem oil product performs - it too is premixed and it's as worthless as the Einstein Oil gunk.

Captain Jack's runs about $20.00 for pint at grow stores. Monterey Garden's Concentrate is the same price but you 2x the amount. It doesn't matter which one you purchase because the actual Spinosad ingredient is manufactured by Eli Lilly who has the exclusive on all Spinosad products in North America.

I was surprised to read your comments that you found it lacking. The concentrates are very effective - complete and total kill-zone. Because it's not a plant compound it doesn't degrade from air and light it remains effective for a few days. I use Spinosad at the start to wipe out the herd and then follow up with other materials that work in completely different ways than Spinosad which works on the nervous system of the insect preventing eating, reproducing, etc. It is not a contact pesticide like synthetics.

CC

Product I used was Captain Jacks, but it was a diluted spray bottle version. I've seen the concentrate and will pick up a pint my next visit to the shop.

I hit the plants several times over a couple of weeks with it, and it knocked them back but didn't eradicate completely. I then went on a rotation of several organic concoctions mentioned in the Living OS thread. I decided to bring in the Calvary (predators) to finish the job and perhaps apply some scouting for my flip into flower.