-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
Let's see and hear about your sick plants!!
- Thread starter Gypsy Nirvana
- Start date
Just by looking it looks like your pH is too high and locking out trace minerals, probably iron. Micronutrients show on the younger leaves and growing shoots first. .
Pédetoddy
Well-known member
Just by looking it looks like your pH is too high and locking out trace minerals, probably iron. Micronutrients show on the younger leaves and growing shoots first. .
Thanks
laszlokovacs
Well-known member
Hey all super inexperienced and would love some guidance on the following. I discovered last night some spider mites and found out this morning the extent of the infestation. I grow in a tiny space in my small closet w several lights to get veg stuff for my outdoor gardens. There is heavy speckling and eggs under some leaves across a variety of species of plants. I chopped two tiny autoflowers i didnt want that had bad infestations. Did the same with a basil plant that had it as well. Under my main light I am growing 2 stabilized mutations- freakshow and an ABC cross which i examined pretty thoroughly and cant seem to find any spider mites yet which based on leaf size/shape seems more or less plausible + I recently moved them there. However I have 3 6 cell trays of pepper plant starts w pretty bad speckling and eggs under the leaves with a few spider mites next to them which i took out just now. I also found light speckling on another tiny 6 inch plant but cut off 80% of leaves and all affected ones and put it outdoors on my window where temperatures are under 50 at night now hoping that will kill the few left. I believe i have found the plants responsible as being some small rooted cuttings of fruit plants i bought online 3.5 weeks ago from a commercial nursery because they were the only places I found small webs around the plants and on growth that occurred before i received them in the mail. Might be my fault for not quarantining them but still not gonna buy from them again I don't think.
The good thing is any infested or potentially infested plants are pretty small w the biggest being the mutants in the picture at 1 quart containers. I don't really know how to get rid of mites because this is my first time finding them but from what I understand drenching or soaking the leaves is important so I can easily submerge them completely at this size. What should i do? Just want someone to confirm this is actually a spider mite (bad pic sorry)+ do u thing the lil web pictured is the likely original location? . Anyone experience mutants having high resistance to spider mites? Here r some pics to show u whats going on
The good thing is any infested or potentially infested plants are pretty small w the biggest being the mutants in the picture at 1 quart containers. I don't really know how to get rid of mites because this is my first time finding them but from what I understand drenching or soaking the leaves is important so I can easily submerge them completely at this size. What should i do? Just want someone to confirm this is actually a spider mite (bad pic sorry)+ do u thing the lil web pictured is the likely original location? . Anyone experience mutants having high resistance to spider mites? Here r some pics to show u whats going on
Attachments
At the first sign of spider mites, one needs to act fast. When I had a run with spider mites, I used a couple of spoons of cold press neem oil mixed with in a qt. of warm RO water. I added one drop of dish soap to the oil to help the oil stick to the plant better. Spray on top and bottom of all the leaves and then repeat every 3 days for 12 days total. Spider mites have many stages of growth and will need many applications to get rid of them. If you don't stop them they will over-run your garden. Always only spray younger plants and never on older plants' flowers because the oil will ruin the flowers. War on mites!
laszlokovacs
Well-known member
Yes thank you for the advice! I will probably have to buy neem soon for this summers outdoors anyway but since my infestation was pretty light i just defoliated the worst leaves and submerged the entire plants up to the base of the stem in a bucket with 2 gal of tap water, 4oz 91% isoproyl and a couple tbsps of dish soap. Luckily all my plants are young and many are vegetable plants so if need be I can use more aggressive stuff. Hoping this is enough for now will dunk again in 3 days + mist leaves throughout the day w water. Probably going to stick with water/alcohol/soap for now, what do you think would be most effective, dunking plants completely in the solution for 15-30 seconds or spraying on the same solution w a spray bottle, maybe more concentrated? Idk i might do both just have never encountered this assholes before, Im feeling optimistic tho i think I cleaned the space n all the leaves well, just gonna crank the humidity up a bit cuz i heard it helpsAt the first sign of spider mites, one needs to act fast. When I had a run with spider mites, I used a couple of spoons of cold press neem oil mixed with in a qt. of warm RO water. I added one drop of dish soap to the oil to help the oil stick to the plant better. Spray on top and bottom of all the leaves and then repeat every 3 days for 12 days total. Spider mites have many stages of growth and will need many applications to get rid of them. If you don't stop them they will over-run your garden. Always only spray younger plants and never on older plants' flowers because the oil will ruin the flowers. War on mites!
St. Phatty
Active member
It's better to have a sick plant than no plant.
laszlokovacs
Well-known member
Very true! Also learned in the past few days it is better to have a living plant with just a few healthy leaves than many pest-ridden leaves.
Makingmyway
New member
Oreoz strain in coco
House garden nutes with technaflora calmag at 50ppm in ro tank
Temps 77 humidity 62
Tried flushing dimmed lights turned down AC added more cal mag added straight mag nothing worked turn lights back up let heat rise nothing has worked new growth growing in like this
Runoff 950 in 850 out
5.8 in 6.1 out
No bugs incmedium on leaves
2 other strains in room look beautiful help please
House garden nutes with technaflora calmag at 50ppm in ro tank
Temps 77 humidity 62
Tried flushing dimmed lights turned down AC added more cal mag added straight mag nothing worked turn lights back up let heat rise nothing has worked new growth growing in like this
Runoff 950 in 850 out
5.8 in 6.1 out
No bugs incmedium on leaves
2 other strains in room look beautiful help please
Attachments
I don't know with coco but a 5.8 pH is a little low for me. Phosphorus will lock up when the pH gets below 6 pH. I would raise it to 6.2 for a while and see if that helps. Good luck
St. Phatty
Active member
Unless you put the sick plant next to a crop of healthy plants and they all get sick.
CannaRed
Cannabinerd
I guess it may be different because we live in different sides of the world, but I always heard that basically the only bug commonly found on cannabis that would have antennae are springtails. You guys may have another bug with antenna tho.
Maybe a starting point. Kinda looks like I see antenna on one of those
Maybe a starting point. Kinda looks like I see antenna on one of those
Those are thrips. The black spots are called frass. Frass is bug poop. Spinosad would be first on the list to control them.
@CannaRed , all insects have a pair of antennae.
CannaRed
Cannabinerd
Thank you! I don't get much pests other than mites.
I appreciate the correction!
ConeSmoker
Member
I have no plants atm but at least they are not sick
Three Berries
Active member
I have a couple in flower that were raised on too much Ca and now can't get the pH down. But still producing. Both nute burn and the worst is yellowing.
Last two weeks have been nothing but well or rain, rain as of late to run off but it's stuck at 5.9 pH.. Using some Ca and Mg in a foliar spray. Which perked up the flower tippy tops. Gave me puffier white pistils. But my CO2 is down to normal levels too. And the veg tent to avoid that issue I now have one looking a little yellow. it's always been a runt but been giving more direct light to catch up until the flower is done. It's not near as yellow in the real light as the pic. But the varying leaf colors are there.
Last two weeks have been nothing but well or rain, rain as of late to run off but it's stuck at 5.9 pH.. Using some Ca and Mg in a foliar spray. Which perked up the flower tippy tops. Gave me puffier white pistils. But my CO2 is down to normal levels too. And the veg tent to avoid that issue I now have one looking a little yellow. it's always been a runt but been giving more direct light to catch up until the flower is done. It's not near as yellow in the real light as the pic. But the varying leaf colors are there.
Last edited:
Damp Off in Seedlings
https://extension.umn.edu/solve-problem/how-prevent-seedling-damping
Damping off is a disease of seedlings
Seedlings infected by damping off rarely survive to produce a vigorous plant. Quite often a large section or an entire tray of seedlings is killed.
Visible damping off fungus growing on an emerging seedling.
Once plants have mature leaves and a well developed root system, they are better able to naturally resist the fungus or mold that causes damping off. There is a critical period of growth between planting and maturity when special care needs to be taken to protect sensitive seedlings.
A wide variety of vegetables and flowers can be affected by damping off. Young leaves, roots and stems of newly emerged seedlings are highly susceptible to infection. Under certain environmental conditions, damping off pathogens can cause root rot or crown rot in mature plants.
The fungi, Rhizoctonia spp. and Fusarium spp., along with the water mold Pythiumspp. are the most common pathogens responsible for damping off.
Hi All! I’m having trouble with powdery mildew so I sprayed a new clone that I’m trying to root with a 1:3 mix of heavy cream and water but now the plant is terribly wilting! I sprayed it pretty heavily so that the leaves were soaked and the mix was dripping off. Could the heavy cream be the cause or the amount I applied or something else? I did it about 12 hours ago and it’s just looking worse 
