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crazytrainwreck

New member
So the gypsum won't help raise the pH or raising the pH is undesirable in my case?
Can you elaborate on the P being half the K with Maxibloom? Chemistry isn't my strongpoint, so I'm not following. Thanks much for all the help!
 
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shepso

New member
ive started to use a grow tent 400w lighting,plants were looking great,now though they have yellowing,and a glossy look...ive sorayed with neem oil mixed with soap and water for two days...any suggestions,,,ive clipped of damaged leaves
 
Midnite Toker

Midnite Toker

Active member
Veteran
Good day all! So I've left my clones on 24 hour light too long and forced them into flower, a airy little bud starting on each branch tip. I'm on day 3 of 18/6 but my ladies all look stressed. What can I do?:tiphat:~mT
 
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slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
crazytrainwreck said:
So the gypsum won't help raise the pH or raising the pH is undesirable in my case?
Can you elaborate on the P being half the K with Maxibloom? Chemistry isn't my strongpoint, so I'm not following. Thanks much for all the help!
Click to expand...

What you see on an analysis is N, P2O5 and K2O.

http://www.agroservicesinternational.com/Education/Fert6.html

We know from many many trials, that the real relation ship we would ideally run is 1 K for 1 P.

Take your analysis and look at the conversion factor on that table. Whala!
 
Midnite Toker

Midnite Toker

Active member
Veteran
Midnite Toker said:
Good day all! So I've left my clones on 24 hour light too long and forced them into flower, a airy little bud starting on each branch tip. I'm on day 3 of 18/6 but my ladies all look stressed. What can I do?:tiphat:~mT
Click to expand...

They aren't drinking any water.....should I nip off the tips.....
 
F

fredDRO.MoBB

Member

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fredDRO.MoBB

Member
I use reverse osmosis water at 17Celsius. soil is happy frog and it's 14 days into vegetative stage. all new growth seem to b really light green/yellowish and growth seems to b slower den usual.
 
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I wood

Well-known member
Midnite Toker said:
Good day all! So I've left my clones on 24 hour light too long and forced them into flower, a airy little bud starting on each branch tip. I'm on day 3 of 18/6 but my ladies all look stressed. What can I do?:tiphat:~mT
Click to expand...

Some varieties are prone to the autoflower under stress response.
I have several plants that do it any time they don't root quickly. Overwater or underwater at first transplant, a little too cold, any extra stress seems to trigger it. Once they get established growth returns to normal.
I grew with 24 hours of light in veg for many years and did notice a big reduction in this after switching to 18 hours of light.
 
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anurag

Member
Help please. New growth is now stunted, not elongating as normal. There is some twisting and some tip growth has light colored tips.Also, the new growth is knarled, corrugated My ph tester was worn out, then I bought a newer, better one and discovered that the bottled water, which was 6.3 ph last year, is now 8.3. So today and yesterday, I am lowering it to 6.3. The medium is soil; some fox farm of mixed with promix with 1 cup of dolomite lime/15 gallons mix. Could it be that the plants will grow out of this as they get watered with properly ph'd water? Thanks for any help.
 
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fredDRO.MoBB

Member
how far are ur lights? and are u using cold water? my plants growth got stunted n new leaves were super lime green close to yellow and once I brought my light closers n fed wit room temp water it's slowly getting better now. can we get pics?
 
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anurag

Member
Hi fredDro.MoBB, Thank you for replying. The lights are 315 cmh at around 18 inches above the plants. It looks like the problem is going away. A friend who is a retired scientist came over and helped me with calibrating the meter and educating me about anions, cations, buffering and such. She thinks I toxified the soil by adding unwashed dulse seaweed to the soil mix. So I flushed each pot as soon as they needed watering with ph 6.2 half tapwater and half distilled water. Tomorrow I'm going to re-pot them and skip the un-washed seaweed, I have plenty of liquid seaweed extract to use. Not 100% positive about everything yet, but some of the frozen growing tips have atarted to elongate again. Also, the water is just about 68 degrees. I don't know how to send pics.
 
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anurag

Member
I have a real happy update on my formerly sick plants. They are now the picture of health on the new growth, with mostly disappearing symptoms of distress on the older growth. Turns out that using the knowledge from the Organics for Beginners Thread was as important, or rather, more important than the chemistry lesson my friend gave me. Transplanted all plants into all organic soils, made up of varying components, including high-mag lime. Have been watering with Mykos, beneficial bacteria, blackstrap molasses, humic acid and some seaweed extract. This site is the best. Believe I was giving them too much wind as well and have corrected that.
 
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DelTaco

Member
Hey guys I have 3 gorilla glues going and I can't tell if this is a cal-mag issue or a light issue or something else. I've been battling it almost since the beginning.

I'm using a gavita knock off DE 1k lamp turned down to 825 watts and usually I have it about 4ft above the plants. My environment is a sealed room, 74F, 65-70% RH, lots of air movement and 1000 ppm of Co2.

These plants were vegged for 7 weeks and now they are 1 week into of flower. Although I have had the problem for most of the time these plants have been established I just recently got the Co2 dialed in and when I did I seen an immediate improvement. Now though it seems like the plants are reverting back into this problem. The reason I think it might be light intensity related is because the issue shows up mainly on the plant areas directly under the hot spot of the bulb. Other foliage that is further away from the center of the light but on the same plant is nice and dark green and healthy looking. The leaves deeper under the canopy are also dark green.

I run a ppk setup with jack's hydro nutes, right now 800 ppm and ph 6.2. Ive tried AN's Sensi Cal at 4ml per gallon and also 8ml per gallon I can't tell a difference. When I foliar spray instead though I do see a difference. Right now I am spraying every 4 days just to keep the issue in check but it is just slowing it not stopping it and now that I am into flower I want to get away from spraying them with anything.

Anybody got any suggestions? I would be forever grateful if I could make this problem go away.

Pic 1 - Progression of problem.
Pic 2 - The worst hit plant, the other 2 are monsters but do have the issue.
Pic 3 - Overall canopy shot of my 3 plants.

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T

t99

Well-known member
Veteran
Never done a ppk or Jack's, but I would guess lower the ph to 5.8 - 6.1(max) and feed at 1.0 ec (.5 scale) and slowly raise ec over the next few weeks.
800ppm? What ec? 1.6? Pretty high for first week of flower, combined with the 6.2 ph, you're probably locking out.
 
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DelTaco

Member
t99 said:
Never done a ppk or Jack's, but I would guess lower the ph to 5.8 - 6.1(max) and feed at 1.0 ec (.5 scale) and slowly raise ec over the next few weeks.
800ppm? What ec? 1.6? Pretty high for first week of flower, combined with the 6.2 ph, you're probably locking out.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, yes 1.6 EC. When I mix my nutes I ph to 5.6 but if it is slightly less I'll go with it. Once it runs through the media though it raises back up to 6.2. I'm using Turface as my media and that has a ph of 6.1-6.2.
 
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t99

Well-known member
Veteran
Ok, I'm sorry I just skimmed through one of the ppk threads, and I guess ppk's do run at high ppm's, had no idea. Interesting grow style, sorry I can't be more help.
Hope someone with ppk experience chimes in, I'd like to learn more about it
 
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