build a bigger box? is that an option? and get some wider lenses. 90 degrees or so. for now keep the plants as low as you can.
LED light too strong..
- Thread starter S-V-K
- Start date
The topic of LED lighting has got the team at Dutch Passion thinking. Seymour’s original 350 gram from an Automazar was done with 290 watts of power and yet it looked like the result of 600W or possibly even 1000w. I am sure much of this is to do with the fact that the LED’s produce only the light the plant needs with none of the green and yellow ‘less useful’ wavelengths. So 290W of LED light might need say 600w of HPS to produce. I would like to see more from the LED manufacturers on this as they seem to be on the crest of a wave. The only stumbling block will be the price which will deter most customers, even those that have been convinced by thetechnology.
One other important aspect of LED is the fact that the light comes evenly from a panel of 3 feet x 3 feet. Or 1m x 1m for us Europeans. The effect of that is a more even spread of light rather than a single point source as you have with a traditional HPS Bulb. LED is similar in concept to the ‘travelling light’, or HPS on a rail where the light rolls from one side of the room to the other ensuring that all plants get some direct light at some point. The problem with the travelling light technique is that for a lot of the time the bud is getting low light. The idea of spreading that illumination out,a s the LED panel does, results in all the plants is getting a fair share of light all the time And all the light the plant does get is rich in the most useful wavelengths. It is a dream scenario for the plant and perhaps that alters the plants feed requirements. It seems to increase the requirement for calcium and magnesium and I am sure that is key to understanding what it is that LED does differently.
Here is an initial theory on why magnesium deficiencies are seen. Magnesium is used in several ways, it is also needed as part of the chlorophyll molecule itself. Could it be that LED grown plants use extra Magnesium to produce extra chlorophyll to deal with the increased levels of useful light? I don’t know, but it is a fair question to ask.
Calcium is used in different ways by the plants but one way is in cell walls and membranes. It is used in enzymes and transporting of other nutrients. Somehow more of this is going on.
So my thoughts are along several different lines right now.
LED is now more effective ‘watt for watt’ than HPS. The poor public image of LED is down to some early exaggerated claims that never survived public scrutiny. But LED technology has really moved on in the last year or so.
I think the LED market will really takeoff when there is a bit more serious competition. HydrogrowLED look like they could give HPS a serious run for it’s money in coming years but prices will have to drop. I can’t believe that the LED manufacture can be so expensive, a few cents each but surely not too much when LED’s are being produced by the million in the Far East. And assembly of the components is something the Chinese can do with their eyes shut for a fraction of the price we can achieve in the west. So $1,000 or more for a 300 watt LED device seems excessive. Get the price down to $300-$400 and hardened HPS devotees will buy them. In my opinion LED prices are going to have to soften in order to get mass market appeal. At current prices I think 90% of customers will never be able to justify it even though they might love to have one.
But technically they are really moving LEDalong. It makes me wonder where LED light performance might be in a few years time. For those that worry about heat signatures and energy consumption then LED has obvious attractions. The light is all fully usable by the plant and it is delivered from an evenly lit panel rather than a single point. So all the plant surface area can join in the photosynthetic fun.
I have one other point to make about LED. By my reckoning some 40% of available surface area on the panel is not used. I am sure there is a reason for this such as limits in soldering density, or something even sillier reason such as the current factory only make circular units. But I am sure that these problems could be overcome. LED panels could be made brighter by filling some of the ‘dead space’ on the panel with more LED’s. And like I said, I really can’t believe the LED’s themselves can cost that much. We have seen LED’s move from 1 watt to 3 watts in the last couple of years. What happens when they find a way to mass produce a 5W or even a 7W version? And prices will drop like they do for everything else that is mass-producible. I remember being mesmerised by the first electronic calculator I saw, ‘could I ever afford one of my own?’ I wondered. And barely a decade later you were getting them for free when you filled up your car with gas.
I think we need to ask the nutrient manufacturers how they need to reformulate their products to allow for the new feeding requirements of the plants and I will check around the Dutch Passion office to see if we have any contacts and let you know. I am sure I can initiate some cooperation from my mineralised brothers in the nutrient world. I will see if I can get them to register onsite and give us their views.
I think LED will really take off. Right now it is still in the stage of the ‘early adopter’ . It will become a mainstream technology but manufacturers will first face up to a transition from ‘premium market’ to ‘mass market’ and change profit expectations for it to happen.
And Seymour, we would truly love to see you scrog a couple of AutoMazars, let me know if you are serious about that,perhaps after this grow. If you are serious,we will get you some seeds and run a ‘guess the yield’ contest. But I would go for both LED panels (or evenbetter 2x penetrator pro’s !) rather than one. Make it spectacular !
The plant continues to look excellent Seymour, how much is she drinking each day ? I wondered whether there was a hint of nutrient burn at the tips of the leaves on one shot? As you say, she might need another week before the PK14 boost. I am amazed she is at an EC of 1.6 when the Mazar would only take an EC of 1.0 under the same conditions.
You are doing great mate
This post was originally posted by "Dutchpassiontony" on the Autoflower network
Interesting stuff , what does the future hold? Will we see LED targeted plant foods & who will be the first to formulate them.
The seymore reffered to in the start of this post is a guy called "Seymore-buds" he grew 350g with 290W of led, thats over a gram per Watt. Comparable to what you can expect with an hps! He was growing "Auto Mzaar" from Dutch Passion.
Auto's are now starting to achieve more acceptable weights and highs and LED getting better all the time, producing som fine crops. All we need now is for LED to drop in price,I'm guessing in the next few year we will see that happen.
Much love Lamsbread
i have cut and pasted this from a post i made in Strainhunters forums, The orginal post was made by "dutchpassiontony" in the "Autoflower network" forums and i thought it might be useful due to you plant looking like it might have mag defficiency and you using LED.
One other important aspect of LED is the fact that the light comes evenly from a panel of 3 feet x 3 feet. Or 1m x 1m for us Europeans. The effect of that is a more even spread of light rather than a single point source as you have with a traditional HPS Bulb. LED is similar in concept to the ‘travelling light’, or HPS on a rail where the light rolls from one side of the room to the other ensuring that all plants get some direct light at some point. The problem with the travelling light technique is that for a lot of the time the bud is getting low light. The idea of spreading that illumination out,a s the LED panel does, results in all the plants is getting a fair share of light all the time And all the light the plant does get is rich in the most useful wavelengths. It is a dream scenario for the plant and perhaps that alters the plants feed requirements. It seems to increase the requirement for calcium and magnesium and I am sure that is key to understanding what it is that LED does differently.
Here is an initial theory on why magnesium deficiencies are seen. Magnesium is used in several ways, it is also needed as part of the chlorophyll molecule itself. Could it be that LED grown plants use extra Magnesium to produce extra chlorophyll to deal with the increased levels of useful light? I don’t know, but it is a fair question to ask.
Calcium is used in different ways by the plants but one way is in cell walls and membranes. It is used in enzymes and transporting of other nutrients. Somehow more of this is going on.
So my thoughts are along several different lines right now.
LED is now more effective ‘watt for watt’ than HPS. The poor public image of LED is down to some early exaggerated claims that never survived public scrutiny. But LED technology has really moved on in the last year or so.
I think the LED market will really takeoff when there is a bit more serious competition. HydrogrowLED look like they could give HPS a serious run for it’s money in coming years but prices will have to drop. I can’t believe that the LED manufacture can be so expensive, a few cents each but surely not too much when LED’s are being produced by the million in the Far East. And assembly of the components is something the Chinese can do with their eyes shut for a fraction of the price we can achieve in the west. So $1,000 or more for a 300 watt LED device seems excessive. Get the price down to $300-$400 and hardened HPS devotees will buy them. In my opinion LED prices are going to have to soften in order to get mass market appeal. At current prices I think 90% of customers will never be able to justify it even though they might love to have one.
But technically they are really moving LEDalong. It makes me wonder where LED light performance might be in a few years time. For those that worry about heat signatures and energy consumption then LED has obvious attractions. The light is all fully usable by the plant and it is delivered from an evenly lit panel rather than a single point. So all the plant surface area can join in the photosynthetic fun.
I have one other point to make about LED. By my reckoning some 40% of available surface area on the panel is not used. I am sure there is a reason for this such as limits in soldering density, or something even sillier reason such as the current factory only make circular units. But I am sure that these problems could be overcome. LED panels could be made brighter by filling some of the ‘dead space’ on the panel with more LED’s. And like I said, I really can’t believe the LED’s themselves can cost that much. We have seen LED’s move from 1 watt to 3 watts in the last couple of years. What happens when they find a way to mass produce a 5W or even a 7W version? And prices will drop like they do for everything else that is mass-producible. I remember being mesmerised by the first electronic calculator I saw, ‘could I ever afford one of my own?’ I wondered. And barely a decade later you were getting them for free when you filled up your car with gas.
I think we need to ask the nutrient manufacturers how they need to reformulate their products to allow for the new feeding requirements of the plants and I will check around the Dutch Passion office to see if we have any contacts and let you know. I am sure I can initiate some cooperation from my mineralised brothers in the nutrient world. I will see if I can get them to register onsite and give us their views.
I think LED will really take off. Right now it is still in the stage of the ‘early adopter’ . It will become a mainstream technology but manufacturers will first face up to a transition from ‘premium market’ to ‘mass market’ and change profit expectations for it to happen.
And Seymour, we would truly love to see you scrog a couple of AutoMazars, let me know if you are serious about that,perhaps after this grow. If you are serious,we will get you some seeds and run a ‘guess the yield’ contest. But I would go for both LED panels (or evenbetter 2x penetrator pro’s !) rather than one. Make it spectacular !
The plant continues to look excellent Seymour, how much is she drinking each day ? I wondered whether there was a hint of nutrient burn at the tips of the leaves on one shot? As you say, she might need another week before the PK14 boost. I am amazed she is at an EC of 1.6 when the Mazar would only take an EC of 1.0 under the same conditions.
You are doing great mate
This post was originally posted by "Dutchpassiontony" on the Autoflower network
Interesting stuff , what does the future hold? Will we see LED targeted plant foods & who will be the first to formulate them.
The seymore reffered to in the start of this post is a guy called "Seymore-buds" he grew 350g with 290W of led, thats over a gram per Watt. Comparable to what you can expect with an hps! He was growing "Auto Mzaar" from Dutch Passion.
Auto's are now starting to achieve more acceptable weights and highs and LED getting better all the time, producing som fine crops. All we need now is for LED to drop in price,I'm guessing in the next few year we will see that happen.
Much love Lamsbread
i have cut and pasted this from a post i made in Strainhunters forums, The orginal post was made by "dutchpassiontony" in the "Autoflower network" forums and i thought it might be useful due to you plant looking like it might have mag defficiency and you using LED.
Just an update.
I have now covered like 2/3 of LEDs and there is a slight improvement in terms of leave growth :-(
Plant is roughly still same size-looking healthy and all values like PH/temps are spot on.
I'm starting to be suspicious that there is nothing wrong with LED light itself.
I will try to explain why.
In this same cab I was growing Super lemon haze under 165watts of pll lights with yield roughly 100g of dried goodness. This strain was easy to clone and easy to grow.
Now I have changed strain to Violator Kush(photoperiod)=this strain is night mare to make clones-from 7 clones I have 1 which do not want grow under that LED light. I have 3 more cutting in bubble cloner for 3 weeks with no sign of roots.
Donor plant is doing well under 250W dual spec + 100W of LEDs so I do not know what the hell is going on here.
I have went from 100% clone success to 10% success.
What do you think I should do ???
Should I just dump this strain and try another one ?
Is 100W of LEDs stronger than 165W of pll light ?
Many thanks for help
I have now covered like 2/3 of LEDs and there is a slight improvement in terms of leave growth :-(
Plant is roughly still same size-looking healthy and all values like PH/temps are spot on.
I'm starting to be suspicious that there is nothing wrong with LED light itself.
I will try to explain why.
In this same cab I was growing Super lemon haze under 165watts of pll lights with yield roughly 100g of dried goodness. This strain was easy to clone and easy to grow.
Now I have changed strain to Violator Kush(photoperiod)=this strain is night mare to make clones-from 7 clones I have 1 which do not want grow under that LED light. I have 3 more cutting in bubble cloner for 3 weeks with no sign of roots.
Donor plant is doing well under 250W dual spec + 100W of LEDs so I do not know what the hell is going on here.
I have went from 100% clone success to 10% success.
What do you think I should do ???
Should I just dump this strain and try another one ?
Is 100W of LEDs stronger than 165W of pll light ?
Many thanks for help
I grew a sativa clone for years and years. I played with the lights every single grow until the plant quit getting better.
Then I got an indica dominate clone. I put a them into the dialed in clone/veg area with the sativa. They almost died before I could get the light changed back to 'general purpose'.
My clone rate came in at <60% compared to the sativa's +90.
I got the indica grower that supplied the plants to come over and do a cloning session with me. Totally different technique for the indica, now I am at +90% survival with them also.
Bud requirements differ in a similar fashion.
Different strains sometimes are more than a little different, sometimes they are way different.
On another note, the narrower the beam the further it has to go to mix well at the same spacing. I have 60 degree lenses and it is 13" before I can no longer discern individual colors. I run them at 20" for other reasons so not a factor with me.
Then I got an indica dominate clone. I put a them into the dialed in clone/veg area with the sativa. They almost died before I could get the light changed back to 'general purpose'.
My clone rate came in at <60% compared to the sativa's +90.
I got the indica grower that supplied the plants to come over and do a cloning session with me. Totally different technique for the indica, now I am at +90% survival with them also.
Bud requirements differ in a similar fashion.
Different strains sometimes are more than a little different, sometimes they are way different.
On another note, the narrower the beam the further it has to go to mix well at the same spacing. I have 60 degree lenses and it is 13" before I can no longer discern individual colors. I run them at 20" for other reasons so not a factor with me.
As Phaeton says, sativa dominant strains tend to like strong (equatorial) light whereas the mountain indicas (e.g. Kush) don't respond as well to strong light, especially as cuttings.
I manage to get 10 clones under a 20W compact fluorescent spotlight (6500K) about 6 - 8 inches away. I root into soil/perlite 50/50 mix. They generally root after 7 - 14 days. If you are looking for an alternative this is a cheap way to go that works for me.
Only four in there but space for 10:
The cable there is the sensor for a vivarium thermostat - which keeps the propagator at 23C/73F - stable temps really helps
You could set the LED further away but seems like a waste of energy when 20W should be adequate for your needs.
I manage to get 10 clones under a 20W compact fluorescent spotlight (6500K) about 6 - 8 inches away. I root into soil/perlite 50/50 mix. They generally root after 7 - 14 days. If you are looking for an alternative this is a cheap way to go that works for me.
Only four in there but space for 10:
The cable there is the sensor for a vivarium thermostat - which keeps the propagator at 23C/73F - stable temps really helps
You could set the LED further away but seems like a waste of energy when 20W should be adequate for your needs.
As Phaeton says, sativa dominant strains tend to like strong (equatorial) light whereas the mountain indicas (e.g. Kush) don't respond as well to strong light, especially as cuttings.
I manage to get 10 clones under a 20W compact fluorescent spotlight (6500K) about 6 - 8 inches away. I root into soil/perlite 50/50 mix. They generally root after 7 - 14 days. If you are looking for an alternative this is a cheap way to go that works for me.
Only four in there but space for 10:
The cable there is the sensor for a vivarium thermostat - which keeps the propagator at 23C/73F - stable temps really helps
You could set the LED further away but seems like a waste of energy when 20W should be adequate for your needs.
Many thanks for a valuable info.This is my first attempt with indica strain(yes I was growing for couple of years only sativas) and is clear that this my last attempt with indicas
What's the trick for cloning indicas ?
I'm currently running bubble cloner with ph5.8 and dome(no humidity like on the pics above).
Just a small update- plant has been moved under 70W CFL and that wee biatch grew 15mm in 2 days
looks like I have to turn half of the leds off in order to get something out of her.What's puzzling for me is that mother is in wardrobe 700x350x 1100mm under 250W dual spec. and 120W of LEDs without any issues growing like crazy.
end of rant
I think the trick is to grow sativa.
I cut a medium size sativa at an angle through a node and put 2" (5 cm) into rockwool.
The larger indica gets cut above a node and the last 1/2" of stem roughened up by dragging the razor sideways before putting into 2-1/2" (7 cm) of rockwool.
Works OK in the very low humidity area I live.
The clones on the right are sativa, since this picture was taken, 22 of the 40 clones have been transplanted in excellent shape. The other 18 will be grown, but are not as perfect in size and symmetry.
Even though all are living and growing, the sativa outgrows the indica in both size and robustness of the clone. All but one, 11 of 12, sativa's were perfect, only 11 of 28 indica's were first class, I take a lot more indica cuttings because of this discrepancy.
I cut a medium size sativa at an angle through a node and put 2" (5 cm) into rockwool.
The larger indica gets cut above a node and the last 1/2" of stem roughened up by dragging the razor sideways before putting into 2-1/2" (7 cm) of rockwool.
Works OK in the very low humidity area I live.
The clones on the right are sativa, since this picture was taken, 22 of the 40 clones have been transplanted in excellent shape. The other 18 will be grown, but are not as perfect in size and symmetry.
Even though all are living and growing, the sativa outgrows the indica in both size and robustness of the clone. All but one, 11 of 12, sativa's were perfect, only 11 of 28 indica's were first class, I take a lot more indica cuttings because of this discrepancy.
Attachments
Many thanks for help
I have purchased new dome and heating mat with Root IT thermostat controller.Rockwool cubes are in PH 4.3 water for presoaking(24h). So fingers cross my success will go up because so far I'm sitting at 10%.
Just an update regarding that bloody LED light.
Plant started to grow under 75 CFL like crazy so I have decided to turn 40% LEDs of and transfered her back and guess what? That stinking biatch indica isn't growing WRRRRRRRRRRR
For past 2 days not a millimeter of new growth
I'm going to remowe light out and connect all blue and some red to a new drivers I have receivecd yesterday.
Should I go 2:1 red:blue ratio for veging ?
The size difference is still amazing between indica and sativa. Even though all clones survived I included a picture of the runts. The slow plants will eventually grow, but in the past I have spent over two months waiting for good roots and another two months of slow vegging after that. Now I take extra and toss the runts, this saves time.
All these were cut the same day, the transplanted clones are the keepers. The two sixpacks are indica and sativa, the pick of the litter.
All these were cut the same day, the transplanted clones are the keepers. The two sixpacks are indica and sativa, the pick of the litter.
Attachments
Mate no good :-(
From a 4 clones I have 2 clones left :-(
stems in rock wool cubes just rotted away in 6 days :-(
Frustration is kicking in :-(
clone from Violator kush
104W led = dead plant not growing at all so moved her to ->
75cfl = 25mm of growth in 48 hours so decided to move her back under LED ->
60W led(most red and deep red with couple blue)= biatch is dead again so decided to ->
30W led(most of them are blue with just 8W of red) = facking dirty biatch is dead again.
What should I do ?
What am I doing so badly wrong ?
clone from Violator kush
104W led = dead plant not growing at all so moved her to ->
75cfl = 25mm of growth in 48 hours so decided to move her back under LED ->
60W led(most red and deep red with couple blue)= biatch is dead again so decided to ->
30W led(most of them are blue with just 8W of red) = facking dirty biatch is dead again.
What should I do ?
What am I doing so badly wrong ?
hmm...
hmm...
Jus to be clear, is this plant growin on top of the shiny material pictured in the first post? if so, I'd remove the shiny material. They do not like bright light on the bottom of the leaves. The stronger the light the more it will reflect and the quicker yul see the ill results of it. I see its the bottom leaves being affected with no yellowing that would come with a mag def, so I think it may be yer problem. Good luck! BC
hmm...
Jus to be clear, is this plant growin on top of the shiny material pictured in the first post? if so, I'd remove the shiny material. They do not like bright light on the bottom of the leaves. The stronger the light the more it will reflect and the quicker yul see the ill results of it. I see its the bottom leaves being affected with no yellowing that would come with a mag def, so I think it may be yer problem. Good luck! BC
Many thanks mate
That tank is used only until seedling develop roots a bit. She is at the moment sitting in bigger tank with black top.
Ph-5.8
Water temp- 20C
PPM 856
Air temp - 23C
Light 30W 22blue and 8 red.
Roots are white as snow - leaves are dark green with all stems red(added Iron,magnesium today)
Honestly I don't know what's wrong with that LED light or plant.
... 100w of LEDs in 0.81 sq ft of space?
Jesus Christ man. You're a friggin' maniac!
You might want to read What I Told Hazydreams about a year and a half ago regarding oversaturation and photoinhibition. That was on a HPS grow, but what I said still applies rather well to yours, also.
----
If you've got even moderately good LEDs and bins in that Chinese wonder o' yours, you need no more than 40w per square foot.
With high-end Osram and CREE, that number is closer to ~20-25 w/s.f., at nominal distances.
-SX
I'm sorry for wrong dimensions.
Cabinet is Width 540mm x Depth 300mm x Hight 750mm
That should be 1.7346 sg ft so 100W of LEDs should be fine.
Same cab had 165W of fluorescent light in without issues ( I have found article which claims that 150W fluoro = 30W HID)
I can't find info regarding LED vs Fluoro or LED vs HID in terms of intensity.
Would anyone have any info ?
As I'm looking at my light and ratios used.
6% = 440 x 6 Leds
12% = 460 x 12 Leds
2% = 520 x 2 Leds
30% = 620 x 34 Leds
50% = 660 x 50 Leds
It looks like this ratio isn't good at all.
Does anyone have any information on ratios I should use ?
Found some article stating(some Russian scientists were doing tests with tomato's):
75% red
15% green
10% blue
So I'm planning to split it as follows:
37.5% 660nm
37.5% 620nm
5% 460nm
5% 440nm
15% = 3000k, 6000k, IR and UV roughly 4 of each
What do you think ?
Would it work for veging as well ?
Many thanks for all help
I know that in the past, Knna recommended a minimum of 30 watts per square foot for leds, as well as a 50/50 split between the 630nm & 660nm reds. I've repeatedly seen 8-10% for blue, so it sounds like you might be on the right track. With my Lumigrow, I have run right at 53 watts/sq.ft. with good results. Good luck!
If your leaves are turning white you are bleaching them. If you are still using 15 and 30 degree lenses that is your problem. For small seedlings and clones I also keep RH over 50% at all times. Otherwise leaves will dry up since most watertranspires through the leaves during cloning.
Get back to basics. Remove lenses and get the light to 6" above the plants. At 350mA they won't burn.
I use Crees n Osram 660s with no lenses at 4-6" from the tops of the plants. Works great. 15-30 degree beams are far too concentrated so you need to move the light away from the tops. When you move it farther away, that brings up the problem of uneven coverage and stretchy plants. LED is all about a balance. When my plants have buds forming, they can handle the light at 2" away. They only bleach is the leaves get within 1" of the LEDs.
If you struggle with them, just get a couple 20" floros for the clones. One warm and one cool.
Get back to basics. Remove lenses and get the light to 6" above the plants. At 350mA they won't burn.
I use Crees n Osram 660s with no lenses at 4-6" from the tops of the plants. Works great. 15-30 degree beams are far too concentrated so you need to move the light away from the tops. When you move it farther away, that brings up the problem of uneven coverage and stretchy plants. LED is all about a balance. When my plants have buds forming, they can handle the light at 2" away. They only bleach is the leaves get within 1" of the LEDs.
If you struggle with them, just get a couple 20" floros for the clones. One warm and one cool.
The HGL's I am using have that russian tomato profile, 75 15 10 and it really kicks on the indica. My sativa wants more blue, a lot more blue.
I use supplements to push the blue up to 20%, green is also supplemented to 20%, putting the red down to 60%. This did not slow down the indica in the least and the sativa quit stretching so much and got sticky sooner.
For what it is worth I also add green supplement to my CMH veg lights. Green helps when the intensity is around 100 watts/foot2, less total light and the green does not matter anymore. The explanation is tedious.
I recently acquired a Papaya, this is going to replace my sativa, giving me two fairly pure indica strains, Northern Lights is the other. Lighting will instantly become much simpler, and the Northern Lights responds to UVB more readily, hopefully this is an indica trait.
I run 50 watts/foot2 of LED and keep the plants back 16" to 24" with 28 watt 60 degree beams. I also have 60 watts/foot2 of fluorescent surround, kept back 8" to 16".
72 fluorescent tubes, 80 LED modules, and 1 HID. All this to keep the highest possible energy on the plant without any one spot getting more than any other, no bleaching and 100 watts per square foot growth rate. Diffuse light grows best.
I use supplements to push the blue up to 20%, green is also supplemented to 20%, putting the red down to 60%. This did not slow down the indica in the least and the sativa quit stretching so much and got sticky sooner.
For what it is worth I also add green supplement to my CMH veg lights. Green helps when the intensity is around 100 watts/foot2, less total light and the green does not matter anymore. The explanation is tedious.
I recently acquired a Papaya, this is going to replace my sativa, giving me two fairly pure indica strains, Northern Lights is the other. Lighting will instantly become much simpler, and the Northern Lights responds to UVB more readily, hopefully this is an indica trait.
I run 50 watts/foot2 of LED and keep the plants back 16" to 24" with 28 watt 60 degree beams. I also have 60 watts/foot2 of fluorescent surround, kept back 8" to 16".
72 fluorescent tubes, 80 LED modules, and 1 HID. All this to keep the highest possible energy on the plant without any one spot getting more than any other, no bleaching and 100 watts per square foot growth rate. Diffuse light grows best.
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Last edited:
Many thanks for help.
I have ordered new LEDs (this time not Chinese) so I can rebuild the light.
Might I ask you a question about your Lumigrow light?
I really like an idea of dimming - would this dimmer be suitable ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Controlle...ighting_SM&hash=item4aaa23cb2b#ht_2108wt_1185
Many thanks and happy growing
