LED FAQ) Building and DIY

[Dion]

The main reason is that i have a amozon gift card from Christmas and can use it to buy the chips. They will be used on a 2x2 modular scrog

http://www.amazon.com/illumitex-Ger...=1433687047&sr=1-8-catcorr&keywords=illumitex


5 per sq ft= awesome
so u could use the other 5 to veg or just go for overkill-why not? lol

http://www.amazon.com/LIGHTS-SPECTR...=1433687047&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=illumitex

this is also very well priced but prob too big for your space( unless u can make it a bit longer? 3x2)

 

[Dion]

Yes i was reffering to the illumitex chips.

I see why you are all over those chips. I watched a review video. As they raised the fixtures (neosol ds) there was very little drop in the par. To me, thats very impressive.

Realstyles uses a white coloured cob right? Theoretically it would make sense to use those cobs with the illumitex chips for a broader spectrum right?

Its very helpfel to know it is possible to put those lights on the same board. Ill have to consult you more on this.

yes realstyles uses a white cob as do i- he uses a larger/newer/$$$$ version than i do
this thread is more about cobs because thats what the kids like now days lol

yeah the surexi chips are mad good-they just cost a lot BUT by the time you add the cost of drivers to drive the cobs(high volt high current) and chip holders/ optics/reflectors they r pretty close as the surexi have all that built in( i mean not drivers built in lol but the lower current/voltage drivers r cheaper because they r more avialable)

EDIT: ofcourse if u use the chips RS USES( 3590) then obviously you are not concerned with expense so the surexis will be great

id use f3 surexis with some 2540s or 2530s mixed in for visualisation and to complete the spectrum

 

[J-Icky]

Ok so I have my light pretty much figured out, i think, just want to run this by someone that actually knows to be sure before I start ordering. I also have a couple more questions.

Ok I'll start with my light. My space is gonna be smaller than I planned but I will only be growing 1-2 plants anyway. I will be using 4 Vero 18 chips, and I will be using the meanwell HLG-120H-C1050A to power all 4 cobs, this is all good right?. SO one of my questions is what combo should I use considering I will be running autoflowers from seed to harvest under this one light. Which would be better, 2 3000k and 2 4000k, 2 3000k 1 4000k n 1 5000k, 2 3000k and 2 5000k or 1 2700k 1 3000k 1 4000k and 1 5000k? I want a mixed spectrum but I want it to be more than just serviceable for flowering.

But my main question is these veros can use the pico-ezmate connectors which I will probably use. When wiring them together I will bring the "hot" wire out of the driver and connect it to the red in the first cob, then take the black from the first and connect that with the red form the second, the black from the second to the red of the third, the black of the third to the red of the fourth and the black of the fourth will connect to the driver. Is this right?

 

[Boyd Crowder]

sounds legit

 

[Dion]

Ok I'll start with my light. My space is gonna be smaller than I planned but I will only be growing 1-2 plants anyway. I will be using 4 Vero 18 chips, and I will be using the meanwell HLG-120H-C1050A to power all 4 cobs, this is all good right?.

yes- you should estimate 30v per cob and so that driver can actually fit 4 perfectly(possibly 5)- you still might consider the hlg-185h though as it can fit up to 6 (but 4 will be fine)-so you could also use it if you wanna ad more cobs in an upgrade(justa thought-your driver choice is good)

SO one of my questions is what combo should I use considering I will be running autoflowers from seed to harvest under this one light. Which would be better, 2 3000k and 2 4000k, 2 3000k 1 4000k n 1 5000k, 2 3000k and 2 5000k or 1 2700k 1 3000k 1 4000k and 1 5000k? I want a mixed spectrum but I want it to be more than just serviceable for flowering.

dunno i dont have alot of info on the vero you shoudl google stardust sailor he has data on this but id guess and say 4x(whatever has the best avialable binning between3000k and 4000k) just go for highest luminous flux that you can get( r u using the V2?) looks like digikey has the 3500k so get that

But my main question is these veros can use the pico-ezmate connectors which I will probably use. When wiring them together I will bring the "hot" wire out of the driver and connect it to the red in the first cob, then take the black from the first and connect that with the red form the second, the black from the second to the red of the third, the black of the third to the red of the fourth and the black of the fourth will connect to the driver. Is this right?

should be right
looks like red is - and black is + so yeah what you said is right

what about your heatsinsk and stuff?

 

[J-Icky]

what about your heatsinsk and stuff?

I was thinking these, http://www.ebay.com/itm/231066755062?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT , as I saw somewhere else that someone had used them for the Vero 18s but he only ran them at 700ma.

Oh and about the driver, So i take it I can use this one, https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HLG-185H-C1050A.shtml , and not have problems running just the 4 pulling a little over 120w?

 

[Dion]

I was thinking these, http://www.ebay.com/itm/231066755062?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT , as I saw somewhere else that someone had used them for the Vero 18s but he only ran them at 700ma.

i would prob just stick with a arctic alpine 11 plus
at 700ma thats aprox 21w
you wil be running just over 30

its prob fine but over kill on the heatsink aint a bad thing at all
id prob go for

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...6070R&cm_re=alpine_11-_-35-186-070R-_-Product

Oh and about the driver, So i take it I can use this one, https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/HLG-185H-C1050A.shtml , and not have problems running just the 4 pulling a little over 120w?

yeah thats what im saying- the smaller one will fit perfectly but this one will also fit and leave room to add 2 more 18s if u want later

 

[Grassachusetts7]

Hey Dion, what were you using for your red sands blues again? Actually just your reds if you don't mind. I'm running the Cree 3000k and I would like to get a few deeper colors in flower next run. Was it surexi?

 

[Dion]

ive used surexi f3s but i dont think u really need it

if you want some deeper reds look into the 93CRI version(agian i dont think you will need it)

you can also get 624nm, 660nm and even 730nm surexi chips

http://www.illumitex.com/illumitex-leds/surexi-horticulture-leds/

if you just want reds id prob get some 660nm

but seems only the f3s available from my sources if u find the reds let us know

 

[Grassachusetts7]

Cool beans! Thanks for the help
If it's not needed I'll save the money. I can't stand the colored lights anyway.
I just noticed some on Buenos Gigantica, I think it was Bueno?

 

[Dion]

Cool beans! Thanks for the help
If it's not needed I'll save the money. I can't stand the colored lights anyway.
I just noticed some on Buenos Gigantica, I think it was Bueno?

yeah check with him but i think he is using xml 2s or rebels or smth

 

[John LOQUE]

OK Dion, i want to buy these : http://www.rak-tech.net/pieces-detachees/46-dissipateur-1-metre.html

And put 4 cob's and 4 drivers ( and 2 fans ) on one meter. It would do 200 w per heat sink. I was thinking about sticking the drivers in the clivage, what do you think ?

 

[Dion]

OK Dion, i want to buy these : http://www.rak-tech.net/pieces-detachees/46-dissipateur-1-metre.html

And put 4 cob's and 4 drivers ( and 2 fans ) on one meter. It would do 200 w per heat sink. I was thinking about sticking the drivers in the clivage, what do you think ?

seems ok

résistance thermique de 1,5°/W pour 10 cm de longueur
so 4 cobs= 25cm per cob = 37.5c above ambiant(passive)?

they say 1cm per watt- i dunno if i trust this- the cobs produce a lot of heat in a small area- you can probably put more cobs on this sink with a fan above each cob
EDIT: oh its per 10cm lol so thats 10w passive on the whole thing- if i understood=shit
but i guess so- i am a little worried about the space in the middle without fins though- assumuing thats where u will mount your cobs? or will you mount them under the fins?

any about putting the drivers in the clivage- i wouldnt do that just because the drivers have a sink in them and you want all the sink for the greedy chips- the heat can dissapate better with air flow so i would mount them on top of the fins or better put them elsewhere like on the wall

i think you shoudl look at arctic coolers and use L profiles to make a frame

basically i need to calculate the surface area to figure out if this will work

things i like for this sink are the 4mm base and the short fins(good for passive)

but i dont like the clivage its not serrated or the numbers they give- just desnt seem right

ill do some looking in a sec got a poker game going on

 

[John LOQUE]

yes i 'll put the cob under the fins. And i'll put 2 fans blowing on the fins.
Ok for the drivers, i'll put them anywhere else ...

i found cob holders on digikey, but they are designed for CXA25XX and i'll get the CXA30XX (or CXB30XX), they are a little larger. Do they fit ? Sorry for these questions but i don't want to mess things...

 

[luvdemshrooms]

No, the 2500 series holders will not fit the 3000 series LED's.

Newark Electronics has the correct holders. The holders for the 3000 series are Ideal #50-2234C

Here's a link to the Ideal data sheet for the various COB's.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1814195.pdf

Note that Ideal doesn't sell direct but Newark stocks many of them.

 

[Grassachusetts7]

Look into Molex Chip holders. I believe they are perfect for Cree cxa

 

[morgandecaptain]

I use Ideal solderless holders for my CXA3070's.


http://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/st...estType=Base&partNumber=90W0065&storeId=10194

 

[J-Icky]

i would prob just stick with a arctic alpine 11 plus
at 700ma thats aprox 21w
you wil be running just over 30

its prob fine but over kill on the heatsink aint a bad thing at all
id prob go for

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...6070R&cm_re=alpine_11-_-35-186-070R-_-Product



yeah thats what im saying- the smaller one will fit perfectly but this one will also fit and leave room to add 2 more 18s if u want later

Sorry I'm a little confused, so would the Intel one I suggested work since its rated for 65w and I'm only gonna push a little over 31w? I know you suggest the arctic alpine 11 but when I was looking at heaksink/fans the best I could do on price was $66 for 4 shipped while the Intel would only be $31 for 4 shipped.

Unfortunately money is an issue on this build so spending twice as much on heatsinks/fans isn't something I can justify, while spending a few more dollars on the better driver is because that will save me money in the future.

Thanks for all the help on this, this thread was an awesome idea and answered questions, specific questions that couldn't be answered in the many other DIY led threads that just tell you how to build a specific light with specific parts and leave you to guess if you want to use a different COB or run multiple cobs on a single driver or the many other things that go into building a light. i hope to eventually be able to help others the way you have helped me as I truly feel COBs are the future of grow lights.

 

[angelgoob]

its a dif tech and needs to be designed differently- those companies making panels are just doing it wrong so that hps growers will feel comfy making the switch
we need to spread out the multiple light sources not pack them all into 1 place if we pack it al in we need to raise the light to get spread and loose photons doing this

This. What one needs in multiple bright clusters of LED's set of each top of each plant.

 

[Grassachusetts7]