So you can revitalize the room automatically....Now if the rooms can just do the rest by them selves....feed, defoliate and harvest....that's something to market.
that would be sweet
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" Land Of A Thousand Colas !!! Multi room PPK 26K "
- Thread starter gmanwho
- Start date
that would be sweet
So folks, 2 years an im up to 26k in lighting. not including the 560w of plasmas or 2k of t5's. time for the thread title change.
Few more rez top-off parts, few more hours of sealing, humidification, night time exhaust an the last room will be set.
I think im gonna stop building for a little bit, well i like to say that for now. I do have ALOT more room.
))))
One thing is certain...... i am eager to try some CMH setups.
Happy fourth of july everyone......b well an bsafe!!!
Few more rez top-off parts, few more hours of sealing, humidification, night time exhaust an the last room will be set.
I think im gonna stop building for a little bit, well i like to say that for now. I do have ALOT more room.
))))One thing is certain...... i am eager to try some CMH setups.
Happy fourth of july everyone......b well an bsafe!!!
So folks, 2 years an im up to 26k in lighting. not including the 560w of plasmas or 2k of t5's. time for the thread title change.
Few more rez top-off parts, few more hours of sealing, humidification, night time exhaust an the last room will be set.
I think im gonna stop building for a little bit, well i like to say that for now. I do have ALOT more room.
One thing is certain...... i am eager to try some CMH setups.
Happy fourth of july everyone......b well an bsafe!!!
thanks buddy! everytime i get another veteran grower to try this it's a big deal! without everyone's support and input we would not be this far along on this group project.
also, my wife and i thank everyone involved for the huge difference this has made in the quality of our lives.
mckush .. thanks man, im sure that sorting through the thread there might be some info someone would benefit from.
delta..... right on man. we all need to learn from each other. i have converted my last ebb&flood bucket systems to ppk. so far its been a very forgiving system. few hiccups but things seemed to have smoothed out. it wasnt a hard choice once i seen the trial room produce.
bsafe
delta..... right on man. we all need to learn from each other. i have converted my last ebb&flood bucket systems to ppk. so far its been a very forgiving system. few hiccups but things seemed to have smoothed out. it wasnt a hard choice once i seen the trial room produce.
bsafe
something i meant to post a few months back
something i meant to post a few months back
something i meant to post a few months back.
been using 3/8ths- 1/2" bands/pieces of " 3 inch pvc repair coupling " as the top tailpiece " holder "
in search of the snap in drain cap, and after clearing out the 2 local big box stores of all the 3" snap in drains, i was forced to build on an i came up with this.
2 rooms so far have been working well. no known issues at this point. the only down side is when the bucket is empty, the tailpiece will move up an down an can get annoying trying to stack them empty.
i removed prob some of the capillary action as well im sure since i added a few small drain ports. but, so far the 2 rooms that have this style have far less overflow issues then the other rooms with the flush style snap in drain. An by overflow issues i mean if the timer/pump stays to long on for current root mass and or oversized pump.
so the flood portion has changed as well an i would say they dont flood as quickly. and or i dont get prob the same air exchange since the bottom of the bucket is not as sealed. but it drains better.
so i used the snap in drain on the lower part of the tail piece. the upper " Band " holds it in the bucket very nice.
i placed the " repair coupling " on a piece of 3" pvc an drilled a self tapping screw or 2 in to hold the coupling in place so i could cut the " bands" with ease. this way im able to keep all my fingers that i have worked so hard to maintain to this point in my life. at first i was getting 5 bands per $2.50 coupling, after first coupling i moved it up to 6 bands.
i then put a couple 1/4in holes in. part of the hole flows through the band. so when the band comes in contact with the bucket it provides a final drain so the band does not keep any standing water.
there is enough space that the tailpiece slides in an out of the bucket. so that provides a drain area as well.
only took a few extra minutes to cut an assemble. i prob saved $50 bucks in snap in drains, then another 20 mins to remove the damn stickers over the snap in grate
bsafe
something i meant to post a few months back
something i meant to post a few months back.
been using 3/8ths- 1/2" bands/pieces of " 3 inch pvc repair coupling " as the top tailpiece " holder "
in search of the snap in drain cap, and after clearing out the 2 local big box stores of all the 3" snap in drains, i was forced to build on an i came up with this.
2 rooms so far have been working well. no known issues at this point. the only down side is when the bucket is empty, the tailpiece will move up an down an can get annoying trying to stack them empty.
i removed prob some of the capillary action as well im sure since i added a few small drain ports. but, so far the 2 rooms that have this style have far less overflow issues then the other rooms with the flush style snap in drain. An by overflow issues i mean if the timer/pump stays to long on for current root mass and or oversized pump.
so the flood portion has changed as well an i would say they dont flood as quickly. and or i dont get prob the same air exchange since the bottom of the bucket is not as sealed. but it drains better.
so i used the snap in drain on the lower part of the tail piece. the upper " Band " holds it in the bucket very nice.
i placed the " repair coupling " on a piece of 3" pvc an drilled a self tapping screw or 2 in to hold the coupling in place so i could cut the " bands" with ease. this way im able to keep all my fingers that i have worked so hard to maintain to this point in my life. at first i was getting 5 bands per $2.50 coupling, after first coupling i moved it up to 6 bands.
i then put a couple 1/4in holes in. part of the hole flows through the band. so when the band comes in contact with the bucket it provides a final drain so the band does not keep any standing water.
there is enough space that the tailpiece slides in an out of the bucket. so that provides a drain area as well.
only took a few extra minutes to cut an assemble. i prob saved $50 bucks in snap in drains, then another 20 mins to remove the damn stickers over the snap in grate
bsafe
DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
Stoner ingenuity at it`s finest.....Usedta use gray pvc male couplings with O rings for my bulkhead fittings in my ebb and flow bucket setups to save cash and time.....now....
What medium are you runnin G.....and I`m sure you`ve filled and started the containers , but for future to guarantee full drainage where the air roots live , I`d drill more of those 1/4" holes to insure against blockage and roots sittin in water 24/7....anyways....
Maybe it`s not an issue and you`re golden with good drainage and no floodin as rootmass bulks up till end of stretch , but as you stated more rootmass , less juice needed , but the timer don`t know when to stop the juice until it hits the pre-determined setting....
All about dialage....Every run gets better if you see where to improve each limiting factor from the run before....Can`t wait ta see you blowin it up with the PPK .....Good luck and....
Peace.....DHF....
.....
What medium are you runnin G.....and I`m sure you`ve filled and started the containers , but for future to guarantee full drainage where the air roots live , I`d drill more of those 1/4" holes to insure against blockage and roots sittin in water 24/7....anyways....
Maybe it`s not an issue and you`re golden with good drainage and no floodin as rootmass bulks up till end of stretch , but as you stated more rootmass , less juice needed , but the timer don`t know when to stop the juice until it hits the pre-determined setting....
All about dialage....Every run gets better if you see where to improve each limiting factor from the run before....Can`t wait ta see you blowin it up with the PPK .....Good luck and....
Peace.....DHF....
.....
\Stoner ingenuity at it`s finest.....Usedta use gray pvc male couplings with O rings for my bulkhead fittings in my ebb and flow bucket setups to save cash and time.....now....
What medium are you runnin G.....and I`m sure you`ve filled and started the containers , but for future to guarantee full drainage where the air roots live , I`d drill more of those 1/4" holes to insure against blockage and roots sittin in water 24/7....anyways....
Maybe it`s not an issue and you`re golden with good drainage and no floodin as rootmass bulks up till end of stretch , but as you stated more rootmass , less juice needed , but the timer don`t know when to stop the juice until it hits the pre-determined setting....
All about dialage....Every run gets better if you see where to improve each limiting factor from the run before....Can`t wait ta see you blowin it up with the PPK .....Good luck and....
Peace.....DHF....
hey dhf, i've been using turface. i've had one room with the " bands " come down already with excellent results. i do not see any issues. it's just like any top drip system i've done. works well.
so i am also running another small test with the top drip. each room is currently set to 60 seconds flood, then the off time inbetween cycles is different on one room . one room is 2 hrs off, then the other rooms set to 3hrs off. whenever i messed with top drip, as long as you keep the stem higher an dry then the medium, the more floods the quicker the growth. now if that stem stays to wet you rot out. wide drip rings an raised transplants. almost a classic water farm
the first room i tried the bands on came down with pretty impressive results. still tweaking and since i have been doing nutrient mixxed topp offs,unlike my last runs, my calcium def has disappeared. i was mixing the jacks hydro an cal-nit reversed.
bsafe
So with messing around with jacks professional hydroponic and jacks cal-nit 2part feeding program i ran across this from the Jr Peters website. In depth walk through on mixxing an nutrient profiles. using this as a base an go from there. testing the epsom on one room. the break down is 14grams of epsom per 50 gal of solution.
http://www.jrpeters.com/who-are-you/hydroponics/tips-from-jack.html
then heres a cut an paste if you wish to not follow the above link.
General Hydroponic growing with 2 part
Jack’s Professional Hydroponic Formula has been designed to serve as a base foundation for hydroponic growing. It can be manipulated in such a manner as to provide virtually any combination of nutrient levels desired, providing the highest availability to plants, due primarily to Jack’s proven ability to remain in true solution over long periods of time.
Jack’s Professional 5-12-26 Hydroponic
Follow these steps to obtain a precipitate free solution
Dissolve 130 ounces of 5-12-26 Hydroponic in 1000 gallons of final feed solution. You will obtain the following elemental PPM concentrations:
Element N P K Mg SO4 Fe Mn Zn Cu B Mo
PPM 50 52 215 63 246 3 .50 .15 .15 .50 .10
For the most effective use of the Hydroponic formula, it is essential that the nutrient content of the irrigation water being used is known. These figures are then taken into consideration and should be added to the distilled water figures as quotes above. This is of special importance when figuring the need for adding more Magnesium (Mg) and Calcium (ca) depending on the needs of the crops being grown.
Dissolve any additional Epsom salts desired into the above 1000-gallon solution before proceeding. For most crops, 50 PPM Magnesium is an adequate level in solution. To increase your Magnesium levels, dissolve 10 ounces of Epsom salts in 1000-gallons of final feed solution to obtain 7.5 PPM additional Magnesium and 3.00 ppm Sulfur (SO4).
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT ANY EPSOM SALTS TO BE ADDED MUST BE ADDED TO THE HYDROPONIC SOLUTION AND BE DISSOLVED BEFORE THE ADDITION OF CALCIUM NITRATE.
NOTE: Jack’s Hydroponic fertilizer contains NO calcium.
After dissolving Jack’s Hydroponic and any Epsom salts in the tank, proceed as follows:
Dissolve 86 ounces of Calcium Nitrate into the above 1000-gallon solution to obtain a total nutrient concentration of 150 PPM Nitrogen and 116 PPM Calcium.
Should higher Nitrogen and Potassium levels be desired, the addition of 1-ounce Potassium Nitrate per 1000 gallons will add the following concentrations:
Nitrogen—1.00 ppm N Potassium 2.74 ppm K
Should higher Calcium levels be desired, the addition of 1 ounce Calcium Chloride per 1000-gallons would add the following concentrations:
Calcium as Ca—2.09 ppm Ca
Should higher Potash levels be desired, the addition of 1 ounce Potassium Sulfate per 1000-gallons would add the following concentrations:
Potassium as K—3.11 ppm K
Should higher Manganese levels be desired, the addition of 1-ounce Manganese sulfate per 1000 gallons would add the following concentrations:
Manganese as Mn—1.87 ppm Mn
Should higher Iron levels be desired, the addition of 1 ounce of the following per 1000 gallons will add the following concentrations:
13% Chelated Iron as Fe EDTA — 0.975 ppm Fe
11% Chelated Iron as Fe DTPA — 0.80 ppm Fe
6% Chelated Iron as Fe EDDHA — 0.45 ppm Fe
Jack’s Hydroponic Formula is heavily buffered to produce an idea working solution pH of between 6.00 and 6.50, but under unusual circumstances, it may be necessary to adjust the solution pH up or down with the use of mineral or organic acid complexes. Please consult water quality when choosing amount for pH change.
For over 65 years, the Peters’ family has designed and produced "The Finest in Soluble Fertilizers"
Our laboratory has been providing outstanding analytical services to the horticulture industry for over 55 years. Professional growers, horticultural products manufacturers, and university researchers throughout the world trust us to supply accurate and timely services.
http://www.jrpeters.com/who-are-you/hydroponics/tips-from-jack.html
then heres a cut an paste if you wish to not follow the above link.
General Hydroponic growing with 2 part
Jack’s Professional Hydroponic Formula has been designed to serve as a base foundation for hydroponic growing. It can be manipulated in such a manner as to provide virtually any combination of nutrient levels desired, providing the highest availability to plants, due primarily to Jack’s proven ability to remain in true solution over long periods of time.
Jack’s Professional 5-12-26 Hydroponic
Follow these steps to obtain a precipitate free solution
Dissolve 130 ounces of 5-12-26 Hydroponic in 1000 gallons of final feed solution. You will obtain the following elemental PPM concentrations:
Element N P K Mg SO4 Fe Mn Zn Cu B Mo
PPM 50 52 215 63 246 3 .50 .15 .15 .50 .10
For the most effective use of the Hydroponic formula, it is essential that the nutrient content of the irrigation water being used is known. These figures are then taken into consideration and should be added to the distilled water figures as quotes above. This is of special importance when figuring the need for adding more Magnesium (Mg) and Calcium (ca) depending on the needs of the crops being grown.
Dissolve any additional Epsom salts desired into the above 1000-gallon solution before proceeding. For most crops, 50 PPM Magnesium is an adequate level in solution. To increase your Magnesium levels, dissolve 10 ounces of Epsom salts in 1000-gallons of final feed solution to obtain 7.5 PPM additional Magnesium and 3.00 ppm Sulfur (SO4).
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT ANY EPSOM SALTS TO BE ADDED MUST BE ADDED TO THE HYDROPONIC SOLUTION AND BE DISSOLVED BEFORE THE ADDITION OF CALCIUM NITRATE.
NOTE: Jack’s Hydroponic fertilizer contains NO calcium.
After dissolving Jack’s Hydroponic and any Epsom salts in the tank, proceed as follows:
Dissolve 86 ounces of Calcium Nitrate into the above 1000-gallon solution to obtain a total nutrient concentration of 150 PPM Nitrogen and 116 PPM Calcium.
Should higher Nitrogen and Potassium levels be desired, the addition of 1-ounce Potassium Nitrate per 1000 gallons will add the following concentrations:
Nitrogen—1.00 ppm N Potassium 2.74 ppm K
Should higher Calcium levels be desired, the addition of 1 ounce Calcium Chloride per 1000-gallons would add the following concentrations:
Calcium as Ca—2.09 ppm Ca
Should higher Potash levels be desired, the addition of 1 ounce Potassium Sulfate per 1000-gallons would add the following concentrations:
Potassium as K—3.11 ppm K
Should higher Manganese levels be desired, the addition of 1-ounce Manganese sulfate per 1000 gallons would add the following concentrations:
Manganese as Mn—1.87 ppm Mn
Should higher Iron levels be desired, the addition of 1 ounce of the following per 1000 gallons will add the following concentrations:
13% Chelated Iron as Fe EDTA — 0.975 ppm Fe
11% Chelated Iron as Fe DTPA — 0.80 ppm Fe
6% Chelated Iron as Fe EDDHA — 0.45 ppm Fe
Jack’s Hydroponic Formula is heavily buffered to produce an idea working solution pH of between 6.00 and 6.50, but under unusual circumstances, it may be necessary to adjust the solution pH up or down with the use of mineral or organic acid complexes. Please consult water quality when choosing amount for pH change.
For over 65 years, the Peters’ family has designed and produced "The Finest in Soluble Fertilizers"
Our laboratory has been providing outstanding analytical services to the horticulture industry for over 55 years. Professional growers, horticultural products manufacturers, and university researchers throughout the world trust us to supply accurate and timely services.
rocking
rocking
So ive smoked the MOB a bunch of times, but i dont think i had seen its true potential till i seen my buddies. it was always not so appealing, but i guess that goes to show the growers potential. it took me awhile to even want to even except a cut. i always was like nahh, waste of space.
so then i saw my buddies an decided i'd give her a try. well she absolutely loves the ppk setup. and or the plasma. she is a lovely lovely plant!!
beautiful sweet smells overtake the whole room. colas twice the size of everything in the room, an maybe even 3 times some others.
only down side i see on her is she has these preflowers throughout veg an can be a little slow. kinda stuck between veg an flower it seems.
but as soon it was 12/12 it started flowering hard 5-7 days before everything else. great sweet berry smell, very very greasy. reminds me of the NYCD greasy. not huge sugar trics like a glue or stardawg or sour bubble, but alot of small greasy trics. very fluid feeling when touched to pull in for an upclose smell.
cant wait to see her day 65-70. not sure how long she normally goes.
but for day 25. very very very impressed!!!
willing to bet at the end of flower she will be as wide as a full size lighter.............the long way...
rocking
So ive smoked the MOB a bunch of times, but i dont think i had seen its true potential till i seen my buddies. it was always not so appealing, but i guess that goes to show the growers potential. it took me awhile to even want to even except a cut. i always was like nahh, waste of space.
so then i saw my buddies an decided i'd give her a try. well she absolutely loves the ppk setup. and or the plasma. she is a lovely lovely plant!!
beautiful sweet smells overtake the whole room. colas twice the size of everything in the room, an maybe even 3 times some others.
only down side i see on her is she has these preflowers throughout veg an can be a little slow. kinda stuck between veg an flower it seems.
but as soon it was 12/12 it started flowering hard 5-7 days before everything else. great sweet berry smell, very very greasy. reminds me of the NYCD greasy. not huge sugar trics like a glue or stardawg or sour bubble, but alot of small greasy trics. very fluid feeling when touched to pull in for an upclose smell.
cant wait to see her day 65-70. not sure how long she normally goes.
but for day 25. very very very impressed!!!
willing to bet at the end of flower she will be as wide as a full size lighter.............the long way...
gg#4 x C99
gg#4 x C99
so i posted the male earlier. i also have random seeds popped unintentionally through out the turface. 5 to be exact. but only 3 alive today so far. I figured if these are so eager to pop an grow, im gonna start some intentionally.
so here goes the sorting.
soaked 21 gg#4 x C99 seeds for 24 hrs in ro water. Paper towelled for 3 days at this pic.
1 small tap root stall
2 one inch tap root stalls.
18 full sprouts that shed their seeds day 2 an 3. broke one during transplant.
so 17 full sprouts planted, one of the one inch tap root stalls planted. 18 total planted in 4 containers. survival of the fittest
gg#4 x C99
so i posted the male earlier. i also have random seeds popped unintentionally through out the turface. 5 to be exact. but only 3 alive today so far. I figured if these are so eager to pop an grow, im gonna start some intentionally.
so here goes the sorting.
soaked 21 gg#4 x C99 seeds for 24 hrs in ro water. Paper towelled for 3 days at this pic.
1 small tap root stall
2 one inch tap root stalls.
18 full sprouts that shed their seeds day 2 an 3. broke one during transplant.
so 17 full sprouts planted, one of the one inch tap root stalls planted. 18 total planted in 4 containers. survival of the fittest
im going with the recommended 50 ppm of epsom. so that ends up being 14grams to 50 gallons. added after the jacks hydro, an before the cal nit.
i am also running earth juice oilly can at like 3 mil per gal. cal mag an humic acids. seen some improvement in smell an taste on the one room i ran the oilly can throughout.
still dialing in rooms. one key things is im not letting them get so big this time... seen some amazing growth with the new approach to nute mixing an keeping ppms closer to 800 at the stretch stage.
starting to switch lower cal nit at day 30-40 as my plants are dark green. in hopes the oilly can makes up for some of the lost Ca by reducing the calnit
i'll keep you posted.... but for now epsom at 14g to 50 gallons.
MID TOWN
Active member
Damn Gman! I Finally just stumbled across Your thread. You're killin it!! Count me me in for the show 
I see you're messin around with mixed spectrum. Have you noticed a difference? I just set up a 310w CMH about 2 weeks ago in the middle of 4 1000w hps to see what all the rage is about.
I see you're messin around with mixed spectrum. Have you noticed a difference? I just set up a 310w CMH about 2 weeks ago in the middle of 4 1000w hps to see what all the rage is about.
Thanks Midtown. im not certain who to put credit towards since the room with the plasma an de light combo has new genetics. an it is the first run of the room, but...its room #5, ppk. Theres been a few runs in other ppk rooms to help this #5 room to run smoother. but to answer the question....... so far the mix light its doing well. The mob absolutely loves it. a week later from post #245 one of the upper cola shots posted above, the mob cola with the lighter...... has easily doubled in size.
also......... running the jacks + cal nit different, or should i say now i am running them correct. first off i was mixxing them wrong. reversed order. then I am also pretty certain i wasnt diluting my add back nutes enough. so when i mixxed my addback concentrate into an existing 700ppm rez with nutes, that concentrate when adding in would cause chemical bonding or whatever lockouts rendering some of my nutrient formula worthless. the meter read the ppm, an i thought things where good, but it wasnt available even if ph was correct for proper uptake. due to some things only a chemist could explain correctly. specifically ca an some i am unsure of.......... atleast i believe.
overall to this point things are showing less deficiency then ever before, well atleast there is a hugeeeee improvement on 90% of the areas. an things were pretty good before.
Now the plants that are directly under the light get smacked with more light then say 2 ft in either direction. that area will exhibit yellowing or other deficiencies. i like to look at it like that focal area is running , while 2ft away they are jogging, then another foot away they are walking.
to change that on the double ended lights i removed the rivets an spread open the reflector so the light is not so focused downward. they are still about 24-30in above canopy an still 600w, 660w, or 750w.
seems that im 600w in transition, then 660w late veg & early flower, then day 15 to 60 flower im 750w. then down to 600w after day 60 till the chop.
i am also removing 10 min intervals of time throughout the flower cycle to mimic the sun. every 10-15 days i remove 10 mins of time off the flower cycle. by day 60 im at 11hrs of daylight an 13 darkness. an as rick james says... darkness is spreading!!
gots some new things to show soon. 2 heads sugaree " c99x sourdiesel", 1 heads g13xdiesel, mob, 4 bodhis solos stash " hollywood purekush x snow lotus". then 2 or so verdant greens blue digiberry. 2 ograskal wifi alien. to this point some day 40, an others day 35, there looks to be a couple keepers, or atleast def worthy of running again. been along time in the making....
bsafe
also......... running the jacks + cal nit different, or should i say now i am running them correct. first off i was mixxing them wrong. reversed order. then I am also pretty certain i wasnt diluting my add back nutes enough. so when i mixxed my addback concentrate into an existing 700ppm rez with nutes, that concentrate when adding in would cause chemical bonding or whatever lockouts rendering some of my nutrient formula worthless. the meter read the ppm, an i thought things where good, but it wasnt available even if ph was correct for proper uptake. due to some things only a chemist could explain correctly. specifically ca an some i am unsure of.......... atleast i believe.
overall to this point things are showing less deficiency then ever before, well atleast there is a hugeeeee improvement on 90% of the areas. an things were pretty good before.
Now the plants that are directly under the light get smacked with more light then say 2 ft in either direction. that area will exhibit yellowing or other deficiencies. i like to look at it like that focal area is running , while 2ft away they are jogging, then another foot away they are walking.
to change that on the double ended lights i removed the rivets an spread open the reflector so the light is not so focused downward. they are still about 24-30in above canopy an still 600w, 660w, or 750w.
seems that im 600w in transition, then 660w late veg & early flower, then day 15 to 60 flower im 750w. then down to 600w after day 60 till the chop.
i am also removing 10 min intervals of time throughout the flower cycle to mimic the sun. every 10-15 days i remove 10 mins of time off the flower cycle. by day 60 im at 11hrs of daylight an 13 darkness. an as rick james says... darkness is spreading!!
gots some new things to show soon. 2 heads sugaree " c99x sourdiesel", 1 heads g13xdiesel, mob, 4 bodhis solos stash " hollywood purekush x snow lotus". then 2 or so verdant greens blue digiberry. 2 ograskal wifi alien. to this point some day 40, an others day 35, there looks to be a couple keepers, or atleast def worthy of running again. been along time in the making....
bsafe
Looks like you got MOB figured out pretty quickly. Got her at Hulk status. Dry that stem out and use it as a beater. Burn the ends so the blood doesn't stick.
I'll be curious to see how long you take her, 65-70 would seem like an eternity given how early I have seen her finish indoors. I don't think I've ever taken her past 60 and outside she's down second week of September, for what that's worth.
I'll be curious to see how long you take her, 65-70 would seem like an eternity given how early I have seen her finish indoors. I don't think I've ever taken her past 60 and outside she's down second week of September, for what that's worth.
nastynate420
Member
Mob boss is a great cash cropping strain. A buddy of mine monocrops a room or two each round of mobb boss and they hit like 2.5 to 3 per light. Jacks is awesome and I love it. They've got good instruction on how to mix on their website. It's super cheap and efficient and is a much better salt than the new vegbloom salt nutrient that's the new thing on Instagram. Keep up the good work gman, you're crushing it bro!
mob an a blue digiberry f2
mob an a blue digiberry f2
day 40-42
mob is looking pretty sweet. some reason the focus was way off when i snapped pics. i'll clean the lens before next photos. this is also the light from the plasmas, so the lighting maybe different when the camera picks up the image. very clear to my eyes but maybe not the camera.
then verdant greens blue digiberry f2 are smelling so berry an sweet/floral candy smelling. almost like a berry jam cooking before it is to be canned. purple like crazy, dark. some good resin development showing on the shaded leaves. this one is #4
its 90-95deg f. out an my room is purpling up at 75deg f inside temps. the fujitsu 24kbtu mini split ac has no problem keeping up with this room.
bsafe
mob an a blue digiberry f2
day 40-42
mob is looking pretty sweet. some reason the focus was way off when i snapped pics. i'll clean the lens before next photos. this is also the light from the plasmas, so the lighting maybe different when the camera picks up the image. very clear to my eyes but maybe not the camera.
then verdant greens blue digiberry f2 are smelling so berry an sweet/floral candy smelling. almost like a berry jam cooking before it is to be canned. purple like crazy, dark. some good resin development showing on the shaded leaves. this one is #4
its 90-95deg f. out an my room is purpling up at 75deg f inside temps. the fujitsu 24kbtu mini split ac has no problem keeping up with this room.
bsafe
