On their Alibaba shop page Kingbrite state that they use ORIGINAL Samsung chips
https://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/...229829aejnH9Uq
kingbrite led's -
- Thread starter zachrockbadenof
- Start date
On their Alibaba shop page Kingbrite state that they use ORIGINAL Samsung chips
https://kingbriteled.en.alibaba.com/...229829aejnH9Uq
ledtime
Member
Even if i have light meter i still can’t turn the power up on my cobs past a certain point. Whatta hell is a light meter going to change?! LOL I can see the point where my plants start show stress symptoms from the cobs/leds. My eyes work just fine and i can feel the leaves losing their softness (getting dehydrated)) with my fingers, i don’t need a meter reading to tell me all that..
There are other growers on ICMag who are suggesting people raise their leds higher so they would see the led radiation stress go away. I really wasn’t the first among weed growers to notice this, and there’s talk on other forums about this too.
I’m not advising people to use only 20 watts/ft. You just made that up.
I’m really telling people to use as much watts as they can, but so that it suits their particular grow space without their plants getting damaged. = hang your lights abit higher so you can run them with more watts. Isn’t that what i’m been saying all along. So don’t start making things up, f-e.
I have never adviced people to use their cobs/leds at a fixed number of watts, cause as i’ve been saying, it changers along with the distance to canopy, so there isn’t a fixed number of watts to use. And it changes depending on your growing style, soil vs. hydro.
If you think that distance to canopy plays no part when you’re dialing in your leds in to reach certain ppfd number, then have it your way. You could easily try this at home during the next few weeks cause you own a ppdf meter, but instead doing tests you’re telling me i’m wrong. LOL. Fine.What ever. I have better things to do than using my time for these convos.
Peace. Out.
PS.
“Why can't you keep up, is the big question on my mind.”
LOL Why can’t i keep up? You just started a thread in which you’re wondering why your plants turn yellow when your coco dries out too much!
You started another thread in which you’re talking about over feeding your plants with extra nitrogen, when the real problem is your grow lights are too close to your plants and this is why your tops are yellowing.
Yea, it’s me who can’t keep up, f-e.
I was running the Kingbrite Bar light. 600W version in a 4x4 tent. I now run the Fohse Aries. The Kingbrite was open diodes. The Fohse is lensed. At full 600W I had to have the kingbrite at 12-14" from the canopy to hit 900PPFD. The Foshe is 36" to hit the same number. I could absolutely use visual plant response to figure out that distance, but it's much easier with a quantum sensor. Light intensity is light intensity. Now active radiation is a different story. LED's just don't have it like HID's do. That's why we can get so close. With the abscense of that high level of radiation we can run hotter tent temps to increase the leaf surface temp.
Where your CREE COB's mess with you is with how they project the light. Their lenses squeeze all of that intensity into a smaller cone and your plants don't like it. And there are pockets of less intensity if the lights are too close leaving parts of the grow space with less intensity. So you raise them up.
This exact process is why I bought an Aries. I mount that mother-fr at the very top of my tent and that is where it stays the entire grow. From start to finish. If initially it's too much I can dim it down. However, I'm only using a dimmer and an quantum sensor to dial in the intesity. The fixed position already evenly spreads the light across the space. If I train the plants right they finish in flower at 36" from the light with no light stress and perfect temp/rh.
Visual queues from a plant are ok, but I prefer the meter because that ultimately rules out light intensity as a source of an issue. I hate wasting time trying to chase down a problem. I think it's light intensity but it could be a deficiency. It could be a combo. Just having that meter takes the possible light intensity problem off the table for sure.
Just my input.
I was running the Kingbrite Bar light. 600W version in a 4x4 tent. I now run the Fohse Aries. The Kingbrite was open diodes. The Fohse is lensed. At full 600W I had to have the kingbrite at 12-14" from the canopy to hit 900PPFD. The Foshe is 36" to hit the same number. I could absolutely use visual plant response to figure out that distance, but it's much easier with a quantum sensor. Light intensity is light intensity. Now active radiation is a different story. LED's just don't have it like HID's do. That's why we can get so close. With the abscense of that high level of radiation we can run hotter tent temps to increase the leaf surface temp.
Where your CREE COB's mess with you is with how they project the light. Their lenses squeeze all of that intensity into a smaller cone and your plants don't like it. And there are pockets of less intensity if the lights are too close leaving parts of the grow space with less intensity. So you raise them up.
This exact process is why I bought an Aries. I mount that mother-fr at the very top of my tent and that is where it stays the entire grow. From start to finish. If initially it's too much I can dim it down. However, I'm only using a dimmer and an quantum sensor to dial in the intesity. The fixed position already evenly spreads the light across the space. If I train the plants right they finish in flower at 36" from the light with no light stress and perfect temp/rh.
Visual queues from a plant are ok, but I prefer the meter because that ultimately rules out light intensity as a source of an issue. I hate wasting time trying to chase down a problem. I think it's light intensity but it could be a deficiency. It could be a combo. Just having that meter takes the possible light intensity problem off the table for sure.
Just my input.
Hi.
Yea , i’m sure ppfd meters are handy, esp. when you’re getting a new light and need to dial it in, but once you get to know the symptoms of led radiation, i don’t think you need a meter. I see in 10-30mins on the leaves of my plants or seedlings if the wattage is too much for them. = the leaves start to loose their waxy shine and start to feel abit harsh/dry in my fingers.
..and the first thing i do is i raise my light abit if i can, maybe 5-10 cm at first. If i can’t raise my light then the only thing i can do is dim the light down abit, just a few watts at a time till i see the plants can handle it little better.
Before i changed from hps/CFL lights to cobs/leds i had grown my plants with the same set up and nutrients for years, so it was easy to narrow down the source of the problem but it took few messed up grows to learn all that.
I get led radiation symptoms under my Samsung LM301H strip lights too, not just my Cree cobs, but sure, i understand that the beam out of cobs is very concentrated and that lenses/reflectors can make it even more intense. ..but i see the dehydration-symptom also on my vegging plants under my Samsungs.
I’m a soil grower and soil grown plants are much more sensitive to led radiation than hydro/coco grown plants, cause in hydro there’s more moisture in plant tissue, so they won’t dehydrate so badly under led radiation. You can keep hydro-plants atleast 1/3 closer to leds/cobs than plants growing in soil.
Yea, you need the right humidity % to keep plants in good shape under leds. I’m a small cab/tent grower and enviro-controlled grow spaces aren’t possible for me, but cold and dry winter air really created a good learning curve with cobs/leds for me. And now i know what the problem with modern leds is. It’ a dehydration problem and it gets worse if the humidity in the grow space is too low..
Calmag and epsom salts help to keep leaves in better shape under leds, cause they help plants to grow harder cell walls, so they wont dehydrate as easily, but i really don’t think you need a stronger NPK feed cause the plants are growing under leds. My NPK levels are just the same as when i grew with a hps light.
Too much Nitrogen will ruin your marijuana; it will make it smoke harshly, so don’t use any extra N just because your plant tops get abit pale/yellow under leds, just raise your lights abit! ...just like in the hps days.
Fohse Aries..... holy shit...almost $1500 bucks for a 600- prob overkill for a 4x3.5ft tent, but even if i had a larger tent, thats way over the top - maybe for a commerical grower, but for a home grower ... besides , in a year/two i'll want to upgrade to the next greatest light...
It is hard to say. They only offer 1 year warranty. Seems they are not confident with their quality.
Also, they only used 4 bars for a 480W model. Seems their chip quantity is about 1000 pcs only. We used 2000 pcs chips.
check out this blog: https://www.mars-hydro.com/info/how-...ow-lights.html
Then you will know how to choose the bar design LED grow light.
ledtime
Member
I do wish they had a higher diode count. Not a bad light. These days there are better lights for the money. My brother has one of your lights (QB style). It produced a nice grow. It falls off at the edges too much for my taste. Maybe better in a 3x3 rather than 4x4? Nonetheless, your lights grow just fine as well. Equal quality flower compared to the kingbrite. Kingbrite just gave up more yield due to the footprint being a little stronger at the edges. That's just my personal experience. Results may vary! LOL
Gentlemen above crushed on the price of the Fohse. Yeah it's expensive. I was able to snag mine for under $1500. I absolutely love the fixed height. I couldn't get another brand light at the 600W range that could do that. So, everyone will pay for something. For some folks they like the bells and whistles of a Denali. Others are fine with the SLT package. Both are SUV's. Both get the job done. One does it a little differently than the other feature wise. Same thing with lights. Just get the light that checks off as many of the boxes you have within your budget (quality components should be at the top of that list).
while i am not a fan of mars, as they seem to inject themselves in every led thread, they seem to have a pretty good rep/make a pretty good product, and most importantly , they have stock already in the states. so shipping is much quicker- if i order from kingbrite, i prob won't see the light for 6weeks, and i'll bet it will even be longer...
I do wish they had a higher diode count. Not a bad light. These days there are better lights for the money. My brother has one of your lights (QB style). It produced a nice grow. It falls off at the edges too much for my taste. Maybe better in a 3x3 rather than 4x4? Nonetheless, your lights grow just fine as well. Equal quality flower compared to the kingbrite. Kingbrite just gave up more yield due to the footprint being a little stronger at the edges. That's just my personal experience. Results may vary! LOL
Gentlemen above crushed on the price of the Fohse. Yeah it's expensive. I was able to snag mine for under $1500. I absolutely love the fixed height. I couldn't get another brand light at the 600W range that could do that. So, everyone will pay for something. For some folks they like the bells and whistles of a Denali. Others are fine with the SLT package. Both are SUV's. Both get the job done. One does it a little differently than the other feature wise. Same thing with lights. Just get the light that checks off as many of the boxes you have within your budget (quality components should be at the top of that list).
Maybe you used the old TS light. It was the design about two years ago.
We have some new models. For our new FC and FCE series, the edges PPFD is close to the cental one. On the one hand, the bar design helps avoid the sharp decrease at the edges. on the other hand, more diodes are clustered at the edge of each bar. this unique feature also contribute to the uniform PPFD. FCE4800 can replace TS3000 perfectly.
FCE4800: https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-e4800-led-grow-light
Radiation stress?????? WTF? Kingbrite makes great boards, but I definitely won`t buy chinese anymore. At least as much as I can... Mars? Meh... Here we have "Mars" in Argentina, but they are Osram chips, so... I prefer COB still. Samsung quantums are the best I ever had, I bought some from GeekLight on Alibaba, but as I said, I won`t buy there anymore.
thanks Goat Cheese, for sharing your experience. i just got 2 modern led fixtures to replace my 2x600hps, its gonna be an adventure. the lights are supposed to be v good. guy was saying he is getting 2.5gpw great quality, less heat to deal with and half the power bill. hope i didnt make a mistake, company is called sanlight, lamp is evo series, draws up to 300 watts
https://www.sanlight.com/en/product-series/sanlight-evo-2/
any advise or information is appreciated, was gonna hang them on pullies, but if they are so strong maybe i will fix instal them after all.
https://www.sanlight.com/en/product-series/sanlight-evo-2/
any advise or information is appreciated, was gonna hang them on pullies, but if they are so strong maybe i will fix instal them after all.
..gaiusmarius
No, use pullies or chains rather than fixed mounting, you will get more out of the lights if you can raise or lower them in different situations.. The lights will be more efficient in your use when you've found the right balance of hanging height vs. watts to suit your personal grow space and style..
On their page it says they use Osram chips, so i’m sure they’re very good lights. I’ve seen those SANs on the web shops of local grow shops here and they usually don’t sell crap lights. No worries. The spectrum looks nice too, around 3500K i’d imagine, looks similar to Samsung’s and Cree’s 3500K spectrums + more far red.
Just keep enough distance to canopy and start easy. At least 50cm if you’re a hydro/coco grower - 20 -25cm more if you grow in soil, cause plants in soil dehydrate easier under leds than hydro plants, which have more moisture in their tissue.
Keep looking how your plants respond to the light. They will start showing symptoms in under 5 minutes if the light is too much for them; they start to go pale, develop a dried out look and the leaves will start feeling abit harsh/dry in your fingers. The leaves will go down ward, fingers curling down at the edged like in cold dry air if the light is really over the top too much for them and at this point they will start yellowing really fast.
If you see yellowing issues and the leaves looking dried out and missing some of their healthy ,waxy shine, raise your light 10-20cm depending on the situation and see if the plants start looking abit better the next day. Always raise your light first before dimming it down if the situation isn’t too bad. But if you can’t raise your lights any higher then you just have to dim them down abit till the plants are feeling better.
It takes a good while for the leaves to recover from the yellowing if the leds got to them badly, but they will start feeling abit softer in your fingers again in a day or two once the leds aren’t harming them any more, thou they may still look pale.
CalMag helps plants to grow harder tissue,i read, so adding extra calmag will help leaves to stay in better shape under modern leds, in another words; you can keep your led lights closer to your plants without seeing dehydration symptoms. I give my soil grown plants 0,3ml/L of Canna CalMag every feed and it clearly helps.
Try to keep the humidity in your grow space as good as you can, cause dry room air will make plants suffer much easier under leds/cobs.
Looking forward to seeing how those Osram lights perform. Good luck with them.
I haven’t looked deeper into photon science regarding modern horti-leds and how it really works but photons do act as carriers to heat radiation.
LEDs are fairly concentrated beams and i think they could create hot spots on the leaves thou the ambient air under the lights doesn’t feel as hot as a hps bulb, esp. when fans are moving air in the grow area.
No, use pullies or chains rather than fixed mounting, you will get more out of the lights if you can raise or lower them in different situations.. The lights will be more efficient in your use when you've found the right balance of hanging height vs. watts to suit your personal grow space and style..
On their page it says they use Osram chips, so i’m sure they’re very good lights. I’ve seen those SANs on the web shops of local grow shops here and they usually don’t sell crap lights. No worries. The spectrum looks nice too, around 3500K i’d imagine, looks similar to Samsung’s and Cree’s 3500K spectrums + more far red.
Just keep enough distance to canopy and start easy. At least 50cm if you’re a hydro/coco grower - 20 -25cm more if you grow in soil, cause plants in soil dehydrate easier under leds than hydro plants, which have more moisture in their tissue.
Keep looking how your plants respond to the light. They will start showing symptoms in under 5 minutes if the light is too much for them; they start to go pale, develop a dried out look and the leaves will start feeling abit harsh/dry in your fingers. The leaves will go down ward, fingers curling down at the edged like in cold dry air if the light is really over the top too much for them and at this point they will start yellowing really fast.
If you see yellowing issues and the leaves looking dried out and missing some of their healthy ,waxy shine, raise your light 10-20cm depending on the situation and see if the plants start looking abit better the next day. Always raise your light first before dimming it down if the situation isn’t too bad. But if you can’t raise your lights any higher then you just have to dim them down abit till the plants are feeling better.
It takes a good while for the leaves to recover from the yellowing if the leds got to them badly, but they will start feeling abit softer in your fingers again in a day or two once the leds aren’t harming them any more, thou they may still look pale.
CalMag helps plants to grow harder tissue,i read, so adding extra calmag will help leaves to stay in better shape under modern leds, in another words; you can keep your led lights closer to your plants without seeing dehydration symptoms. I give my soil grown plants 0,3ml/L of Canna CalMag every feed and it clearly helps.
Try to keep the humidity in your grow space as good as you can, cause dry room air will make plants suffer much easier under leds/cobs.
Looking forward to seeing how those Osram lights perform. Good luck with them.
Yea, i just call it led radiation for lack of a better term, and to make a difference with classical heat radiation like out of a hps bulb.. I think the photons out of modern white leds are so intense that they need to go thru certain amount of atmospheric gasses, air, before they hit the plant tissue or they will start warming up and drying out the plant matter.
I haven’t looked deeper into photon science regarding modern horti-leds and how it really works but photons do act as carriers to heat radiation.
LEDs are fairly concentrated beams and i think they could create hot spots on the leaves thou the ambient air under the lights doesn’t feel as hot as a hps bulb, esp. when fans are moving air in the grow area.
gaius..
note my addition about hanging your lights at the begining of my post ..i might have added it in after you read the post, i noticed yor like after editing the post.
note my addition about hanging your lights at the begining of my post ..i might have added it in after you read the post, i noticed yor like after editing the post.
thank you for the feed back, much appreciated. i will use an adjustable hanging method. after re reading the thread i came to that conclusion too. was my plan to start with, but before i understood these things can actually burn the plants. was expecting more neon light tube type of distancing when i first thought about how to hang these lol.
That is called heat. Nothing new.
What I don`t understand is why would you say PPFD meters are handy and useful but you don`t need them because you can use your knowledge of the sympthoms of the "led radiation"? If you have the meter, you dont need to put your plants at risk, PPFD meters are HIGLY useful, efficient and gives you plenty control of your lights, then you can decide up, down, higm dim, low dim, etc. AND you can dial DLI, which is important when you are trying to be efficient. How do you dial your DLI with your eyes? It is impossible. You say 5-10cm as it means anything, having the meter you don`t guess, you just adjust the height and that`s it.
What you see when plants are crispy is because they are burning from the heat of the LED or HID, and if the leaves are like claws, and yellow with brown dots, for example, it doesn`t mean they need CaMg, what they need is you to adjust the other parameters. More light=more photons=more HR, more temps, more CO2, more water. You can give the plant more CaMg and they won`t take more than they have available with your regular fertilizer or amended soil (if you did it right).
God bless
My Cree cobs in my bloom tent are as high as they can be and there they will stay. I really don't need a meter for that. It's a 160cm tall tent. You'd prolly need a meter to dial a light in in there, no doubt.
I know how to work the dimmer, maybe you need a meter to help you with that one too.
So if heat from your leds/cobs is yellowing your plants, what should you do? This is exactly what i have been saying all along.
Yea, i called photons carriers of heat radiation, you're saying nothing new.
chiesesganja
Well-known member
best design
Even if i have light meter i still can’t turn the power up on my cobs past a certain point. Whatta hell is a light meter going to change?! LOL I can see the point where my plants start show stress symptoms from the cobs/leds. My eyes work just fine and i can feel the leaves losing their softness (getting dehydrated)) with my fingers, i don’t need a meter reading to tell me all that..
There are other growers on ICMag who are suggesting people raise their leds higher so they would see the led radiation stress go away. I really wasn’t the first among weed growers to notice this, and there’s talk on other forums about this too.
I’m not advising people to use only 20 watts/ft. You just made that up.
I’m really telling people to use as much watts as they can, but so that it suits their particular grow space without their plants getting damaged. = hang your lights abit higher so you can run them with more watts. Isn’t that what i’m been saying all along. So don’t start making things up, f-e.
I have never adviced people to use their cobs/leds at a fixed number of watts, cause as i’ve been saying, it changers along with the distance to canopy, so there isn’t a fixed number of watts to use. And it changes depending on your growing style, soil vs. hydro.
If you think that distance to canopy plays no part when you’re dialing in your leds in to reach certain ppfd number, then have it your way. You could easily try this at home during the next few weeks cause you own a ppdf meter, but instead doing tests you’re telling me i’m wrong. LOL. Fine.What ever. I have better things to do than using my time for these convos.
Peace. Out.
PS.
“Why can't you keep up, is the big question on my mind.”
LOL Why can’t i keep up? You just started a thread in which you’re wondering why your plants turn yellow when your coco dries out too much!
You started another thread in which you’re talking about over feeding your plants with extra nitrogen, when the real problem is your grow lights are too close to your plants and this is why your tops are yellowing.
Yea, it’s me who can’t keep up, f-e.
I ignored my notification before.
You use about 20w a foot. Do the math. You use cobs that have as little as 5 degree's divergence and have 20% RH and complain your plants are dry. Your best yield is 16oz a meter, which is panic stations for me.
It would be quite amusing if I posted plants going yellow because I didn't water them. You should really share that with us.
We can only give advice from where we stand. While at 20w hiding from the non-existent LED radiation, the footing isn't great.
I actually have KB lights. The topic of this thread. So when I talk about them, it's from experience.
I don't post pics unless I need help with something, or I'm helping someone myself. This pic is 600w GP vs KB LED. Try and notice the plants.
Attachments
fe...... thats a heck of a grow..... very,very nice...
