Janedope's Grow

[janedope]

It sounds like you are using organic products and organic soil amendments. Why would go and mess with all of that with some (more than likely inorganic) sulphuric acid?

Honestly the answer to that would be I didnt know any better... I'd definately be interested in organic PH reduction, or in not even reducing PH at all if not neccessary... I'll definately check out those threads... thanx for the input..

 

[jasno]

nice, i wonder if u got those clones because of your vagina?

ahah

no, im just sayin.

 

[accessndx]

Oh my!

Oh my!

Im not sure what H3PO4 is ..yet.

That's simple bro:

It's C3PO's cousin...​

 

[cellardweller]

Lmao @ access.. always crackin me up..
Quazi Thanks for the more in depth explanation there.. I guess I have always been a bit OCD about ph and this is even after friends have said not to be when using dolomite..
I think the real reasoning behind this is that we all would like to have great healthy looking award winning plants that still produce quality bud. The fact remains that even if the plant doesnt look too healthy it willl still produce buds. Maybe not huge yields, but bud none the less.
As this is janes very first grow, we are just trying to grow em out healthy and get jane in some good plant health habits early on.

jasno why dont you go back to yummybuds thread where you belong if you dont have anything intelligent to add to the conversation.

be safe, be high
~cellard

edit:
H3PO4 is the phosphuric acid based PH down. I went to the sulphuric base when I found my I couldnt maintain proper ph levels with H3PO4.
F.U.C.K.I.T. try some vinegar..cant really hurt em..

 

[janedope]

Quazi thanks for the help, do you think i risk shocking the plants if i start watering them with un PH'd water?? It comes out of the faucet about 8.0... Id rather do that than try the vinegar this time around only because im already in flower and dont wanna start messin around with too much different shit that could have bad results...

jasno i wonder if you didn't get any clones cuz your such a dick.....

 

[Mossad]

I use citric acid, you can buy crystals in any store that has canning supplies.
That or just some OJ or other acidic natural fruit juice, works well and you won't have the smell of vineger.

I have the same issues with my tap water, far to acidic so I just balance each watering even if there is no food in it...takes the guess work out.

I don't understand why they keep the PH so high in tap water, probably for the pipes but even in a pool it's lower than that...plus maybe some bacteria prefer lower PH levels but don't know that for a fact.....suprisingly a PH of 8 does't burn the eyes and they prefer 7 like plants...and that is where water is supposed to be at. Consider going to the bottled watered OR machines, it's quite cheap for five gallons and unless you run Hydro that should last soil quite some time. (the hydryo just needs changed so it's a pain running ten gallons up every two weeks (five for the refill and five to top off).

Good luck, the damage seems very small; but boy can problems run wild.

Watch for watering to much as well, seems like you keep things pretty far from drying out.

Let the soil dry up a little bit, just so it's noticably lighter then give your acidic watering....6.5 or even a little lower since you have to counter your period of higher PH waterings....then balance at 6.8 (or what you prefer).

 

[cellardweller]

jane, try using a few drops of lemon juice to a gallon of tap..it will have the same effect only not as strong as the H2PO2. My shit is showing the same signs and I've talked with a soil friend and we both think it's the ph down we're using for sure.
I wouldnt give em un ph'd water because the mad PH swing will lead to trouble for sure.
peas..
~cd

 

[Quazi]

Glad I was able to share some information with everyone! In regards to your question: you said you were getting a 6.8 runoff and that sounds pretty damned good to me.

The amendments that you have in your soil will cause the soil to go towards the acidic side. When they come together with your water that is a bit higher on the pH side you get that nice 6.8 runoff.

As far as water to feed it: you should make sure to let the water sit out for at least 24 hours. This will let the free chlorine evaporate from the water. If you have chloramine in your water supply then you probably want to find another solution as the drops they sell in stores to remove chloramine usually causes a over-salinated plant. Both chlorine and chloramine are no good for the herd of organisms that will be developing with your plant in the soil.

As to whether it would stress the plants to get water that's been adjusted for pH: I don't know. I suppose it's possible for sure. But, they're your plants in your environment. Do they seem like they'd be really sensitive to a change in water/feeding or are they really hardy, heavy feeders? Some plants are more sensitive to feeding changes and training, others just grow and grow no matter what you do.

BurnOne states with a tea that is around a pH of 9 and a soil mix with a pH of around 4, he gets a happy plant in the end.This would make me think that you may be fine. Ultimately you should decide for yourself.

FWIW: I've noticed that water ran through a regular water filter such as a Brita or Pur filter will actually exhibit a point or so loss in pH. Keep in mind though: when you start filtering bad stuff out, you start filtering some good stuff out too.

Consider this a learning experience. If you start trying to treat every little spot and color oddity you see on your plants then you'll drive yourself (and the plants probably :wink crazy. Don't expect, or even strive for, perfection your first run. It's not possible and it's not worth it.

-Q

 

[cellardweller]

Consider this a learning experience. If you start trying to treat every little spot and color oddity you see on your plants then you'll drive yourself (and the plants probably :wink crazy. Don't expect, or even strive for, perfection your first run. It's not possible and it's not worth it.

-Q

Exactly. We're just going through the motions here jane. When you feel more and more comfortable with your strains, then you can start dialin em in, but thats a bit away yet..I'm still learning too and I'm using more different strains than ever so it's getting tough for me to dial in something growing it for the first time. This is all "the curve"..

 

[stinkyattic]

Jasno- that comment was wholly unacceptable. REally, really insulting to female growers. Get lost.

Sulfuric is by definition an inorganic substance. Its presence in acid rain, along with detectable levels of Nitric acid, does not make acid rain an 'organic' source of these compounds. Both acids come from exhaust of fossil fuel combustion entering the atmosphere and reacting with the water vapor there.

I have a couple comments and recommendations:
-Grow bags- LOSE THEM. It appears you are moving your plants around at least occasionally? Bags should only be used in stationary grows. I know one grower who is a fellow mod at canncom who uses large grow bags but puts them on wheeled plant stands so that he can turn and rearrange them without jostling the roots.
-Drainage- you need more. Your soil is too wet and adding significant drain holes will not only improve O2 to the roots, but also help with the soil chemistry, because very wet soil is much more damaging to roots than relatively drier soil of otherwise- equivalent chemistry. Those OJ cartons are fine but cut the bottom corners OFF and also cut chunks out of the edges up the sides to help with drainage.
-Thrips- I think you have them.

As for this ongoing pH issue/argument... I feel like a broken record, but a fertilizer with humic acid in it almost never needs tweaking to give a spot-on pH in solution. Canna Bio is a VERY VERY good quality organic fert. PBP is another one that uses a humic acid buffer. Or, buy a bottle of Soil Syrup and enjoy! (not on yer flapjacks, silly)

 

[Quazi]

Jane is lucky to have these forums and apparently good friends too.

What was said above is spot on.

-Q

 

[janedope]

Wow, thanx for all the input guys and gals....

stinkyattic i'll definately get some more drainage going today, thats an easy fix... right now im just gonna adjust my PH w/ lemon juice for the rest of the grow, foreboding any bad signs after the first application... as far as thrips, how could i definately diagnose them and if they are present any way to kill them now that im in flower or should i just finish these girls out and then worry about getting rid of them??

Quazi I couldn't have said it better myself. Without these forums and everyones input, not to mention donations, i wouldnt be where I am right now...

CD as always thanx for all the help bud, you gotta come check the veg chamber out its pretty nice.... the clones seem like they're struggling, 3 of them have a defined taproot showing, the rest have yet to take root.

Again thank you to everyone helpin me out, much appreciated

 

[janedope]

Quick update:

Here's a pic of the Whites I forgot to put on yesterday:



and here's lil wack 3 days into flower, anyone tell his/her sex yet???

 

[Quazi]

and here's lil wack 3 days into flower, anyone tell his/her sex yet???

Too far away to tell. You'll need a pretty close-up shot of the area between the petioles and the stem for us to tell for you. This would require a good macro shot or a nice zoom lens. You'll be able to spot the pre-flowers before any of us probably anyway if you know what you're looking for.

There will be little sacs there that will split and form pistils with a girl:


It's hard to see even with a photo up that close so you'll have to look pretty closely under some good light to see those tiny pistils.

If the sac starts to reproduce instead of split and show pistils, then you've got a boy making pollen sacks on your hands:


Those are some pics that I've taken of preflowers on my plants. Hope you find them helpful!

-Q

 

[Babombeez]

Sweet little setup man... Thanks for cruising by my movable SCROG grow... Glad you are going to go with this method... any questions feel free to ask!


Beez

 

[janedope]

as always thanx for the help quazi.... what kinda window do i have before those sacks would pop and pollinate?

 

[cellardweller]

jane, once those pollen sacks start to show themselves, you have anywhere from 2 days up to a week before they would start to throw pollen. Sorry if I stepped on your toes Quazi..I just thought I would chime in..

edit: stinky, I think you might be lookin at two different grows here. Jane isnt using bags, but why would you think that jane has thrips? I have been there and have not seen anything except one lowly fungus gnat who died a horrible death by smooshing..
jane I really dont think you have any thrips..just to make sure, check the undersides of your leaves for anything that looks out of place..ie; bugs, eggs, larvae, damage done by feeding from the chlorophyll etc..
As O says.."Man we really need CSI here..Cannibis Scene Investigators..lmfao!
I think stinky would make a great Catherine..

 

[stinkyattic]

Post #39, last pic, of the ECSD, check lower leaves for larvae. Also the pics in that post show what appears to be some sort of grow sack. As opposed to a Balkan Wedding Sack.

Actually I think I'd make a better Grissom. Keep me in the lab as usual. Catherine is too motherly and seems a bit high-strung.

 

[cellardweller]

lol...thats just a duct taped juice container..as opposed to a duct taped Balkan Wedding Sack..uchies: I wanted to say Grissom but didnt want to insult you by callin you "da man"..
by now I would think if there were any thrips we would see em flyin around by now..
jane, see anything flyin around? or crawlin?

 

[stinkyattic]

Thrips are pretty small and it's hard to see the winged adults unless you are looking for them. Look for ~1-2mm blonde colored larvae on the worst affected low leaves, and also for their poops and silver munchy trails.

A duct tape wrapped wedding sack would be more effective if the Wife-To-Be is rather hefty...