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If it doesn't Shatter, it doesn't matter! Tribute to Jolly Rancher Amber Glass Thread
- Thread starter medicalgreen
- Start date
medicalgreen
Member
medical-
My buddy that makes it supposedly uses activated carbon for making his amber and it turns out great! and im 99% sure alcohol is not used..
I saw this thread and decided I should make what I had frozen in my freezer as a tribute to JUMP117
ABSOLUTE AMBER SHATTER using Jumps recipe-
Nice work Daheadies, looks like were finally in the 1st class. Great Pics!
How come you have not tried it out yet, then?
Have you run any with Carbon, and if not, how come?
I suppose there are more methods to try out. The universe is wide open. Thanks!
daheadies
poppin' outta control
I havn't because I just got jumps method and have not had the urge to switch it up yet.. But I think using carbon you might be able to use dry material??? kinda makes sense if re-carbon's your shit.. I dunno if thats how it works, but I think my friend uses dry material w/ carbon and gets shatter amber..
Looks like I lied! Reviewing the label, Drierite is actually Calcium Sulfate instead of Magnesium Sulfate.
We simply start stirring the CS into an alcohol or hexane suspension until it stops clumping and turns back into a powder. We then filter it out using a 150 micron Watmann #1 filter, usually with a vacuum assist, followed by a 0.2 micron syringe filter.
medicalgreen
Member
I'm getting it from dried trim without carbon. But i'll try it out.
My yields are very low though, and i'm not sure yet if its the material or the process. I used to get around 75 grams per lb but now it's more like 24 if I want shatter material. Could be the medium grade trim im using though.
Oh yeah, I used to grind my stuff up, but now I don't. That could be a major factor, but I would think all that stuff doesn't really belong in the mix. Maybe I need to go back to square #1 again.
medicalgreen
Member
Well, it is good quality trim. BTW.
I think there are always several directions to get to the same location. Just keep exploring, as I will, myself. We're both making progress, at least.
I agree that the first purest extraction is best done with an intact and frozen material,
and on the second step is useful to decarboxylate for the most complete extraction of the residual resin.
Allow me to clarify the details of getting those ambers of premium quality from the first message, is it BHO or AA?
medicalgreen
Member
medicalgreen
Member
Not happy at all with Carbon Filtration. It's small enough to go through the coffee filter, then i need an additional syringe filter to get that crap out. Too much trouble for NOTHING.
Maybe my method is improper, but I don't think it's helps at all, after ethanol or alcohol. Didn't appear to clean anything up that was significant. I had to toss part of the extraction from too much contamination from the carbon. Dirtied up too many filters and was still present in the solution.
Maybe my method is improper, but I don't think it's helps at all, after ethanol or alcohol. Didn't appear to clean anything up that was significant. I had to toss part of the extraction from too much contamination from the carbon. Dirtied up too many filters and was still present in the solution.
Not happy at all with Carbon Filtration. It's small enough to go through the coffee filter, then i need an additional syringe filter to get that crap out. Too much trouble for NOTHING.
Maybe my method is improper, but I don't think it's helps at all, after ethanol or alcohol. Didn't appear to clean anything up that was significant. I had to toss part of the extraction from too much contamination from the carbon. Dirtied up too many filters and was still present in the solution.
Charcoal has its uses, but I prefer alchemy for cleaning up oil.
Check out my post on, "Getting the green and waxes out afterwards."
Syringes and syringe filters are relatively cheap on E-Bay, and once you have one, you will never look back, even if you never use charcoal again. They are so handy and have so many uses in cannabis alchemy.
Separatory funnels are also relatively cheap, or you can use Ziploc bags.
Here is a picture of oil cleaned by the process I cover in the above post, to put the clarity of the end product into perspective.
I appologize for the lack of artistic presentation, and salute ya'll more artistically gifted brothers and sisters that take the extra time to do so! Makes my lips smack just looking at them.
Post extraction refinement can be a lot of extra work, and most of our applications don't call for that level of refinement because we have 95% EtoH and 99% Iso available in Oregon, as well as ready access to non polar solvents.
For those that do, alchemy and sub micron filtration is how we do it.
Attachments
Hey Jump,
I have some response and more questions for you.
I tried dissolving that wax mass, by heating my alcohol, in a double boiler situation. I took the outer water to 140 degrees F. That brought the inner alcohol to a boil almost. I left it like that for about 45 minutes. I re-filtered it, and got almost 1 more gram from that mass. The shatter was slightly sticky, but i'm sure it'll harden up in time. Then I took that mass, and placed it onto a warm pyrex and it melted JUST LIKE WAX!
There was nothing left in it, that looked even slightly recoverable. The whole mass never dissolved in the warmed alcohol. It seems like no matter what I do, I cannot dissolve it. BUT, on the good side, i'm beginning to think this may be better, anyways. What's the point of dissolving something that will eventually be separated anyways? So, in other words, what i'm thinking here, is that it's GOOD that the 151 does not completely dissolve the waxes and fats and lipids. Less work in the long run, it would appear.
I think I was right, for the most part, that it is indeed BHO Poop. looks like a turd to me. Melts exactly like a wax would, too. The only thing I have left to do, I think, is to try smoking it, with no other herb or oil, in the beginning of the day, and see how it affects me.
here are the pics I took of it in the filter, then dropped out of the filter.
BHO Wax Turd
I get a similar red wax residue when I add water to the plant material after a QWET extraction, to glean the remaining material and thank brother Jump for turning me on to subsequent water extraction, because I also get some more usable product.
I just extract the extra oil from it and pitch the "stool."
medicalgreen
Member
Not yet Jump, that's in the works.
Currently just redissolving in alcohol, then re-filtering and using a better filter.
medicalgreen,
You say you don't like bubble hash, but what about dry sift resin cleaned up to over 70% THC? Maybe you have seen the photos of my basically 100% resin heads with all other waste removed?
I always worried about oil, who made it using what solvents, and were they all removed at the end? That and I know a lot of growers that made oil from inferior Cannabis products, even moldy ones. I am not trying to say you would do this, I am pointing out how difficult it is for the consumer to make safe and wise and economic choices.
With herb or resin you can tell if it has been adulterated for example, with oil not so easy, with shatter maybe a bit easier.
Something is still in your shatter oil, as 100% pure THC has no taste or smell or color and is a very very thick oil not a solid. The red color is from degraded oxidized THC it can be removed like is done with honey oil.
If you are ever in Amsterdam PM me.
-SamS
You say you don't like bubble hash, but what about dry sift resin cleaned up to over 70% THC? Maybe you have seen the photos of my basically 100% resin heads with all other waste removed?
I always worried about oil, who made it using what solvents, and were they all removed at the end? That and I know a lot of growers that made oil from inferior Cannabis products, even moldy ones. I am not trying to say you would do this, I am pointing out how difficult it is for the consumer to make safe and wise and economic choices.
With herb or resin you can tell if it has been adulterated for example, with oil not so easy, with shatter maybe a bit easier.
Something is still in your shatter oil, as 100% pure THC has no taste or smell or color and is a very very thick oil not a solid. The red color is from degraded oxidized THC it can be removed like is done with honey oil.
If you are ever in Amsterdam PM me.
-SamS
medicalgreen
Member
new pics-
The stuff thats not amber is either due to
daheadies, congratulations.....you have made budder.
My pics are coming. I just got budder for the first time, too.
I got a budder that shatters and a budder that crumbles.
daheadies
poppin' outta control
Heres a whole shot of all the grades.. Ya I get the shatter budder and powder budder as well. Do you think that the opaque budder is even further refined than the amber/ has the etoh more removed? do you think that it is because of excess heat? It would make sense if it was cause of excess heat since the opaque stuff comes from the scrape closest to the plate/ heat source
medicalgreen
Member
Heres a whole shot of all the grades.. Ya I get the shatter budder and powder budder as well. Do you think that the opaque budder is even further refined than the amber/ has the etoh more removed? do you think that it is because of excess heat? It would make sense if it was cause of excess heat since the opaque stuff comes from the scrape closest to the plate/ heat source
I find it's an art of heating and cooling. Like cooking. That's why your friend told you small batches are better. I'll bet if you do everything the same, but make your batches smaller, you'll get the shatter everytime. I got the budder when my batch was too large, so I needed to stir more frequently. I believe it's co2 that get's whipped up and trapped as it's being released. Not sure though. I think it's just more decarboxed. It definitely gives me a different more stoned, high. Not as functional for daytime.
