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IDIOT's GUIDE TO PPK

ImaginaryFriend

Fuck Entropy.
Veteran
I'd use something with a lip, like the sink tailpiece.

If you want to use a different diameter, someone recommended slicing bits of coupler the right size for the pipe you want, and cementing them in place like a lip.

Aquarium grade/food grade/cannabis cultivation grade.
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Pop top bottles. .

2" wide with a lip and a lid which acts as a anchor.
Only ? Is type o plastic might turn brittle..im testing em out this run and so far so good. I do use with plummers glue on rim/under lid for added support.

 
Couple questions for the ppk experts out there. Wrapped my head around most of it and might do an experimental run with one plant to see how it works.

1) How is the water level in the lower bucket controlled?

2) When I read about air gap, is that the gap between the high water level and the pot containing the soil so the wick is completely immersed in the lower bucket nutrient solution or is there an air gap between the bottom of the wick and the lower nutrient solution?
 

FlowerFarmer

Well-known member
Veteran
1) water level is controller by the float valve in the pulse reservoir. This sits on the same level ground as the plant modules so whever level is maintained in the res will be the same level in the lower bucket. Single module never to be connected to a pulse res? I think you'd just install a drain/overflow at where you'd like your water level to be.

2) air gap is space between bottom of top container and water level. Tailpiece bottom end is submerged under water at all times.
^at least to my understanding. I'm not expert, but I think I've got a pretty decent grasp on the system.


D9 has a new thread labeled "big plant ppk" go check it out.
 
1) water level is controller by the float valve in the pulse reservoir. This sits on the same level ground as the plant modules so whever level is maintained in the res will be the same level in the lower bucket. Single module never to be connected to a pulse res? I think you'd just install a drain/overflow at where you'd like your water level to be.

2) air gap is space between bottom of top container and water level. Tailpiece bottom end is submerged under water at all times.
^at least to my understanding. I'm not expert, but I think I've got a pretty decent grasp on the system.


D9 has a new thread labeled "big plant ppk" go check it out.

Ya just saw D9's new thread and answered my tailpiece question right after I posted this.

Now the "control" bucket I see in the other ppk threads makes sense as far as the water level in each lower bucket. I guess what you do is make the float valve easily adjustable to be able to play with the water level to get the right height? I might be up shit creek for this as my basement has a pretty big slant so the water levels would all be different. Maybe I could work something out with a float valve in each bucket keeping the water level perfect.

Thx for clearing that up FF
 

FlowerFarmer

Well-known member
Veteran
Yes.. you could easily do a float valve in a unit or two if you had no intentions of linking together with a pulse res.


Most float valves either have a metal arm which can be easily bent to set different levels or a wing nut which will allow the float part to be adjusted at different angles/heights.


Sucks with the slanted floor. Ran into the same issues with Ebb buckets..All I could think of is build a level sub-floor or shim each bucket to accommodate the proper water level / air gap.
 
Yes.. you could easily do a float valve in a unit or two if you had no intentions of linking together with a pulse res.


Most float valves either have a metal arm which can be easily bent to set different levels or a wing nut which will allow the float part to be adjusted at different angles/heights.


Sucks with the slanted floor. Ran into the same issues with Ebb buckets..All I could think of is build a level sub-floor or shim each bucket to accommodate the proper water level / air gap.

I dug my basement out with my own hands so sloped floors is what I got. 60 yards of dirt with a shovel and wheelbarrow. Looking at what I have now compared to what I had is amazing. Not so good for ppk which kinda sux but I think I'm going to go with a drain to waste system like dorky. Sloped floors will be perfect for drainage. Just like I planned ;-)
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

I dug my basement out with my own hands so sloped floors is what I got. 60 yards of dirt with a shovel and wheelbarrow. Looking at what I have now compared to what I had is amazing. Not so good for ppk which kinda sux but I think I'm going to go with a drain to waste system like dorky. Sloped floors will be perfect for drainage. Just like I planned ;-)

love a man that can DIY to that scale :)
 
Had another thought for the PPK'rs out there.

What make PPK so much easier to maintain then other Hydro systems?

You still have tonnes of feed lines and return lines to maintain and replace. You still have a main rez that need attending to for PH purposes and water levels no? Is it just that if a pump goes on you while your not around the media wick will keep your plants happy and healthy until you can replace the pump? I've never grown hydro so I'm speaking entirely on speculation and don't really know the problems that arise with it but I'm curious on what makes PPK so easy its "boring" in comparison with other hydro systems.
 
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high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
if you use jacks everything is stable and starts to get predictable as you understand the system better.

I dont ph, i just feed when i need it.

No chillers no root rot

The media wick will work depending on plant size and environment. I hand watered some ppks once a week and the wick did the rest in veg. my flowering trees are another story.


tons of feed lines? and return lines?

I have never replaced them, and the only clean them between runs.

picture.php
 
if you use jacks everything is stable and starts to get predictable as you understand the system better.

I dont ph, i just feed when i need it.

No chillers no root rot

The media wick will work depending on plant size and environment. I hand watered some ppks once a week and the wick did the rest in veg. my flowering trees are another story.


tons of feed lines? and return lines?

I have never replaced them, and the only clean them between runs.

View Image

That's a skookum setup! nice work.

Like I said I've never done hydro so I don't have experience with the trails and tribulations that hydro can impose on you so makes it hard to understand why ppk is that much better. That clears it up a little more. Not trying to say its no good or anything just was curious what makes it so much better from a hydro virgin that might dabble soon.
 

high life 45

Seen your Member?
Veteran
Skookum. Thanks! ( I had to look that up tbh)


imho......... The PPK is THE MOST FORGIVING HYDRO SYSTEM

From what I have witnessed it can grow head to head with a uc or rcdwc system without a chiller, air pumps, air stones etc.

I consider myself to be of good fortune to be able to grow in a ppk.
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Skookum. Thanks! ( I had to look that up tbh)


I consider myself to be of good fortune to be able to grow in a ppk.

I'll second that...

PpK has saved me years of trial & errors. . YEARS....

----- :alien::ying::alien: -----

Peace...
 
Skookum. Thanks! ( I had to look that up tbh)


imho......... The PPK is THE MOST FORGIVING HYDRO SYSTEM

From what I have witnessed it can grow head to head with a uc or rcdwc system without a chiller, air pumps, air stones etc.

I consider myself to be of good fortune to be able to grow in a ppk.

Thats some west coast Canada lingo for y'all.

No air pumps or stones? that surprises me. I would think you'd at least want to aerate your main reservoir.

It would be fun to see some Hydroponic show downs head to head. Pretty much impossible that anyone would bother setting up enough of each setup in a single room to actually do it reasonably.
 
New to PPK..

New to PPK..

So couldn't I just modify an over/under ebb n flo table by putting tailpipes down through the table and into the res?

Also, I know this is off topic, but are rdwc's and UC's really outperforming EnF systems? When I was growing EnF all I did was top ups and change the res every two weeks.. Does an EnF res even need to be aerated?

I'm sorry for the thread jack but I'm just getting going again after a few years off..
 
Re: IDIOT's GUIDE TO PPK

So couldn't I just modify an over/under ebb n flo table by putting tailpipes down through the table and into the res?

Also, I know this is off topic, but are rdwc's and UC's really outperforming EnF systems? When I was growing EnF all I did was top ups and change the res every two weeks.. Does an EnF res even need to be aerated?

I'm sorry for the thread jack but I'm just getting going again after a few years off..

Man, I don't know about rdwc or uc, except that I've read that you don't feed them as strong...which is also a characteristic of the ppk, the plants thrive on a 600 ppm mix...but they also survive an accidental 3000ppm feeding... can't do that with the other systems...

And yes I think it would be a great idea to turn your EF into a ppk...
 

farmari

Member
I haven't done ebb and flow before, but am wondering how it compares to PPK in simplicity/effectiveness. At first glance it seems like a PPK system could easily be converted to ebb flow by adding one more water pump and another reservoir, without any need for a medium or at least far less medium with far more options in medium selection, without the need for a wick. With pump/valve failure being the biggest EnF risk vs the risk of clogged wicks with PPKs. But I'm just guessing at all this... what do you all think?
 

zfyq

New member
^^^
They are quite similar except the part where PPK is top fed, instead of traditionally bottom fed Ebb & Flow setups, but also because the water table of the PPK never dries up, so there is always water available somehow, versus E&F where in between floodings, once the medium is dry, its dry, and if plants are drinking enough, they'll suffer if the grower doesn't increase feeding frequency, larger res, etc. PPK takes the hassle out of that

Greetings all, I'm new to this PPK phenomenon, but I just bought 10' of 2" PVC for stand pipe in 2.5G wide former hempy buckets, so I'm about to take the plunge. I had some questions though, and thought this would be a good place to ask instead of cluttering someone elses thread:

D9's latest setup seems to use a single controller/pump bucket instead of one for each, I was wondering if anyone has gone one step further, and used the reservoir with the pump in it as the plant reservoir as well? For instance, converting a standard homebrew DWC bin with 4 holes for netpots on top, into a reservoir with a pump for the pulse feeding, and then just sit normal pots with wick pipes sitting in the res below? I would use a gravity fed float valve in a seperate container inside the res, like D9's, to control a consistent water level, and manage top-ups.
Would the quickly draining water when pulsing, thus changing the airgap/WT level, have a dramatic effect on the plants? Has anyone tried it and I should finish reading the older threads?
 
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