If you recycle your soil use crab shell meal. Use neem seed meal as a dry amendment,recycled soil or not doesn't matter.
;p
;p
How to deal with knats in recycled soil
- Thread starter handyandy
- Start date
Double post
;P
;P
been through it. gnats get real bad in some places. they will shlurp up *all* your seedlings.
dunks/BTI.. works okay.. not a definitive solution.
definitive solution: AGRICULTURAL SILICATE
i used agsil 16h from customhydronutrients.com .. it does increase ph so be prepared.. the silicate slices up larvae in the soil. it works.
also.. i water containers by placing them in a bucket and soaking upwards. put some dry media on the top of the container, like diatomaceous earth. i use an inch of perlite.
they repopulate via the sewers.. if you're really finicky about control, keep all drains nd drain holes plugged when not in use.
dunks/BTI.. works okay.. not a definitive solution.
definitive solution: AGRICULTURAL SILICATE
i used agsil 16h from customhydronutrients.com .. it does increase ph so be prepared.. the silicate slices up larvae in the soil. it works.
also.. i water containers by placing them in a bucket and soaking upwards. put some dry media on the top of the container, like diatomaceous earth. i use an inch of perlite.
they repopulate via the sewers.. if you're really finicky about control, keep all drains nd drain holes plugged when not in use.
IncredibowlBoss
Member
Predatory nematodes have been my #1 weapon against gnats in my recycled soil: I innoculate my containers, my compost bin, and my soil bin every 2-4 months and gnats seem to be a concern of the past. Another tip from an old school bud of mine is to put 2-3 inches of playground sand on the top of your containers: it's too heavy for the gnats to burrow through and they suffocate.
Gascanastan
Since crab meal is Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) you can replace the oyster shell powder (also Calcium Carbonate) or Calcite Lime with crab meal. Higher levels of this material will give you higher levels of Chitin that will give you the enzyme you're looking for to kill insect eggs.
Taking both the neem (or karanja) meal and the crab meal, mixing that about 2:1 with compost or worm castings and letting that sit for 2 or 3 weeks before using in the soil mix is helpful.
Having said that, are these gnat issues usually from commercial potting soil?
CC
I'd say @ least 99% of the time anyway.
Good info on the chitin in crab shell. I use the three way lime mix that includes oyster shell when I use peat,I see what you are suggesting is of equal or greater value.
I am a legal MMJ patient and live near Aberdeen Wa. and could literally drive down the beach and pick up a truck load of crab shell. Is there any value in these shells washed up on the beach? Any suggestions on how I would turn them to powder?
GC
Are you familiar with a soil pesticide called Chitosan?
Are you familiar with a soil pesticide called Chitosan?
This is only the second time hearing of it,and it looks delicious! All kidding aside it is rather amazing.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chitosan
B
BigTex
Two words for ya....biological warfare. I hahen't read the thread so someone may have already mentioned this one. Mosquito dunks. Available at most lowes stores. Crumble them up directly into the soil or, my favorite, make a mosquito dunk tea. I put a dunk in a stocking and bubble it in my water for a couple of weeks, the water gets used and replaced as needed of course, every grow cycle (with a little molasses). They go a really long way like this. The knat larvae eat that particular strain of bacillus and it clogs up their digestive tract killing them and interupting their life cycle.
The knats should begin to disappear after about three weeks. Of course it's sucess all depends on a good healthy rizosphere with a healthy herd.
The knats should begin to disappear after about three weeks. Of course it's sucess all depends on a good healthy rizosphere with a healthy herd.
GC
From the EPA - Chitosan
Both Chitin and Chitosan are found in the shells of lobsters, shrimp and oysters. It is not found in mollusks for example. Like chitin, chitosan is present in the shells of all crustaceans and insects, and in certain other organisms including many fungi, algae, and yeast..
Commercial forms of Chitosan are created by adding microbes to Chitin and an enzyme is produced called Chitinase. It's this specific enzyme which can actually effect the break down Chitin and release the Chitosan string. This enzyme is also a fungicide and acts as a pesticide by preventing the eggs from hardening to allow for development of the larva.
So here's what I ended up doing: I start with #65 SmartPots container which will hold about 9 c.f. and after mixing the soil I dump it, wet it down and let it sit for a 2 - 3 months. This allows the time necessary for the required biological action to create Chitinase as well as breakdown the neem/karanja meals which have their respective pesticide and fungicide compounds and equally important is the kelp meal and a few compounds it contains which prevent the egg shells from hardening as well.
If you'll invest the time using the same materials you are already using you can elevate these properties. Given that kelp meal and neem/karanja meals are the most expensive amendments we work with it makes sense (to me anyway) to give it the best environment to work in.
I also add kelp, neem and crab meals on a weekly program to all of the worm bins.
Maybe high-dosing the worm bins with hydrogen peroxide would be helpful? Or some Dolomite Lime?
CC
From the EPA - Chitosan
Both Chitin and Chitosan are found in the shells of lobsters, shrimp and oysters. It is not found in mollusks for example. Like chitin, chitosan is present in the shells of all crustaceans and insects, and in certain other organisms including many fungi, algae, and yeast..
Commercial forms of Chitosan are created by adding microbes to Chitin and an enzyme is produced called Chitinase. It's this specific enzyme which can actually effect the break down Chitin and release the Chitosan string. This enzyme is also a fungicide and acts as a pesticide by preventing the eggs from hardening to allow for development of the larva.
So here's what I ended up doing: I start with #65 SmartPots container which will hold about 9 c.f. and after mixing the soil I dump it, wet it down and let it sit for a 2 - 3 months. This allows the time necessary for the required biological action to create Chitinase as well as breakdown the neem/karanja meals which have their respective pesticide and fungicide compounds and equally important is the kelp meal and a few compounds it contains which prevent the egg shells from hardening as well.
If you'll invest the time using the same materials you are already using you can elevate these properties. Given that kelp meal and neem/karanja meals are the most expensive amendments we work with it makes sense (to me anyway) to give it the best environment to work in.
I also add kelp, neem and crab meals on a weekly program to all of the worm bins.
Maybe high-dosing the worm bins with hydrogen peroxide would be helpful? Or some Dolomite Lime?
CC
I snort dolomite and powder my bowling balls with it too!!! Anyway I used to use Mosquito dunks as suggested above,and in the various fashions mentioned until I started using crab shell meal and neem seed meal.
Kelp...what isn't kelp good for. I use it in every grow.
Brilliant method there 'manufacturing' the enzyme yourself CC
"Oregon man manufactures magical enzyme 'chitinase' using worms...story at 11"
Kelp...what isn't kelp good for. I use it in every grow.
Brilliant method there 'manufacturing' the enzyme yourself CC
"Oregon man manufactures magical enzyme 'chitinase' using worms...story at 11"
H
hope2toke
I had mollusks for the first time last week. Deeeeeeelishious... and local! in smoked curry sauce.. O man o man so good.
regarding gnats, I have had them for the last year + since I went all organic indoor, and only most recently I haven't seen them for a few weeks. My program: 30 gallon smart pot- loaded with redworms, 6 plants, crab shell, kelp and neem meals, pumice, some other good stuff... I hang the light vertically so they fall down to the dirt instead of on buds. Also "vick's fly catcher" hanging strips- about 5 of them surrounds the garden, I am sure this has had a huge effect on killing them off.
not to give you a cause for concern but BTI has been shown to have toxic effects appearing in urine samples of Bti crops consumed... this is in the agricultural setting where they really pour tons of it on
regarding gnats, I have had them for the last year + since I went all organic indoor, and only most recently I haven't seen them for a few weeks. My program: 30 gallon smart pot- loaded with redworms, 6 plants, crab shell, kelp and neem meals, pumice, some other good stuff... I hang the light vertically so they fall down to the dirt instead of on buds. Also "vick's fly catcher" hanging strips- about 5 of them surrounds the garden, I am sure this has had a huge effect on killing them off.
not to give you a cause for concern but BTI has been shown to have toxic effects appearing in urine samples of Bti crops consumed... this is in the agricultural setting where they really pour tons of it on
IncredibowlBoss
Member
The one other point of caution for BT/mosquito dunks is that the BT bacteria can/will kill beneficial life in your soil - remember, proper organics, just like any good batch of compost tea, works with a balance of bacteria, fungi, protazoans, and nematodes.
B
BigTex
I use the dunks on new medium before I bring it in or if I begin to see knats. I do use microbe brew regularly brewed into a good nutrient tea every 2-3 weeks, and the beneficial herd is plenty healthy over here.
Ive got a issue with knats i believe as well. Its looks like a nitrogen or some nutrient deficiency. The bottom leafs are yellowing and crisping up. And slowly climbing to the top. Ive used 20-20-20 so my nutes should be fine 20 20 20 has everything it needs. And i noticed it doesnt like full all day sun sometimes it gets a bit wilted. Will peroxide kill them or no? I thought peroxide was basically just h20 with 2. So wouldnt they just enjoy the peroxide instead?
I'm just getting into organics so don't hate but I've been reusing my coco for about 2 years now. I used to have terrible FG problems until I started recyclung and implementing the following:
I sift then soak used coco in a strong solution of H2O2 then rinse w tap water until EC is close to EC of tap water, then rinse for a bit w RO. Then I add back beneficial via ACT or straight Great White. lately I started adding a little perlite as the coco is getting a little "thicker" as it breaks down over time.
I sift then soak used coco in a strong solution of H2O2 then rinse w tap water until EC is close to EC of tap water, then rinse for a bit w RO. Then I add back beneficial via ACT or straight Great White. lately I started adding a little perlite as the coco is getting a little "thicker" as it breaks down over time.
Although gnats are more of nuance to a grower what i always have done is sterilize my soils this will indeed kill off any eggs or other pathogens this includes composts .
i then re activate living organisms with a tea Guess what no gnats
ever
Note for indoor or pot grows out door do not even bother
i then re activate living organisms with a tea Guess what no gnats
everNote for indoor or pot grows out door do not even bother
For gnats you need to kill the larva, and kill or trap the adults. Most people only try to do one or the other and can't figure out why they can't get the population eliminated.
BTI (mosquito dunks, bits, etc) for the larva (liquid if possible, or if dry make sure its soaked in water for 36hours before use, sticky traps to trap the adults, or insect soap, cedar spray or even just h202 spray for the adults as a contact spray.
BTI (mosquito dunks, bits, etc) for the larva (liquid if possible, or if dry make sure its soaked in water for 36hours before use, sticky traps to trap the adults, or insect soap, cedar spray or even just h202 spray for the adults as a contact spray.
Sm90.. @1ml a gallon.
I haven't seen a gnat since I started using the stuff (thx dhf)
I haven't seen a gnat since I started using the stuff (thx dhf)
