What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

How Do I Prevent Hash Being Sucked Into My Return Lines?

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
Yes Bay Area and we clean in out between runs by literally disassembling almost every piece and clean it all out before putting back together. Posted an IG pic way back on the first time we cleaned it before doing a run and was full of filth had a pile of paper towels and q tips lol.

But that BHOGART $50/hr is more than reasonable and im sure your within an hour or two of San Jose so definitely worth it if you prefer not to have to deal with it.

I was just checking out your IG yesterday....


Where you sourcing your solvent?
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
Dropped it off at BHOgart's they have many upgrades for the CMEP, so I said do it all. Bearings, rebuild, upgrade that shit please...

Should be done by Tuesday...

Dude working there and NOT the pump rebuilder, recommended I go recovery pump at the highest point, then mol sieve, then recovery pot at lowest point to prevent hash in lines...

Hopefully will meet the rebuilder when I go back and ask what he recommends...
 
We love our Cyclone Filters, they have saved our pumps on multiple occasions. Forget the Mol Sieve, and build a Cyclone Filter. They not only will save your pumps, they also do not have the drawbacks of the Mol S, and are far superior as a water filtration and LP gas polishing system.:tiphat:
 

justintime420

Active member
Sweet deal sounds like they will be able to get it all solved for you there and those upgrades are a must! lol Will look into building a cyclone filter definitely a cool concept
 

Pangea

Active member
Veteran
are you using pharmgold filters or diy, norpene?

sounds like replaceable core is the way to go, no dust right?
 
We purchased our originals from Pharm Gold until their demise, and subsequently build our own. Yes, NO dust and rechargeable by drying the filters in your Vac oven overnight.
 

Terpharvester

New member
The cyclone filter is definitely the way to go. No dust at all and it's got off the shelf replaceable cores. I've sucked liquid into one and it spun the oil around the filter and didn't even get any on the filter itself. Allthough that might have had something to do with how boss the Vaporhawg is.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I might note that I originally designed the cyclone filter for the Mk IVC/VC to protect the Haskel, and I included one with the VaporHawg design because it worked so well on the Terpenators.

If you use the 725 psi SSH clamps, the system meets ASME piping codes for LPG, and I certified the design along with the Mk IVC/VC Terpenators in OR, WA, CO, NV, and MD.

Before doing so, I experimented heavily with mol sieve and different systems down stream of the pump, to remove moisture. What I found is that all of the down stream systems required heat to not "flood" under certain conditions, and that servicing them was a major operation due to having to recover the system downstream of the pump before being able to do so.

I was hesitant to put an inlet drier on and restrict the airflow on the pumps weaker inlet side, but by making it significantly larger than actually required for the air flow, I was able to get the inlet restriction to negligible levels, so that no performance losses were noted by the beta tester Sneaky Sneaky on a Mk VB, adding the cyclone filter and removing the downstream filter.

No tedious backside recovery required before servicing, and it requires no heat to prevent flooding. Easier to service, also means more likely to get serviced, and I had enough dealing with mol sieve beads and dust to satisfy my natural curiosity and urge me to find another solution.
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
Pump is still at BHOgarts, almost two weeks later...

I went ahead and am building the Cyclone Filter. Have all the parts, its being welded up right now...
 

Dabbles

New member
Pump is still at BHOgarts, almost two weeks later...

I went ahead and am building the Cyclone Filter. Have all the parts, its being welded up right now...

I need to get my CMEP OL rebuilt as well. I also have run for the last year with my pump being below my collection pot, with no filtration or drying whatsoever. WHat was I thinking??? Anyways, Krunch, please keep us updated. I may ship my unit to BHOgarts if you report positive results.
 

Dabbles

New member
The CMEP is fairly easy to rebuild for a novice, the bearings are off the shelf items. I would drill and tap a 1/8npt h
ole in the crankcase and plumb a vent line. This may shorten piston seal life but will keep grease out of your butane stream.
As it is there is nothing stopping bearing grease from getting into your butane.

RB

Has anyone actually done this? I keep hearing it mentioned as a good thing to do..., but I'm not hearing anyone chiming in with with a "yes, I did this to mine and it worked well." No offense to those recommending it.

I am still trying to decide what to do with my pump. I would love to tear into it myself, I'm in Michigan, so shipping off the unit to California is going to be pricey and time consuming. My hesitation is not knowing enough about these off the shelf bearings that I would be replacing. I'm also concerned about any seals that I would need to replace, availability, etc..

My old TRS will NOT cut it with how slow it is going today....

Taking apart the CMEP, is it easy to rebuild? Videos make it look pretty easy...

Lets see what happens....

Krunch, do you have any links to these videos on rebuilds? All I've seen on youtube is relative to the heads/pistons only. Curious to your quote ont he upgraded rebuild from BHOgarts as well if you could oblige?
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Has anyone actually done this? I keep hearing it mentioned as a good thing to do..., but I'm not hearing anyone chiming in with with a "yes, I did this to mine and it worked well." No offense to those recommending it.

I am still trying to decide what to do with my pump. I would love to tear into it myself, I'm in Michigan, so shipping off the unit to California is going to be pricey and time consuming. My hesitation is not knowing enough about these off the shelf bearings that I would be replacing. I'm also concerned about any seals that I would need to replace, availability, etc..



Krunch, do you have any links to these videos on rebuilds? All I've seen on youtube is relative to the heads/pistons only. Curious to your quote ont he upgraded rebuild from BHOgarts as well if you could oblige?

I haven't done so on a CM EP OL, but that feature is typically called a ballast, and I put one on the VaporHawg, because LPG does leak past the piston seals and contaminate the crank case, eventually leaching the grease out of the sealed bearings.

That means that the atmosphere that started out in the crank case, can also leak into the gas stream, so we did the roughing vacuum with the ballast open and then closed it for the final vacuum.

Once the system is vacuum checked and operating, on some pump designs such as the VaporHawg, it is a good idea to open the ballast valve slightly while running, because in addition to leaching out the grease, LPG high in Propane, can also get hot and expand to pressures higher than that portion of the pump is rated for.
 
Top