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Help me light up a 25 x 25 Grow !

star crash

We Will Get By ... We Will Survive
ICMag Donor
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So yes I need a lot of power and I’m pretty sure that I already have all the power that I need for all the lights and all the peripherals it’s a question of layout and actually equipment purchased
 

star crash

We Will Get By ... We Will Survive
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Anything in the budget for insulation?

(by the way, Negative, I would totally agree with the logic and I would endorse bar lighting too but I just infer that the budget wouldn't hold at this stage. If money were no object, I'd go LED with this space. A good set of bars should last 5-10 years. Maybe something Star can invest in in the future.)

I’m torn between going all out and finishing it off or just leaving it rough…@ least 12 points of light …if I went full on high tech LED’s gonna cost a fortune…But I’m intrigued
 

bsgospel

Bat Macumba
Veteran
I got a little different calculation than Mithridate but same premise and using .293 as the watt/btu. I usually assume 3 BTU for every watt. @ 12000w, you need 3 tons of cooling for HPS. That calls for about 40-60 amps I think. Some mini-split systems (multiple heads) can achieve the same but they'll run about 5k it looks like.

But if you roll the Mars LEDs + shipping that's 5k and then cooling you maybe only need to spend 1-2k on cooling and it would take a lot less amperage. The immediate concern would then be hanging/proximity/infrastructure. I assumed everything was going on the floor but if you go with tables, you'll spend a bit more hanging them effectively. I know you grow 'em tall which could make daisy-chaining these difficult if you have a perpetual crop cycle. Plus, not to mention the whole LED learning curve yadda yadda
 

star crash

We Will Get By ... We Will Survive
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I got a little different calculation than Mithridate but same premise and using .293 as the watt/btu. I usually assume 3 BTU for every watt. @ 12000w, you need 3 tons of cooling for HPS. That calls for about 40-60 amps I think. Some mini-split systems (multiple heads) can achieve the same but they'll run about 5k it looks like.

But if you roll the Mars LEDs + shipping that's 5k and then cooling you maybe only need to spend 1-2k on cooling and it would take a lot less amperage. The immediate concern would then be hanging/proximity/infrastructure. I assumed everything was going on the floor but if you go with tables, you'll spend a bit more hanging them effectively. I know you grow 'em tall which could make daisy-chaining these difficult if you have a perpetual crop cycle. Plus, not to mention the whole LED learning curve yadda yadda

Here’s the thing ,I’m actually a real hack in the grow room ,everything is in constant flux I’m always moving stuff around and I mean everything. I’ve never had a sealed room nothings ever been stationary, I need to adjust my methods and figure this out because it could be a really good facility …I want to use it in conjunction without seasonal outdoor growing
 

bsgospel

Bat Macumba
Veteran
True. The only thing I didn't like about them was the network cables/controllers (obviously, not necessary for operation.) No matter what I did I could never get the controllers to function for more than 15 seconds. Spent weeks trying to get it right and no dice.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Depending what you have in your kit already, how about mixing your 1000s with LED's. Like substitute half your son's with LED. This way, you won't see all the issues LED's bring, at urgency level 1.

With half the lights swapped, we saw very little of the differing needs. Just a taste of it. Which was nice.
 

star crash

We Will Get By ... We Will Survive
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Definitely want simplicity also I’ve been in the habit Of actually moving lights around both vertically and horizontally to suit the grow as it develops sounds kind of wacky but that’s how I do things… How about bare bulb vertical 1000 W HPS couldn’t get any less expensive than that……all I would need would be ballasts , lamp sockets & cords …and dark sunglasses
 

bsgospel

Bat Macumba
Veteran
Nah, I'm with you. Not wacky at all.
Vertical could be cool. I've never done it but it doesn't seem crazy. A thousand folks here have done it before. I've never really looked into how they did their cooling. Give it a shot :dance013:
 

Mithridate

Well-known member
Honestly that's the way I'd do it.. at least the first run or two. Ceiling height, you loving big plants points to that direction.

15k checkered open concept, massive air exchange, minimal heating and cooling to follow the seasons... Water lines on the ceiling with quick connects so you just carry a watering wand around. Unless you want to automate it;)

Easy to move stuff around, can go 1plant/light to 6+ plants/light. With vertical you have to trim the insides of plants when/after flip meaning unlimited cuts, humidity always on the lower side with vertical etc

Horizontal veg, pallet racks on a wall.. 2 5' high sections as wide as you need... and you still have about 8 feet of free space between the racks and the vertical..

Anyhow just my 2 pesos:joint:
 

Mithridate

Well-known member
I've never really looked into how they did their cooling. Give it a shot :dance013:

Of course sealed with ac would be ideal but you can get away with it with proper air exchange running at night.

The idea is during winter the veg lights would turn on during flower lights out and keep things from getting too cold, may need to add a heat dish/heater.
can also recycle air during lights out, instead of chilly air intake

In summer you run both at night

Etc

edit My verts would reach ~26°c on the worst summer days without ac

edit2 if temps get out of hand during the hottest days you can alternate the pattern 6hrs/6hrs by rows keeping center bulbs on 12hrs using a timer and relay

I hope I'm not too confusing, I still think in french and write in english. It is what it is friends:biglaugh:
 
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bsgospel

Bat Macumba
Veteran
I've used various Fluence fixtures but they were all bar/strips. That model looks wildly expensive for whatever footprint. Here's a quote from a retailer

"Recommended mounting height is ≥ 24” (61cm) above the canopy. BGH (and Fluence) both recommend a mounting height of approx. 3.5' above canopy, which will cover 16-18 sq ft and achieve approx. 950 PPFD. We do not recommend using the VYPR as a single light source, it's primarily designed to be used in large rooms where many VYPR's will be needed/deployed."

I don't know if that would meet your clearance or spread. I think the SPYDR models would serve you better. maybe throw in a dimmer just in case.
 

Mars Hydro Led

Grow on Earth Grow with Mars
Vendor
Good discount if you buy 10 or more ,which is what I would be doing, are they lightweight & easy to hang ? can They be run vertically ? Can they operate on 240? Volts

It is easy to hang. If you want to run it vertically, the fixed device will be needed. They can run from 110V to 277V.

If you buy it from our official website, coupon code"ICMAG" can help you save more money. ;)

https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-e6500-led-grow-light
 
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