Help and tips making shatter and honeycomb

[deeppurple87]

nug run! more pics soon!

 

[ChasingGreen]

All I get is crumble, I hate it. Can't get it to stick to my dabber lol. It's nice for putting into a dual coil little 510 threaded pen with a globe though for on the go. Keep the temps real low, scrape after the initial purge before any vac. Then throw that into the vac as a little paddy and it'll bubble up like that spray foam they use at construction sites.

Why exactly do you want crumble? I never understood why people request crumble, butter, or honeycomb. Enlighten me please.

I'd take shatter over any of that any day. Never been able to make shatter myself, always figured you needed a vac oven to avoid any kind of agitation from scraping.

 

[deeppurple87]

All I get is crumble, I hate it. Can't get it to stick to my dabber lol. It's nice for putting into a dual coil little 510 threaded pen with a globe though for on the go. Keep the temps real low, scrape after the initial purge before any vac. Then throw that into the vac as a little paddy and it'll bubble up like that spray foam they use at construction sites.

Why exactly do you want crumble? I never understood why people request crumble, butter, or honeycomb. Enlighten me please.

I'd take shatter over any of that any day. Never been able to make shatter myself, always figured you needed a vac oven to avoid any kind of agitation from scraping.

Hey my man!
If you read some of our earlier posts in this thread we discuss this in detail. You are right, shatter is generally better and what I always aim for.

I go for honeycomb because sometimes the material is darker or waxier. (when I get it from friends who don't know how to blast or run their Closed loops properly.) When the starting material is opaque it won't make for an attractive shatter. However it still can be made into an attractive honeycomb
If you read earlier in the thread, you can see some dark crap made into some pretty nice honeycomb.

A vacuum oven isn't at all necessary to make shatter look like shatter. (it is necessary to make a safe product)

It should look like shatter right after the blast and initial purge, if it doesn't you need to rethink your blasting mechanism. w/o a vacuum purge I wouldn't recommend making BHO.

Make sure your material is super dry. I always hit the material with a couple fans for a few hours at least beforehand. A dehydrator works even better.

Always freeze the butane cans, the tube, and the material for at least 6 hours.

DON'T FULLY GRIND your material. It will give you a slightly better yield if you do, but only because it is picking up more waxes, chlorophyll, and other undesirables that will cause buddering.. If you really want every last bit of yield do a second blast.
OR
winterize ( i never do as I get stable shatter by not picking up many waxes during the blast)

Also while vac purging, check on the material constantly.
If it isn't reacting (just kind of stuck in a muffin, or no more bubbles are popping) do something else. For example flatten the patty out more, flip the patty, devac slightly so the material can warm up
(w/o an oven the heat comes from the bottom so the bottom gets warmer than the top which can lead to buddering.)

Pics speak a thousand words.
If you could post some pics of ur material after initial purge, and final purge I could tell you exactly where you are going wrong and get you making shatter my man.
Hope this helps

 

[dope_roor]

Hey my man!
...
Also while vac purging, check on the material constantly.
If it isn't reacting (just kind of stuck in a muffin, or no more bubbles are popping) do something else. For example flatten the patty out more, flip the patty, devac slightly so the material can warm up
(w/o an oven the heat comes from the bottom so the bottom gets warmer than the top which can lead to buddering.) ...

yup this. i'd look into a silicon heating pad for the vac chamber. what i use to do is use one of these (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3183478&KPID=4977844&pla=pla_4977844) and periodically warm the surface of the "patty" while in the vac chamber so that it stayed viscous and allowed for bubbles to purge out. flattening it out and flipping it around helps as well.

 

[deeppurple87]

yup this. i'd look into a silicon heating pad for the vac chamber. what i use to do is use one of these (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3183478&KPID=4977844&pla=pla_4977844) and periodically warm the surface of the "patty" while in the vac chamber so that it stayed viscous and allowed for bubbles to purge out. flattening it out and flipping it around helps as well.

I use a silicone mat for the vac purge. Pyrex for initial

 

[deeppurple87]

I have a digital heating pad for my chamber, and I also wrap it up in ski jackets to make it more of an oven. Have had much better results this way

 

[ChasingGreen]

Thanks DeepPurple, what you said makes a lot of sense. Now that I'm into Rosin I doubt I'll ever blast again, but if I do, I have what you said saved.

 

[deeppurple87]

NP bro

 

[Unclecrash]

LOL a couple friends are making a mess with this shit. Shit stuck all over how the hell do you get it from the pyrex to the silicone mat? They need some tools I guess. He bought a bad ass 90gram tube which the on says its a real good one that is dual stage or some crap and dewaxes it. Need some basics been sifting through the thread. He also has the vacuum two stage pump and the chamber. The one is wanting to do shatter. I told them until you figure how to get it all to harden and stay a shatter and not melt your wasting the crap. I think they need to start with a small batch 1/2 oz or so. They one guy I seen blast a tube hit it quick and it come out looking kind of bubbly and gooy like shatter they did it so slow they had a ton of butane to purge off. Any help I can relay to them. I already read a ton of things to tell them. Mty first tab was a terible experience and I should have known better . The one guy talks big shit like he knew how to do it but after hacking my brains out and not getting not taste and a horrible flavor. We tryed a new batch of some Tahoe OG shake and I think he took it right to the vacuum and it dip start to pancake but them he didnt know what to do. so opened it and it turned funky gooey . So we re vacuumed and watched it bubble til it stopped was dark so he took it in and froze it. it got hard but today it is stuck to parchment paper. He took a hit and I could smell it was a zillion times better than the crap he killed me with. So I took a pull and it was super tasty but dark and stuck to everything what a mess.

 

[deeppurple87]

LOL a couple friends are making a mess with this shit. Shit stuck all over how the hell do you get it from the pyrex to the silicone mat? They need some tools I guess. He bought a bad ass 90gram tube which the on says its a real good one that is dual stage or some crap and dewaxes it. Need some basics been sifting through the thread. He also has the vacuum two stage pump and the chamber. The one is wanting to do shatter. I told them until you figure how to get it all to harden and stay a shatter and not melt your wasting the crap. I think they need to start with a small batch 1/2 oz or so. They one guy I seen blast a tube hit it quick and it come out looking kind of bubbly and gooy like shatter they did it so slow they had a ton of butane to purge off. Any help I can relay to them. I already read a ton of things to tell them. Mty first tab was a terible experience and I should have known better . The one guy talks big shit like he knew how to do it but after hacking my brains out and not getting not taste and a horrible flavor. We tryed a new batch of some Tahoe OG shake and I think he took it right to the vacuum and it dip start to pancake but them he didnt know what to do. so opened it and it turned funky gooey . So we re vacuumed and watched it bubble til it stopped was dark so he took it in and froze it. it got hard but today it is stuck to parchment paper. He took a hit and I could smell it was a zillion times better than the crap he killed me with. So I took a pull and it was super tasty but dark and stuck to everything what a mess.

I would def recommend running smaller batches 1st. half ounce or ounce batches until your friends get it right.
Just use the basic glass tubes with 3 coffee filters and some rubber bands if need be, that's what I started with.

Dual stage dewaxing column, hmmm could you post a link? I haven't seen anything like that that doesn't require CO2 or liquid nitrogen.

So after blasting into the pyrex, (I run about 300ml or 1 can of butane per ounce) should get a clear/yellowish solution.

I then transfer the pyrex to an electric griddle filled with water set at LOW. My IR thermometer reads the water at about 130f
leave it there for 15 minutes. There will be some bubbles but slow reaction (no 2 bubbles popping within say 25-30 seconds of eachother)

At this point I quickly move the pyrex near my silicone mat and use a 6in paint scraper to scoop most of it up and spread it out thin on the silicone mat. I then finish scraping the pyrex with a single edged razor blade, scrape the scraper and done. sometimes I use a heat gun to reheat the pyrex or scraper to make the material more pliable (as it does get hard at room temp even at this stage)

At this point I transfer the silicone mat into the vac chamber, allow everything to heat up 105 degrees for 15 minutes or so and start vacuuming.

Hope this helps.
If you could post pics I could tell you a lot more. Its hard to say where things are going wrong w/o them

 

[deeppurple87]

So I finally got around to running the whip it premium.

To start the cans are 400 ml compared to the 300 ml of puretane. Also each cap for every can has 5 adapters built in, which I thought was very nice.

The color of the two was very comparable, however the whip it premium had a little bit of opaqueness (minor waxing up in some areas).

That being said I got 10.44 grams off 2 ounces of trim popcorn. The exact same trim popcorn that yielded me 8.11 grams with the puretane.


That is a significant enough increase to try running whip-it premium again!

However I need total clarity, like I get from the puretane to be totally sold.

I'm sure if I am more careful next time I can get the same clarity with the bonus yield increase!

1st 2 pics are the WHIP-IT Premium run, last 3 are the puretane.

 

[deeppurple87]

Here is a mix I purged. I didn't blast this as you can tell it's a lot darker than what I deem acceptable. It is hard as a rock and tastes great though!

 

[dope_roor]

are you spraying the entire content of the cans? wondering if perhaps that extra 100ml of solvent, combined with variability in nug quality, is boosting your yield?

 

[Obsidian]

dp, maybe your waxing is because you handle your oil with without being gloved, that's more than enough to start the wax appearance.

 

[DoubleTripleOG]

At this point I quickly move the pyrex near my silicone mat and use a 6in paint scraper to scoop most of it up and spread it out thin on the silicone mat.


In the 6 years that I have been making BHO, I never thought to use a paint scraper!!!. Thanks man!! now my thumbnail will stay a lot cleaner, compared to using a single edge razor to do the whole thing.

 

[Unclecrash]

Thank's for the advise I will pass it on. I hear when you get it correct it will be hard and brittle if dropped will shatter LOL. But they say when heated you can mold it or bend it then it should go back to being brittle.

 

[Unclecrash]

Here is a mix I purged. I didn't blast this as you can tell it's a lot darker than what I deem acceptable. It is hard as a rock and tastes great though!

How did you collect it ,if you didn't blast it?

 

[Unclecrash]

My bad on the column it is a dewaxer, duajl stage was the vac pump.

 

[live resin]

Thank's for the advise I will pass it on. I hear when you get it correct it will be hard and brittle if dropped will shatter LOL. But they say when heated you can mold it or bend it then it should go back to being brittle.

No, once you heat it enough it will not go back to being brittle. Decarboxylation is not reversible in this case.

 

[deeppurple87]

No, once you heat it enough it will not go back to being brittle. Decarboxylation is not reversible in this case.

I always heat up the shatter to make it malleable and to form patties.

I just don't ever let it get above 115-120 f, or as you say it will become irreversibly sappy due to decarboxylation. I find 90 degrees is a good temp to mold the shatter as it's still hard, but also malleable. Yes it will return to its original shattery hardness as long as it's not kept at high temps

Digital heat pad, ir reader, and heatgun are all a must have imo for both scraping after initial purge, and forming the final patty