farmhouse cat
Member
The bayer tree and shrub is already added so its up to the ganja gods now! If everything goes tits up..I will try again.
Thanks for the help cyat.
heath inspired test prototype (aero)
- Thread starter farmhouse cat
- Start date
The bayer tree and shrub is already added so its up to the ganja gods now! If everything goes tits up..I will try again.
Thanks for the help cyat.
esteboatan
Member
Birdman - I had the same thing happen to me recently. Root aphids were brought in with some clones I had acquired. I used the bayer too. So long as it has Imid in it your good to go. It was a thick white liquid and has been fine in the sprayers. The added ingredient I used along with it was Hygrozyme. To eat the dead roots and repair what it could. The plants didnt seem to miss a beat. I am nearing the last week and its doing fine.
Good luck bro.
Good luck bro.
farmhouse cat
Member
my comment was in general and i did read the thread
i actually liked it so much, i started planning to copy you.
prevention is key with bugs/diseases.
Im flattered you want to copy.
even though i havent been successfull yet. All the elements are there for a good aero system. Ergo (test prototype) Ultimately i want to have 2 full cubes. Each cube will be fed from its own pump (jet pump with solenoid valve hooked to timer)and reservoir outside the room. Each cube will have one reservoir that all raingutters in that cube drain to.
A sump pump with a float valve in that return res pumps the water back to the reservoir outside the grow room.
(just like heaths racks) but aero of course. And of corse a chiller on each reservoir keeping the water at a nice cool 68deg.
Each cube will be 4 weeks apart (8 week strain of course).
That means 4 weeks of veg while cuts are rooting for 4 weeks. When i load up the 4 week veggers into the cube the clones will go into the vegger for 4 weeks and so on and so on.
Which brings me to the reasoning for the next idea.
Modifying my walls down to two rows instead of 3. Bigger plants from 4 week veg. (cutting off the top row) and concentrating the light position to really kick those two rows into overdrive. Heath did that in the end to his vertical racks. I think i know why.
Of course all this is in my head and a long way off...but i will get there.
farmhouse cat
Member
Birdman - I had the same thing happen to me recently. Root aphids were brought in with some clones I had acquired. I used the bayer too. So long as it has Imid in it your good to go. It was a thick white liquid and has been fine in the sprayers. The added ingredient I used along with it was Hygrozyme. To eat the dead roots and repair what it could. The plants didnt seem to miss a beat. I am nearing the last week and its doing fine.
Good luck bro.
Good to hear man. How long did you run it in the reservoirs?
HushemFlupskluk
Member
GL slaying critters. We all know what they can do to all stages of our plants.
Kill it!
Kill it!
esteboatan
Member
I let it run for 8 hours at roughly 4ml per gallon. I then removed that reservoir and used a cleanly prepared one with just ph'd water and hygrozyme. I then changed out that res 12 hours later with a regular nutrient schedule and hygrozyme.
I noticed all critters were dead within 12 hours and the bodies stopped being washed into the reservoir after the third res change.
farmhouse cat
Member
I ran the bayer and it seemed to work ok. I still have some stunted weak growth and yellowing on some of the plants from the attack. I took 15 of the worst effected plants from the root aphids and put them back into the veg room to recover. I also culled 3 of the male Northern lights from the bottom row. (dam!) that nice big one on the bottom right was a male!!! The root mass was huge.
Still makin my way to the promise land. I just need some good luck, and enough healthy 1ft tall veggers to fill the bottom two rows and it will be on like donkey kong! or fill up the whole thing and hang another 1k bulb for the top row. Or cut the walls down to 4 ft which will make the inside diameter ideal (but less plants) and use 600s. Or finsish building the last 5 ft wall for this cube, then build the next cube with the 4ft diameter and run both to find which one does the best.
LOL ...im glad i have my trusty flat gardens to see me through. I promise to get there eventually.
Still makin my way to the promise land. I just need some good luck, and enough healthy 1ft tall veggers to fill the bottom two rows and it will be on like donkey kong! or fill up the whole thing and hang another 1k bulb for the top row. Or cut the walls down to 4 ft which will make the inside diameter ideal (but less plants) and use 600s. Or finsish building the last 5 ft wall for this cube, then build the next cube with the 4ft diameter and run both to find which one does the best.
LOL ...im glad i have my trusty flat gardens to see me through. I promise to get there eventually.
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farmhouse cat
Member
2 weeks in and on the edge of my seat! Just praying things dont go tits up.
I love this build. Looks like the girls are loving it too.
LMAO... you sound just like my indecisive ass... you don't know how many PMs I sent DHF with a bunch of ideas like you just posted... ha ha... I'm going to do this or this or maybe this...
Just go with it and be ready to adapt and make changes along the way. We're gonna get this right eventually!
D
DHF
The angled racks are a time tested , solid producing yield machine once dialed ......guaranteed....
How far yas crawl down the rabbit hole lookin for Wonderland and Nirvana all depends on the individual and their resources.....
Good luck on shit not goin tits up Bro.....Positive mental attitude is everything in our lil hobby........
Gotta be "pro-active" against the X factors like critters and such shit , instead of "re-active" after shit happens and it takes recovery time or total crop loss ta kick that ass in gear to adapt or perish....
Lookin fer good things from yas....DHF.....
......
How far yas crawl down the rabbit hole lookin for Wonderland and Nirvana all depends on the individual and their resources.....
Good luck on shit not goin tits up Bro.....Positive mental attitude is everything in our lil hobby........
Gotta be "pro-active" against the X factors like critters and such shit , instead of "re-active" after shit happens and it takes recovery time or total crop loss ta kick that ass in gear to adapt or perish....
Lookin fer good things from yas....DHF.....
......
farmhouse cat
Member
Thanks for checkin in guys!
Bobble....You know what im saying about always wanting to fix stuff. Ya know when your sittin around puffin a joint, or a bong ,vape etc... you get all these ideas bouncing around in your head? Some of them at the time ya think are genious? others just stupid! But its fun and some really great ideas happen after those bake sessions. and vice versa..lol
DHF, Thanks for checkin in, Im like a sponge when it comes to every one of your posts!
Im super pro active when it comes to the grow room. I check everything at lights on and before lights off. My flat aero systems have been dialed and run like clockwork.
But with this new vertical system, and the problem i had on the first run, (plants started dying off) im trying to stay in front of that curve (ya know the curve that goes down really fast). I check the roots all the time on the vertical wall. For some reason they never look as developed as my flat systems roots?? It baffels me!
All the elements are there (just like my flat aero systems) I have roots being sprayed on the same schedule like my flat systems. The nutrients are the exact same ratios. (as the flat systems) So all things considered, why wouldnt the vert wall perform as well as the flat ones?
I start to run senarios in my mind...like maybe the root zone temperatures in the buckets on the wall are higher? or maybe the sprayers arent hitting all the roots and parts of the root ball are drying up? (unlike the flat system where roots are always laying on the bottom of the chamber staying wet)
Or maybe i need to run a lower nute strength on the wall?? I cant quite put a finger on it!!!
But at the moment so far so good... but if things do go tits up, it wont be from not being pro active, but from some other unknown factor that running vertical aero requires that im just not seeing????
The flat system here has all the same elements (just not built into a vertical wall) They need a trim dont they.
Bobble....You know what im saying about always wanting to fix stuff. Ya know when your sittin around puffin a joint, or a bong ,vape etc... you get all these ideas bouncing around in your head? Some of them at the time ya think are genious? others just stupid! But its fun and some really great ideas happen after those bake sessions. and vice versa..lol
DHF, Thanks for checkin in, Im like a sponge when it comes to every one of your posts!
Im super pro active when it comes to the grow room. I check everything at lights on and before lights off. My flat aero systems have been dialed and run like clockwork.
But with this new vertical system, and the problem i had on the first run, (plants started dying off) im trying to stay in front of that curve (ya know the curve that goes down really fast). I check the roots all the time on the vertical wall. For some reason they never look as developed as my flat systems roots?? It baffels me!
All the elements are there (just like my flat aero systems) I have roots being sprayed on the same schedule like my flat systems. The nutrients are the exact same ratios. (as the flat systems) So all things considered, why wouldnt the vert wall perform as well as the flat ones?
I start to run senarios in my mind...like maybe the root zone temperatures in the buckets on the wall are higher? or maybe the sprayers arent hitting all the roots and parts of the root ball are drying up? (unlike the flat system where roots are always laying on the bottom of the chamber staying wet)
Or maybe i need to run a lower nute strength on the wall?? I cant quite put a finger on it!!!
But at the moment so far so good... but if things do go tits up, it wont be from not being pro active, but from some other unknown factor that running vertical aero requires that im just not seeing????
The flat system here has all the same elements (just not built into a vertical wall) They need a trim dont they.
D
DHF
Bro....it`s soundin like your flat grows are on concrete with heat sink pulled away from exposure to a normal 50-60 degree concrete slab that helps to keep rootzone ambient temps manageable for the rootspray technique , but.....
Know this.....rootzones determine EVERYTHING in a pot plants world , from allowing them to dry out between feeds for expansion and filling the size container you`re using , till after they stop building roots at end of stretch and hopefully enough rootmass has been built to accomodate nutrient transfer to the bitches for max swellage till end of cycle.....but....
I`m thinkin your walls of plants rootzone temps are a lot more elevated than you`re thinkin and rootrot ensued most timely.....getchas some SM-90 and feed @ 5 ml per gal for added increases of a surfactant effect of being a wetting agent encapsulating your roots with feed and rootzone protection IME.........can`t go above 70 degrees without some bad shit happenin down south in root-ville IME over the yrs from rootus - rottus with fast hydro setups..........
Krusty made me get the SM-90 16 yrs ago to prevent rootrot in a fast hydro 24/7 recirculating setup and I never got the shit once ....ever....but I was "pro-active" like youi`re bein.....so.......proof`s in da pudding , but rootzone temps never got above 69 in any room I ever ran with dialed results...so....SM-90 for rootzone insurance ok ?......
When I went 100% coco , I found out the shit`s systemic and encases bug larvae to cease the growth process , so no critters grow and prosper in coco since the shit comes pre-loaded with bug larvae more often than not is ANOTHER good thingy for a perfect feed regimen addition....and the shit makes yer rez smell good.....
It`s the little things that matter guys....Learnin`s in the doin....Can`t NOT know what ta do or undo unless yas have experienced the ups and downs of our lil hobby....
Keepin rootzone temps in check means keepin room temps and air exchange in line my buddy........even if it means droppin room temps lower than normal for rootzone development....you built it .......yas gotta control it.....environmentally that is....and nuff outta my old ass fer today.....
Good luck Bro....DHF..........
Know this.....rootzones determine EVERYTHING in a pot plants world , from allowing them to dry out between feeds for expansion and filling the size container you`re using , till after they stop building roots at end of stretch and hopefully enough rootmass has been built to accomodate nutrient transfer to the bitches for max swellage till end of cycle.....but....
I`m thinkin your walls of plants rootzone temps are a lot more elevated than you`re thinkin and rootrot ensued most timely.....getchas some SM-90 and feed @ 5 ml per gal for added increases of a surfactant effect of being a wetting agent encapsulating your roots with feed and rootzone protection IME.........can`t go above 70 degrees without some bad shit happenin down south in root-ville IME over the yrs from rootus - rottus with fast hydro setups..........
Krusty made me get the SM-90 16 yrs ago to prevent rootrot in a fast hydro 24/7 recirculating setup and I never got the shit once ....ever....but I was "pro-active" like youi`re bein.....so.......proof`s in da pudding , but rootzone temps never got above 69 in any room I ever ran with dialed results...so....SM-90 for rootzone insurance ok ?......
When I went 100% coco , I found out the shit`s systemic and encases bug larvae to cease the growth process , so no critters grow and prosper in coco since the shit comes pre-loaded with bug larvae more often than not is ANOTHER good thingy for a perfect feed regimen addition....and the shit makes yer rez smell good.....
It`s the little things that matter guys....Learnin`s in the doin....Can`t NOT know what ta do or undo unless yas have experienced the ups and downs of our lil hobby....
Keepin rootzone temps in check means keepin room temps and air exchange in line my buddy........even if it means droppin room temps lower than normal for rootzone development....you built it .......yas gotta control it.....environmentally that is....and nuff outta my old ass fer today.....
Good luck Bro....DHF....
......
farmhouse cat
Member
Thanks Fred,,,
My room temps have been spot on for these first two weeks in flower. I ditched the co2 and added an active intake and have my exhaust fan hooked to the controller set at 78deg. Outside temps have been mild so my room has been running at 78-80 lights on and lights off around 76.
I know that is going to change quick as soon as the summer weather starts creepin up. I also took bobbles advice of running the humidity at 70 till end of stretch. WOW how easy it is to keep temps in check without the heat of the dehumi!! But i know that will also change when i need to lower that humi down in a week or so.
I have my AC unit on standby for now but its getting close to end of stretch and then the environmental paramaters will all be changed.
Sm 90 sounds like a winner! but let me tell you what ive been using just so you know.
I use botanicare pro bloom, liguid karma, cal mag, aquashield, silica blast and drip clean. Im a firm believer of half strength for almost everything. I also add some great white for benes. But im always hesitant about it.
Is there an additive in my mix that i should leave out if i start to use the sm 90?
Thnaks again
My room temps have been spot on for these first two weeks in flower. I ditched the co2 and added an active intake and have my exhaust fan hooked to the controller set at 78deg. Outside temps have been mild so my room has been running at 78-80 lights on and lights off around 76.
I know that is going to change quick as soon as the summer weather starts creepin up. I also took bobbles advice of running the humidity at 70 till end of stretch. WOW how easy it is to keep temps in check without the heat of the dehumi!! But i know that will also change when i need to lower that humi down in a week or so.
I have my AC unit on standby for now but its getting close to end of stretch and then the environmental paramaters will all be changed.
Sm 90 sounds like a winner! but let me tell you what ive been using just so you know.
I use botanicare pro bloom, liguid karma, cal mag, aquashield, silica blast and drip clean. Im a firm believer of half strength for almost everything. I also add some great white for benes. But im always hesitant about it.
Is there an additive in my mix that i should leave out if i start to use the sm 90?
Thnaks again
D
DHF
SM-90`s coriander oil in suspension and has no adverse effects on any other element used in a solid feed regimen......to my knowledge from 16 yrs useage.....
Less is more Bro , but...I think you missed what I was screamin bout your containers up the walls havin higher rootzone temps from no medium......
If room temps are 78 , then so are your roots.....gotta fix that shit with the quickness or suffer the consequences of potential crop failure from anything above 70 degrees....
Anything I can do ta help just holler in pm....not postin much these days......and when all else fails.......hit Bobble up......He`s a wealth of absorbed first hand knowledge and will never steer yas wrong.....
Peace...DHF.........
Less is more Bro , but...I think you missed what I was screamin bout your containers up the walls havin higher rootzone temps from no medium......
If room temps are 78 , then so are your roots.....gotta fix that shit with the quickness or suffer the consequences of potential crop failure from anything above 70 degrees....
Anything I can do ta help just holler in pm....not postin much these days......and when all else fails.......hit Bobble up......He`s a wealth of absorbed first hand knowledge and will never steer yas wrong.....
Peace...DHF....
.....
farmhouse cat
Member
I hear ya Fred.. I knew from the begining that this was gonna be a trial and error project. Nothing good comes without a price. Im just glad i have someone like you to help me along.
I was doing some research on rootzone temps in aeroponics and it seems like my best bet would be to run a chiller. Heres an interesting article http://www.maximumyield.com/article_sh_db.php?articleID=582
After my first run failed, a chiller immeaditly came to mind. I think chilled water and lower room temps if i can manage them will get things dialed in.
This venture is all on the line make or break. Im in escrow on a house right now (finally) short sales are a pain! The vertical experiment is designed around a room in the new house. Its a small room (14 ft long 7 ft wide and 8ft high) but big enough for 2 full squares. Each cube will have its own res
all connected to one reservoir ouitside the room..and chilled.
The raingutters like Heath will drain to one res with a float valve and pumped back to the main res. I have it all designed in my head. I even have the low flow high pressure pump already.
But i dont wanna count my chickens yet!
Thanks for help bro.
FC
I was doing some research on rootzone temps in aeroponics and it seems like my best bet would be to run a chiller. Heres an interesting article http://www.maximumyield.com/article_sh_db.php?articleID=582
After my first run failed, a chiller immeaditly came to mind. I think chilled water and lower room temps if i can manage them will get things dialed in.
This venture is all on the line make or break. Im in escrow on a house right now (finally) short sales are a pain! The vertical experiment is designed around a room in the new house. Its a small room (14 ft long 7 ft wide and 8ft high) but big enough for 2 full squares. Each cube will have its own res
all connected to one reservoir ouitside the room..and chilled.
The raingutters like Heath will drain to one res with a float valve and pumped back to the main res. I have it all designed in my head. I even have the low flow high pressure pump already.
But i dont wanna count my chickens yet!
Thanks for help bro.
FC
esteboatan
Member
Wouldnt the shade from the plants keep the rootzone in an acceptable level?
Reason I ask, in my particular set up, its an aero stadium as you know D, the temps in the room are steady at 83F during the summer. Its a basic fence post design and I havent had problems with high temps around the rootzone.
Reason I ask, in my particular set up, its an aero stadium as you know D, the temps in the room are steady at 83F during the summer. Its a basic fence post design and I havent had problems with high temps around the rootzone.
