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heath inspired test prototype (aero)

Ghudda

Member
Cat, do you think your setup or Bobblehead's latest setup will yield greater over time? I need to know who to copy the most ;)
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
So if my main panel is 100 amp 220 volt, does that mean i wont be able to run 240 volt ballasts on the sub panel?

Sorry if i sound stupid but im not an electrician and when it comes to electricity i want to make sure i get it right. I will hire an electrician to do the work , but i need to know what to tell him what i want.

I need to power my 240v light controller,(with up to 4 240 or 120 receptacles) an 18000btu AC , pumps, dehumi, fans, etc. I would need a 240v dryer plug dedicated for the Light controller, a 15amp 230 for the AC, and probably 10 120 volt plugs.

Sorry homie, you just stepped outside of my experience. I don't wanna give you any answers that might burn your house down.

Those are some fine looking plants, BTW!
 

gardenbug

Member
If you are not going to use anything else in the house and only use power from that 100 amp sub panel then you could leave the 100 amp main. If it's a 100 amp main it's probably old and could use updated anyways. Upgrading the main to a 200 would be a good idea, this requires an electrician and sometimes the power company to disconnect the main. If you can find a friendly electrician tell them what you need and let them make the plan. It's complicated enough that it might be worth a new thread in the design forum so the electrical guys that hang out there will see it.
 

~Shhh~

JETS
Veteran
Nice bro, glad things worked out after the first couple of issue you had.

They do look like chubbies huh... the hard part is gonna be to get 60 chubbies all with the same erection.

Try Viagra! Lol, sorry couldn't resist :D:D looking forward to seeing the full 60 run in there any ideas on which strain/s you will be running. How tall you will want them before flip etc
 
That is a good looking run any day... killer for a first run in a new system. Nice work.



Root shots?


Thanks man. I will see if i can get some root shots up soon.


Cat, do you think your setup or Bobblehead's latest setup will yield greater over time? I need to know who to copy the most





I couldnt say, there 2 very different systems. But im flattered to be used in the same sentence as bobble


Thats a fantastic rig you built there man. (after a glance) thats wicked!





Thanks scroger!!


Sorry homie, you just stepped outside of my experience. I don't wanna give you any answers that might burn your house down.



Those are some fine looking plants, BTW!





Thanks Anti, I think i have the power sorted out now, just need to have the pro do it.


If you are not going to use anything else in the house and only use power from that 100 amp sub panel then you could leave the 100 amp main. If it's a 100 amp main it's probably old and could use updated anyways. Upgrading the main to a 200 would be a good idea, this requires an electrician and sometimes the power company to disconnect the main. If you can find a friendly electrician tell them what you need and let them make the plan. It's complicated enough that it might be worth a new thread in the design forum so the electrical guys that hang out there will see it.





Thanks for the help gardenbug, i will be doing the main breaker upgrade and running a 100amp sub panel to the grow, with a dedicated 208v 125 amp for the mini split.




AMAZING ! And thats with 1 1000w bulb right ?

Man i cant wait to see those dry numbers :p



Yep one 1k bulb. I dont expect any big numbers yet. There is 6 different strains in there, and they were all different sizes going in.



My only objective was to see if my design would get healthy plants from start to finish. Yields will come later with proper veg times and environmental control.



Needless to say im pretty happy with the results so far.


Nice bro, glad things worked out after the first couple of issue you had.







Try Viagra! Lol, sorry couldn't resist looking forward to seeing the full 60 run in there any ideas on which strain/s you will be running. How tall you will want them before flip etc



Thanks shhh!



Viagra..lol So far i like how the green crack, and the c99 are lookin. especially since they both finish in about 8 weeks. The g13 is lookin thick but dam! it still needs a couple more weeks making it a 10-11 weeker. same with the NL. Im gonna need 8 weekers for my system to run with cloning and veg times to work best.


Big HELL YEAH, nice work.





Thanks a bunch HGO!
 
Alright, farmhouse, we know you know what DHF says about keeping temps as steady as possible morning, evening, and maybe even at noon.

So:

Stop sweating the smallness of the lung room.

Do not isolate one room from the other, but design it to exchange both rooms twice per minute, like you were doing an nice non-supplemented open room, llight and dark.

So now your total air volume is more than doubled. (Room+Room+lung).

Set your CO2 for something that won't shut the girls in dark down, like 800 ppm. Your 2x minute air exchanges at 800ppm and no girl is hurting for CO2.

Set your humidity (50%) and AC (86) and keep the air moving.

You should be able to keep both room's environment almost totally stable, night and dark, as the AC will be keeping all the air down to 86... And it should be good year round.

Major air exchange is a good thing? right? even in a sealed room using a lung room supplemented with co2 and AC? 2xs a minute cycling to and from the lung room.
It will kick ass to have that air moving all the time???


Whereas a sealed room without a lung will just have oscilating fans moving air around. OK but not as good?

My first idea was to run each chamber on a different light schedule 12/12. ex: (room A 7am-7pm lights on.) (room B 7pm-7am lights on.) Reason being: it will be easier on the AC to cool the rooms and run more efficiently if one room is in the dark period, acting as part of the lung.

But then we have the dreaded c02. Which is absolutely mandatory in a sealed type operation. So this begs the question:

We all know c02 isnt used by the plant during the night. But at what level of c02 does it harm plants in the night cycle? or will it even harm them? Ive researched this and cant find any real data if it harms plants at night.

But from the quote above from Imaginaryfriend he states that 800 is ok for plants in the dark cycle. But i need to be absolutely sure before i start the build.

Or maybe i should just run the lights on the same schedule (both rooms) upgrade to a slightly bigger mini split and c02 wont be a problem? but then the small lung room will become a problem! uhh..

Im thinking out loud here trying to reason why im doing things a certain way..lol

Any thoughts would be helpfull.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
lol... let me help you out brother.

The point of a lung room, is to remove equipment from the grow room, so that heat isn't an issue... and you can fit more plants in the room.

If you're running a sealed room, there is no need to exchange the air, just keep the CO2 ppms constant and the temperature under control... The excess heat can be blown out into the lung room and be exhausted somewhere... Or I guess you would use an a/c, and the heat from the a/c would get put into the lung room to be exhausted.

I say fuck CO2. Major air exchange FTW. You're looking for problems with higher temps and straight hydro. Did you get a chiller for your feed? That would be the only way I would proceed with such a project.

Plants take in CO2 during lights on, and let it out during lights off. I wouldn't worry about how much is in the air... They'll just ignore it.
 

Hydrosun

I love my life
Veteran
CO2 will not harm the plant. There is a cool story about a huge CO2 bubble that escaped from the earth, popped out of a lake, killed EVERYONE with the area, scientists came back and the plants around the area were HUGE.

You can crank CO2 to 10,000 PPM and it will kill bugs and mites, but your babies will be just fine. 10K PPM will also kill you, so make sure you respect the gas.

:joint:
 

Abja Roots

ABF(Always Be Flowering) - Founder
Veteran
First. This looks great.

Second if you're getting a new place setup. I would ask the power company for a 200 amp drop the residence, to replace the 100 amps. Then you could dedicate 100 amps to the grow and 100 amps to the house. Which is something your electrician could do for you. If the existing power structure(on the street) allows it, it shouldn't be an issue. This will give you the option to expand however you like in the future.

Lots of houses were built before all these appliances, computers, hot tubs etc....So they were not wired for as much power as we use today.

Thanks for sharing the grow. I'm going to go back through and read this thread for sure.

I agree with the air exchange ftw. I move massive amounts of air, but I also run a coco based system, so it's not as susceptible to temps. I will be setting up a sealed AC room for veg and clones, as these have to be on during the day(when it gets hot around here). For flower though, I don't think I'd expend the energy or time on sealing my room. I like the option of aircooling my hoods in the summer and running bare bulb in the winter. I love bare bulb.
 
lol... let me help you out brother.

The point of a lung room, is to remove equipment from the grow room, so that heat isn't an issue... and you can fit more plants in the room.

If you're running a sealed room, there is no need to exchange the air, just keep the CO2 ppms constant and the temperature under control... The excess heat can be blown out into the lung room and be exhausted somewhere... Or I guess you would use an a/c, and the heat from the a/c would get put into the lung room to be exhausted.

I say fuck CO2. Major air exchange FTW. You're looking for problems with higher temps and straight hydro. Did you get a chiller for your feed? That would be the only way I would proceed with such a project.

Plants take in CO2 during lights on, and let it out during lights off. I wouldn't worry about how much is in the air... They'll just ignore it.

Thanks for the help Bobble. In my area i could only run an open room with major air exchange 6 months a year (winter) and stay within parameters. Ive tried it and when the warmer months come the room temps jump up quick. even running lights at night. Not to mention daytime lights off temps still rise too much. Ac is a must. ergo c02 is a must.

Believe me if i could not use AC and co2 i would be a happy guy!


Thus bringing me to what i figure would really crank as far as environment. "A sealed room exchanging air 2xs a minute with the lung" and the co2 enriched cool air that a lung will provide.

I can picture my vertical racks being replenished with co2 enriched conditioned air circulated from low passive intakes through the lower wall of the center lung into the chamber moving up through the leaves (where c02 is best absorbed) and up through the carbon filter back to the lung just to be reconditioned and recirculated again.


To me its sounds like a dream..:jump:

Yes chillers will be used most definaetly.
 
CO2 will not harm the plant. There is a cool story about a huge CO2 bubble that escaped from the earth, popped out of a lake, killed EVERYONE with the area, scientists came back and the plants around the area were HUGE.

You can crank CO2 to 10,000 PPM and it will kill bugs and mites, but your babies will be just fine. 10K PPM will also kill you, so make sure you respect the gas.

:joint:

Cool story man! I just needed to know if plants during the night cycle being in a constant 800-1200ppm would have any ill effect.
 
First. This looks great.

Second if you're getting a new place setup. I would ask the power company for a 200 amp drop the residence, to replace the 100 amps. Then you could dedicate 100 amps to the grow and 100 amps to the house. Which is something your electrician could do for you. If the existing power structure(on the street) allows it, it shouldn't be an issue. This will give you the option to expand however you like in the future.

Lots of houses were built before all these appliances, computers, hot tubs etc....So they were not wired for as much power as we use today.

Thanks for sharing the grow. I'm going to go back through and read this thread for sure.

I agree with the air exchange ftw. I move massive amounts of air, but I also run a coco based system, so it's not as susceptible to temps. I will be setting up a sealed AC room for veg and clones, as these have to be on during the day(when it gets hot around here). For flower though, I don't think I'd expend the energy or time on sealing my room. I like the option of aircooling my hoods in the summer and running bare bulb in the winter. I love bare bulb.

Thanks AR, Ive been reading about what needs to be done and you are spot on. I will need to upgrade my main panel for sure, especially for when i build the new pool! So much to do, i just wanna go to costa rica and surf and forget about it! lol
 

Hydrosun

I love my life
Veteran
Cool story man! I just needed to know if plants during the night cycle being in a constant 800-1200ppm would have any ill effect.

They off gas CO2 at night and do better in high CO2 environments. I bet if you kept it 1600PPM 20 hrs a day (first 10 for room A, last 10 for room B, 4 hour break in the middle to allow you to work), you would kill it!

:joint:
 

ImaginaryFriend

Fuck Entropy.
Veteran
I thought I had read somewhere that high concentration of CO2 before lights on -- photosythetic period -- could keep stomata closed... thereby shutting down respiration.

I went to some of my references, and couldn't find evidence of this.

So maybe my memory is full of shit.

Anyway... I don't think the number really matters too much, provided:

1. You are supplementing,
2. You have excellence air exchange and air moment within the canopy so that there are no pockets of air that have been exhausted of the CO2.

Oversimplifying the idea: A certain quantity of carbon is used in generating a sugar molecule/plant cell/whatever. A certain quantity of photons are used in the reaction. A certain quantity of mineral components are used in this process.

As long as there is always a CO2 molecule outside the stomata, it's business as usual. All you need to do is make sure there's CO2 available outside the cell. Rapidly moving a non-depleted 350 PPM over all the leaf surface is better than a super saturated room with stagnant air pockets.

1. Change your room out 2xminute. (This is a component of gentle but massive air movement).

2. Supplement (so there's always some CO2 available).

3. Get the fuck out of the way.
 
That is a good looking run any day... killer for a first run in a new system. Nice work.

Root shots?

Started yanking a few of the plants.

Heres a root shot my imaginary friend.

bhgad002.jpg


bhgad003.jpg
 
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