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Growroom Electricity and Wiring
- Thread starter Phillthy
- Start date
Yeah, that too! LOL. I kind of got lost in the weeds there on the subtleties and wandered away from the main question. It was early...
Edited after a little more research.
Trying to put in a dedicated 220v circuit to run 6 Gavita 1ks, will be using the Gavita controller to turn the lamps on and off, so basically just need a safe clean wired circuit that I can plug 6 Gavitas into.
So far, I think I will use 3x, 20 amp duplex 220v outlets. With a 60 amp breaker for the circuit. Just trying to figure out what is the safest cleanest way to wire it all together. Open to suggestions, at the moment I am thinking either a junction box where I can pigtail the 3 outlets off the main wire (seems like a lot of pig tailing of thick wire), or find some sort of lug center where I can use 3x 20 amp breakers. The second sounds safer, just have to find one the right one.
After thinking it over a bit more, the Lug center seems a lot cleaner/safer. I think the pig tailing would be sloppy. Just need to find the right lug center. Also if it is safe to install a lug center in the ceiling. The outlets will be in the ceiling, the lug center would not "have" to be in the ceiling, but it might make things a bit simpler for me. Also need to decide between using an indoor lug center hard wired, or using an outdoor lug center with a plug, and metal conduit connecting the outlets (like the older timer boards minus the timer and relays).
Any input is appreciated.
Mr^^
Trying to put in a dedicated 220v circuit to run 6 Gavita 1ks, will be using the Gavita controller to turn the lamps on and off, so basically just need a safe clean wired circuit that I can plug 6 Gavitas into.
So far, I think I will use 3x, 20 amp duplex 220v outlets. With a 60 amp breaker for the circuit. Just trying to figure out what is the safest cleanest way to wire it all together. Open to suggestions, at the moment I am thinking either a junction box where I can pigtail the 3 outlets off the main wire (seems like a lot of pig tailing of thick wire), or find some sort of lug center where I can use 3x 20 amp breakers. The second sounds safer, just have to find one the right one.
After thinking it over a bit more, the Lug center seems a lot cleaner/safer. I think the pig tailing would be sloppy. Just need to find the right lug center. Also if it is safe to install a lug center in the ceiling. The outlets will be in the ceiling, the lug center would not "have" to be in the ceiling, but it might make things a bit simpler for me. Also need to decide between using an indoor lug center hard wired, or using an outdoor lug center with a plug, and metal conduit connecting the outlets (like the older timer boards minus the timer and relays).
Any input is appreciated.
Mr^^
Last edited:
The 60a breaker is absolutely not the way to go. The breaker HAS to match the lowest-rated component in the system in order to provide protection. If you are using 20a receptacles, then you need to use 20a components throughout and 20a breakers.
Regarding the ceiling mount, I don't recall ever seeing a code exclusion for horizontal mounting, but wouldn't be surprised if one exists. As I recall, they ARE supposed to be mounted at "working height". Just as an aside, I prefer a main breaker in any sub. You can buy a main lug only panel and get a main breaker kit for them. It is just far more convenient to be able to kill all the power rather than having to trudge back to the main panel.
The choice between the indoor and outdoor styles would be dictated by the specific installation and personal preference. Conduit affords you the ability to easily change the circuitry later if you need to.
Appreciate the response Rives, helps a lot to get some good information and bounce around ideas.
The main breaker kit would be a nice addition, thanks. Guess if I got a lug center with the space for 8 breakers, I could use 2 slots on a main breaker, 3x 2 slot 20 amp breakers, for each duplex.
Really the outlets in the ceiling was just cosmetic, I could surely just tie the cords up neatly along the ceiling and down a wall to the outlets.
I am leaning towards the outdoor style. Nice to be able to just unplug it and remove it from the wall, leaving behind only a single outlet. Hard to say how long I will use the room, and if I tear it down I don't really need all the extra outlets and wiring in the wall.
So this is what I am thinking now. Please let me know if something sounds poorly designed.
Garage has a sub-panel already. I will add a single 50 amp dual pole breaker into the subpanel, run 6-3 mmb to a single 50 amp outlet, not a very long run maybe 15'.
Wire a 50 amp range cord into a outdoor lug center. 1x 50 amp main breaker. 3x 20 amp breakers. Using conduit and 10 awg thhn, add 3x duplex 20a outlets/w boxs.
Then I can just plug and play the lug center as needed... hopefully
Thanks,
Mr^^
The main breaker kit would be a nice addition, thanks. Guess if I got a lug center with the space for 8 breakers, I could use 2 slots on a main breaker, 3x 2 slot 20 amp breakers, for each duplex.
Really the outlets in the ceiling was just cosmetic, I could surely just tie the cords up neatly along the ceiling and down a wall to the outlets.
I am leaning towards the outdoor style. Nice to be able to just unplug it and remove it from the wall, leaving behind only a single outlet. Hard to say how long I will use the room, and if I tear it down I don't really need all the extra outlets and wiring in the wall.
So this is what I am thinking now. Please let me know if something sounds poorly designed.
Garage has a sub-panel already. I will add a single 50 amp dual pole breaker into the subpanel, run 6-3 mmb to a single 50 amp outlet, not a very long run maybe 15'.
Wire a 50 amp range cord into a outdoor lug center. 1x 50 amp main breaker. 3x 20 amp breakers. Using conduit and 10 awg thhn, add 3x duplex 20a outlets/w boxs.
Then I can just plug and play the lug center as needed... hopefully
Thanks,
Mr^^
Appreciate the response Rives, helps a lot to get some good information and bounce around ideas.
The main breaker kit would be a nice addition, thanks. Guess if I got a lug center with the space for 8 breakers, I could use 2 slots on a main breaker, 3x 2 slot 20 amp breakers, for each duplex.
Really the outlets in the ceiling was just cosmetic, I could surely just tie the cords up neatly along the ceiling and down a wall to the outlets.
I am leaning towards the outdoor style. Nice to be able to just unplug it and remove it from the wall, leaving behind only a single outlet. Hard to say how long I will use the room, and if I tear it down I don't really need all the extra outlets and wiring in the wall.
So this is what I am thinking now. Please let me know if something sounds poorly designed.
Garage has a sub-panel already. I will add a single 50 amp dual pole breaker into the subpanel, run 6-3 mmb to a single 50 amp outlet, not a very long run maybe 15'.
Wire a 50 amp range cord into a outdoor lug center. 1x 50 amp main breaker. 3x 20 amp breakers. Using conduit and 10 awg thhn, add 3x duplex 20a outlets/w boxs.
Then I can just plug and play the lug center as needed... hopefully
Thanks,
Mr^^
That would work fine. If the 20a receptacle runs are going to be of reasonable length, #12 wire will be fine.
Most likely will be very short runs, under 1'. I had an old timer box that used the rigid conduit they were only a few inches long, and held the lug center and the outlet boxs together. I have noticed the same little pieces at Home Depot, so most likely will use those.
Any harm to using 10 awg, over the 12 awg? I figured it was going to be cheap enough anyways, so a little over gauged wire couldn't hurt?
Thanks again,
Mr^^
Any harm to using 10 awg, over the 12 awg? I figured it was going to be cheap enough anyways, so a little over gauged wire couldn't hurt?
Thanks again,
Mr^^
It won't hurt a thing, but isn't really necessary. #12 THHN is actually rated for 30a, but is de-rated by code to 20a. The limiting factor on current-carrying capacity is when the insulation starts to degrade because of the operating temperature, and THHN is rated for 194 degrees. The only issue might be that the wire is a little large for the termination points on the receptacles, but should still be pretty easy to use.
Regarding the receptacles, be sure to use the commercial or specification-grade ones that have screw-plate connections and not the junk ones that you stab the wire into the holes.
Regarding the receptacles, be sure to use the commercial or specification-grade ones that have screw-plate connections and not the junk ones that you stab the wire into the holes.
Agreed, thanks Rives.
I did notice there was a commercial and industrial graded outlets. Will try to get the best ones with the screws. Also think the 12 awg sounds better, need all the connections really secure or I won't sleep at night, trying to get an oversized wire to fit snugly doesn't sound ideal.
Thanks,
Mr^^
I did notice there was a commercial and industrial graded outlets. Will try to get the best ones with the screws. Also think the 12 awg sounds better, need all the connections really secure or I won't sleep at night, trying to get an oversized wire to fit snugly doesn't sound ideal.
Thanks,
Mr^^
Thank you. I enjoy helping out!
Holler back if you have any more questions.
I AGREE WITH THIS POST
Gardens Keeper
Member
Dumb question I am sure. I have 30 amp line for my light switches/timers. I never use all the power. Several thousand watts off. I need to upgrade my box for more 120v plugins in one of my spots because when the electrician installed the 30 amp line it took it away from many receptacles. I did not realize this until I went to set things up last week.
I can get around that by buying this box:
https://www.powerboxinc.com/dpc15000.html
So the dumb question: It can handle 50 amp load but I will never use close to that in any of my spots. Does it have to be plugged into a 50 amp line to function properly? Could I use my existing 30 amp and just not ever go above the 30 amps? The receptacle is all that matters I believe?
I am terrible with electricity sorry if this is as a dumb of a question as I feel it may be.
I can get around that by buying this box:
https://www.powerboxinc.com/dpc15000.html
So the dumb question: It can handle 50 amp load but I will never use close to that in any of my spots. Does it have to be plugged into a 50 amp line to function properly? Could I use my existing 30 amp and just not ever go above the 30 amps? The receptacle is all that matters I believe?
I am terrible with electricity sorry if this is as a dumb of a question as I feel it may be.
Gardens Keeper
Member
Hmm well this presents a problem I am going to have to solve my self. I can hardwire to a 50 amp that is on the box down there as well but I would have to run extension cords from every piece of equipment to it...The box if I remember right has 2 20 lines, 30, and a 50. The 30 was relocated to the grow chamber. I am in a basement and we built a wall in the center of it my grow is on one side storage and electrical box on the other....
Anyone know any companies that sell premade boxes like the power boxes that have at least 4 120v plug ins as well as 240's. Some of my equipment and lights are 120 some of it is 240. These boxes solved that problem but they dont have a 30 that is sufficient.
I could always just cut a hole for all the extension cords running to a hardwired box on the other side of wall (about 20 foot run), but would really like to take advantage of the line I paid for to be run inside the grow room....
Any ideas? Have to solve this issue in next few weeks really don't want an electrician back over here as I have set some things up...
EDIT:
Confused trying to put together equipment. I have a 60 amp line down in basement I may be able to reroute my self.
1. Will it not work/be unsafe with this 50 amp controller below? If not could I just remove the 60 amp breaker and put a 50 in its place and rerun the wiring or hardwire directly to it and run extension cords from equipment to it?
Looking at this one:
https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/APT0082
FUEL ST8 Light Controller, 8 Outlet, 240V, with Single Trigger
The FUEL ST8 represents the latest in professional lighting control. It is among the best devices for controlling up to 8 lights. This unit features 240V industrial-grade NEMA 6-15 UL-listed power outlets. All outlets are controlled by a 120V trigger cable. The 8 light controller has 2 banks of 4 lights. Each bank has a 30-second time delay and is protected by an industrial-grade circuit breaker.
The FUEL ST8 requires a 50A main power supply and has a maximum ballast load of 40A. Each power outlet receptacle is rated 240V, 5A maximum. Keep your grow lights in complete control with Autopilot's professional line of FUEL light controllers.
8 Outlet/240V/60Hz
50A main power supply
Maximum ballast load 40A
Each receptacle rated 240VAC 5A MAX
NEMA 6-15 UL-listed power outlets
ETL-listed
Commercial grade
2-year warranty
This power box has a 50 and a 60 amp version I could use just as well.
https://www.powerboxinc.com/dpc15000.html
Anyone know any companies that sell premade boxes like the power boxes that have at least 4 120v plug ins as well as 240's. Some of my equipment and lights are 120 some of it is 240. These boxes solved that problem but they dont have a 30 that is sufficient.
I could always just cut a hole for all the extension cords running to a hardwired box on the other side of wall (about 20 foot run), but would really like to take advantage of the line I paid for to be run inside the grow room....
Any ideas? Have to solve this issue in next few weeks really don't want an electrician back over here as I have set some things up...
EDIT:
Confused trying to put together equipment. I have a 60 amp line down in basement I may be able to reroute my self.
1. Will it not work/be unsafe with this 50 amp controller below? If not could I just remove the 60 amp breaker and put a 50 in its place and rerun the wiring or hardwire directly to it and run extension cords from equipment to it?
Looking at this one:
https://www.hydrofarm.com/p/APT0082
FUEL ST8 Light Controller, 8 Outlet, 240V, with Single Trigger
The FUEL ST8 represents the latest in professional lighting control. It is among the best devices for controlling up to 8 lights. This unit features 240V industrial-grade NEMA 6-15 UL-listed power outlets. All outlets are controlled by a 120V trigger cable. The 8 light controller has 2 banks of 4 lights. Each bank has a 30-second time delay and is protected by an industrial-grade circuit breaker.
The FUEL ST8 requires a 50A main power supply and has a maximum ballast load of 40A. Each power outlet receptacle is rated 240V, 5A maximum. Keep your grow lights in complete control with Autopilot's professional line of FUEL light controllers.
8 Outlet/240V/60Hz
50A main power supply
Maximum ballast load 40A
Each receptacle rated 240VAC 5A MAX
NEMA 6-15 UL-listed power outlets
ETL-listed
Commercial grade
2-year warranty
This power box has a 50 and a 60 amp version I could use just as well.
https://www.powerboxinc.com/dpc15000.html
Last edited:
You would be far better off building up something yourself. Virtually all of the commercially-available controllers like these rely on a portion of the code that CANNOT be complied with in a grow op. The only protection is the main breaker, at 40 or 50 amps, and it is feeding receptacles that are rated at 15a, which they then tell you not to use at over 5a. That's all fine when things are running well, but if something shorts out, it will pull everything that the breaker can supply. The code exception is for warehouse lighting with the lights suspended not more than 18" immediately below the receptacle, and all of the lighting gear has to be listed (tested and approved) for that purpose. ALL of the stipulations have to be met in order for it to be legal. It's dangerous in your application and will void your insurance.
The easiest way to do this is to use a range cord feeding a water heater timer, and then feed a small sub-panel which will in turn feed your receptacles. The timer will handle 30a, and the sub-panel will provide the protection that the 15a receptacles and cordsets REQUIRE. You can use a 240v timer, giving you a total of 7,200 watts, and break the circuits into whatever combination of 120v or 240v that you need with the sub. Keep the load balanced between the two legs of 120v that make up the 240v feed. Remember to stay at 80% or less of the breaker rating for loads that are on for over 3 hours.
The easiest way to do this is to use a range cord feeding a water heater timer, and then feed a small sub-panel which will in turn feed your receptacles. The timer will handle 30a, and the sub-panel will provide the protection that the 15a receptacles and cordsets REQUIRE. You can use a 240v timer, giving you a total of 7,200 watts, and break the circuits into whatever combination of 120v or 240v that you need with the sub. Keep the load balanced between the two legs of 120v that make up the 240v feed. Remember to stay at 80% or less of the breaker rating for loads that are on for over 3 hours.
Gardens Keeper
Member
Building one is just beyond me I need a simple fix for now. I am not in a warehouse or anything and I have 7 lights 3 gavita 600 watts which run on 240 and 4 led's that are 560 watts a piece that run on 120. I have a Quest dehumidifier 70 pint 120v and a c02 system + fans.
I have to have a pre built box of some kind and I am going to have to run the wire my self. The panel may be a sub panel I am not sure as there are 3 in the home. One in the basement which ran a dedicated welder the 60 amp and then 30 amp and 2 20's.
I need to use those lines and use a premade box and I have 3 weeks to get it done. Every premade box I look at seems to run on 50 amp-60 amp+. All are 500$+ and then probably a timer depending on which brand I go with.
I could also run a 50-60 amp line directly from the main panel which we just had completely replaced and upgraded as it sits on the other side of the wall of the basement. The guy had already run a 30 amp line from it to run the split system I had installed so I am assuming I wouldnt even have to drill through the wall and could run the line through it and just drill in beams above like he did to get it to where he put it.
I am going to try to trace which wires are which down there tomorrow. I have no idea where the 60 amp goes in the room.
If I could just add 4 120v outlets then I could use my old powerbox to run the gavita 240's the rest of the shit can run on those but I have no clue how to do that shit.
Have to go to sleep but will be trying to figure out what I should do exactly for next few days.
Really appreciate the input from everyone.
I have to have a pre built box of some kind and I am going to have to run the wire my self. The panel may be a sub panel I am not sure as there are 3 in the home. One in the basement which ran a dedicated welder the 60 amp and then 30 amp and 2 20's.
I need to use those lines and use a premade box and I have 3 weeks to get it done. Every premade box I look at seems to run on 50 amp-60 amp+. All are 500$+ and then probably a timer depending on which brand I go with.
I could also run a 50-60 amp line directly from the main panel which we just had completely replaced and upgraded as it sits on the other side of the wall of the basement. The guy had already run a 30 amp line from it to run the split system I had installed so I am assuming I wouldnt even have to drill through the wall and could run the line through it and just drill in beams above like he did to get it to where he put it.
I am going to try to trace which wires are which down there tomorrow. I have no idea where the 60 amp goes in the room.
If I could just add 4 120v outlets then I could use my old powerbox to run the gavita 240's the rest of the shit can run on those but I have no clue how to do that shit.
Have to go to sleep but will be trying to figure out what I should do exactly for next few days.
Really appreciate the input from everyone.
If you can handle running wire and doing the rest of the work that you are talking about, it's not much of a stretch to do what I suggested. If I recall correctly, there are a couple of build-ups in this thread of the steps to take.
Good luck.
Good luck.
.........
Running a little low on poles within this sub panel. Wanted to double check, get a little consensus if this wiring sounds right. The goal is to plug in 4x 220v 1kw lights.
30 amp dual pole breaker. Romex 10-2 from breaker into a junction box , 2 runs of Romex 12-2 pig tailed to the 10-2 in the junction box. Each lead of 12-2 will lead to a 20a duplex 220v outlet.
Could do the pig tailing within a double gang box, but I feel like using a junction box would be cleaner, less crammed, easier access to the connection.
Anyone notice anything wrong with this set up?
Thanks,
Mr^^
30 amp dual pole breaker. Romex 10-2 from breaker into a junction box , 2 runs of Romex 12-2 pig tailed to the 10-2 in the junction box. Each lead of 12-2 will lead to a 20a duplex 220v outlet.
Could do the pig tailing within a double gang box, but I feel like using a junction box would be cleaner, less crammed, easier access to the connection.
Anyone notice anything wrong with this set up?
Thanks,
Mr^^
